Hi all, I am working on my sons 2010 Passat Wagon 2.0T (CCTA engine) which has 286,000 kilometers
We bought it used this summer knowing it ran rough until warmed up, at which point it runs like a champ.
I have VCDS and the OBD2 scanner and it was almost always showing P0303 Misfire (cylinder #3). Occasionally it would show P0300 and P0302 or P0304, but never P0301.
So, I removed the intake manifold and did the walnut shell blasting, yes my son helped lol.
The car immediately ran and shifted smoother however the misfire in cylinder #3 remained when warming up to operating temperature.
I swapped coil sticks around and the issue remained at cylinder #3. Then checked and swapped spark plugs around and still cylinder #3 misfire (gap on plugs was 0.030).
He has been driving it in S (Sport mode) as it felt a lot less jerky until warmed up, likely due to higher revs/more fuel being injected. Then shifts the transmission into Drive once it hits about 90 degrees celsius.
Today I did a compression test and each cylinder produced 125 psi (which I find low but the car really does run great once warmed up). The results were nearly identical so it's possible my compression gauge is bugged?
I have a used fuel injector and am planning to swap this in, it has to be the fuel injector at this point, right?
It must be clogged or dirty or something? I have also run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the last full tank and will do an oil change after the tank is topped up.
My plan is to remove fuel injectors 2 & 3, and put the used fuel injector I have into cylinder #2 and put the injector that was in #2, into cylinder #3.
This way if it's still throwing a P0303 code I'll have to trace the injector or coilstick wiring harness to see if there's ample current coming through, it seems like there is ample current as it fires right up even after 2-3 days cold sitting.
Just doesn't make sense to me yet why it gets better once at operating temp unless the ECU then tells the injector to spray normal or something?
Thanks for any hints/tips you may have!
I didn't have my son hold the gas pedal down to simulate WOT, is this required, is that perhaps why the readings were down at 125? I'm happy they're consistent across cylinders but 125psi seems low.
Maybe the mileage is now showing and the rings are down to their wear limits? Could this be affecting the misfire reading?
Thanks all
We bought it used this summer knowing it ran rough until warmed up, at which point it runs like a champ.
I have VCDS and the OBD2 scanner and it was almost always showing P0303 Misfire (cylinder #3). Occasionally it would show P0300 and P0302 or P0304, but never P0301.
So, I removed the intake manifold and did the walnut shell blasting, yes my son helped lol.
The car immediately ran and shifted smoother however the misfire in cylinder #3 remained when warming up to operating temperature.
I swapped coil sticks around and the issue remained at cylinder #3. Then checked and swapped spark plugs around and still cylinder #3 misfire (gap on plugs was 0.030).
He has been driving it in S (Sport mode) as it felt a lot less jerky until warmed up, likely due to higher revs/more fuel being injected. Then shifts the transmission into Drive once it hits about 90 degrees celsius.
Today I did a compression test and each cylinder produced 125 psi (which I find low but the car really does run great once warmed up). The results were nearly identical so it's possible my compression gauge is bugged?
I have a used fuel injector and am planning to swap this in, it has to be the fuel injector at this point, right?
It must be clogged or dirty or something? I have also run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the last full tank and will do an oil change after the tank is topped up.
My plan is to remove fuel injectors 2 & 3, and put the used fuel injector I have into cylinder #2 and put the injector that was in #2, into cylinder #3.
This way if it's still throwing a P0303 code I'll have to trace the injector or coilstick wiring harness to see if there's ample current coming through, it seems like there is ample current as it fires right up even after 2-3 days cold sitting.
Just doesn't make sense to me yet why it gets better once at operating temp unless the ECU then tells the injector to spray normal or something?
Thanks for any hints/tips you may have!
I didn't have my son hold the gas pedal down to simulate WOT, is this required, is that perhaps why the readings were down at 125? I'm happy they're consistent across cylinders but 125psi seems low.
Maybe the mileage is now showing and the rings are down to their wear limits? Could this be affecting the misfire reading?
Thanks all
