[Johnbreen414]

Hi everyone first day on this forum still figuring everything out! I have a 2010 vw Jetta Wolfsburg 2.0l T 6 speed, 70k miles great condition, but I’ve been having issues with. It started with heavy and shakey Idling, then check engine light. So I scanned it got error code p0301 which was misfire cylinder 1. Changed out (what I believe were the original) spark plugs and the car drove a lot better, check engine light stayed on. Same day went and bought four new ignition coil packs thinking maybe one of the coils was causing the problem, the car again drove a bit better but the light stayed one. About two days later the light went off and I thought maybe the problem was solved. Had no problems for about 4 days then yesterday when I was on the freeway everything was fine I shifted to 6 gear gave it gas to maybe 3k rpm and the car started shaking really bad, loosing power, and the check engine light started flashing along with the EPC night. At the time when I downshifted to 5Th gear everything was fine I could accelerate. Park the car last night didn’t do anything drove it this morning about a mile it was all fine, took it t Park the car last night didn’t do anything drove it this morning about a mile it was all fine, had a friend look at it and started stuttering and loosing power just like on the highway but through second third and fourth only under acceleration? scanned the car aging the code came back again to misfire cylinder one, I changed around the ignition coil packs and changed the first one but that didn’t clear the code. After driving for maybe another 10 minutes the code came back to misfire cylinder 4, then back to cylinder 1? Any thoughts?

 

[Johnbreen414]

Also my ECU light has been coming on and off somewhat at the same time as my check engine light. Thinking it maybe has more to do with the ECU but I’m still getting error code p0301.

 

[Johnbreen414]

Somewhat of an update. Had a friend who works with lots of Volkswagen and Audi come look at my car. He said he’s really leaning towards the high-pressure fuel pump as the culprit. Let me know what you guys think and if that could or sounds like some possible symptoms of a fuel pump failure I would appreciate all recommendations or If anyone knows anything that can help me out I would appreciate it greatly. Thank you

 

[GTI's]

Somewhat of an update. Had a friend who works with lots of Volkswagen and Audi come look at my car. He said he’s really leaning towards the high-pressure fuel pump as the culprit. Let me know what you guys think and if that could or sounds like some possible symptoms of a fuel pump failure I would appreciate all recommendations or If anyone knows anything that can help me out I would appreciate it greatly. Thank you

Have your friend that works on Vag come back with the scan tool and scan the car and check fuel pressures.

 

[Johnbreen414]

The short term pressure was a little low and the long term was trying to make up for it. I believe short was 0 -.08 and the long term was like 4.7 or so bouncing back and fourth trying to make up for the short term. Don’t really have much knowledge with VW but I’ll post as soon as I have an update! Thank you!

 

[Johnbreen414]

I got one person tell me it could be the carbon buildup after 70,000 miles and another person telling me it’s the high-pressure fuel pump.

 

[707Stang]

I got one person tell me it could be the carbon buildup after 70,000 miles and another person telling me it’s the high-pressure fuel pump.

I would take a borescope through the intake air temp sensors hole and check for carbon deposits.


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[MK5CNY]

Doesn't sound like the crank/engine speed sensor, but when you say it happens around 3k rpms....does the engine cut out at 3k in any gear? Just a thought it might be two separate things going on. My speed sensor went one week, then 2 weeks later both Cyl-1&5 coil packs went on my wife. Elec-Gremlins:thumbdown:

 

[GTI's]

If you had cold start misfires and depending on mileage I would say you should look in to the intake valves for carbon issues. Have you checked the actual fuel pressure for Lpfp and Hpfp?

 

[Johnbreen414]

Update! Went through the intake with a scope today and the carbon build up was crazy for only 71k miles! Whoever owned the car before me must have never gotten on oil change on time. We checked one and knew right away if that wasn’t the problem, it’s most likely contributing. So tomorrow I’m getting the carbon cleaning done for around 550$ with new seals and everything. We are going to also look in to the HPFP and PCV valve. And no the car wouldn’t cut out at all it just felt as if I’m spinning my front tires and going nowhere. Like it’s trying to engage and takeoff but won’t. Very strange. I appreciate all the suggestions and thoughts tho! I’ll update tomorrow after the cleanup.

 

[GTI's]

So you had absolutely no cold start issues(misses hard start rough idle) ? Post up some pictures of the valves before & after if you can. What method are they using to clean them?

 

[Johnbreen414]

I did about A week before the check engine light came on I had a rough start/Idol and the car was kind of shaking, then proceeded back to its normal RPM. I’m working on pokin A week before the check engine light came on I had a rough start/idle and some shaking in the car for maybe 30 seconds or so then went to its normal RPM, this happened twice if I’m remembering right. I’m working on posting pics of the carbon buildup I didn’t get any of the valves once they were cleaned, valve number one which I was getting most of my air codes for was the dirtiest as well. We just scrape them out by hand first sucked everything out and used a combination of chemicals brushes and scrapers, with a little shop vac to suck everything up. All the flaps were find besides one was missing a tiny rubber piece.

 

[Johnbreen414]

I’ll post pictures when I can figure it out! Anyways did the carbon cleaning along with a good oil change and change the oil filter right away. About a mile away once I was finished I got to third maybe 3500 RPM when my CEL started flashing and I could feel the same little shudder and slippage. Got on the highway I got better but still if I wanted to gas it and go full throttle, even if I got on it lightly it would bog down and shudder. By the time I got home it was again a little better. My friend and I talked about how since the fuel trim was low it could take a day or two to really start functioning properly, but the car felt amazing. Low speeds/gears it’s fine. Can’t really put to many highway miles on right now because I have a slight chip in my left front drivers wheel, right on the sidewall almost to the metal fibers. I’ll keep you updated as tomorrow I’m planning on driving/hopefully working and figuring this problem out! Thank you again

 

[fizan747]

Hey, Did you ever figure out what the issue was, how did you fix the problem? I am having the exact same issue with my 2010 VW Jetta right now, also at 70k miles.

 

[rbrendan009]

Hello, I am also having the same issues, I recently had temperature and coolant issues, got the right flange fixed, new coolant tank, and coolant flush, car was fine for about two days, had to get the heater core fixed after. The car was running fine for about three weeks and then my engine light came on car ran rough for about 30 seconds, the car ran okay and the engine light went off, the car sat for about three days, I got in my car again and got the engine light, ran the car around it was a little rough but nothing crazy, started the car for the third time that day and the EPC light and engine light was blinking, once over about 20 MPH car ran okay but once at slower speeds it was really shaky and rough. Took it to firestone (dumb choice by me) they state a whole new engine is needed, which I don't believe any insight into this?

 

[GTI's]

Get a professional scan tool(ross tech Vcds) on it and get the current Dtc. Might want to also post what exactly you are working on.

 

[zrickety]

Hello, I am also having the same issues, I recently had temperature and coolant issues, got the right flange fixed, new coolant tank, and coolant flush, car was fine for about two days, had to get the heater core fixed after. The car was running fine for about three weeks and then my engine light came on car ran rough for about 30 seconds, the car ran okay and the engine light went off, the car sat for about three days, I got in my car again and got the engine light, ran the car around it was a little rough but nothing crazy, started the car for the third time that day and the EPC light and engine light was blinking, once over about 20 MPH car ran okay but once at slower speeds it was really shaky and rough. Took it to firestone (dumb choice by me) they state a whole new engine is needed, which I don't believe any insight into this?

If it jumped time or the chain tensioner failed, you might need an engine. Assuming we are still talking about a 2010 Jetta 2.0.
Conversely, a good mechanic might get you going by fixing what's there. If the valves are bent, a machine shop can replace them or perhaps get a rebuilt head. The rest is misc parts and straightforward.

 

[rbrendan009]

If it jumped time or the chain tensioner failed, you might need an engine. Assuming we are still talking about a 2010 Jetta 2.0.
Conversely, a good mechanic might get you going by fixing what's there. If the valves are bent, a machine shop can replace them or perhaps get a rebuilt head. The rest is misc parts and straightforward.

This is a 2010 VW Jetta 2.5L | 5 cylinder