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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Winn VW I Southern California quoted me
39 months
12k miles
Zero down
389 plus tax

What do you guys think?

I know my credit score is decent (around 755). I’m considering purchasing because I drive a little more than 12k miles a year.

MSRP is $28,610

Would it be a ridiculous offer if I asked $25,000 out the door?

Or

39 months
12k miles
Zero down
$389 including tax?

Thanks!
 

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That would be another $17,400 in payments. I was saying buy the car and don't lease it. I am unsure of lease payments as I don't lease. I want to have something to show after I have paid all that money.


Sent from somewhere you’ve never been.
 

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Near the end of 2019 the 35th and S models were selling for well under $25 before any incentives.

I paid $23.7k for my 35th 6MT and that's before the $1k bonus cash.
I bought the last few of the '19s and I thought I got a decent deal. Paid 26k OTD.
But $23.7 for 35th, that's a steal! was that after TTT?
 

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GLI 35 - Cross Sport 4Motion
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Im actually surprised to hear how much people have been paying for them lately. Ive had my GLI 35 for slightly over a year now and I got my Pure Grey 35th DSG that had a near 29k sticker price off the lot for just under 23k... I did hear the intial sales of the GLI were terrible though. I didnt even know anything about the MK7 I was just down at the BMW side of their dealership dropping my 335 off when I saw the GLI's sitting there. Went for a test drive and wound up leaving the 335.
 

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Im actually surprised to hear how much people have been paying for them lately. Ive had my GLI 35 for slightly over a year now and I got my Pure Grey 35th DSG that had a near 29k sticker price off the lot for just under 23k... I did hear the intial sales of the GLI were terrible though. I didnt even know anything about the MK7 I was just down at the BMW side of their dealership dropping my 335 off when I saw the GLI's sitting there. Went for a test drive and wound up leaving the 335.
Would actually loved to get the GLI in Grey. would nicely complemented my Nardo Grey A6.
23k, was that before or after tax and fee?
 

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Winn VW I Southern California quoted me
39 months
12k miles
Zero down
389 plus tax

What do you guys think?

I know my credit score is decent (around 755). I’m considering purchasing because I drive a little more than 12k miles a year.

MSRP is $28,610

Would it be a ridiculous offer if I asked $25,000 out the door?

Or

39 months
12k miles
Zero down
$389 including tax?

Thanks!
How long do you intend to keep the car? If you regularly trade every 3 years, then a lease can be smart. But if you intend to keep the car for 5 years or more, its normally recommended to negotiate your best price and buy it. Short-term car ownership is generally the most expensive way to own a car, either lease or buy-and-trade after 3 years. The total cost of ownership is about the same for both.


Im actually surprised to hear how much people have been paying for them lately. Ive had my GLI 35 for slightly over a year now and I got my Pure Grey 35th DSG that had a near 29k sticker price off the lot for just under 23k... I did hear the intial sales of the GLI were terrible though. I didnt even know anything about the MK7 I was just down at the BMW side of their dealership dropping my 335 off when I saw the GLI's sitting there. Went for a test drive and wound up leaving the 335.
I don’t understand some of these prices. Was your OTD price after trade and down payment? Dealer cost is about 93% of MSRP. Dealer hold back is supposed to be 2% of MSRP. If a GLI lists for $29,000, dealer cost should be about $26,970. If a dealership wants to “move metal” they can sacrifice the holdback and reduce the price another $580, for a true zero-profit deal of $26,390. I know VW can have some crazy incentives: $1,000 basic rebate, $500 military, $500 new student, $500 corporate discount, etc. Let’s say you qualify for another $2,000. That brings the price down to $24,390. For an OTD price of $23,000, you’d need a negotiated price of less than $22,000, depending on exact sales tax, doc fee, and tags. How did you get the price that low? Was that price after your trade or any down payment?

I just want to know what I’m missing. I bought my car for dealer cost minus whatever incentives I qualified for, which in my case was only $500. But I also had a trade, which I convinced them was worth a few hundred more than they first offered. My Autobahn listed for just over $30,400 and I think my negotiated price before my trade but after the $500 incentive was about $27,700. Then we added doc fees, subtracted my car’s trade-in value and then added sales tax for my OTD price.

Without a trade or down payment, how did you get your OTD price so low?
 

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When VW wouldn't do anything for me when my R-line trans was stupid my dealer stepped up. They came down $6K on my Autobahn and gave me way more on my trade than it was worth. The car was on their lot for less than 4 months, not sure if that is long or not.

So, dealers can work magic on their own own. Maybe keep trying and be prepared to walk away or go to another dealer.


Sent from somewhere you’ve never been.
 

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How long do you intend to keep the car? If you regularly trade every 3 years, then a lease can be smart. But if you intend to keep the car for 5 years or more, its normally recommended to negotiate your best price and buy it. Short-term car ownership is generally the most expensive way to own a car, either lease or buy-and-trade after 3 years. The total cost of ownership is about the same for both.




I don’t understand some of these prices. Was your OTD price after trade and down payment? Dealer cost is about 93% of MSRP. Dealer hold back is supposed to be 2% of MSRP. If a GLI lists for $29,000, dealer cost should be about $26,970. If a dealership wants to “move metal” they can sacrifice the holdback and reduce the price another $580, for a true zero-profit deal of $26,390. I know VW can have some crazy incentives: $1,000 basic rebate, $500 military, $500 new student, $500 corporate discount, etc. Let’s say you qualify for another $2,000. That brings the price down to $24,390. For an OTD price of $23,000, you’d need a negotiated price of less than $22,000, depending on exact sales tax, doc fee, and tags. How did you get the price that low? Was that price after your trade or any down payment?

I just want to know what I’m missing. I bought my car for dealer cost minus whatever incentives I qualified for, which in my case was only $500. But I also had a trade, which I convinced them was worth a few hundred more than they first offered. My Autobahn listed for just over $30,400 and I think my negotiated price before my trade but after the $500 incentive was about $27,700. Then we added doc fees, subtracted my car’s trade-in value and then added sales tax for my OTD price.

Without a trade or down payment, how did you get your OTD price so low?

The 2019s were being given away earlier this year. I paid just shy of $21k for a GLI S DSG Pure Gray, MSRP $28,255. I did have a trade and the trade value was strong as well. This was days before the country shut down in March.

To be absolutely clear for you, the car was $21k, as in no trade was factored into this number. The discount on the car was $7,300 from MSRP (26% below). I bought the car in cash. Doc fee $299.
 

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Once you have a trade involved, You can’t really compare it with deals without trade in. You can’t compare it with another deal WITH trade in for that matter. Each deal becomes very unique. Lots of time dealer would heavily discount their cars and make it up on the back end on the trade in.
 

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The 2019s were being given away earlier this year. I paid just shy of $21k for a GLI S DSG Pure Gray, MSRP $28,255. I did have a trade and the trade value was strong as well. This was days before the country shut down in March.

To be absolutely clear for you, the car was $21k, as in no trade was factored into this number. The discount on the car was $7,300 from MSRP (26% below). I bought the car in cash. Doc fee $299.
Amazing!
 

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I don’t understand some of these prices. Was your OTD price after trade and down payment? Dealer cost is about 93% of MSRP. Dealer hold back is supposed to be 2% of MSRP. If a GLI lists for $29,000, dealer cost should be about $26,970. If a dealership wants to “move metal” they can sacrifice the holdback and reduce the price another $580, for a true zero-profit deal of $26,390. I know VW can have some crazy incentives: $1,000 basic rebate, $500 military, $500 new student, $500 corporate discount, etc. Let’s say you qualify for another $2,000. That brings the price down to $24,390. For an OTD price of $23,000, you’d need a negotiated price of less than $22,000, depending on exact sales tax, doc fee, and tags. How did you get the price that low? Was that price after your trade or any down payment?

I just want to know what I’m missing. I bought my car for dealer cost minus whatever incentives I qualified for, which in my case was only $500. But I also had a trade, which I convinced them was worth a few hundred more than they first offered. My Autobahn listed for just over $30,400 and I think my negotiated price before my trade but after the $500 incentive was about $27,700. Then we added doc fees, subtracted my car’s trade-in value and then added sales tax for my OTD price.

Without a trade or down payment, how did you get your OTD price so low?
I absolutely love your logic above ... there are way too many "look at my deal" posts with numbers that simply do not add up. It's simple math. Dealers are not in business to lose money ... break-even, maybe ... but when a complete set of end-to-end numbers are not included when representing a "look at my great deal", then the BS meter pegs into the red zone ... not at all helpful information, and in fact is a distraction.
 

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GLI 35 - Cross Sport 4Motion
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I don’t understand some of these prices. Was your OTD price after trade and down payment? Dealer cost is about 93% of MSRP. Dealer hold back is supposed to be 2% of MSRP. If a GLI lists for $29,000, dealer cost should be about $26,970. If a dealership wants to “move metal” they can sacrifice the holdback and reduce the price another $580, for a true zero-profit deal of $26,390. I know VW can have some crazy incentives: $1,000 basic rebate, $500 military, $500 new student, $500 corporate discount, etc. Let’s say you qualify for another $2,000. That brings the price down to $24,390. For an OTD price of $23,000, you’d need a negotiated price of less than $22,000, depending on exact sales tax, doc fee, and tags. How did you get the price that low? Was that price after your trade or any down payment?

I just want to know what I’m missing. I bought my car for dealer cost minus whatever incentives I qualified for, which in my case was only $500. But I also had a trade, which I convinced them was worth a few hundred more than they first offered. My Autobahn listed for just over $30,400 and I think my negotiated price before my trade but after the $500 incentive was about $27,700. Then we added doc fees, subtracted my car’s trade-in value and then added sales tax for my OTD price.

Without a trade or down payment, how did you get your OTD price so low?
I had a trade, my trade paid for the GLI just under 23k. The hardest thing was convincing my wife over the phone how much more fun the GLI was lol. Im positive they made their money back due to my 335 though, they do not make deals that do not benefit them. Honestly, i hated the F30. A lot of the BMW bits that I loved vanished with the F30 and they have just finally came back in the form of the new M340xi but im not paying 70k for a 3 series.

Outside of that I only paid 749 on registration. I should also note I have a long established relationship with the dealership. Ive bought four cars from the one salesman alone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I drive at least 13k a year, and don’t mind keeping this car forever. That’s why I’m thinking about purchasing.

I want to give them an offer they can take seriously, and one I’ll be happy with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Timmons of Long Beach found a 2019 and quoted $27,000!!!! They didn’t state if it was an S or Autobahn. Even if it was an Autobahn, isn’t that high??

Pasadena VW said
$27,195 plus tax for an S!! That’s contingent to cash or NON VW credit!

I really don’t like dealerships...
 
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