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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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A bit tricky to see, intake cam is almost flat but exhaust is slightly advanced. Cam plate slides right in both cams. The motor has a headspacer for boost 8.5:1. My N/A 3.2 timed right up but this one is fighting me. All other timing marks are on. Any and all advice/pointer/info and suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance 3.2 wizards!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
kgw thank you for the reply. Good videos, i have watched them multiple times, quite informative. Along with a few others regarding headspacers of that thickness. He is running the 5mm spacer which is 7.0:1 from HPA. I won't be going that low which is why i started to think/wonder if this may be the reason I feel my cams are not 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Darepoole, thank you for replying. So there is a .005 difference between the cam plate and notches on cams from level on the exhaust cam and .003 between level on the intake cam. If that makes any sense? Lol. All other marks are dead on. You mentioned clearancing the guide, is there a particular one folks do?
 

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1999 Audi A4 Stroker Build in Progress S200SXE, Custom Megasquirt ECU, ABA Forged Crank and more
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Darepoole, thank you for replying. So there is a .005 difference between the cam plate and notches on cams from level on the exhaust cam and .003 between level on the intake cam. If that makes any sense? Lol. All other marks are dead on. You mentioned clearancing the guide, is there a particular one folks do?
Installing a headspacer slightly advances timing I dont have an exact number since it depends on the size of the head-spacer. I think if you don‘t have any slack on the backside it may not matter. Also might just be able to use an adjustable cam gear.

here’s a link that shows some info about clearancing the lower timing chain. I’m not sure if it required in your case though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The spacer I got is from BarTek, more or less the same thing. But that info about the lower guide is great.
So, if I give the cams a good nudge with the wrench they will sit within a few thou of being exactly flat.
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The spacer I got is from BarTek, more or less the same thing. But that info about the lower guide is great.
So, if I give the cams a good nudge with the wrench they will sit within a few thou of being exactly flat. View attachment 210641
Yeah that’s super close. I assume if you remove material from that lower guide that should straighten them up. That amount of difference wont matter but getting them perfect is also a good call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I still may remove some material and see where they land. As is.. would you button it up and turn the key? In the end I do not want to have to pull the motor back out because of stupid timing faults. So whatever is necessary now to make as proper as it needs to be.
 

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I still may remove some material and see where they land. As is.. would you button it up and turn the key? In the end I do not want to have to pull the motor back out because of stupid timing faults. So whatever is necessary now to make as proper as it needs to be.
I would I think you‘ll be fine. Hopefully a 3.2 guru will chime In with better/more info
 

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You were a straight shooter when I posted up about over spray from powder coating under my valve cover. It's all gone! 👍
hahah I forgot about that. Did it wear off or did you sand it off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It was pretty new and not terrible heavy so paint stripper and a brass wire wheel on my drill made rather quick work of 90%. The rest by dremel. I only needed one other person to be a bit skeptical about it, as I definitely was. I will take honesty over agreability any damn day and twice on Sunday. Lol
 

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It was pretty new and not terrible heavy so paint stripper and a brass wire wheel on my drill made rather quick work of 90%. The rest by dremel. I only needed one other person to be a bit skeptical about it, as I definitely was. I will take honesty over agreability any damn day and twice on Sunday. Lol
Ohh that‘s right! Much agreed
 

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interesting stuff :) Btw how do you guys clean the mating surfaces here, with a razor blade perfectly perpendicular and drag it towards the outside? Id imagine a wire brush here would cause a mess and possibly get a wire brush bristle down in there if it fell off and id never notice. which scotch brite if you use em, so many different ones, i bought stainless and brass i think, along with extreme greenie weenie . Also while i have the valve cover off, what should i be looking for in here? Gonna replace the oil sep and rubber obviously but like my 1.8t had the lobes all almost rounded and i had my cams replaced (thankfully the 1.8t was engine code AWD and the shop was just waiting to get rid of them for cheap and he showed me my old ones) ...if i had to guess they were about to bend all my valves right, once they cant be pressed correctly and smack pistons? Prev owner from long oil changes?

Anywho, check cam lobes and what else :) thanks.

Also does this video help any ? humble mechanic
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just use red, gray and green scotch Brite pads. Plastic and steel razor blades as needed. Cam lobes on 24v I don't think are an issue, AFAIK. That video is a great video btw, unfortunately I am not in the 7.0:1 compression camp though, I was. That 5mm head spacer plus 2 head gaskets requires a chain with an extra link. I am running most of the HPA DTM 350 system but 8.5:1 compression instead so normal chain. The extra link chain at 8.5 is to long and puts a weird angle on the timing chain tensioner guide. Although I m not to crazy about the 8.5 but people run them that way I suppose.
 

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I just use red, gray and green scotch Brite pads. Plastic and steel razor blades as needed. Cam lobes on 24v I don't think are an issue, AFAIK. That video is a great video btw, unfortunately I am not in the 7.0:1 compression camp though, I was. That 5mm head spacer plus 2 head gaskets requires a chain with an extra link. I am running most of the HPA DTM 350 system but 8.5:1 compression instead so normal chain. The extra link chain at 8.5 is to long and puts a weird angle on the timing chain tensioner guide. Although I m not to crazy about the 8.5 but people run them that way I suppose.
I feel like a Padawan reading this. Good info though because being off just 2 teeth is BAD, reading you can add a tooth sounds crazy to me. One day, knock on nothing, I'll have a garage and the motor I will conquer! Thanks for the rookie info for me as always
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
2 teeth is for sure bad, even one is not correct and will lead to power loss in most engines. Timing is just that, has to be 100%. These engines stock are pretty straight forward to time. Although they can be a bit tricky when setting up cam timing even in stock form. I m at a head spacer thickness that leads to the engine being a bit more of a PITA for me to time properly. Or at least this engine is being a pain in the ass to get spot on.
 

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Timing scares me as it is, that spacer makes me more unsure. After watching humble do the timing one (not spacer) I feel confident enough to do my next timing chain myself, granted he had nothing in the way though lol
 
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