[choobs]

Hello All! I finally got my swap car to try my hand at this swap. 2006 Passat 4mo w/149k on the clock. I'll pretty much be following the blueprint G60ING and the contributors there have laid out and find my own ways to solve certain problems along the way.

The Corrado is a 92 SLC so its a dizzy VR6 with 210k on it, 10lb flywheel, K&W V2's, BBS Montreals. Other than that, pretty much stock.

So the order of operations will be to get that 3.6 out of the passat so I can do a lot of work to it before I even touch the Corrado. The 3.6 leaky, might as well change a lot of seals, chains, guides, headgasket, valve seals, etc whiles its out. I also want to keep driving the Corrado while the weather is nice


Things to figure out:

1.) Accessory drive. I know I need 24v VR6 accessory bracket w/mk4 tensioner pulley. Since I am starting with an SLC I believe my AC Compressor, water pump and PS pump are fine (all 12V accessories bolted up to 24v accessory bracket)

2.) Crank pulley. Either figure out what machining needs done to make the OEM part work or Fluidamper Passat crank pulley should work..will update later. UPDATE: Passat crank pulley 100% works

3.) Clutch and flywheel: I really like the lightweight flywheel I currently have. Not sure is that is a good route to take here. But, being that the engine is ~270ft-lbs at the crank, a stage 2 SB rated at 325ft-lbs would probably be enough and SB conservatively rates their stuff. Clutch Masters doesn't list torque values for their clutches so I may shoot them an email to see what they would recommend. Leaning Clutch Masters FX300 and having the old flywheel resurfaced. UPDATE: went with Clutch Master FX350 and it is fantastic. Had to SHORTEN the clutch master pushrod by 1/8" for pedal to feel stock. Resurfaced 10lb flywheel works great as well)

4.) Transmission: Would a bolt kit in the diff be enough? Or just bite the bullet on a wavetrac LSD? I'm certainly looking for advice on this one. Car will be street driven only, not launched hard. But pulls to 6k+ will happen. (had peloquin LSD installed, necessary upgrade IMO.)

5.) Oil cooler: Stock? Or go down to a smaller mkIV one? Going Stock with a modified front engine mount

6.) Swap software: Is there any big differences between UM and Malone on this? I know I at least need IMMO defeat and coding for 2 OS2 sensors vs 4... ( currently running stock software, there is rev hang on the factory software but it works)

7.) Cooling: 909CFM low profile fan isn't enough to keep it cool. Testing a 1328CFM 12" medium profile Spal soon. I would also like to make a fan shroud and run both fans and put the 900CFM fan on the high switch


I'm sure I'll think of more...

 

[G60ING]

Things to figure out:

1.) Accessory drive. I know I need 24v VR6 accessory bracket w/mk4 tensioner pulley. Since I am starting with an SLC I believe my AC Compressor, water pump and PS pump are fine

2.) Crank pulley. Either figure out what machining needs done to make the OEM part work or Fluidamper

3.) Clutch and flywheel: I really like the lightweight flywheel I currently have. Not sure is that is a good route to take here. But, being that the engine is ~270ft-lbs at the crank, a stage 2 SB rated at 325ft-lbs would probably be enough and SB conservatively rates their stuff. Clutchmasters doesn't list torque values for their clutches so I may shoot them an email to see what they would recommend.

4.) Transmission: Would a bolt kit in the diff be enough? Or just bite the bullet on a wavetrac LSD? I'm certainly looking for advice on this one. Car will be street driven only, not launched hard. But pulls to 6k+ will happen.

5.) Oil cooler: Stock? Or go down to a smaller mkIV one?

6.) Swap software: Is there any big differences between UM and Malone on this? I know I at least need IMMO defeat and coding for 2 OS2 sensors vs 4...

1) not sure, I’ll let you write that book but why not do the higher amp alternator. Plus it fits better. Ac compressor I agree. The tensioner and PS is where the questions really sit.

2) You can use the Passat pulley.

3) That 325lb might not be enough. Remember you are doing a tuning and exhaust work to the

4) Bolt kit and reinforce the roll pin in the diff. The roll pin fails more than anything.

5) Use the stock 3.6 cooler, I tried to do the 12V one and after going back and forth after fitting it I decided the space gained by the 12V wasn’t worth it.

6) Nobody has dynoed the Malone tune yet. In the 3.6 FB Group John Levine has been doing some dyno testing of tunes.

Mine isn’t that far along. Mine had a rev hang but Mark Malone has been working to tune it out. My Buddy’s son just did a auto to manual swap in he B6 4motion with a Malone tune and Mark has almost completely fixed the rev hang. I think I’m probably near 295whp and after some tweaks I’ll be north of 300 and maybe 320 with cams.

 

[choobs]

Made some progress today, I'm dead tired but it was well worth the effort! Picked up a 24V accessory bracket and belt tensioner and also ordered a bunch of seals to start getting this old motor back in shape.

Below is a list of ordered parts so far, still need to get a timing chain kit, head bolts, and water pump..I'm sure there is more outside of that I'll need

I've also started a google spreadsheet of parts with OEM part numbers. 3.6 Parts List



Ordered parts

Intake mani seal - lower 03H133237D
valve cover seal 03H103483E
rear main 021103051C
front main 022103151D
valve stem seals (x24) 36109675A
head gasket 03H103383K
oil cooler seal - inner 038117070A
oil cooler seal - outer 038 117 070
knock sensor 030905377C

 

[02tt225]

Good luck man.

 

[G60ING]

Good luck man.

Nice work on the parts list, if only Kept every one of those that I've put together.

 

[choobs]

Got the engine on my Jegs 1000lb stand. I ditched the 4 arms and drilled the plate out for the rear motor mount points. That way I have access to the front and rear of the motor...

Got the 24V bracket and alternator sorted, changed out the water pump, stripped the timing covers and valve cover, ordered a bunch of timing parts. Everything looks clean inside the motor but I'm going to just do the chains and guides while I'm here. Between FCP and ECS I was able to put together a decent near complete mostly OEM VW kit for $270. Oh and did a ton of cleaning since this lump of iron is GRIMY. Next on the list is to take the head off and start cleaning out those gross intake ports!


Timing parts and numbers (the only part I didn't buy is the pin on the upper guide #071 109 515)

Timing Chain - Lower 03H109465 Iwis
Timing Chain - Upper 03H109503 Iwis
Chain Tensioner Rail - Lower 21109467 Iwis
Chain Tensioner Rail Upper 03H109509A VW
Timing Guide - lower 21109469 VW
Timing Guide - Upper 03H109513B VW
Guide Pin Lower 21109471 VW
Chain Tensioner - Upper 03H109507 VW
Guide Pin upper 066109511D VW
Guide Rail Upper 066109514A VW
Oil pump bolt N10404404 VW
Tensioner Bolt - upper N10613901 VW
Tensioner Bolt - lower N90923801 VW

accessory bracket

Timing and cams

 

[G60ING]

Nice progress

 

[[email protected]]

nice work! let the fun begin:thumbup:

 

[choobs]

Got this heavy lump off the block. I'd like to get this to a machine shop soon in case there is a longer than normal wait time on turn around. In the meantime, I can focus on stripping the engine harness, accelerator pedal, ecu, fuel pump, FP control module, fuel lines and such.

It looked like there was some leaking starting into one of the cylinders so this was certainly a good thing to do while the motor is away from the car.

also tried to capture the timing marks on the cams as best I could. Timing on the crank pulley was set to TDC on cyl #1 by the normal marking convention

 

[G60ING]

I have my own opinion on decking a vr6 head and that as little as possible should be taken off and the reason being is that timing chains won't be easy to get right with the head being shorter than it was before. It would be cool if VW had different thickness of head gaskets like they do for TDIs for VR6s to make up for machining of the head. When I build my next engine I might try not to deck the head and just use copper sealant on each side of the HG rather than risk a shop taking too much material.

I had a bramble VR that I rebuilt the head (and decked it) on and it never ran 100% perfect after decking the head and I have always suspected the shop took too much and it caused all sort of minor issues related to the deck height. I sold that car for a huge loss to the next owner with huge disclaimers and he continues to drive it with odd running behaviors.

 

[choobs]

Thanks for the reply G60ING, I didn't consider a lot of that. I know I have not decked VW heads in the past and used the copper spray to good results. Something else I didn't consider was compression ratio. This motor is already 12:1, not sure how it would be able to cope with more compression.

All this said, I think I like the copper spray/no decking option so I'll most likely go that route. Which means that maybe I can put this thing back together this weekend :thumbup::beer:

 

[choobs]

Making more progress. I had intended on changing out that valve stem seals but the angle of the valve springs wasn't really accommodating my el cheapo valve spring compressor, so I ditched that idea and instead bought a Himalayan Freight media blaster and some fine walnut media (24 grit.) I saw G60ING had posted in his thread about having luck with it so I gave it a go myself. The valve on the gun isn't the best but it did force me to upgrade some stuff on my compressor and get an inline condensation filter.

Results: not bad. I could have spent more time with it but I figured I took years worth of build up out of these runners so its still a win. I had also soaked the runners in seafoam which helped loosen up some of the heavier chunks. I can see the valve and the guide, good enough for now I suppose.

Cams, caps and lifters stripped from the head

I ended up turning the cams by hand to open the intake valves and scrape more crud off. So much buildup on the valves...

Lets put the head back on already!

Heads on and torqued up. I need to wait for a special tool to keep the HPFP gear from turning however this must be a tool for only the early BLVs. I saw Nater I believe have a tool to hold an oblong shaft but my HPFP just has the hole for that shaft. Instead, I have to wait for this special tool which was of course twice as much as the oblong shaft one. VW Audi Valve Timing Adjustment Tool T10332.

 

[G60ING]

I added the tools and details to my master list. I ordered the cheaper one at first too:banghead:

Specialty Tools:
Cam Lock Plate (same as other 24V VR6s)
Timing tool for the HPFP on early engines (no vacuum pump on the head(early BLVs 2006-2008)
Timing tool for the HPFP on Later engines (Mechanical Vacuum pump on head)
Coolant Vacuum refiller

 

[choobs]

Question regarding timing:

My intermediate shaft gear is 180 degrees out from the 7:00 position. I think this shaft only controls the oil pump but 180 deg out should be fine. Can anyone confirm that? Also, I have the intake camshaft adjuster turned all the way counter clockwise for the timing marks to line up.

Crank pulley mark is still on the block mark. Crank gear tooth is lined up with where the case splits.

Still waiting on the tool, but this is pretty close to correct I think.

 

[G60ING]

Rotate the crank 360*

 

[choobs]

Rotate the crank 360*

Looks like the IM shaft rotates 90 degrees clockwise for each crank rotation, so it took 2 full rotations. In any case, oil sprocket mark lines up now :thumbup:

 

[choobs]

A nice little reference for torque specs just for the timing components and all the timing mark locations

http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-vw-passat-3c-3-6-fsi-r36-4motion/

 

[jddaigle]

A nice little reference for torque specs just for the timing components and all the timing mark locations

http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-vw-passat-3c-3-6-fsi-r36-4motion/

Awesome reference! I'm going to add it to the Resource Thread.

 

[choobs]

Been getting side tracked will all the stuff around the house I should have been doing instead of tinkering with my toys...

anyway, new parts aquired are:

ARP flywheel bolts
ARP diff ring gear bolts
Clutch Masters FX350 clutch/pressure plate
CE2 relay and fuse sockets from G60ING (thanks man!)
New Beetle OBDII port
MSD Tach Adaptor

Today I did at least take the oil pan off to check the oil pickup and make sure everything looks right. Upon inspection I found that this gasket/screen from the vvt housing must have fell out when I was disassembling the head...

Sigh. This means all the timing covers came back off, cam adjusters, top chain and guide/tensioner and then it all needed put back together...again. But at least the problem was found before the motor went in the car and I kind of wanted to reseal the lower timing cover again since some oil had leaked on to the mating surface that didn't get cleaned off. So it should be all around better at this point :thumbup:

Tomorrow im going to do my best to get the Corrado's engine/trans out mostly to get that flywheel out and off to the machine shop to be surfaced. If the planets align, I can have it back for the 3 day weekend at least have the motor sitting in the car...we'll find out! Option 2 is to just order an OEM flywheel since they are like $60.

 

[choobs]

Woo! Parts!