[pdcm]

So I got a low mileage LPFP and this may have been the problem all along. Group 103 now shows a stable adjustment value and the car was hot and idled for a good bit and did not stall. Nice!

Group 103 with new pump

*snip*

Interesting. Your numbers look totally different than what I was seeing today, but if it's working now with the other pump, that's great.

 

[choobs]

Interesting. Your numbers look totally different than what I was seeing today, but if it's working now with the other pump, that's great.

Its VW so I almost expect wild variations with stuff like this lol Thanks for the data screenshot!

 

[choobs]

I had forgotten just how bad the original shiftbox/tower is on the 02a. Polo shift tower and 02J shiftbox conversation will be added to the list!

 

[G60ING]

That internal filter has had me concerned, seems like a horrible design for long term ownership.

 

[choobs]

That internal filter has had me concerned, seems like a horrible design for long term ownership.

I agree. Best case scenario is that a way can be found to remove that internal filter and go with an external with bundy connectors. I know the FSI/TSI 2.0's have this but there is also a fuel pressure regulator built into the filter with a return line to the tank. I don't know if a single input/output style fuel filter exists with bundy connectors but I'll admit that I haven't looked yet either.

 

[choobs]

So looking into an external fuel filter system for the 3.6 I came across some documentation about the current fuel system:

The 3.6 pump system has a pressure relief valve built into the unit that will open at 6.4 bar.

However the OEM VW FSI filter has a built in FPR for 6.6 bar

https://www.shopdap.com/vw-audi-2-0-t-fuel-filter-1k0201051k-1.html

so under ideal conditions, there would never be a need for the external filter to have to return fuel to the tank. I am curious if I can simply buy a plug for the end of the return line and have it act as straight through filter...

 

[choobs]

Oh nice, having gear box issues now. I have to double clutch in order to get any gear. After fighting my power bleeder and its dry rotted nylon hoses I bled the clutch master and slave, checked the fluid level in the trans and that took ~ 1/2 liter of gear oil but the issue persists.

Since putting this thing back together the clutch has always engaged really low in the pedal travel but finding gears was never an issue. I hope it isn't something internal...

 

[G60ING]

Which transmission?

If 02a what clutch line? I changed out a SS one and installed a Phenix line and it corrected my pedal from hanging up after being pushed in. The other aftermarket SS line didn’t allow for fluid to return correctly. Take a look at Noah’s: https://phenixengineering.com/shop/vw-02a-clutch-master-clutch-slave-stainless-steel-line-early/


I buy clutch master and slave cylinders from local big chains because they are relatively cheap and FAST delivery


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[choobs]

Which transmission?

If 02a what clutch line? I changed out a SS one and installed a Phenix line and it corrected my pedal from hanging up after being pushed in. The other aftermarket SS line didn’t allow for fluid to return correctly. Take a look at Noah’s: https://phenixengineering.com/shop/vw-02a-clutch-master-clutch-slave-stainless-steel-line-early/


I buy clutch master and slave cylinders from local big chains because they are relatively cheap and FAST delivery


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I didn't replace any lines. They are all still the lines that were on the car prior to the swap. And the system worked fine. Original trans, 02a that I had Hank rebuild and install the LSD + longer 5th. I'm going to play with the linkage and make sure it is all adjusted correctly and go from there.

I have full pedal travel and it feels fine but the engagement point is just as the pedal comes off the floor instead of mid-pedal like it used to. This is how its been since first post-swap drive though.

 

[choobs]

Took the car out on Friday after adjusting some of the shift linkage components and ended up stuck a few miles from my home with the front to back throw completely inoperable. Apparently when I was "adjusting" I loosened the bolt that holds the shift weight to the cable end to the transmission and the nut backed off and the weight fell off. Luckily I only lost the rubber cable bushing as the weight was sitting on top of the trans. Ordered up some diesel geek cable end bushings so we'l see if this helps out my gearbox issues...

 

[G60ING]

Also a tid bit of info, I made a slightly longer slave cylinder rod. I can't remember why but it wasn't much longer.

 

[choobs]

Also a tid bit of info, I made a slightly longer slave cylinder rod. I can't remember why but it wasn't much longer.

I would have had to have measurements to understand where the flywheel sat relative to the transmission bellhousing. I'm sure there is a slight change in distance since full pedal is barely disengaging the clutch so a longer pushrod here would make sense. Did you document how much length you added? I can't imagine its more than a few millimeters...

I would have to look at the end of the pushrod but putting some adjustment in that might be an interesting project.

 

[G60ING]

I would have had to have measurements to understand where the flywheel sat relative to the transmission bellhousing. I'm sure there is a slight change in distance since full pedal is barely disengaging the clutch so a longer pushrod here would make sense. Did you document how much length you added? I can't imagine its more than a few millimeters...

I would have to look at the end of the pushrod but putting some adjustment in that might be an interesting project.

I can't recall but I did it in about 30minutes with a drill, angle grinder and bench grinder using the shank of a bolt.

 

[choobs]

1.) Made a new pushrod out of an 8mm bolt shank. Made it ~6mm longer (1/4") than the original including the nylon cap. It seems to help a lot but a few more mm is probably the sweet spot.

2.) Thinking of getting something like this so I can try and duct cooler air into the intake .

3.) May have a lead on a mkII 1.6 airbox for an ECU enclosure!

 

[G60ING]

Excellent


I think I’ll be putting my ecu inside the car this winter for two reasons, away from water and two it frees up the intercooler spacer so I can mount an oil cooler there. A by product is that I’ll have less wires under the hood.

 

[choobs]

Excellent


I think I’ll be putting my ecu inside the car this winter for two reasons, away from water and two it frees up the intercooler spacer so I can mount an oil cooler there. A by product is that I’ll have less wires under the hood.

That'll certainly keep moisture off the ECU! Hopefully its somewhere away from the heater core if that decides to leak...

I was thinking of an oil cooler as well. I have the trans cooler from the Passat doner, it might be overkill but that oil would be far cooler than it gets now.

 

[choobs]

Finally installed this over the OEM Corrado wheel. Its probably close to period correct!

 

[choobs]

Still having clutch issues. Engagement is still when the pedal comes right off the floor and I get far too much grinding unless I double clutch and/or get lucky. If I'm past 4000 RPM then pushing the lever into the next gear is very difficult.

I replaced the master cylinder since the one in the car had a VW stamp and was most likely the original, no change. I did measure the swell of the rubber part of the master to slave hose and it did swell under pressure by ~ 1mm in diameter. Not sure if that is a lot or not but I am thinking of putting in a steel braided line from USP and see if this fixes the issue.

If this doesn't fix the issue then the gear box needs to come out for further assessment. I figure $60 for a steel braided line is worth trying since further analysis is a lot more work...

 

[G60ING]

Broken pressure plate rivot/strap

 

[choobs]

Broken pressure plate rivot/strap

Yeah that is my fear! We'll find out soon enough