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Discussion Starter #203
I went through the same troubleshooting for my broken rivot/strap when a stock pp failed 2 years ago. I’d put money on it but I hope I’m wrong. The symptoms seem very similar.
Thing is, this clutch has been like this since day 1 so if a strap broke it happened immediately or before I even installed the PP. Wouldn't be the first time I've had issues with a performance clutch.

Stainless braided master/slave goes in today!
 

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Discussion Starter #206
hopefully its just a bent fork
If it is a bent fork, seems like a lot of the upgraded options are just boxed in versions of the OEM unit. Easy enough of a fix but a PITA to wrestle the trans back out.

I did read of a way to get the trans out by sliding the motor all the way to the passenger frame rail to get some extra room. It would save removing everything from the engine and removing the engine/trans as a single unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Note to self: always take the engine and trans out as a single unit. What a pain it is to just take the trans out with no room to work.

Anyway, here is a pic of the clutch fork. When I google OEM units, the strike plate doesn't look like what I have here. I also don't see a part number and I'm not sure that is normal for this part. I also see no stress cracks.

 

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Discussion Starter #210

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Discussion Starter #215
.1mm I don’t think that would be huge but with so much work to pull the transmission I’d consider trying different parts. A new Sachs flywheel is $100, a new clutch fork is $xx new pressure plate bolts and so on.

Not having to pull the transmission/drivetrain again is priceless.
I think I am going to leave the flywheel in the car, I also cannot see this being the issue but am willing to roll the dice on that part. I did order a new clutch fork and there isn't many differences between these two. The stamping for the slave pushrod is different and there is a little less material on the sides of the unit making the one on the bottom approx 1.25 ounces lighter.

 

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Discussion Starter #216
Trans is back in the car, I'll button the rest of the assembly up this weekend and see if there is any difference.

Reinforced clutch fork, welding mild steel is so much easier than stainless!

 

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Discussion Starter #217
Good news - the clutch feels like it should and engages at the top side of the pedal travel! I used the OEM length push rod and it feels great. I'm guessing that the slave cylinder had been slowly failing since I first put it together but I am glad that the clutch fork got re-enforced. :thumbup::beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Received my O2J gear selector swap parts from Autotech and sourced the shift tower/box/cables from a mk4 golf. NICE.

While I am in there, exhaust is getting completely redone. To get the car on the road I tied into the system that was on the car which is 2.5", necks down to 2" where the midmuffler was, and 2.5" out of the rear muffler. This was a hodge podge system thrown together with parts I had lying around and the system on the car when I got it. It'll also get a full stainless 3" exhaust the whole way come spring with V band clamps instead of the 3 bolt flanges.

Lastly, I may try to make the car 100% emissions compliant since there is a chance I may move to California in a few years and I'd like to keep this car. So a 3" CARB legal cat is necessary, I will also attempt to swap over the EVAP system and see if I can run a single rear O2 sensor with a split return signal to the ECU since the original car had 2 rear o2 sensors. I'll make a splitter dongle and see what happens.
 
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