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So after working from 8-5 in the shop to coming home and working on the CC for the past 4 days, just to pull the motor... I know why this is a hefty service bill.. but THE ENGINE IS OUT and ready for chains. My friend who owns a VW tuner shop around the corner knows a place in Canada where I can get a custom head spacer . I think the engine might have to go back in with a turbo. Im pretty sure with bigger injectors and a modest tune I can push 440 without having to replace any moving parts. These engines are powerful under boost and don’t need much.




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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If you haven't pulled a VR6 in the platform you are working on the job can be a real bear. On the Passat/CC I have seen one person at the junkyard who would leave the transmission in the car and just pull the 3.6. I want to try this at the junkyard to test this technique to see if can shave a good amount of headache.
 

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If you haven't pulled a VR6 in the platform you are working on the job can be a real bear. On the Passat/CC I have seen one person at the junkyard who would leave the transmission in the car and just pull the 3.6. I want to try this at the junkyard to test this technique to see if can shave a good amount of headache.
This engine was a real pain in the ass to pull apart... not to mention ungodly heavy.. A 2 liter would never lol.


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If you haven't pulled a VR6 in the platform you are working on the job can be a real bear. On the Passat/CC I have seen one person at the junkyard who would leave the transmission in the car and just pull the 3.6. I want to try this at the junkyard to test this technique to see if can shave a good amount of headache.
Hey G60ing, should I removed the head and send it to be machined? I have the bare block on the hoist rn the chains should be here by Tuesday. I’m just wondering if i should stop being a ***** and pull the head! I did notice tons of carbon and I don’t want to hit only the intake side with cleaners and still have a bunch of carbon on the exhaust side. Or is there another way of getting the carbon off without head removal?


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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Better ask Paul. I'm torn on this subject. You can get the carbon out with a walnut blaster without having to pull the head.

The head is fairly complicated and I there is so many potential areas somebody could screw something up. Decking is good but it changes the timing, that said you are installing a spacer, that too will mess with the timing.

I can't help you other than say chose wisely.

If you were doing port injection the fuel would clean the carbon out.
 

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Better ask Paul. I'm torn on this subject. You can get the carbon out with a walnut blaster without having to pull the head.

The head is fairly complicated and I there is so many potential areas somebody could screw something up. Decking is good but it changes the timing, that said you are installing a spacer, that too will mess with the timing.

I can't help you other than say chose wisely.

If you were doing port injection the fuel would clean the carbon out.
I’ve removed a 2 liter fsi head many times, my trick is buying 5 different colors of nail polish to mark the teeth of things that are in time and take a picture. Only works if it was in time before plus I also have a copy of the Bentley manual. I’m just truly scared because this is my daily and I’ve never worked on a VR before... I’ve already gone 3 weeks without a car killing my pockets because me and gf have to carpool in this terrible Seattle traffic! I’m into the loan for 1 more year and I don’t want another loan. I’m at 154k miles bought last year at 89k Miles. I want to be able to get 250k out of this block and trans before I purchase a new daily! Idk who Paul is what’s his handle or username?


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Hi!

I have run a few different junkyard heads and motors and a few gallons of fuel port injected clean them right up. My current ports are shiny after just a day running methanol.

I would leave the head and media blast it. Dry ice works best but hard to rent. Lots of folks have walnut you can borrow.
 

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Hi!

I have run a few different junkyard heads and motors and a few gallons of fuel port injected clean them right up. My current ports are shiny after just a day running methanol.

I would leave the head and media blast it. Dry ice works best but hard to rent. Lots of folks have walnut you can borrow.
Walnut is great. Works like a charm!
 

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So one of the guides broke and the pic of the bentley manual I have is for a 2.8 completely different top ends.... I’m about to pack the engine up onto a truck and take it to a shop to get it put back in time... I’ve gone too long without my daily and carpooling is getting too expensive! Can someone shed some light on timing this engine!!


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So one of the guides broke and the pic of the bentley manual I have is for a 2.8 completely different top ends.... I’m about to pack the engine up onto a truck and take it to a shop to get it put back in time... I’ve gone too long without my daily and carpooling is getting too expensive! Can someone shed some light on timing this engine!!


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I just thought I’d add some photos since there are none! Got it all timed and just waiting for more parts like exhaust manifold studs, plastic coolant tubes... oh and locktite EVERYTHING! Not mentioned but should be!






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Also not mentioned the O-rings that are in the housing of where cam sensors sit need to be replaced. I took that cover off and found metal shavings. There are 6 of them @ $.86 a pop you have the engine out if it needs replacing.. replace it!


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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
careful on the oil pump, I believe (its been a little while) that there is a circle with an arrow that should be pointed to the 12 o'clock position.

Also less important but good to verify is the crank gear has an angled tooth that should point to the split seam of the main cap.

Did you lock the cams?

Did you lock the fuel pump? (looks correct)
 

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careful on the oil pump, I believe (its been a little while) that there is a circle with an arrow that should be pointed to the 12 o'clock position.

Also less important but good to verify is the crank gear has an angled tooth that should point to the split seam of the main cap.

Did you lock the cams?

Did you lock the fuel pump? (looks correct)
I had help from m buddy who is a VR6 master here in Seattle he just told me what to do from across the shop and I got it done everything is in position with the helpful notches hidden around the block. Btw look up BUG-AID if you ever wanna do a crazy VR swap golf or beetle they’ve got some crazy ****aki on the lifts lol from turbo VR CORADO to turbo VR golf 3!


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