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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Happy to see you continuously refine your build, fantastic work done here. This thread is practically the 3.6 swap bible and hopefully it helps others as much as it did me.
Thank you, what’s great is how over the past 5 years the swap has become more commonplace and the aftermarket support has grown. Just look at how TDC and United have figured out the worst part about the swap, the revhang and proven hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #405 ·
After Wookies my fan circuit cause my fuse box to erupt in flames






I had been planning to pull my engine harness and installing a TDC swap harness and use the new United no revhang tune and the gets to this weekend where one installing it. What fun, the new tune requires an RS4 fuel pump so I have to build a new pump, of coarse the tank was full when I parked it.



I’m ditching the wiper motor that I haven’t used in 4 years and installing the gigantic 3.6 ECU in this end of the raintray instead of under the battery. The two plugs are flipping huge and required a new hole.









I’m also installing a relay panel for the headlights, fogs, ac clutch and fans below the battery:



Notice how close that fire got to really getting out of control:


Here is what saved my car, an element fire extinguisher. The don’t use dry chemicals so the cleanup is minimal, this was recommended when I was considering mounting a 5lb chemical extinguisher.

 

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Discussion Starter · #406 ·
I have changed out my terminal tools and based on the first couple pins this morning I’m very happy with the results. The red terminal removal kit has multiple options for the most common sizes I end up using.

The iwiss crimp kit is a nice upgrade from my elcheapo crimpers. I’m not 100% on the ratcheting aspect and might disable this.

Considering I bought both for less than the price of the schwanban terminal removal kit I’m very happy.



IWISS Quick Change Ratcheting Crimper Tool Kit, Automotive Service Kit, for Crimping MC4 Connector, Insulated & Non-insulated Terminal, Open Barrel Terminals, Dupont Connector, End Sleeve Ferrules IWISS Quick Change Ratcheting Crimper Tool Kit, Automotive Service Kit, for Crimping MC4 Connector, Insulated & Non-insulated Terminal, Open Barrel Terminals, Dupont Connector, End Sleeve Ferrules - - Amazon.com
If you want the crumpet for less they have the same setup in a bag for a few dollars less. I splurged at $37


Supercrazy 23-Piece Universal Terminal Release Kit-Universal Electrical Terminal Removal for American Domestic and Imported Vehicles SF0287 Amazon.com: Supercrazy 23-Piece Universal Terminal Release Kit-Universal Electrical Terminal Removal for American Domestic and Imported Vehicles SF0287 : Automotive


I feel like I own digikey stock after restocking my terminal supplies for just about every terminal used on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #407 ·
The Fabless bar’s mk3 bottom mounts (they haven’t sold any top mounts yet ) are aluminum pins that rest in place without anything holding them in. After Wookies I found the pins barely in and I’m certain it’s only a matter of time before one comes dislodged.

I bought some slightly longer steel roll pins and had them welded in.


 

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Discussion Starter · #408 · (Edited)
So I’m using relays under the battery to control the fans high and low speeds (13” fan by itself for low, 13” and 9” for high)

I have used the G60 after run fan relay on my TDI and 3.6 with no issues but I have hated how it would cycle on and off so I’m adding a timer relay (Hella pn 5H3-996.152-131) where I can control the amount of time the fan runs after the thermal switch cools off. I’ve set it to approximately 2 minutes:





I’ve eliminated a number of relays because I’ve ditched things like windshield wipers front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #409 ·
Here is a my new RS4 fuel pump in a mk5 fuel pump housing. I had been using a B6 fuel pump but the United no revhang tune requires the RS4 fuel pump and the RS4 filter and regulator.

When I had a TDI sending unit in my tank I removed the bottom lock ring so that’s why I’m not using a corrado or mk3 fuel pump.

The B6/mk5 design keeps everything in place without a ring in the bottom of the tank.

I’m using the rs4 sending unity because it’s ohms range is about the same as the corrado’s

Corrado’s full is 38.4 and empty is .282
RS4 full is 46.7 and empty is .298

Beats the B6 being reverse and empty being 51.9 and full .289

With the B6 it would start out at empty on the gauge and rise. I never ran empty because I kept track of mileage and would fill up around 200miles but knowing my mpg was 22-28 depending on how I drove it I would sometimes push 300miles on the highway where The gauge would be around 1/3 tank.

It never bothered me but I’m certain some of you OCD people would freak out.

If you can handle that fuel tank gauge topic then I’ll tell you about the tach when I install the converter and cluster later this week. It might set your hair on fire if the gas gauge pings you













Notice the top part of the fuel pump gets ground down so it’s a smaller OD. Also the ID of the locking ring needs to be enlarged to fit the new fuel pumps.


The awd RS4 and B6 fuel pump has an extra line that needs plugging. Here is the plug I made initially for my B6 pump installed on my corrado.



To seal the fuel pump I have used an o-ring for a couple years without issue. Here is the part number,
I think it’s a 4.5” ID

 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
I checked my bins and didn’t have a fuel filter bracket I could find. So I made one for my RS4 fuel filter. Watch me find 2 corrado brackets next week in my bins.

Time to make two return lines.





Nice part is a mk5 filter to engine bay fuel line fits nicely. The mk5 tank lines are too short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #412 ·
Why is the rs4 pump needed, marginal flow from the b6 ones (though they work "fine" oem)
That’s what the spec was for the tune built for the hp numbers quoted, I know your thoughts on the numbers. I’ll visit NGP this next month.


This morning I made the fuel lines. I realized the RS4 input port is 3/8 where everything else I have is 5/16. Did some quick research and found autozone had a repair fitting that adapts from 3/8 Bundt to a 5/16” barb.






The process of installing the fittings takes a little practice but there are a couple key things.
-vise jaw pads
-deadblow hammer
-razor cutters for a flat cut
-utility knife to put a chamfer on the inside of the line. This is key to making them easy to assemble.





 

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Happy to see you didn't lose the whole car. Time to order that fire extinguisher...

I have been using a dakota digital tach converter signal pulling off the alternator for a few years now with no issues. Only downside is the light flywheel causes the RPMs to fall faster than the converter can keep up with :D

And those right angle bundy connectors are pain in the arse to install. I did it similar to your way except with notched blocks of 2x4 as the jaws. Those silicone(?) pads look like a far better option!
 

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Discussion Starter · #414 ·
Happy to see you didn't lose the whole car. Time to order that fire extinguisher...

I have been using a dakota digital tach converter signal pulling off the alternator for a few years now with no issues. Only downside is the light flywheel causes the RPMs to fall faster than the converter can keep up with :D

And those right angle bundy connectors are pain in the arse to install. I did it similar to your way except with notched blocks of 2x4 as the jaws. Those silicone(?) pads look like a far better option!
The vise jaw pads are about $10 on Amazon and come in handy a couple times a year.


I had a tach that worked proper but it was my TDI cluster so it only went up to 4500 RPMs or so. When the cluster died I swapped in a good VR cluster but didn’t bother with the tach. My ear and butt was pretty good at knowing when the RPMs were too high.

I have a Dakota tach interface with this new setup. Doesn’t really do me much good in the 6,500-8k range. That’s the fun zone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #415 ·
I went to install the fuel lines and found out that the world’s bundy 3/8” fuel fitting is different than Audi’s

After talking with Dave at TDC who put together the specs requiring an RS4 fuel filter I found out the autozone/advance auto fitting need massaging to fit. I removed the o-rings and then opened it up a hair. He also modified the clip because it doesn’t insert all the way to clip in. I decided to use a hitch pin cotter pin. It’s not ideal but I’m pushing to get this thing on the road.





I plan to circle back later on after I track down an RS4 line or a better fitting.



Audak 1 Pair 3 Inch Aluminum... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07426TY4S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


 

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Discussion Starter · #417 ·
On the fire from the relays, do you figure that was just from the additional draw from those particular fans?
Yes it was from the two fans pulling too many amps from the 30amp fuse. They don’t relay the g60 fans for the circuits that use the fan switch. They do for the ac fan control. Freaking nuts but hey I should have relayed it long ago. Now that’s happening this week.

Car started for the first time yesterday
 

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Discussion Starter · #418 ·
One size fits all engine swap harnesses are oh so much fun. That said it saved me a crapload of time. I’ve shorten the chassis harness by about 2-3’ in sections being mindful to avoid cutting O2 sensor signal wires.

The ECU is mounted and yesterday the car fired up for the first time. It was ready to fire up two days ago but it just wouldn’t and in hindsight I think it was just air in the fuel system, think about how a diesel doesn’t like to start when it hasn’t been bled.


Before taking about 18” of harness out of the raintray:



After, I may circle back and clean it up more but I’m working hard to get this reassembled by Saturday morning while also working my day job.


I tested all of the dash items and everything works and I even resolve some old issues that had been bugging. The dash will be ready to install tomorrow evening after I replace my battery wires. I ordered 8awg pos and ground cables from online because they were $5 each and I speced 5/16” holes for the battery end instead of 1/4”

It was cheaper to order new cables than to make these myself. I also ordered a new ground terminal to chassis ground. At $3-$5 it’s easier to buy them. Here is the site I ordered from: Quality Copper Battery Cables Made in the USA! - BatteryCablesUSA
 

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Yes it was from the two fans pulling too many amps from the 30amp fuse. They don’t relay the g60 fans for the circuits that use the fan switch. They do for the ac fan control. Freaking nuts but hey I should have relayed it long ago. Now that’s happening this week.

Car started for the first time yesterday
Thanks for sharing. I'll be doing a 3.6 into one of my Corrados or a MK2 and wanted to absorb any learnings you've experienced.
 

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Yes it was from the two fans pulling too many amps from the 30amp fuse. They don’t relay the g60 fans for the circuits that use the fan switch. They do for the ac fan control. Freaking nuts but hey I should have relayed it long ago. Now that’s happening this week.

Car started for the first time yesterday
SLC cars SHOULD be okay here since the fan control module helps to supply power and only a single fan is on the 30amp fuse.

My question is that if your fans were drawing more than 30A, why didn't the fuse pop?
 
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