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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDIT:
Ok...
Lots of changes to this thread from my original post on 8/16/2011 until exactly 3 years later!

But the this thread morphed into a few different things.

For those "new" viewers/users I'd like to give you a synopsis of events - as the title is a bit misleading:

I spun a bearing, that's why I started this thread. I replaced ALL the bearings without doing any other work. Just swapping bearings. Car ran from about 120,000 miles until 196,000 miles without any issues. I shouldn't say there weren't any issues...as the timing chains started making noise...and I can't recall exactly when - I estimate at about 110-125k miles.

In retrospect my best decision would have been to replace the timing chains, guides, rails, tensioners, etc. But I didn't. Noise never got *much* louder - it was pretty consistent.

At about 196,000 miles I started getting low oil pressure warnings at low rpms mostly.....Obviously something had to have been wrong. Started listening really closely to the engine and heard the unmistakable noise (from my prior experience) of a spun rod bearing. Assuming it's a spun bearing and I already "swapped" bearings in with no other work already I figured it was time for a new long block.

So, I take it out of commission - source a long block with 5,000 miles (reportedly) on it. This engine that I got was in pieces. Needed all new head studs, head gasket, water pump seal (dealer says only available with the pump - so new pump), and all sorts of other "one time use only" bolts and seals.

Bottom line,
Spun bearing at 120k
New engine at 196k.

What was the real problem with the engine at 196k? Well, doesn't appear to be a spun rod bearing. Found a chain rail/guide disintegrated (literally MISSING) and the pins holding the rail in place were worn more than 70% through by the chain. That metal noise was the chain riding on the guide pins (plenty of pics). The rail went to pieces and got sucked into the sump. Sump got clogged with broken plastic and produced a low oil pressure light. :banghead:

Enjoy the read! :)















EDIT: Pics added about 15 posts down....

And I'm almost positive it's due to the 3.6L dry start problem. Just happened today. The dry start problem/noise has gotten worse over the last couple of months. Now the sound I hear when I start the car in the AM is now constant at about 3800 RPMS and at low load.

EDIT: This problem was never due to a dry start issue.
Low oil plus aggressive driving I believe.


:banghead:

Now back to searching for a replacement motor. So far, the least expensive I've seen is 2k for a used engine with a possible blown headgasket. Awesome.
 

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And I'm almost positive it's due to the 3.6L dry start problem. Just happened today. The dry start problem/noise has gotten worse over the last couple of months. Now the sound I hear when I start the car in the AM is now constant at about 3800 RPMS and at low load.

Another problem for another motor. Another reason why I hate VW right now.

For those of you with this annoying "noise" upon cold starts each morning get it looked at before VW ruins another motor!

:banghead:

Now back to searching for a replacement motor. So far, the least expensive I've seen is 2k for a used engine with a possible blown headgasket. Awesome.
sucks to hear man, hope you get it all sorted. i am assuming you are well outside the warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sucks to hear man, hope you get it all sorted. i am assuming you are well outside the warranty?
Yes, at 120k and have changed my oil with full synth religiously at 5k miles. Obviously doesn't matter what quality of oil you have if you have a horribly designed 3.6L. This might be enough to finally push a diehard Vw fan over the edge for good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some people complain of a noise upon startup that sounds very much like the sound you get after you do an oil change... Where the oil filter is new and empty...where it takes a second to get to full oil pressure. Imagine this every time you start your car in the AM. I cringe every morning as I listen to it.
 

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And I'm almost positive it's due to the 3.6L dry start problem. Just happened today. The dry start problem/noise has gotten worse over the last couple of months. Now the sound I hear when I start the car in the AM is now constant at about 3800 RPMS and at low load.

Another problem for another motor. Another reason why I hate VW right now.

For those of you with this annoying "noise" upon cold starts each morning get it looked at before VW ruins another motor!

:banghead:

Now back to searching for a replacement motor. So far, the least expensive I've seen is 2k for a used engine with a possible blown headgasket. Awesome.
theres a crate engine 3.6l in b6 parts classifieds
 

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Some people complain of a noise upon startup that sounds very much like the sound you get after you do an oil change... Where the oil filter is new and empty...where it takes a second to get to full oil pressure. Imagine this every time you start your car in the AM. I cringe every morning as I listen to it.
and sadly, a software update shut off the low oil pressure warning light during cold start/crank.....gee I wonder why!?!?!

I also hate that sound......:mad:
 

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And I'm almost positive it's due to the 3.6L dry start problem. Just happened today. The dry start problem/noise has gotten worse over the last couple of months. Now the sound I hear when I start the car in the AM is now constant at about 3800 RPMS and at low load.

Another problem for another motor. Another reason why I hate VW right now.

For those of you with this annoying "noise" upon cold starts each morning get it looked at before VW ruins another motor!

:banghead:

Now back to searching for a replacement motor. So far, the least expensive I've seen is 2k for a used engine with a possible blown headgasket. Awesome.
What does the noise at start up sound like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any evidence! Seems like a lot of speculation!:screwy:
I'll put plenty of evidence up here when I pull the motor apart. I've been down this road before and am quite sure I know what's up.

And trust me, I hope I am incorrectly speculating! I'll be the first to admit it if that's what I find out.
 

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My engine makes a noise in the AM too, probably other times as well but can definately tell starting it in the garage, almost sounds like a grinding but also kind of electronic -- hard to describe. Lasts about a second or less, sometimes a little longer. I'm sort of under the impression that it's when the AC is on via the climate control, but now I don't know. Something under the hood clicks a couple times when I shut the engine off as well -- hear that in the garage too -- so just consider it another weird noise but otherwise doing its thing. I don't do my own oil chages so I wouldn't know that particular dry start sound, but I've only got 31k odo and am hoping it's all just normal...
 

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GL to you. Another reason I will not keep my 06 3.6L past the extended warranty.:banghead:
 

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I think I'm going to try replacing my rod bearings this weekend. I won't know for sure whether the bearing has spun completely or if it's just making noise until I remove the oil pan.
I'll update this thread when I get to work.
Nate - are you just going to replace the bearings and not machine the crank or rods????
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Ok so I took pics and will edit my first post. Looks like I caught it just in time. I actually spun bearings in 4 and 6! I'm still trying to discover how this happened. I HAVE used 10w-30 oil a few times and worry it was Tge cause.

first picture is just one of a new bearing next to one that just came out (of a "healthy" cylinder).
2nd picture is one of a "healthy" crank.
3rd picture is of the top part of the spun bearing cylinder...showing the "rod" (or top) side of the bearing pair. You'll see some scoring...I ran my fingers across it and felt nothing. Hopefully it's nothing serious that will effect the motor. guess time will tell huh? :)
4th picture is a new bearing versus a "healthy" old bearing. They look great.
5th picture shows cylinder 4 bearings (on bottom) that spun. As you can see it took all of that dark gray covering off and completely ruined the bearing.

When I went to put those crappy bearings back into the rod bearing cap that they came out of they wouldn't fit (not even close). They had completely changed size. Guess that's why I had some "silver paint" mixed in with my oil.

So...

I know I did this the cheap and quick way but my other option was to pull the motor and spend about 3-4k. This option cost my $300. I'll post back up on how it works when I torque it all down tomorrow and drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Cyl 4 crank. I see the "scoring" but running my finger over it nets nothing but a smooth feeling.
Oil filter caught most of the shavings. They were hard to see on the oil filter but zero were in the oil pan. I believe I lucked out. Least I think I did!
 

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