VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had a **** 2 days and i still cant figure out the issue. So yesterday decided to do a trans flush and dog bone inserts. Trans flush went like normal, cars gotta be level so put wood under the rear and jacked up the front (driveway has slight slope). Anyways that's how it was raised. Went to do dog bone inserts. Removal went fine, got the new inserts in, couldn't install it. The engine would not sway far enough forward for the 2 trans bolts to line up. Couldn't figure out why and kept trying to throw my purse at it. Welp, pushed it quick and hard. Heard a metal on metal tap. Well it comes to find out my 3" downpipe/primary o2 sensor was hitting subframe. Decided to undo my downpipe, and was able to get the dog bone in. When reinstalling the downpipe it was full in contact with my subframe, not like tapping it, i mean fully in contact. After messing with it for awhile I decided to put the old rubber back in the dog bone and deal with it another day. Well after removing the dog bone again, taking out the inserts and putting the old rubber in it still had the issue. Downpipe fully in contact with subframe. Tried to install everything fully, in which i ****ed up and stripped my o2 sensor threads. At that point it had been 2-3+ hours so i decided to deal with it the next day (today). When i began today I tried to thread the o2 sensor in my stock downpipe, which luckily, it did without an issue. So now either i need to repair my downpipe or buy another. But I'm still confused on how this happened. How could it be in contact with my subframe? It makes no sense, even if I bent some type of mount by prying I would've bent it the opposite way.

I've tried to think of every possible scenario.
-If I bent something, but I was prying the engine and downpipe away from each other, so if I did bend something the downpipe would've been hitting the top of the tunnel not the subframe.
-If the downpipe wasn't fully seated, but it was. I double checked that it was seated flat.
-The dog bone insert causing it. If it was then why did it still happen with the stock rubber?

I cant wrap my head around this, and the downpipe hasn't been contacting the subframe before as there is no marks on the downpipe indicating so.
Anyone got an idea?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Still having this issue, replaced top mounts. Stock dog bone vs upgrade dog bone, doesn't matter. Down pipe is completely in contact with subframe. I've resorted to trying to hammer the downpipe to bend more but that hasn't worked either. No info on this anywhere, best info I can find it people saying to upgrade a dog bone to prevent the engine rotating enough to have the downpipe contact the subframe. Mine is contacting when not running. There's no way I could've bent how the turbo mounts. The down pipe nuts thread on easily so the studs aren't bent as well. Top mounts, dog bone, turbo mount + studs are ruled out. What else could it be? Maybe I somehow bent the down pipe when removed the dog bone initially?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,066 Posts
I don't know what engine you have or how the downpipe mounts to your exhaust manifold.

Is the downpipe completely and corrected seated to (whatever it is mounted to)? Pictures.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't know what engine you have or how the downpipe mounts to your exhaust manifold.

Is the downpipe completely and corrected seated to (whatever it is mounted to)? Pictures.
Sorry should have clarified that, its a 1.8t and yes with it fully seated its completely resting on the subframe. I have bought another 3" down pipe to see if it bent when i removed the dog bone. I may have some pictures but theyre not going to be good. Let me look
 

· Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It seems I have 0 pictures. Ive replaced the upper 2 mounts (which now has turned into a big headache), and have bent the steering rack heat shield as far down as it can go. So in my mind, correct me if im wrong, theres no way i couldve bent the turbo studs (as they thread nicely), and theres no way the turbo couldve moved. So that just leaves the culprit being the down pipe.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
It seems I have 0 pictures. Ive replaced the upper 2 mounts (which now has turned into a big headache), and have bent the steering rack heat shield as far down as it can go. So in my mind, correct me if im wrong, theres no way i couldve bent the turbo studs (as they thread nicely), and theres no way the turbo couldve moved. So that just leaves the culprit being the down pipe.
I highly doubt you exerted enough force to bend the turbo studs and you would know if the turbo moved as there would be a huge exhaust leak. I'd say wait for the new DP and go from there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,066 Posts
Going back to your first post. You were pushing on the trans so that the bottom of the engine rotates towards the front of the car when putting in the replacement dogbone.

This is when the issue started.

You also said you went back to the original inserts and the problem was still there.

Perhaps the dogbone is not assembled properly (with the new inserts and when you reinstalled the old). This might be making it too long which will push the downpipe onto the subframe/steering rack.

How about a picture of the dogbone?

Steve
 

· Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Going back to your first post. You were pushing on the trans so that the bottom of the engine rotates towards the front of the car when putting in the replacement dogbone.

This is when the issue started.

You also said you went back to the original inserts and the problem was still there.

Perhaps the dogbone is not assembled properly (with the new inserts and when you reinstalled the old). This might be making it too long which will push the downpipe onto the subframe/steering rack.

How about a picture of the dogbone?

Steve
New mounts and a new downpipe. Still doesnt fit, im at a loss for what the issue is
Bicycle part Rim Gas Auto part Nickel

Automotive tire Bicycle part Grey Rim Synthetic rubber

Tire Automotive lighting Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Got a 2007 Golf City (Canadian market) with the standard 2.0L BEV auto.

Having trouble installing dogbone transmission mount.

Downpipe got bent and cracked and yanked the braided flex joint exhaust with it, which is just fantastic. Removed downpipe so that's out of the way and will be looking for cutter and welder for new piece (or working magic with clamps.)

I plan on doing all three mounts, but I want to start with the one that broke off completely. Trouble is, the holes aren't even close to lining up.

I have the front up on ramps for gravity to help and there's still so much resistance in it swinging back toward the frame mount.

I've included a picture to show the alignment with the bolts hand tightened in place on the transmission.

I used a jack underneath the transmission but it pretty much lifts the whole car when used.

What am I doing wrong? I'm trying to avoid getting preyed upon by opportunistic mechanics when it's clearly something simple and stupid that I'm failing to do.

Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Tread


Thanks.
 

· Registered
1999 Golf GTI 2.slow, 2000 Beetle GLS 2.slower, 2001 Golf GTI 1.8t
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
You might have trouble swinging the engine if the transmission is in park. Putting the car in neutral might be enough to get it to swing.

Otherwise, get the front of the vehicle up on jacks stands with the wheels free floating and put the car in neutral (make sure to set the parking brake).
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Well, let it be known that XDleader555 has saved the day and provided the crucial small detail to enable a successful install that was frustrating me to no end.

Yes, in fact, all I needed was to have it on ramps, but in neutral (with parking brake and wheels chocked for additional safety.) After that, everything was effortless. Thank you so much, sir. You deserve all the swagger.

People who contribute to forums in this way may not realize it, but even seemingly little stuff like this isn't just helpful, but alleviates so much aggravation as well as even more importantly prevents what would be inevitable financial predation from crooked and greedy mechanics trying to take advantage.

I wish for wonderful things to come your way and the positivity to continue and branch out to those you've helped.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Well, let it be known that XDleader555 has saved the day and provided the crucial small detail to enable a successful install that was frustrating me to no end.

Yes, in fact, all I needed was to have it on ramps, but in neutral (with parking brake and wheels chocked for additional safety.) After that, everything was effortless. Thank you so much, sir. You deserve all the swagger.

People who contribute to forums in this way may not realize it, but even seemingly little stuff like this isn't just helpful, but alleviates so much aggravation as well as even more importantly prevents what would be inevitable financial predation from crooked and greedy mechanics trying to take advantage.

I wish for wonderful things to come your way and the positivity to continue and branch out to those you've helped.
He helped me a ton as well when I was having issues with my GTI throwing codes for MAF and the O2's. I spent days researching what could be wrong and stumbled upon a thread on here that he commented in and just happened to look at his signature. I had already thrown a new ECU in the car after many people on FB (even "reputable tuners" saying my ECU was toast) as well as new O2's AND a new, complete O2 harness. Turned out to be that darn fuse 43. Big props to you @XDleader555!
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top