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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is a spring on the clutch that softens the kick back of the clutch. I suppose this makes the clutch pedal feel smoother. Lots of the GTI guys report removing the spring makes finding the engagement point easier, smoother shifts, smoother downshifts. I just removed my spring and I can tell you my car did not blow up. The clutch pedal did no feel heavy. I do notice the clutch kick back ramps up faster, which means you know when the clutch is about the catch.

This may all be placebo, but what I experienced was:

1. Clutch engagement may be smoother.
2. Shifts seem smoother. The quicker ramp up of the kick back of the clutch pedal changes the rhythm of the shift for the better.
3. Match rev downshifts... BUTTTER So butter I found myself saying "mmm mmm mmm" to myself as I went up and down the gears on the highway.

I don't see a reason why anyone wouldn't do this mod. No tools needed. Press clutch pedal down with right hand, use left hand to unhook spring on the left of the pedal. This mod is too easy not to do.

Hope you all find it useful.
 

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I'm definitely considering this after only having had my car for 18 hours. Compared to my Mk4 GTI, the clutch engagement is tougher to pinpoint, but everything is smoother when I get it right. I'm probably going to give it a couple of months to see if it starts to feel natural, but if not I'll at least pull the spring. The 6 year/72,000 warranty is something I'd rather not void, and I'm wondering if a modification this small would screw that up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The mod is 100% reversible. My advice is to listen to everyone else that's complained about the transmission and don't want a couple of months. Just do it and enjoy the car from 18 hours on. ;) If you're worried about your warranty, don't even tell us you did it. Just don't lose the spring. ;)

I'm definitely considering this after only having had my car for 18 hours. Compared to my Mk4 GTI, the clutch engagement is tougher to pinpoint, but everything is smoother when I get it right. I'm probably going to give it a couple of months to see if it starts to feel natural, but if not I'll at least pull the spring. The 6 year/72,000 warranty is something I'd rather not void, and I'm wondering if a modification this small would screw that up.
 

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I've owned my Alltrack 6MT since July 2017, and I thought the problem would just go away when I put in a new clutch or once I got used to it.

I stumbled on this thread while looking for other things :eek:, and immediately went outside to remove the stupid valve.

O

M

G

I can't believe I waited this long to do this. I've wasted a year trying to figure out how to drive the stupid thing smoothly.

I've driven MT cars all my life, but this is the first car I've driven that has this stupid "delay" valve. Such a waste of engineering effort.

If you already know how to really drive MT, DO IT. You will notice a positive difference.
 

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I've owned my Alltrack 6MT since July 2017, and I thought the problem would just go away when I put in a new clutch or once I got used to it.

I stumbled on this thread while looking for other things :eek:, and immediately went outside to remove the stupid valve.

O

M

G

I can't believe I waited this long to do this. I've wasted a year trying to figure out how to drive the stupid thing smoothly.

I've driven MT cars all my life, but this is the first car I've driven that has this stupid "delay" valve. Such a waste of engineering effort.

If you already know how to really drive MT, DO IT. You will notice a positive difference.
I’ve owned a 2017 GSW 5 spd manual for 1 1/2 years now and I still have not got around to the clutch delay valve. I need to do it.
 

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To be honest, I've been driving manuals since 1974, and haven't had any issues shifting either our 5-MT '17 GSW or my 6-MT '18 4MOTION GSW. Nor my previous '16 5-MT Golf hatch. So I'm hesitant to make the change.
I am hesitant as well. I have been driving manuals since 1987 myself. I have stalled my current car more than average ...about 30x more than average... I got used to it by now, but still seems as it wants to stall in most normal conditions. This car makes me feel like I’ve been driving manual for 30 minutes ......not 30 years.
 

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I am hesitant as well. I have been driving manuals since 1987 myself. I have stalled my current car more than average ...about 30x more than average... I got used to it by now, but still seems as it wants to stall in most normal conditions. This car makes me feel like I’ve been driving manual for 30 minutes ......not 30 years.
The clutch action on my 2016 R is not unusual and required no change in procedure.
 

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Don't be hesitant, I was really hating the clutch feels compared to my mk4 and since I have done the spring mod and the clutch delay valve delete it certainly feels like a real clutch should. There's no looking back!

My clutch would already be burnt off if I didn't removed those. I like to drive hard and before doing it I was getting strong clutch smell very often and since I did it, I haven't had a single clutch slipping.
 

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6mt or 5mt - doesn't matter GET RID OF THE FRIGGEN CDV!!!

It can make the car nearly undriveable in certain conditions. Stopped on a hill, fully loaded wagon = burn clutch or stall. CDV gone = problem solved.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8036450-5MT-(TSI)-clutch-delay-valve-(CDV)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8125994-DIY-Clutch-Delay-Valve-removal-on-TSI-5MTs

For clarification: the CDV (clutch delay valve) and spring mod are very different items. 5mt doesn't have spring, also. CDV will make a much larger difference and the removal is more involved, but totally worth it. Seriously. Do it.
 

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Why do they put the CDV in there in the first place? What good, if any, is it supposed to do? BTW - I totally agree about the clutch feel as it comes from the factory. I tried a 6M and decided against it largely on that basis - well, that plus the occasional massive, miles and hour long backups you can get stuck in here at times on I-66, which are bad enough with an automatic transmission but would be far worse with a manual.
 

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I was honestly planning to remove the orifice fitting in the clutch hydraulic line, just like the rest of you. It was on my list of things to "fix" for my Alltrack. I always had a hard time nailing shifts, especially slow and gentle shifts around town. I could not for the life of me time the clutch engagement, RPM, and throttle closing and opening correctly. I've driven manual transmission cars for 15 years, but this one just had me stumped. "Must be the clutch," I thought, "Those guys on the Vortex are always raving about that dang clutch line restriction."

Turns out, it was the THROTTLE the whole time, not the clutch.

VCDS:
44-Steering
Security code 19249
10-Adaptation
Switching Driving Profile
Current: "Incremental; controlled over time"
New: "Direct; controlled over threshold value"

After this, I no longer feel as though I need to make any clutch modifications. Also, it was free, took 30 seconds, and didn't require bleeding the clutch or brake system.

I'd recommend anyone considering removing the clutch line orifice fitting, but on the fence about making mechanical changes for whatever reason, to do this first.

Now if only I could reduce that crazy long RPM hang...
 

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I removed the spring and it made a substantial difference. Even my wife noticed the improvement in feel when she drove it.

I'm waiting for the weather to improve to do the CDV, I'm also doing the Home Depot clutch stop mod. Hopefully all these will produce a better clutch feel, so frustrated with the current vague setup.
 

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I dunno. On my 6-MT, all my shifts and launches are smooth as is. The 5-MT takes a bit more work because of the wide gap in ratios, but it is also possible.

I'm of the belief that you will get used to any manual transmission/clutch combo in due time. I once had to drive a big cube truck for a self-move, with a busted second gear synchro. I figured out how to double-clutch it smoothly in the first few km.

So I'm lukewarm to the idea of playing with my clutch setup.
 
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