VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
121 - 123 of 123 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Still had to pull pump but didn't have to disassemble everything else. Need to invest in a long 19mm ratchet wrench for the exclusive purpose of being able to turn the crank while looking straight down @ the marks. Before I would have pulled the alt + bracket to get to the lower IP bolt then be reaching down to the crank w/ 1 hand while trying to peer down into the bell. Couldn't find a good seal so taking a gamble on another lose advance. Doesn't really get cold enough here to use them anyway...MIGHT consider a delete using the advance spring-cover from a pump w/ bad bushing. No stem to worry about leaking.

Think I found my problem. It's something we've all been guilty of at some point. Constant repetition in a too short a time trying too hard resulting in frustration resulting in mistakes.

First the motor kept edging off TDC when working to put the belt back on so had to keep setting it back. Then the ready pump making the belt run over. Was certain I had it timed right but the fact the belt was overhanging was enough in itself to warrant removal. (NOTE: Tonight I went back to it & by putting lateral pressure towards what would be the engine-side on the shaft I could JUST see it flexing the seal...pump was PO victim of too-tight TB). On top of that was reinstalling the pump I was using after doing the advance seal only to discover the #1 line cracked...itself the main reason everything had to come back out in the 1st place since no way an advance seal was making the diesel-y mess the engine bay was on the way home. Then replacing the line only for it to run like @#$%. Hard starts...etc. Would think I'd remember by now what direction to turn the pump. SUPPOSED to turn it so when dial gauge is zeroed out & engine back at TDC & needle is less than 1mm...turn pump while needle turns clockwise until 1mm. SOMEHOW I was sitting on 0.6mm instead even though after the prior setting I did multiple checks to be sure. Seems not the case. You know you were frustrated when you can't find a tool you were using. Couldn't find my 12 x 13 mm S-wrench which had been indispensable when doing the IP bolts. Finally remembered the last place I used it was to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut on the alternator pivot. Guess I forgot & left it...then lost it somewhere between home & the local work yard 7mi away probably on Tues morning which was 1st time on road since the above mess.

This time all IS SET to 1mm. Used ratchet on crank w/ cheater extension so I could look straight down at marks instead of the normal lean over while arm is buried on the passenger side. Backed it off 2-3 times to be sure the gauge stopped @ 0 then went back to TDC to end spot on just a hair under 1mm. Reinstall lines. Key on & use the 17mm wrench in hand to jump starter for each injector in turn. Get in...cycle plugs...fires right off. No rough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,344 Posts
Hell yes nice work.

Yes an extra long ratcheting wrench 17mm\19mm is my go to tool working on these.

I also love the 10/13mm
And the 8/10mm.

Those 3 wrenches can do 80-90% of the bolts on an old vw

And yea the timing does fight you to roll off tdc on the pump.
If you do it enough you’ll learn to turn the crank back on tooth and time it one tooth the same direction so it slips right on-in time- with maximum adjustability for the pump.

We just got a 1.6td that was given up on because it wouldn’t run right. Timing tools all went on. But it didn’t allow adjustment within range. It was. Tooth off on the pump.

Don’t worry. Another 10-15 times and it’ll come natural like. ;p




Now turn the fuel screw up.
Don’t make me tell you again!


(Troll face)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #123 ·
After gets a chance to run & make SURE no other problems are present...sure will do the fuel screw. Though I suspect that dip tube//block seam is going to be the bane of this motor. It's more an annoyance issue anyway.

Use screw driver to hold the fuel screw while loosening the pinch nut. Turn in a fraction...ie 1/8th turn...for starters? If this motor can BEHAVE I still intend to retrofit the turbo. Just don't want to end up reaching the point of diminished return where I lose economy in exchange for pep.
As the project truck has lower priority than a certain 6x6 project...so no idea for sure when I will be able to get to it...might still put the TD in this truck & then use this motor to replace the tired one in my 84...just swap pump + bracket since the one in the 84 is a 56+ mpg pump if on an otherwise healthy motor.

One thing I'd like to have...is some CLEAR IMAGES of the gutted bare underside of a TD block. Have the harebrained idea of POSSIBLY (if it's even possible) adding DIY oil sprayers to a non-turbo engine. If the block architecture is effectively the same then perhaps some VERY careful drilling to access the appropriate oil passage then press in some sprayer tubes. If works it would make a good compromise...not as great as a factory TD (maybe?) but more tolerant of add-on turbo. THIS experiment would end up being initially done to the block I have w/ the repaired HB hole...to see if one is accessible...then pressurize the oil galleys just to see if the function of the sprayers could be achieved first.
 
121 - 123 of 123 Posts
Top