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67 Posts
Still had to pull pump but didn't have to disassemble everything else. Need to invest in a long 19mm ratchet wrench for the exclusive purpose of being able to turn the crank while looking straight down @ the marks. Before I would have pulled the alt + bracket to get to the lower IP bolt then be reaching down to the crank w/ 1 hand while trying to peer down into the bell. Couldn't find a good seal so taking a gamble on another lose advance. Doesn't really get cold enough here to use them anyway...MIGHT consider a delete using the advance spring-cover from a pump w/ bad bushing. No stem to worry about leaking.
Think I found my problem. It's something we've all been guilty of at some point. Constant repetition in a too short a time trying too hard resulting in frustration resulting in mistakes.
First the motor kept edging off TDC when working to put the belt back on so had to keep setting it back. Then the ready pump making the belt run over. Was certain I had it timed right but the fact the belt was overhanging was enough in itself to warrant removal. (NOTE: Tonight I went back to it & by putting lateral pressure towards what would be the engine-side on the shaft I could JUST see it flexing the seal...pump was PO victim of too-tight TB). On top of that was reinstalling the pump I was using after doing the advance seal only to discover the #1 line cracked...itself the main reason everything had to come back out in the 1st place since no way an advance seal was making the diesel-y mess the engine bay was on the way home. Then replacing the line only for it to run like @#$%. Hard starts...etc. Would think I'd remember by now what direction to turn the pump. SUPPOSED to turn it so when dial gauge is zeroed out & engine back at TDC & needle is less than 1mm...turn pump while needle turns clockwise until 1mm. SOMEHOW I was sitting on 0.6mm instead even though after the prior setting I did multiple checks to be sure. Seems not the case. You know you were frustrated when you can't find a tool you were using. Couldn't find my 12 x 13 mm S-wrench which had been indispensable when doing the IP bolts. Finally remembered the last place I used it was to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut on the alternator pivot. Guess I forgot & left it...then lost it somewhere between home & the local work yard 7mi away probably on Tues morning which was 1st time on road since the above mess.
This time all IS SET to 1mm. Used ratchet on crank w/ cheater extension so I could look straight down at marks instead of the normal lean over while arm is buried on the passenger side. Backed it off 2-3 times to be sure the gauge stopped @ 0 then went back to TDC to end spot on just a hair under 1mm. Reinstall lines. Key on & use the 17mm wrench in hand to jump starter for each injector in turn. Get in...cycle plugs...fires right off. No rough.
Think I found my problem. It's something we've all been guilty of at some point. Constant repetition in a too short a time trying too hard resulting in frustration resulting in mistakes.
First the motor kept edging off TDC when working to put the belt back on so had to keep setting it back. Then the ready pump making the belt run over. Was certain I had it timed right but the fact the belt was overhanging was enough in itself to warrant removal. (NOTE: Tonight I went back to it & by putting lateral pressure towards what would be the engine-side on the shaft I could JUST see it flexing the seal...pump was PO victim of too-tight TB). On top of that was reinstalling the pump I was using after doing the advance seal only to discover the #1 line cracked...itself the main reason everything had to come back out in the 1st place since no way an advance seal was making the diesel-y mess the engine bay was on the way home. Then replacing the line only for it to run like @#$%. Hard starts...etc. Would think I'd remember by now what direction to turn the pump. SUPPOSED to turn it so when dial gauge is zeroed out & engine back at TDC & needle is less than 1mm...turn pump while needle turns clockwise until 1mm. SOMEHOW I was sitting on 0.6mm instead even though after the prior setting I did multiple checks to be sure. Seems not the case. You know you were frustrated when you can't find a tool you were using. Couldn't find my 12 x 13 mm S-wrench which had been indispensable when doing the IP bolts. Finally remembered the last place I used it was to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut on the alternator pivot. Guess I forgot & left it...then lost it somewhere between home & the local work yard 7mi away probably on Tues morning which was 1st time on road since the above mess.
This time all IS SET to 1mm. Used ratchet on crank w/ cheater extension so I could look straight down at marks instead of the normal lean over while arm is buried on the passenger side. Backed it off 2-3 times to be sure the gauge stopped @ 0 then went back to TDC to end spot on just a hair under 1mm. Reinstall lines. Key on & use the 17mm wrench in hand to jump starter for each injector in turn. Get in...cycle plugs...fires right off. No rough.
