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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Quick tranny update:

Rear Main Seal - removed from engine with carrier, failed attempt at removing it from carrier, decided to order a replacement seal and carrier assembly and move on.

Oil Pan - removed from engine, cleaned gasket material from engine and prepped for reinstallation. My oil pan is little banged up, so if I find a replacement VW pan, I may go for it.

Clutch - replacement clutch received, trying to confirm my flywheel is still within spec.

Tranny - 4K prepped for reinstallation, i.e. bits and pieces from AON tranny have been transferred over.

As part of the effort, I learned my 'clutch pipe', i.e. the little pipe that's supposed to be attached to the clutch pedal cluster had broken off and was no longer proving the intended support for clutch cable. So, with a bit of finesse, I've managed to remove the clutch pedal cluster and now have to figure out the best way to repair/reattach the pipe extension. Work in progress.

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Floor Mats:

Ok, maybe a foolish idea but given the original mats have served their useful life, the idea was to try and replicate them along with transferring over the original heel pad. Initial progress has been made...outline templates and successful removal of original heel pad.

SAVE THE HEEL PAD

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Thank you for the recommendations.

The clutch pedal cluster’s pipe extension has been repaired. Alignment and function were confirmed before completing repair and adding reinforcement.

While I’m waiting for a few miscellaneous parts, decided to clean up and paint my fan shroud and brackets. Cheers.

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i had a clutch tube break on me while driving also
i was still able to shift gears jamming the pedal to the floor atleast

my fix was some electrial parts:
2x 1/2inch -> 3/4 reducing washers
1x 1/2inch threaded chase nipple (safe search)
1x 1/2inch threaded nut


put all that on the outside of the firewall on the cable
1/2inch is a perfect sleeve on the cable
the reducing washers increase the surface area touching the firewall.


of course if you can just simply remove the steering + clutch tube to weld it better then just do that lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Another tranny update:

Rear main seal - seal and carrier assembly were installed but not without an 'oh isht'' moment. Put a little never-seize on the threads, hand started screws, set torque value and criss-crossed may way around assembly. I had one screw location reach the torque setting but the others were lagging. Another half turn on one and POP...no tension. Ugh...now I need to figure out how to get this out of my block?!?

I slowly backed out the failed screw and somehow...i don't know how...the entire screw came out. Purchased a set of replacement screws and installed by feel without issue. It's possible I weakened these screws during removal and didn't know it. It's also possible my torque wrench isn't well calibrated at the lower settings. May have been a combination of things. I'll likely lean toward replacing hardware during future projects.

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Oil Pan - new gasket and pan are installed...probably should have replaced the hardware!

Clutch - new clutch is installed...hardware was replaced.

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Tranny - hoping to install next weekend.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Request. If someone has access to and is willing to share the VW Part # for the 'hub with flange' item that's used to support the pully halves and retaining disk shown in the attached photo and diagram, kindly share. This would be for a 84 Rabbit GTI with A/C. Thank you.

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Jag when you installed the flywheel did you do anything special line up the timing marks on the flywheel?
For reference, I installed a SACHS clutch and OE flywheel.

From what I could tell, the pressure plate will only install one way given the bolt pattern at end of crankshaft. And my flywheel would only install one way given the dowel pins and bolt pattern. Similar to the pressure plate I removed (LUK?), the replacement pressure plate (SACHS) has two slotted holes to accept the flywheel dowels. It's my understanding these features keep the assembly properly oriented to the crankshaft.

Photo of removed pressure plate (and friction disk) with arrows to slotted holes (for flywheel dowels).

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If I had purchased a new flywheel, I would have needed to compare it with existing flywheel and make sure all markings and features matched.

Hope that helps.
 

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It does help thanks and good to know it should be idiot proof when I get to mine. I swear I read somewhere it was not but it's been literally decades since I installed a Mk1 clutch and reading your thread prompted me to ask. I did a complete new clutch on a Mk2 Gti flip 20 years ago and found out after the fact that my flywheel marks were off because I may have missed a step. Clutch and car worked great so I left at as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
On schedule for tranny install tomorrow…psyched.

Fan shroud paint complete and clutch cluster bracket ready for install.

Time for a little sip of something.

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I think we're good...at least for the time being. Brief recap:

AON has been replaced with 4K (matches or, at a minimum, best complements original equipment)
New SACHS clutch with original Flywheel
New VW rear main seal with carrier
Repaired (and reinforced) clutch cluster pipe extension
Completely cleaned, primed and painted radiator fan shroud
New Bosch starter (model correct to match original equipment)
New Napa battery (model correct to match original equipment)
New engine mounts (replaced 3 out of 4, passenger side will be replaced at some point in the future when convenient)
New VW oil pan and gasket (just because)
New Continental alternator belt (this was a bit of a pita...I'm fine with the car having A/C but it would be far more maintenance friendly if it didn't)

Initial start up...she fired, puttered and stalled...second attempt, solid...it's probably been 6 to 7 weeks. Took her for a short spin this evening and she feels great. I noticed reverse had a little...very little...engagement grind. Not sure if that's inherent in the tranny or if I need to make a clutch pedal adjustment. As far as 1st thru 5th...all good. Clutch feels great, catches nice and engages smooth.

Fingers crossed that all my gaskets and seals do what they're supposed to.

Was very happy to get fluids back in, misc. items buttoned back up and see her out of the garage.

One item that didn't check out was my reverse lights...I had transferred my switch over and connected my plug...so I'll need to investigate this further. Hopefully it's something minor.

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Nice job!

Ref reverse lights: it's usually the switch, so start with a continuity check there while reverse gear is engaged. The pins wear out and sadly, new switches aren't very good.

I took my OEM switch apart and swapped in the pins from the upshift feature (absent on all GTIs AFAIK); they weren't worn at all for some reason (those pins lockout the upshift light when 5th is engaged so you don't get the light and think you're supposed to shift into 6th lol)
 
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