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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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you can also verify that the reverse switch has 12v (ign switch "on", doesnt need to be running)
then jumper 12v to the reverse pin to make sure the lamps work and wire is all good

im sure you can just clean the switch itself unless its damaged...
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Nice job!

Ref reverse lights: it's usually the switch, so start with a continuity check there while reverse gear is engaged. The pins wear out and sadly, new switches aren't very good.

I took my OEM switch apart and swapped in the pins from the upshift feature (absent on all GTIs AFAIK); they weren't worn at all for some reason (those pins lockout the upshift light when 5th is engaged so you don't get the light and think you're supposed to shift into 6th lol)
How did you manage swapping the pins? As you can see in the photo(s) below, my reverse pin is smoked, but my upshift pin looks good. Would be nice if I could manage to refresh this original switch. Thx.

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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knowing where the resources are is invaluable to the DIY

if youve taken it apart, compared notes, and tested to determine its damaged beyond repair
then hey.... time to start sourcing used parts (or hope there are "new" replacements, that might be very unlikely)


i would generally say the amperage on that switch can cause the failure
relaying the wiring so the relay passes the amps would probally save your switch next time.
when switches toggle on and off they cause a large enough spark to damage the surrounding plastic
and will eventually damage the metal contacts.
thats what destroyed my 81's HVAC blower switch after 30 years. it simply wore out from the Arcing.
 

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I thought I would share in the journey. If you already have the CIS book, hopefully someone else can find it here. View attachment CIS-Injection.pdf

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
IIRC they just pull out? It's been a while since I did the fix...
Good memory...they do pop out...pin, spring and retaining push cap. I had a 50/50 shot on which direction...got it right on the second try. Swapped the pins, cleaned the bars, tested prior to install and then after install and we're good! Thank you. (P/N 171919823)

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Next up is taking a step at addressing my small fuel leak. Basically, I have a stronger than normal fuel odor coming from my passenger rear area. From underneath the car, it's clear there's a moist area at the passenger side of the fuel tank and its origin somewhere above that. I'm also noticing that the connection between the flexible hose return line and tank is moist...so I'm hoping it has something to do with this hose and not the tank. This may be wishful thinking.

My plan is to run the tank near empty, jack the rear passenger corner, remove the fuel pump & cradle, gain access to this flexible hose return line and replace it. I'm hoping with the tank near empty and the rear passenger corner raised, there will be minimal fuel running out of the return line and pump supply point...tbd. I've got some plugs that will be introduced regardless.

Since I'm removing the fuel pump, I've ordered a spare as well as replacement crush washers, supply hose and associated clamps. Regarding the fuel pump, I ordered one from autohausaz. It's listed as a Bosch (OEM) but is considerably cheaper than the Bosch noted under mk1autohaus (not in stock) and partsplaceinc (in stock). Am I missing something?

First photo shows moist area on passenger side of tank near fuel pump.

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Second photo hints that the fuel leak may be originating higher up and there's an arrow pointing to flexible hose return line (dry end).

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Third photo highlights the ends of the flexible hose return line (tank end shows moisture).

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Fuel Leak Update - Ended up removing my fuel pump, replacing the flexible hose return line, swapping out what seemed to be the original fuel pump (still worked, just being proactive) with a replacement Bosch unit and replacing the fuel pump supply hose. Other than making a little mess, the effort went reasonably smooth. Few things noted:

- Similar to what ToddA1 mentioned recently, the replacement fuel pump main body was smaller in diameter...so I too left the black accordion-like surrounding on to fit better within the foam casing.

- Bentley calls for the union to be torqued to 7.5 ft-lbs. I took rabbitnothopper's advice, picked up an inch-pound torque wrench, dialed that bad-boy up to 90 in-lbs and took care of business. However, I question this value...seems light...and will be keeping an eye on that connection to confirm it doesn't loosen up.

My guess is I'm not out of the woods just yet, but hopefully a step closer.

Floor Mats Update - Home made mats are one step further along. The carpet and backing will be glued and then piping (same color as seat vinyl) stitched around the perimeter. And the only reason for going through this effort is to save the original heel pad...ridiculous!

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
I generally place a piece of cardboard under the engine when parked to let me know if there's any funny business going on. Post tranny work I seemed to be in the clear...but with more frequent use, I started getting some oil drips. My first thought was...please don't be related to the work I recently finished. As it turns out, there was some oil on top of the intake manifold as well as running down the back-side of the engine and eventually dripping off one of the engine block corners. It was suggested I replace the valve cover gasket and see where that take things.

I ended up replacing the existing cork style gasket with the rubber style. I made a few rookie mistakes along the way but ultimately things went well. Attached are a few shots showing the existing gasket removed, mating surface prepped, new studs and rubber gasket installed and the cover buttoned back up. Hoping for stain free cardboard.

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
How do you sand the mating surface without getting swarf into the head?
Where I did introduce a little rubbing action, it was with extreme care so as not to introduce any contamination into the head. I had used a little motor oil as a lubricant and guarded the interior of the head with a clean rag. Maybe better practice would have been to leave some cork residue on the mating surface...I chose to remove it very carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Fuel Leak Update: I'm still getting weeping from what appears to be the return line hose connection to tank (the hose I recently replaced). Attaching a few photos that hopefully tell the story.

1st photo - return line nipple area before installing hose
2nd photo - return line hose installed
3rd photo - return line hose connection with fuel drip on clamp and fuel weeping down tank
4th photo - return line hose connection close-up showing moisture and end of hose

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The return line hose clamp is more than sufficiently tightened...so I'm thinking there's an issue between the nipple extension and tank. Curious if anyone has experienced a similar issue, if there's a repair option or if I should be thinking tank replacement. Thanks.
 

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Although I've never touched this section on my car to my eye the hose you installed looks slightly larger than it should be in the last set of pics? The clamp should have taken care of it but maybe there is an imperfection in the hose or metal fuel line?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Although I've never touched this section on my car to my eye the hose you installed looks slightly larger than it should be in the last set of pics? The clamp should have taken care of it but maybe there is an imperfection in the hose or metal fuel line?
Thanks for the input. I recall comparing the original and replacement hoses and considering them the same...but will keep this in mind moving forward. I'm thinking there's a minor flaw at the tanks return line 'nipple' connection. I'll likely wait another month or two and then commit to removing the tank. At that point I'll be able to decide if the tank can be repaired or needs to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
This time last year I had won this car on auction. Being the winning bidder, you're emailed the sellers contact information to take steps toward completing the sale. Initial contact was a phone call...and then mostly texts. We had agreed that once I had a bill of sale and a copy of the title, I'd wire the money to his account and then arrange for transport. I'd never wired money before...definitely not to a stranger...at an amount that would make an impact...so, it wasn't a very comfortable feeling. Nevertheless, I took steps in this direction but failed...as it turned out, the information provided to me was incorrect. No longer feeling comfortable with this method of payment, I called the seller back and told him I'd prefer to draw a certified check and deposit it into his bank account at a branch local to me (pretty sure you can do that). Thought being I'd have a record, i.e. better traceability.

That night, I received a call from a coworker asking if I could travel out to CA within a day or two to take care of some business not too far from San Francisco. Committing to the job, I then realized this car may not be too far from where I was headed, opening up another possibility to complete this transaction. As it turned out the Seller was a stone throw from SFO...where I was headed...so I rang him back and said I can do one better. I'll see you tomorrow night in person...I'd like to put eyes on the car, hand you over a certified check and leave with the title. Not a problem he responded...and that's how the transaction was completed.

He was nice enough to keep the car garaged for the remainder of the week until the transporter arrived. The car happened to be delivered on my birthday (pure coincidence) and has a 09/83 manufactured date. She's officially 38 years old...and I'm a bit older than that.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Over this past year I've also tackled a bunch minor items...each making the car more complete and offering a sense of satisfaction once fixed. Several I recall...

  • Antenna (delivered broken...sourced an original replacement, installed and brought the radio back to life...I generally leave the actual antenna off for convenience)
  • Driver Side Window (delivered broken...disassembled, refurbished channel, realigned, re-lubed regulator, re-installed with new guide seals...and now it works!)
  • Front Speakers (delivered broken...ok, they were just old and kaput...sourced new ones that fit and re-lined covers with new speaker fabric)
  • Accelerator Bushing (non-existent...installed a new one)
  • Heater Cable (intact but disconnected from heater switch...lubricated, reinstalled and now functional)
  • Center Vent (removed, cleaned and new 'soft parts' added so the vents actually stay put once positioned)
  • Center Console (replaced with a slightly better one...still plan to refurbish the original)
  • Front Wipers (placement and connection corrected)
  • Front Wiper Spray (pump motor and spray nozzle direction corrected...first spray was over the roof onto my garage door, which was awesome...nozzle direction was then corrected)
  • Glove Box Latch (cracked latch was repaired and reinforced)

With the exception of the drivers seat seatbelt receiver and adjustment knob, the front of the cabin is essentially complete. The back still needs some work...

Current status:

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