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Discussion Starter · #141 · (Edited)
The head has been reconditioned, all modifications complete.
Lots of fine sludge must be washed away, including the inner channels.
There was a frost plug on the side by the tensioner bolt, 24mm.
This was removed, and the entire head cleansed, dried. New plug installed with aircraft sealer.
The valvetrain has been installed with the new stem seals, after springs were checked.
Lifters and shims in, only 3 shims needed to be replaced to be within spec.
The insides of this GTI are cherry compared to the high mileage Convertible engine.


There is a good write up on adjusting valve lash here...
http://www.driversfound.com/scirocco/techtips/engine/valveadjustment/


The pistons were all turned to the middle, to ensure valves and pistons do not collide.
Notice on the head the lifters of 1 and 4 are mostly up, valves seated.
Next step was to torque the head bolts down.
This was done in 4 stages, first (in sequence) to one torque setting, then the next.
Then they required one half turn past that, breaker bar, done in (two) one quarter increments.


The next logical step was to tackle the timing.
This proved to be quite a challenge.
The dot on the intermediate sprocket is visible in the crank pulley notch.
Hold that while checking the dimple on cam side of the cam sprocket is level with the top plate.
After tensioning the roller, you can manually turn the crank for a few loops of the belt.
It should line up time and time again if you got it right, if not start again.


WARNING! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS!
That little blue arrow above points to the crankshaft bolt that must be torqued to 148 ft/lbs!
So how do you torque down a bolt to something that spins?
The thick nylon strap broke as it tensioned the crankshaft sprocket for torquing.
What now? You could get a steel bar and drill 5 holes in it then bolt it on with throwout bolts.
Or, you could get some nylon rope, feed it down the spark plug hole so it lines the cylinder walls, make triple sure no other valves will possibly hit a piston, and torque away.
Leave enough hanging out so you do not lose it inside.

After a pause, :p the oil controller goes in, the injector cups installed with Locktite.

Now the fun stuff. Intake manifold and header time. New studs and locking copper nuts.
Stainless steel for the intake manifold.

There needed to be a solution for header to block support, and the solution is tacked in place.
The two bolts to the block were in the same condition, originally. The left one was cleaned.
Those were originally the bolts for the front motor mount of the GTI!

This was a very good solution, very strong. One of the block bolt holes needed to be tapped.
It was welded up and trimmed, awaiting a sandblast, prime and paint. Knorrigend!

This front motor mount was an extremely tight fit, even with the super grease supplied.
It ended up needing to be pressed in, not easy with no good surface to push on.


 

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Discussion Starter · #142 · (Edited)
The engine is in the car! January 1, 2011! It is going to be a great year...

The car had been jacked up, and the engine slid underneath.
The chain used to hoist was previously balanced to the engine and block, helps to plan ahead.
Now the hoist is reattached to the installed chain, and the engine is pulled up into place.
As the engine raises, the CV joints had to be moved around the header, with a twist of the chain.
The rear transmission mount required the mounting bracket of the car to be unbolted.
Made the job a lot easier.
The new oxygen sensor (blue arrow) was carefully installed, it already had Never Seize on the threads.
Never get that on the sensor or it will not operate.
The yellow arrow is the electrical spade terminal for the sensor. Green wire going to ECU.

The new auxiliary air valve is ready, as well as the refreshed pipes and battery clamp.
 

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Timing belt installing: must lock down the crank from rotating or go crazy.
Intermediate shaft mark doesn't have to be lined up, but after distributor installed is then a good general check. I have heard of people forgetting that crank rotates twice the rate of distributor, not checking the front pulley marks and installing the distributor exactly 360 degrees off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 · (Edited)
K.I.S.S.The main killer of projects is someone who thinks too much while trying to re-invent the wheel. Attempting to convert a TPS into two separate throttle switches is a pointless endeavor, considering you can get the TB you need from about 10 million Rabbits/Golfs/Jettas/Cabbies/Foxes/Audis/etc.
This throttle body was one of very few I saw on my lengthy searches that had the correct pull.
I did not want to re-use my trigger due to it being very worn out.
Many use a swing bracket to correctly pull the TB valves open.
Many I came across Pulled the other way due to the arrangement of the engine bay.
Nice throttle bodies are not readily available in my area. An Ebay search provided little.
Little except the one I obtained. I needed help to make it happen.
I was very fortunate to have someone understand where I was going with it.
A can do attitude and some skills make things work, ending up with a very nice result.
Since the trigger pin was missing, one had to be made. UHMW is a good material for that.
So some was taken off the bar, and turned on a lathe, then drilled for a bolt.

The end result is wonderful. It was hooked up to a test light to fine tune the trigger at WOT.
The o ring had to be replaced, it was hard and crushed. Viton seals. High temperature.
The side was drilled and tapped, the bracket installed, and the height adjusted.
The pin arm on this one is higher than the original. Notice the AFR screw is shorter, too.

I used the stubby bolt with the notch (came with the BBTB) and put a new o ring on.

Open wide...

 

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Discussion Starter · #145 · (Edited)
Here is a shot underneath the car as I was going in to mount the header brace.
The wires with the ring loops on the end are grounds for the Lambda.
They were originally mounted to the cold start valve bolt, but I decided to mount them to an accessory bolt hole at the back of the block.
I figured they would have a better engine ground there, it sticks far out enough to cool off.
The female terminal is accesible from the engine bay for probing.

The driver side inner CV joint boot had been ruptured, flinging grease everywhere.
I dug out the snow, found the GTI, and got a good boot. The c clip was hard to remove.
Since the boot had ruptured, there was sand and grit in the grease. It was serviced.
Removed, cleaned, inspected and miraculously in great condition! Fresh grease, new boot.
The header brace turned out great, and performs its function very well.
The curve in it gives clearance for the CV joint and boot, and allows a ratchet access to the bolt.

Soon I will hear the engine roar to life, I am eager to experience the changes that were made.
I will play with the electrical to run the wires as neat as possible, keep them bundled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 · (Edited)
There have been some major issues along the way with this car, some caused by me.
Some issues were misinformation from the internet causing delays due to bad advice.
I had to adjust the shift rod 18 times to have the gates lined up to get every gear.
I could have ripped the car to shreds with my bare hands I was so frustrated.
Like last night as I was replacing the cylinder head studs with shoulderless versions.
This was done so I could enjoy the peace of mind a rubber one piece valve cover gasket allows.
The very last stud was having trouble going in, so I chased the threads with a bolt.
Then the bolt dropped inside the engine. It was so late I was so tired I almost puked.
With no magnet that would fit down the tube, I left it for the night, not sure if it would be OK.
Images of the bolt chewing the crankshaft and rods to shreds haunted my dreams.
In the morning, I tried to fish it out of the oil pan with a wire, but I could not find it.
I thought I would have to tear the car apart for ONE BOLT! I was close to madness...
Then, I thought if I looked in the distributor opening I may be able to see it, and behold!
A magnet carefully fished it out. I thought for sure it was lost deep in the oil passages.

Well, the next thing I know I had rebuilt the fuel meter, and was ready to jump the fuel pump.
The stupid Bentley has no clear instructions for this process, it bounced around chapters.
I removed the power line from the alternator, and accidentally grounded it to the alt body.
Sparks were flying and I welded a spot there with it. Not sure if I wrecked the diodes.
It seems to be OK, I just grounded the power line. Worst case scenario I swap out the regulator.
My confidence was deflating, I had been feeling very sure of my abilities before yesterday.

Update: The alternator charges fine, current just grounded out through the housing to block.
So the jumper worked, and even though I could hear the pump working, no gas up front.
The old horrible fuel pump was encrusted in decay, I threw it away.
Turns out it was an aftermarket Airtex pump, installed long ago, only capable 0f 20 psi.

I know it was an Airtex pump because it had all of the same bits and pieces as this new kit.
There was the same threaded connector coming off the back of the old one on the car.
It even had that extra foam to make up the diameter of the pump to fit in the pump carrier.

The Bosch unit I bought and used is much more powerful, more pressure and higher flow rate.
The new pump went in, I had to change some of the fittings.
This area had been patched up like the Mexico US border.
Good and tight at the fittings, but the perimeter? Something's going to make it's way through.
I still have to secure the mount for the fuel pump to the car, but fuel now speeds to the front.
I bled the fuel system by removing the old injectors and placing the fuel lines into a jug.
I removed the fuel pump relay, and used an 8 gauge wire with spade ends to jump the pump.
With the fuel pump now operating, I lifted the airflow sensor plate with a magnet.
No matter how careful I was, fuel got everywhere. There should be no vapor lock this way.

The new injectors were tightened to the lines, and the new green Viton seals were slid on.
They had been soaking in gas for a while. The injectors were then put in the cups on the head.
What a horrible , almost impossible job it is getting the injectors with new seals in the cups.
The distributor rotor was lined up with the mark on the distributor body, and installed.
Spark plugs in, wires on, oil system had been primed by a hand drill with a bit on the oil pump.
The moment was here, it will fire or it will not, there is no more time, no more help, that's it.

IT ROARED TO LIFE!, and with no cat or exhaust on, the header was LOUD!
It sounded like some of the hot rods that roll out of here! In true VW style, 4 banger...
I have never experienced such an easy start from this car.
The thing that amazes me is I could move right away without bogging. WOW.
In the morning, the car will get further tuned to get the mix right and see how it drives then.
This car has not started for 6 months, almost exactly. A bicycle and a borrowed car helped tons.
I am sore, tired, greasy, smelly, cut, fumed, and the chemicals have left me raw.
But does it ever feel good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 · (Edited)
so fresh and so clean:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Thanks! It really turned out to be a major project.
The best part will be taking it out into the crazy ass winter and get it filthy!
It has had an exhaust transplant, and still needs some work, it needs a glass pack.
I got the cheapest muffler I could find ($42) I will need to save for a quieter version.

I also need to figure out exhaust hangers, and get some Dynamat for noise.
Of course, there is a lot of vibration in the dash, it is old and flabby.
It is my next project, for the spring, a custom dash. I will use Bird's Eye Maple inlay.
I will shape the dash and stretch leather over it, like I saw them build for Ferrari on a show I saw.
Door panels, too. Erhaben sein über!
 

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Congratulations!
I thought removing those injectors with the rock hard o-rings was the hard part. I had to soak them in silicone spray and pry them out using a jam nut threaded onto the injector.

Just 6 months - I have a used head almost ready to install I bought in 2008.
 

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Wow that is awesome bro, I definetly know how you feel after a project like that. Ive never done a full motor restoration, but I am in the process of doing so. Check out my build thread in my sig. I just got the head about done and now its the blocks turn.

I just basically read all 5 pages of your build and I gotta say you definetly did a super great job on this build.:thumbup::thumbup:

You should take some video of the motor running and post it up. That would be cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 · (Edited)
Love your GTI, tear it down and build it up! The only way to ensure Zuverlässigkeit!

I really wanted to take the time to thank those people who have helped me along the way.
The Bentley manual is great for stock, things change when you use different parts.
Your experience has proved invaluable, you know who you are. Thank you!

It has been a little frustrating working with an obsolete fuel system, parts hard to acquire.
Perseverance really pays off, I have pieced together the pieces I required.
Bad news; I really need to pay for a speeding ticket that was almost forgotten.
You have to pay all your outstanding tickets in B.C. before you can buy insurance.
Even more interesting, if you are caught going 40KM/h over the speed limit, they seize your car!
Brand new rules for a brand new world. Went into effect just as I was finishing the engine...

I will be posting some video soon, after I am insured, I promise.
I need to tweak the CIS with an exhaust gas analyzer and a fuel pressure gauge.
In order to do that, I will likely buy the CIS analyzer (fuel pressure) or build it.
Driving is required to go to the exhaust gas analyzer, far from here. Need insurance.
So my system is in need of tweaking, I had removed the idle screw for a new o ring.
Putting it back in, I have no idea where it sits for good idle, and with the O2 sensor compensating with the frequency valve, it is tricky. First, the throttle body must be set up.
There are set screws positioning the throttle valves properly on the top of the throttle body.
The cable then must be adjusted, then get the car hot enough to have the fan run twice.

After searching for a comprehensive process to set the fuel mixture CO, here it is, in a pinch.

http://merlyyn.com/tech/
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 · (Edited)
It has been nice to take a break from this car project for a little while, life takes over.
There has been an alarming amount of snow, mixed with rain that makes for dangerous roads.
I have noticed a large change in this car; it may not be good for the winter anymore.
It seems with more power and close ratio transmission, it slips a lot, wants to spin out.
When the snow and ice are replaced with green grass once more, this car will be so much fun!
In the great rush to finish the car before the machinist left to seek his fortune, I missed a step.
Thankfully, he was back for a visit today and he brought his timing light. The car was timing out.
I fashioned a 27mm hex out of a chunk of Oak, and removed the timing bung on the bellhousing.
Power from the alternator, ground to the block, and an induction clamp around plug wire 1.
It turns out the distributor was out 15 degrees. Loosen the bolt, twist, check, tighten.
Now the engine not only starts right up, but stays running! Wooo Hooo!
I tightened the idle screw too much when I first put it in, I will have to drill an access hole.
There is just no room for my giant hands to reach it as it sits now. No gription.
(The raintray divider is in the way, I will plug the access hole with a rubber grommet after).
The warm up system works fabulously, thermo time function is great!
I think I am running a little rich, it will be dialed in soon.
The battery light still comes on during warm up, then turns off as the alternator charges it.
Electricity is still draining from the burnt wires under the dash, will address it soon.
When I install the new dash this spring I will have complete access to the wiring.
Everything else seems to work well, it will not be long before I can get it on the road.
I know a special section of road I would like you all to witness this car devour.
Rickety sections of old rock faced roads hugging a precarious cliff that drops off 500 feet into the jagged depths of a lake so deep you may actually see the Loch Ness monster!
:pic:
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 · (Edited)
Thanks!
I hope this will be helpful when you decide the time is right to fix your Cabby!
This is proof that if a person is determined and decides to make a dream a reality you can.
Many times I was faced with a task with which I had no experience to guide me.
We can prepare by learning everything there is to know on the subject, and try to understand.
There is no education like getting your hands dirty. No book or online tutorial can equal.
Often the only way to comprehend what the book was trying to explain was by looking at parts.
It only made sense when I could actuate a lever and see the movement.
Pre-reading the book prepared me for the unexpected, potential problems averted.

As far as costs, if you are willing to shop around, you can really save a ton of cash.
I actually saved way over a thousand dollars compared to some of the pricing elsewhere.

Used 1984 Rabbit Convertible.........................$ 50
Used 1983 Rabbit GTI....................................$500 value or work trade
Used windshield.............................................$ 20
New Windshield seal.......................................$ 32
Used Audi 5000? throttle body.........................$139
Remanufactured in Germany AL27X alternator..$ 99
Optima battery..............................................$152
Bosch distributor............................................$ 99
Bosch control pressure regulator/WUR.............$ 75
Bosch fuel pump............................................$166
Bosch cold start valve.....................................$162
Bosch fuel distributor metering valve................$ 49
Bosch spark plug wires....................................$ 37
Bosch spark plugs w7dc(German 10 pack)........$ 27
Bosch ignition coil...........................................$ 49
Bosch auxiliary air valve.................................$ 61
Bosch fuel injectors [email protected]$ 88
Viton fuel injector seals [email protected]$ 4
Injector cups [email protected] cents!................................$ 2
Valve guide [email protected]$ 8
Flywheel........................................................$140
Sachs HD clutch kit.........................................$ 80
Clutch bits:Bolts, seals, bushings, bearings.......$ 70
Clutch push rod..............................................$ 20
Gear shift repair kit........................................$ 20
Shifter linkages..............................................$ 5
Polyurethane bushing kit.................................$ 70
Autotech Tri Y Header.....................................$299
Magnaflow Hi Flo catalytic converter.................$109
Exhaust joints [email protected]$ 64
Bosch oxygen Lambda sensor..........................$ 25
Exhaust pipe...................................................$ 15
Muffler...........................................................$ 42
52 stainless fasteners......................................$ 57
Complete engine gasket set.............................$ 42
KS Kolbenschmidt main bearings......................$ 42
KS Kolbenschmidt rod bearings........................$ 20
Intermediate shaft bearings.............................$ 20
Mahle piston ring set.......................................$ 20
VW cylinder head bolts....................................$ 28
Connecting rod bolts & nuts.............................$ 40
Freeze plugs...................................................$ 12
Throttle cable.................................................$ 25
Clutch cable...................................................$ 22
Bentley..........................................................$ 39
Timing belt tensioner & belt..............................$ 25
Windage Tray.................................................$ 49
Oil controller...................................................$ 5
Ignition switch.................................................$ 6
Assorted hoses................................................$100
Rubber 1 piece valve cover gasket....................$ 15
Bosch premium oil filter....................................$ 5
Bosch fuel filter................................................$ 11
Water temperature sensor................................$ 5
Various fluids...................................................$ 80

And much more, like hose clamps, nuts, studs, gaskets electrical & other incidentals that add up!
Speaking of electrical, wire alone must have been at least $200!
Excluding the vehicle costs, the parts amounted to around $3000! So far!
I believe that was what I paid as a down payment for a new car once, with $15,000 left to pay!
Totally worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 · (Edited)
are there a lot of vibrations with the poly engine mount?
Just like everyone has been saying. There is definitely a lot of vibrations.
On the plus side, the engine does not rock, it is held tightly in place.
But... I just want to get the rubber diesel mount set with new EPMD cushions, ASAP.
This will be my very next purchase and install, to be followed by suspension a bit later.
I am seriously considering a Jom coilover, anyone used them? Opinions?
I will also find new control arms with rubber bushings, ball joint and tie rods.
Some Dynamat needs to be installed in the firewall, to keep the header noise down.
I love the header! It really does make the car feel different.
The other priorities are a glass pack and better hangers for the exhaust.
These things really do make a big difference in ride comfort, especially with a rag top.
Now that I understand how the power is transmitted, that bit of flex and cushion really help.
Insurance is coming up within days, I will finally see how much enthusiasm this car has.
I still haven't had a chance to take it out yet, but any minute now...

I cannot stop thinking about design potential in the interior!
All I am certain of is the dash will also have rubber mounts, to eliminate vibration.
Door panels will not be very hard, just takes time, and careful measuring to get the 2 sides right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 · (Edited)
I tried so many times to get this video on here, I was having a USB I/O error.
Finally, here is a video of the car running. It had not been started in 5 days! Starts fast!





Here the car is seen idling just after the first video was shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 · (Edited)
Immense difficulty quantifying reaktion.

Just arrived back after the very first drive in this car.:laugh::eek::laugh:
There are only moments before I must go again.
Insured to maximum, it is time for wheels to the pavement.
The link http://merlyyn.com/tech/ for setting the air fuel idle had very good tune instructions.
The throttle body idle screw could not be turned, because the soft brass notch was gibbled.
I mangled it accidentally after the bit disengaged the notch. No wonder the idle wouldn't change.
The throttle body was removed, hoses and lines detached. A small operation of screw removal.
The long TB screw works just fine, and has a 7mm end sticking out. I used the new viton o ring.
Turns out the air fuel mix was out, I discovered the solenoid of the idle boost valve works.
Undulating. Weird. Then, you get it just right and everything settles down, runs nicely. Amazing.
It is a loud car, but it rips. I can drive, no- ...creep along with the close ratio transmission.
Real slow, it was amazing. The old power train (hah) would not work at low speed.
I was talking to a guy from Germany today, he said back in the 80's youngsters would save.
Save every penny in hopes to buy a GTI. All they wanted was a GTI to thrill the girls.

So very different than the car what was.
Fourth gear now is like the old 3rd. Fifth gear in this car is too fast to stay on the road here!
And the roads are bone dry!
The clutch is so very silky smooth. Pure grip. No slip.
The motor mounts are proving to be very good. Settling in. They may just have to stay.
Much less vibration than before. I gotta go!

I have to go drive! C ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 · (Edited)


Not even 500 Km and I did a new oil change, just hours ago. The rings must be seated by now.
Oil was already dirty, the new rings shaving the honing marks off the cylinder walls.
Transmission fluid was "unknown condition" so I changed that frothy stuff too.
What a brutal task! Trying to squeeze 80-90 into a horizontal hole behind the wheel?
Could they have just given us a nice easy filler spot! BTW, can you fill into the speedo hole?

Before the repairs, this much mileage would have used most of a tank of gas.
I have barely used 1/8 of a tank!
 

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I have been watching this on and off since you started. Around the time you started I was putting my freshly rebuilt JH into my 85 scirocco. I rushed it a bit and ended up cutting some corners. I absolutely love your attention to detail. It will make the car that much better down the road. I have had to put most of my weekends in the last 6 months into fixing the mistakes I made. My car is finally doing really great.

Persistence and Patients are definitely the keys to building these cars. My 85 8v makes me smile every day I drive it. There is nothing quite like tearing up the streets every day in a car you re-built with your own two hands

Once again I applaud you.

 
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