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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Figured I would start a project page on here of my passat progress. Officially picked it up yesterday. Had to remove the front bumper and skirt and get it towed because it was to low to the ground. It hasn't ran since the rebuild and when I did a leak down test with a small compressor it was high leak down out of cylinder 4.
Has:
2 1/2 in exhaust
Coil overs suspension
Rebuilt motor 5 years ago
New windshield


Projects:
Flush coolant
Replace distributor
Replace A/C relay
Detail car wash
4 tires and alignment
Replace strut bolt
Stereo and speakers
Rear hatch Struts
Fix central lock motor (keeps running)



Future projects:
MS2 engine management
Turbo
New paint job


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Discussion Starter #2
Been trying to get it started but I think cis-m is fried. It's either getting to much fuel or something. Getting 80 psi at the fuel distributor and I have to have the ignition distributor fully turned to the right to get it to even try to start.

So I'm sourcing parts for megasquirt while I am diagnose it.


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Not much experience with the gas cars, they're too finicky for me.

Have you gotten a B3 Bentley manual to refer to for the FI stuff?

The factory FI system should be fine if the components aren't damaged in some way.

Good luck, and nice to see another B3 being saved!

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No b3 manual but I have a scirocco 16v manual. A guy on 16v forum suggested i check the cam timing and took the valve cover off and it's a tooth off on the intake side. So I removed the cams and aligned the cams properly. Haven't set the engine timing back because it started raining. So hopefully I'll try it tomorrow or Sunday. If I can do it tomorrow and the valves are damaged Sunday I can swap the heads.

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Discussion Starter #6
Started car to move it today. Hopefully tomorrow or by the weekend I'll be able to get to testing the temp gauge and fuel gauge. Also this came in the mail today


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Discussion Starter #10
update: tried to test the coolant gauge to see if it working and the wire that goes to it is grounded. its a yellow/red wire. i'm sure its not the actual wire for it so its pretty much on hold until my bentley comes so I can find out what is the correct wire and where it goes. i might end up when the bentley comes just running a new wire from the cluster to the sensor. tomorrow i'm goin got try to test the fuel gauge. i guessing if you ground the wire it will go up to high like the coolant sensor should. if it works then i'm going to remove the sender and test it there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE: tested gas sender and still no reading at the cluster. Removed it and tested the coolant sensor again and it's not grounded so I'm leaning that the cluster is bad. Waiting for a source on a replacement because I tried to get the board out and still can't get it out to inspect it. Also Sourced a shop to install the tires so next week they should be on. Still haven't bleed the coolant and set ignition timing because I wanted to get the gauges working first. But tomorrow I should be raising the suspension up so I can fit a jack under the car. Put back in the number 99 relay because for some reason it was out.


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UPDATE: tested gas sender and still no reading at the cluster. Removed it and tested the coolant sensor again and it's not grounded so I'm leaning that the cluster is bad. Waiting for a source on a replacement because I tried to get the board out and still can't get it out to inspect it. Also Sourced a shop to install the tires so next week they should be on. Still haven't bleed the coolant and set ignition timing because I wanted to get the gauges working first. But tomorrow I should be raising the suspension up so I can fit a jack under the car. Put back in the number 99 relay because for some reason it was out.

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Your sure that the cluster is bad? There should be a test you can perform at the sender unit to see what's going on. This was on a post in the Mk1 forum so I don't know if the resistance numbers are accurate but it's worth a try and if you have some kind of idea how much fuel is in your tank you can compare what you get with the Mk1 post numbers.

I think just pull the fuel pump / sender cover in back and test resistance at the sender connections (not the lift pump connections).

33-47 ohms= "full"
100-120ohms= "1/2 tank"
250-270ohms= "empty"

if reading above 270 then either its dirty or it sank
you dont need to remove the unit to test that


I would check for something at the back before I would call the cluster junk, but that's just me.

I also read somewhere that if you were experiencing problems with fuel gauge and temp gauge that it was a fuse issue, but I haven't fleshed that out more TBH.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I actually pulled the pump 12 hours ago. And it wouldn't read on the gauge. Then boiled water and tested the temp wire with another sensor and nothing. I'm leaning on the cluster because it shows a hard ground on the temp wire and reads nothing on fuel. I have 3/4 tank of gas. I think it's a broken solider bead somewhere or voltage regulator be a can't figure out how to get the board separated from the cluster box so I'm just going to get another one. For the fuse I checked the engine electronics and it wasn't blown

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE: raised the car 2 in in the front now it's 35 in front and rear. Got key cut but they messed up the key. So now I have to get a generic key maybe tomorrow. Ordered a cluster and waiting for it to come in. Was waiting for Amazon to drop off temp meter but it's getting dark so if they deliver might have to set timing tomorrow and bleed the coolant system with a IR temp meter.


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Discussion Starter #16
UPDATE: manual came in today and ebay distributor. Also ir temp meter came in. Hopefully will be back working on the car the weekend.


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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE: got another cluster in. Haven't installed or worked on the car been sick trying to kick a cold. Hopefully next week after the snow

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Sometimes when the coolant and temperature gauge go at the same time, it indicates a cold-soldered joint on the voltage regulator in the cluster. You can re-do the solder and remedy the problem. I have had this happen twice and I have one to repair. I'll take a picture when I have the cluster out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sometimes when the coolant and temperature gauge go at the same time, it indicates a cold-soldered joint on the voltage regulator in the cluster. You can re-do the solder and remedy the problem. I have had this happen twice and I have one to repair. I'll take a picture when I have the cluster out.
Yeah I was looking for someone that could rebuild mine but didn't find it.

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Discussion Starter #20
Still sick but installed the new cluster before it started raining again and it works.


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