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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Having gone all summer and not lost the20 lbs. I swore I was gonna lose I decided to remove it from my car.
So bye-bye A/C system!
First remove your alternator and lay it aside. If you didn't disconnect the positive terminal I'd suggest doing so.

Now remove the AC hoses from your compressor. If your AC system is full of Freon this will vent it to the air and freeze everything around it. Freon shoudl be removed professionally. However anyone trying to remove their AC system probably has one that's not working and is empty anyway. Just pay attention to what you're doing!

One hose is a 19mm and the other is a 24 mm. Lay the hoses out of the way. Later you'll want to undo the other ends of them and remove them altogether.

You might want to remove the AC condensor ahead of the radiator. But it doesn't matter when you do.

Here's the nitty gritty... Remove the compressor. There are two bolts, usually 8mm allen bolts holding the back side of the compressor onto the bracket.

The front side of the compressor is held by a bolt or two. I've seen several combinations , just look and remove them. Unscrew the tensioner and move the compressor down so you can remove the V-belt from it.
When it's all free pull out the compressor. You now should be looking at this...
(Image is missing, sorry)


Remove the bolts that hold the big bracket on. There are two bolts that go thru the water pump (13mm) and one long allen head (6mm) bolt at the top and may only be accessible by taking off the upper timing cover.
Once the bracket is gone you'll need to put new bolts thru the water pump housing. The new ones are 8mm x 50mm or 55mm. Either will work.

Now put the alternator back in by putting it in the space left by the upper end of the big bracket we've removed.
This moves the alternator to the left a bit which will help our offset.

Here it is all put back together. Note the v-belt is not perfectly aligned but with the addition of a 16mm hole washer behind the pulley it's darn close. I've had it revved out to over 7000 with no issues.

So say bye-bye!

And by the way, you don't even need to get a new fan belt , the old one is the perfect size!!

And how does my power steering pump stay in place? Simple , the big bracket really isn't a hard mount point for the pump. If the other bolts are good then you don't need to do anything. Until you can see what it looks like without the bracket in place it's hard to imagine. CAUTION!! The big bracket stabilizes the power steering mount and it can crack later. Read the comments below for discussion of how to prevent this. For the record I never had this issue.

Eventually I will put a pipe between the pump mounts where the bracket used to be and tie it all together with a 5 " bolt.

FWIW the pump is tighter now than it was!



Modified by Moljinar at 10:17 PM 10-16-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (Moljinar)

Well, it's been over a week and it's obvious. Not only did I remove more than 22 lbs of weight I've also gained at least 10hp!!
I wouldn't have believed it but the car is so much more responsive with more power throughout the entire range. Conclusion... The AC compressor is a hige parasitic drag on the engine even when not running. The bearing on the pulley gets really tired and stiff when as old as these cars. I just replaced a compressor that seized the bearing on another car just last week. The pulley is rather heavy as well.
Glad it's gone!
 

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Re: (Volks1470)

Always interested to see how this delete is done. I am very much on the fence about this after the AC clutch bearing died on my Cabby. I am beginning to lean towards replacing the compressor and getting the whole mess running again.

That being said:
Quote, originally posted by Volks1470 »
i'm going to have to try that one, seems kinda easy. Though last time I tried this there wasn't enough room to get the allen in the hole.
What did you use to get to the compressor bolts?

You definitely should get hex head sockets for your ratchet. This will make life so much easier when dealing with some of the fasterners on these brackets.

And I needed some crazy combination of an extension, u-joint and a ratchet to get the adjusting bolt on the front of the AC compressor bracket - even after removing the power stering pump reservoir.
 

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Re: (JPX)

Quote, originally posted by JPX »
Always interested to see how this delete is done. I am very much on the fence about this after the AC clutch bearing died on my Cabby. I am beginning to lean towards replacing the compressor and getting the whole mess running again.

Every time I work in the engine bay I think about getting rid of the A/C; the less crap in the way the better. But then, Summer rolls around and I'm then reminded of why I put up with the compressor, hoses and condenser.
 

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Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (89GTiMk2)

ok so i started this today....i got the alternator and compressor out, not im working on taking out the big bracket but i cant get the top timing cover off....i have the bolt competely unscrewed...but the problem im having is getting the upper cover to detach from the lower cover...am i missing a screw or something? cause i cant seem to find anything. I pried out the cover to see inside to see if maybe i missed something in there, but it looks like the two covers are fused right together.
 

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Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)

the top cover has to come off in order to get to the bolt that holds the top of that big bracket on. BUT i figured out that im an idiot, there is a nut on the back of the lower cover inside of where that allen head bolt goes through that is holding the two covers together so i got it off finally.
The bracket has to come off so that i can bolt the alternator into that spot, It says it right in the directions at the top of the thread
 

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Re: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor (Moljinar)

haha dont worry i already feel like a big enough idiot, i spent over an hour trying to get the cover off only to find the hole in the cover specifically there too take out that bolt

But i got everything done in a few hours, plus i put on my raceland strut tower bar, it was like driving a totally different car. It was more responsive, a little bit quicker, and the strut tower bar made a crazy difference in the handeling!
the only thing i didnt have laying around was a washer big enough to fit over the alternator shaft behind the pulley, so i had to go get one of those...but for a total of 43 cents i have a much better car in my opinion!
 

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Re: (Shawn M.)

Only one issue with this write up...."If you didn't disconnect the positive terminal I'd suggest doing so."
Must've been another senior moment, Oran? Always, always, always disconnect the negative battery terminal first! Positive first can send voltage spikes and fry things like the ignition control module. Also, you can short things and make big sparks if you slip and smack into anything grounded with the wrench.
 
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