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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I got to see my wheels on a vehicle, just not one I ever expected. This Bronco had wrecked and popped the right front tire, we needed to get it inside before some rain and this was the only tire mounted on a Ford Truck pattern wheel so it got borrowed.
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Went in today and planned on welding the outside cover pieces for the chassis rails and mostly got there. Six and a half hours of TIG welding later and I still have a bunch of welding left to get them completely welded. People wonder why legitimately custom stuff costs a fortune, that's why. It could be MIG welded, and I don't really have to completely weld the entire seams, but it will look a lot better this way.
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And a video walking around the thing
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Basically the same picture over and over again today. I've got the side pieces fully welded on the main chassis rails finally after another 7 hour day of welding. TIG welding really is quite time consuming when it's several feet of weld having to be laid down. I had thought maybe we would get the rear hoop bent today but by the time the welding was done we were ready to be done for the day. Also I got metal for the front spindles but no pictures of a couple flat pieces of steel still in their shipping package.

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And a video of the same stuff as the pictures.
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Made some progress today, got the main back hoop made and installed. Not done exactly but mostly so. We still need to get another diagonal support bar in under the roll hoop but with that it'd be done and time to move on. With that done I believe the next thing that will be tackled will be the hip bar to ladder the frame between the axles.

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As has become fashionable did a walk around the chassis at the end of the day.

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I had to catch up as I had missed some stuff. That’s coming along nicely! I can’t imagine spending that much time tig welding, but that’s what it takes. A hat’s next after the frame is done, suspension and getting it on its wheels, fabricating the body or...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I had to catch up as I had missed some stuff. That’s coming along nicely! I can’t imagine spending that much time tig welding, but that’s what it takes. A hat’s next after the frame is done, suspension and getting it on its wheels, fabricating the body or...?
The biggest hurdle is probably going to be getting the blower drive to work. Getting the blower mounted, getting the pulley adapter from RK Sport, and then probably having to make pulleys for the blower and crankshaft. Also having to get all that done in such a way that there is a belt that fits.

Talking with the guys at the shop they keep saying that once we get the chassis done things will go quickly as far as mounting the engine, making the suspension, and fabricating most of the body (minus front and back ends). I'm trying to keep things reeled back though. Actually just sitting here thinking, I've still got to invent a shift mechanism from scratch too and that won't be easy.
 

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The biggest hurdle is probably going to be getting the blower drive to work. Getting the blower mounted, getting the pulley adapter from RK Sport, and then probably having to make pulleys for the blower and crankshaft. Also having to get all that done in such a way that there is a belt that fits.

Talking with the guys at the shop they keep saying that once we get the chassis done things will go quickly as far as mounting the engine, making the suspension, and fabricating most of the body (minus front and back ends). I'm trying to keep things reeled back though. Actually just sitting here thinking, I've still got to invent a shift mechanism from scratch too and that won't be easy.
I can't recall from the above posts but what kind of gearbox are you going to mate to the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I can't recall from the above posts but what kind of gearbox are you going to mate to the engine?
It's up there in greater detail, but it's the gearbox that came with the engine which is a 3 speed Borg Warner T90 which was a top shift trans with a transfer case mated to the back of it. I cut up the transfer case for parts and made an adapter that essentially converts the 4wd transmission to a RWD trans. It's not ideal, but it was already there so it was cheap.
 

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It's up there in greater detail, but it's the gearbox that came with the engine which is a 3 speed Borg Warner T90 which was a top shift trans with a transfer case mated to the back of it. I cut up the transfer case for parts and made an adapter that essentially converts the 4wd transmission to a RWD trans. It's not ideal, but it was already there so it was cheap.
Hmmm. Same rear end as well or something different? I was thinking that as it's a straight six and originally intended for a tractor, this engine has lots of low end grunt so you could probably get away with something fairly tall and Still have good acceleration.
OOpps, my apologies, I just re-read the first post and saw that it's a 3:31 to one 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Buddy is in town this weekend, so not an overabundance of race car stuff was accomplished today. I did get this last bit of the main rear hoop done. We should've made this before the hoop was welded to the main lower chassis rails. Doing it this way I had to cover a gap at the top to allow the pipe to rotate up into place. I don't suppose it looks too terrible though.

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The after lunch we went across the street and worked on my buddy's Subaru for a while, so bonus Subaru pictures.

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
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Downtown last night for a concert (Rancid and The Dropkick Murphys) so a bit of a late start of things this morning.
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What I did eventually get accomplished, though I must use that term loosely, was drawing up the rear of the chassis. Strange as it may seem I had yet to actually measure and draw up the stuff from the main hoop back or really see what all was needed to mount the fuel cell back there. My wife and older son are going back down to the same amphitheater tonight to see another show so I couldn't stay long working. I ended up getting a piece of tubing cut into four sections and three of those bent to weld into that rear bar set. Unpictured I also messed with making a step point in the same figure eight inside an oval look as the chassis rails that will eventually get mounted to the outside of the body so it won't be necessary to stand on the rear suspension arms to enter the cockpit.
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Picture of the tubing bender we use in something resembling action. Then a short video showing it actually bending a tube followed by walking over to show the already bent pieces and drawing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
So I did do work on the chassis last weekend. I bent the final piece of the rear bar and welded them together and then onto the rest of the chassis. What I didn't do was remember to bring my phone with me so I had no pictures of any of that. Back again today though.

Finally took pictures of where that back bar was put in last weekend. Plus just sort of sat the fuel cell up there with it.
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The got to work doing to reinforcements that come down to that back bar. Also with fuel cell sitting there for reference.
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At this point, with the chassis on the stands the top of the roll hoop was too high to really weld so I had to lower the chassis. And since I was lowering the chassis I figured why not block it at ride height. That horse is nearly the same height that the engine will be sitting in the chassis, and the front edge of the horse is sat about where the front of the engine will be. Not only that but the creeper chair is damn near where the driver's seat will be oddly.
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Jeff there with me remarked how low everything looked but that's 4 inches and those rails should be the lowest point on the vehicle. It's not comfortable street car height but then this still isn't a street car, and low means low center of gravity which means better handling. Following getting those bars welded in we cut some strips on the plasma table and began to put the cap pieces on that back bar just like I've done on the main chassis rails.

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The last picture was where I left off for the day. I've got the strips cut to go the rest of the way 'round, but it'd been 8 hours by that point and would've had to clean more metal before I could weld them on. The chassis is still actually relatively easy lift at this point, I'd say it's around 100 pounds now, maybe a little under. The balance point is just aft of the midpoint of the flat bottom parts of the chassis. That doesn't really mean anything to this point, but seemed interesting enough to include here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Finished capping the back hoop today. Nothing earth shattering there.
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That took up the morning then I started bending pipe for the other two chassis hoops, the dash and toe bars. Unfortunately things literally went sideways there and I didn't get either bar bent straight. So both pieces had to be cut in the middle, sleeved and welded back straight. That took up a good bit of time and I ended up not getting as much done as I was hoping.
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You'll have to trust me that those are separate pieces as they pretty much look the same. You can see the spot in the middle of the cross piece in both bars where they've been cut and welded back together. I really thought I was going to get both hoops done and welded to the rest of the chassis today but ended up just getting the dash bar on.
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Buddy there says "That looks high Mike" which it is, but it has to clear the engine and the engine is really tall. Consequence being everything is taller than you think it really should be, the seating position will be taller than you'd think too for the same reason. It's said with cars of this era (era that this is based off at least) that you didn't sit in the car you sat on it, and that's really quite true and rather the opposite of what people expect for the last fifty years or so.
 

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That’s great progress! Once the frame is done I would imagine it’ll really start to feel like it’s moving along faster, as major assemblies will start to go into it. Keep plugging away! 🍺

It’s true that you sat on it, rather than in it. If you get into something like a Model T you’ll really feel it! had big wheels to deal with mud, a frame that fit over the to of it and still allow movement, and a very upright seat on top of that. Even with a full body around you it feels like you’re way up over it. Because you are.
 

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Finished capping the back hoop today. Nothing earth shattering there.
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That took up the morning then I started bending pipe for the other two chassis hoops, the dash and toe bars. Unfortunately things literally went sideways there and I didn't get either bar bent straight. So both pieces had to be cut in the middle, sleeved and welded back straight. That took up a good bit of time and I ended up not getting as much done as I was hoping.
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You'll have to trust me that those are separate pieces as they pretty much look the same. You can see the spot in the middle of the cross piece in both bars where they've been cut and welded back together. I really thought I was going to get both hoops done and welded to the rest of the chassis today but ended up just getting the dash bar on.
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Buddy there says "That looks high Mike" which it is, but it has to clear the engine and the engine is really tall. Consequence being everything is taller than you think it really should be, the seating position will be taller than you'd think too for the same reason. It's said with cars of this era (era that this is based off at least) that you didn't sit in the car you sat on it, and that's really quite true and rather the opposite of what people expect for the last fifty years or so.
That's some nice work, you almost make me want to get some tubing and start on another custom bike frame,...:)
Any idea of what the all up weight will be in the end? I'm thinking that this thing will wind up being so light in the end that you won't need a lot of power in the end to make for an entertaining ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Any idea of what the all up weight will be in the end? I'm thinking that this thing will wind up being so light in the end that you won't need a lot of power in the end to make for an entertaining ride.
We were discussing this yesterday in the shop. One of the guys still has a CanAm side by side he's thinking about fiddling with and mentioned that it's 1800 pounds and that struck me as strangely heavy for something like that. They asked what I thought this was going to weigh in the end and my thinking is roughly that same number. I'd love to have it come in 1700 or 1800 without driver. They both thought it was wishful thinking but I don't necessarily see it that way.

700 pounds for engine
300 chassis
150 for wheels tires
150 for rear axle
200 say for the body skin
that leaves 200 pounds for things like fuel, battery, seat, gauges and wiring and stuff and I feel like that's doable.
 

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We were discussing this yesterday in the shop. One of the guys still has a CanAm side by side he's thinking about fiddling with and mentioned that it's 1800 pounds and that struck me as strangely heavy for something like that. They asked what I thought this was going to weigh in the end and my thinking is roughly that same number. I'd love to have it come in 1700 or 1800 without driver. They both thought it was wishful thinking but I don't necessarily see it that way.

700 pounds for engine
300 chassis
150 for wheels tires
150 for rear axle
200 say for the body skin
that leaves 200 pounds for things like fuel, battery, seat, gauges and wiring and stuff and I feel like that's doable.
700 pounds for a straight six?
I swapped a few GM I6s back in the day and it didn't seem like they were that heavy. Mind you I do recall you saying that this I6 was based on a tractor engine or something similar and those Were 'over-engineered' back in the day for that extra strength. I'm thinkin that you'll make that 1700 pounds easily though and this thing will light up the tires in all the gears,... 😁
Funny thing too, now that it's really beginning to take form it sorta reminds me of the Auto Unions and MBs that raced just before The War, can't quite put my finger on why though.🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
700 pounds for a straight six?
I swapped a few GM I6s back in the day and it didn't seem like they were that heavy. Mind you I do recall you saying that this I6 was based on a tractor engine or something similar and those Were 'over-engineered' back in the day for that extra strength. I'm thinkin that you'll make that 1700 pounds easily though and this thing will light up the tires in all the gears,... 😁
Funny thing too, now that it's really beginning to take form it sorta reminds me of the Auto Unions and MBs that raced just before The War, can't quite put my finger on why though.🤔
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Bear in mind with this that it's super long stroke so the engine block is unusually tall, and then the hemi head is iron and unusually wide for an old inline six. The cam plate is aluminum though, so there is that. I'll also say it's not like I've actually weighed the thing so far, that's what I read in an old road test or maybe an old technical article when the engine debuted. Also if I recall correctly that was for the entire engine/transmission/transfer case.
 

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Bear in mind with this that it's super long stroke so the engine block is unusually tall, and then the hemi head is iron and unusually wide for an old inline six. The cam plate is aluminum though, so there is that. I'll also say it's not like I've actually weighed the thing so far, that's what I read in an old road test or maybe an old technical article when the engine debuted. Also if I recall correctly that was for the entire engine/transmission/transfer case.
Gotcha. With the transmission factored in, which I'm assuming has an steel case, that 700 pounds seems very reasonable now. Just out of curiosity, what were they using for trannys in the performance versions in South America?
 
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