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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did it, why can't you......

Ron's Single pump conversion

I was looking at replacing both fuel pumps in my Green Cabby, what with it being 15 days before
Christmas, what a bummer.....

So I decided now is the time to convert the car to a single fuel pump. I used Ron's most Excellent conversion steps, although I did change it a wee bit. Ron's Great Link

To add to Ron's steps I will add that I did the fuel pump in the tank first and buttoned it up as the tank was pretty full and I didn't want fuel spillage.

As the Strainer was and always will be a pain in the ass to install without dropping it and try try again... I hit a Eureka Moment. I took a 3 foot piece of String, and Tied the strainer to the fuel pump, why didn't I think of this years ago....when the pump was down in the tank, all I had to do was to snip the string and pull it out, then close it up.



Lastly, I used the wix fuel filter but modified the bracket to mount it right back on the old filter mount. It is neat and out of the way.

Where I diverted from Ron's plan is I used a E3210, for about 30 bucks less, that is 55 dollars, the working pressures and fit were the same...

Parts used:
E3210 55 bucks
6 foot of 5/16 fuel line 6 bucks
8 hose clamps 4 bucks
Wix 33321 filter 12 bucks.

Removed both pumps, the sump and 4 foot or so of hard rotten fuel line.
About 2 hours work. Yall can do the math.
RON WHAT A WONDERFUL CHRISTMAS PRESENT....

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::thumbup:
 

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Good show finding a less expensive pump, that was the major point of the mod, save a buncha bucks over replacing both stock pumps.

But, dang, I wish I would've known in advance you were about to make that mod.
I'm only guessing, but I suspect that a single, stock, in tank pump might be adequate to run the pump.
To find out, it'll take someone with a running DigiFant car and a fuel pressure gauge. Test the deadhead pressure straight out of the pump at the pump/level sender fitting, if deadhead pressure is found to be 70, 80 or more PSI, it should be good to run the engine, we already know that a quart in 30 seconds (or whatever the spec is) is way more than enough volume.

Maybe Cajun will be inclined to test? Or Moljinar, I think he's got a DigiFant Jetta, dun't recall if those use two pumps though.
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As a side note, tolusina the car, my (used to be) Triple White Cabby is about to go on it's last drive to the junkyard in the next day or two.
That means no more how too's from me, I'll have no model to work on and photograph, unless the rare opportunity presents like my "CIS Injector Cleaning, Seal and Holder Replacement" write up where an '85 presented itself.

I'm pulling the speakers, cruise, steering wheel, column shaft, combo switches, maybe a few other parts, the white boot is in great shape and will be going. Anything and everything else is free to anyone in or near to the 916.
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I'm real pleased with a least one aspect of the '95 Ford Ranger that will be my new D.D., the side vents blow heat. ;) :laugh: Makes me giddy thinking about it. What WAS VW thinking, anyway?

The Chilton is good for TeePee only, schematics were about 95% useless, glad I didn't find a Haynes.
I bought a 1 year subscription to AllDataDIY for the truck, it's amazing, truly amazing.
Had a weird electrical issue with the turns and flash to pass, spent most of a day puzzling it out, a minute and a half on the actual repair. Turned out a color blind electrician had crossed two wires in a plug just downstream of the combo switch.
I probably would have spent another two days finding it if not for the excellent schematics and pin out details I found in AllDataDIY, amazing detail in there, loaded with Factory info.

Dang Ford though, finally found the deeply buried chime thingy, (The Generic Electronics Module, GEM for short, (or shorts, whichever)), unplugged it, then the dome light and wipers stopped functioning, ewwww. :(

Gotta do shocks, t-belt kit and coolant pump, buy tire chains, then it's off on a Cross Country drive with it. Oh, and clear the stoopid, fogged, plastic headlight covers


---
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
But, dang, I wish I would've known in advance you were about to make that mod.
I'm only guessing, but I suspect that a single, stock, in tank pump might be adequate to run the pump.

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I had the same thought when I was doing the fuel pressure checks, when the Fuel Pressure Regulator died last month, as in the Bentley the spec is the same for both pumps. I said gee, if the pressure is the same, and the flow is too, then why two frigging pumps.

Sorry for the demise of the cabby.

Enjoy the new ride.

psssss for the foggy light covers see my how to on "cabby-info."
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I know how departing feels, I had real mixed emotions when my white one was hauled off... Till I looked at the check the Insurance company gave me....


"As a side note, tolusina the car, my (used to be) Triple White Cabby is about to go on it's last drive to the junkyard in the next day or two. " So are you going to change your logon to "Ferd"?

In lieu of flowers can I buy you a beer?
 

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...... So are you going to change your logon to "Ferd"?

In lieu of flowers can I buy you a beer?
No, no logon change. tolusina is already a member of the fordrangerfourm.com site, with zero posts.
Truck does have a name, it's kind of beat, and it's going to tow, so, it's named after a pretty famous animated, beat tow truck. Chime's (in the GEM) name is Larry.

Beer? Guiness Stout please. COLD!! And what's that ball thingy rolling around the bottom of the can?
 

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As a side note, tolusina the car, my (used to be) Triple White Cabby is about to go on it's last drive to the junkyard in the next day or two.
...
I'm real pleased with a least one aspect of the '95 Ford Ranger that will be my new D.D.,
OK, I was finally resolved to the fact that you were going to junk your Cabriolet, but to replace it with a FORD???!!! :facepalm: I am thoroughly disappointed, disgusted and saddened by this news. :(

The one solace: Ford's are a royal PITA... you'll be adding a lot of DIY guides to that Ford forum. :eek: :laugh:

P.S. Don't forget to send me tolusina's sequential number (and a pic) so I can add her to the Cabriolet registry... she deserves to be memorialized in a proper place. :)
 

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I have already found a compatible high pressure pump..its the tre-507 from tre performance.
It runs about $70. I've used it on one of my cabbies for about a year now. Just recently replaced it with the stock pump cuz I had a few bucks extra...but this will be my backup pump.

Output specs are compatible...just have to wire up the + and - to match the original vw wire plug.

Be glad to help the group in any way necessary, weather permitting. Why is the car being junked?
 

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To find out, it'll take someone with a running DigiFant car and a fuel pressure gauge. Test the deadhead pressure straight out of the pump at the pump/level sender fitting, if deadhead pressure is found to be 70, 80 or more PSI, it should be good to run the engine, we already know that a quart in 30 seconds (or whatever the spec is) is way more than enough volume.

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The system pressure is of course ~45 psi. I haven't tested the deadhead pressure but I will this coming weekend as I think my regulator is malfunctioning on the Jetta.

Sorry to hear the cabby is kaput. It took a lot of guts for me to retire Buffy but her parts are slowly making their way onto Spike.
 

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Trying to solve an on-throttle hesitation issue I'm working through, and the only parts I'm unsure of are the fuel pumps. I remember seeing this thread a while back, so I figured I'd dig it up as I have some questions:

1. The hard cornering. I don't see any solution to this aside from making sure the tank is over 1/4 tank for driving like a maniac, have you come up with anything? I guess it could just be something I'd have to remember, but it would be nice to have a 100% install.

2. My car currently has the CIS setup. Is there anything else I'll need in addition to what's listed in the DIY? I'm not yet familiar with the differences between the CIS and Digi fuel pump connections, hoses, etc.

3. I see this fuel pump (Airtex E3240) is spec'd for a '95 Corvette. Can I assume this will be enough to support my lightly modified G60? I would sure as hell hope so.

4. That WIX filter... has a bracket built onto it? That's amazing! I'm using a Golf 3 filter in a spare coil bracket bolted to the strut tower in that same place.

Thanks guys. It'd be nice to put a $25 pump in place of the $300 dual-pump system!

Edit: There's is a Granetelli 225lph pump I found on Jegs that is spec'd for the same applications as the Airtex. This would be a good choice for myself or the 16v/20v turbo guys out there, and still half the cost of the OEM pumps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes you would need a different pump than the one I or Ron used as the working pressure isn't what the CIS is looking for. That isn't to say that they don't make a 75psi 12gal/hr pump. You would just have to source it. I am sure that Summit Racing carries one or Napa...
 

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I'm running a G60 on Digi1, so 45 psi is fine for me, it was more the hoses and fittings I was concerned about. I still have the CIS hard lines on my car, and I've never gotten intimate with a Digi cabby. Did they have plastic lines or the same banjo bolt/hard line setup in the rear?
 

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I'm running a G60 on Digi1, so 45 psi is fine for me, it was more the hoses and fittings I was concerned about. I still have the CIS hard lines on my car, and I've never gotten intimate with a Digi cabby. Did they have plastic lines or the same banjo bolt/hard line setup in the rear?
Best I recall, the lines coming out of the sender to the fuel reservoir (the plastic, box thingy) are pretty much the same, they carry relatively only low pressures.

Differences on CIS cars start at the outlet of the fuel pump where the pressures are up to around 80 psi. Notice on CIS cars that ALL those high pressure fittings are either banjo bolt types or screw together, compression type fittings, you won't find a single hose clamp on a CIS system downstream of the pump.
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On your G60 Digi I Cabby, when you begin discussions relative to Digi I, make sure to be clear that it is G60 Digi I because NA Digi I and G60 Digi I are significantly different.
Best I recall, and I'm starting to headache just thinking about it, MAP and IAT features of G60 Gigi aside, G60 Digi I most resembles NA Digi II and vice versa, similarities being number of control unit pins (25 or 38), check engine light/self diagnostics and some other stuffs.
 

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Best I recall, the lines coming out of the sender to the fuel reservoir (the plastic, box thingy) are pretty much the same, they carry relatively only low pressures.

Differences on CIS cars start at the outlet of the fuel pump where the pressures are up to around 80 psi. Notice on CIS cars that ALL those high pressure fittings are either banjo bolt types or screw together, compression type fittings, you won't find a single hose clamp on a CIS system downstream of the pump.
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On your G60 Digi I Cabby, when you begin discussions relative to Digi I, make sure to be clear that it is G60 Digi I because NA Digi I and G60 Digi I are significantly different.
Best I recall, and I'm starting to headache just thinking about it, MAP and IAT features of G60 Gigi aside, G60 Digi I most resembles NA Digi II and vice versa, similarities being number of control unit pins (25 or 38), check engine light/self diagnostics and some other stuffs.
G60 Digi I has the CO-pot as well, and I think it is closer to Digi II than the NA Digi I. I know I need to clarify, I keep forgetting that it's not a standard car. I've got parts from Corrados, Passats, Rallye Golfs, etc etc on my car. Sorry about that. It wasn't my intention to confuse anyone reading the how-to, especially if someone less mechanically-inclined reads it trying to do the pump swap.

Thanks for the info! I think what I may end up doing is running new hard and soft lines from the in-tank pump to the front.
 

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G60 Digi I has the CO-pot as well, and I think it is closer to Digi II than the NA Digi I.........
Um, yeah, I thimk that's what I was trying to say, sort of, my head still hurts.

As I recall, the CO pot 'trims' IAT resistance.

And, I don't know if it's rumor or fact, but I sort of recall that the dimensions of the vacuum/pressure line to the MAP sensor in the ECU are critical, if you haven't yet looked into that, maybe you'll want to.
 

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Um, yeah, I thimk that's what I was trying to say, sort of, my head still hurts.

As I recall, the CO pot 'trims' IAT resistance.

And, I don't know if it's rumor or fact, but I sort of recall that the dimensions of the vacuum/pressure line to the MAP sensor in the ECU are critical, if you haven't yet looked into that, maybe you'll want to.
Yep, the MAP line has to be 4mmx1m exactly. Replacing that cleared up most of the car's on-boost stupid, but I still have some high-rpm hesitation. Only thing left to replace is the fuel pump, so... here I am. I'll report back when it's all done!

Just found the Airtex kit for $22 on Ebay. :thumbup:
 

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