VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner

1 - 20 of 95 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just for anybody new on here i'll give you a bit of a timeline of my past few iterations of my airride systems:

Part 1

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5238122-A-very-technical-build

Coles Notes:
- I was new to airride
- having an engineering background i was able to come up with a decent plan and layout for the trunk that was functional
- I ran 2 compressors
- I ran 2 tanks
- Hit a curb with the subframe, tweaked the frame and parted out the car


Image uploading. Refresh page to view

Image uploading. Refresh page to view


Part 2

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5585113-A-very-technical-build-PART-II

Coles Notes:
- Waited for months to find the exact car i wanted, bought it, waited til the spring to install the airride again
- added one more compressor
- added more water traps
- New frame mount design
- Wiring redesign so all relays were accessible from the electrical section of the trunk
- TONS of sound/vibration isolation and dampening so the compressors were silent when running

Video of noise levels: http://s605.photobucket.com/user/MechEngg/media/VID00016-20120630-1255.mp4.html

Image uploading. Refresh page to view



Image uploading. Refresh page to view



Part 3

Now on to Part 3, this build.

Reasons for a redesign:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6097002-Need-expert-help!

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content



Compressors ended up eating themselves at the end of last season. I had the system running for a year and a half and something got to them. It may have been the harmonics because all three compressors were bolted directly to the same piece of aluminum. It may have been because the initial water trap was so plugged up it wasn't able to handle the flow of the compressors anymore.
So i figured i would take a look at this and change up a few things on the system. Change anything that i thought may have lead to the destruction of the compressors and also the tanks will be looking a bit nicer this go around :)


NEW STUFF

Vibration Isolation Mounts
I am using more lighter duty vibration mounts rather than just a few heavy duty mounts. They will absorb more vibrations, as well i can distribute them BETWEEN the compressors themselves rather than just between the compressor frame and the trunk. This should definitely help get rid of any harmonics and will give off a negligible amount of vibrations to the trunk




4 Compressors

Decided to add a fourth Air Zenith compressor into the mix. Alternator should be able to handle it so why not ;)
Also decided to find a way to use the standard AZ check valve and braided hoses so i got a few new bungs welded onto my smaller tank and i will run each compressor seperately directly into this tank. I have also decided to remove all water traps from the lower section, i am only going to run a single water trap and pressure regulator and check valve between my 5 gallon tank and the vu4 manifold. This means that i can set the max pressure/max height so if a valve fails open i do not blow a bag. Also means that if the tank gets a leak or something drastic happens, the bags will remain filled and the car won't air out while i'm on the road/in traffic etc.


That is about all for now folks, but i will update this further as i go along :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,346 Posts
FV-QR

I like what you did with the aluminum tank, it looks good. I've been meaning to get 1, I have a steel tank.

Sorry to hear about your AZ problems. Did you ever get it sorted out?

3 didn't work, so use 4. lol. That cracked me up a bit. Do you really think those springs with help with the harmonics?
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
12,779 Posts
Decided to add a fourth Air Zenith compressor into the mix. Alternator should be able to handle it so why not ;)
Also decided to find a way to use the standard AZ check valve and braided hoses so i got a few new bungs welded onto my smaller tank and i will run each compressor seperately directly into this tank. I have also decided to remove all water traps from the lower section, i am only going to run a single water trap and pressure regulator and check valve between my 5 gallon tank and the vu4 manifold. This means that i can set the max pressure/max height so if a valve fails open i do not blow a bag. Also means that if the tank gets a leak or something drastic happens, the bags will remain filled and the car won't air out while i'm on the road/in traffic etc.
I am curious why you have decided to go this way. On my previous setup I ran my 444cc viair leader line into a check valve with a ptc on the end with about 5' of nylon line into a water trap mounted to my tank. It was a steel tank so I wanted to keep the water out of there as well as my manifold. problem is my water trap froze all the time, even with emptying it almost daily :screwy:. On my new set up I am picking up an Air Zenith and planned on running it with the leader line, (havent decided if I wanted an additional check valve) straight to the tank. Then having a water trap mounted onto the tank that leads back to the manifold. I will have to drain my tank but shouldn't be as big of a concern as it is aluminum. Reading through deans new thread as well as my goal is a leak free system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like what you did with the aluminum tank, it looks good. I've been meaning to get 1, I have a steel tank.

Sorry to hear about your AZ problems. Did you ever get it sorted out?

3 didn't work, so use 4. lol. That cracked me up a bit. Do you really think those springs with help with the harmonics?
Thanks, i like it a lot too!
I got the compressors rebuilt by AZ but they couldn't pin point the exact problem. They tried to blame it on the motor thermal device but that is not the issue, shouldn't have gotten hot enough to trip the thermal device to begin with. So i have a few theories that i have decided to make changes based around, hence the springs/isolators between compressors and each compressor directly into the tank, bypassing the water trap that it used to feed into.

I am curious why you have decided to go this way. On my previous setup I ran my 444cc viair leader line into a check valve with a ptc on the end with about 5' of nylon line into a water trap mounted to my tank. It was a steel tank so I wanted to keep the water out of there as well as my manifold. problem is my water trap froze all the time, even with emptying it almost daily :screwy:. On my new set up I am picking up an Air Zenith and planned on running it with the leader line, (havent decided if I wanted an additional check valve) straight to the tank. Then having a water trap mounted onto the tank that leads back to the manifold. I will have to drain my tank but shouldn't be as big of a concern as it is aluminum. Reading through deans new thread as well as my goal is a leak free system.
Well originally i wanted to 100% make sure nothing got into the tank so i ran the three traps. Nothing ever got into the second and the third and my buffer tank really acts as a giant condensing tank for any water. Taking out the first trap i still expect to get zero water in the water trap between the 5 gallon tank and manifold. The AZ check valves are really good and you shouldn't need an extra check valve on them :thumbup:
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
12,779 Posts
Well originally i wanted to 100% make sure nothing got into the tank so i ran the three traps. Nothing ever got into the second and the third and my buffer tank really acts as a giant condensing tank for any water. Taking out the first trap i still expect to get zero water in the water trap between the 5 gallon tank and manifold. The AZ check valves are really good and you shouldn't need an extra check valve on them :thumbup:
sounds good, I thought I had head good things about their check valves.
what do you use to seal your threads?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
sub'd for updates. You always do good work. :thumbup: ..bummer about your other comps, hopefully it'll be better this go around.

:popcorn:
Thanks man, i am confident that this time around will be much better :thumbup:

4.5 seconds. :D
If i only had the 3 gallon tank that would be sweet. I'd be down to like 20 seconds or so haha

Part II was awesome. Look forward to what's next :thumbup:


Sent from The Universe using Stephen Hawking.
Thanks bud :thumbup: Stay tuned

sounds good, I thought I had head good things about their check valves.
what do you use to seal your threads?
I typically just use a PTFE paste ive had around for years. But i'm almost out. Will probably stick to using it since it gives me zero leaks in both the setups

This looks awesome :thumbup:
Thanks :thumbup::thumbup:





UPDATE

After talking to Dean i have decided on a slightly different route for my tank setup. Ordering a tank and a few unique fittings tonight and hopefully i'm able to get started pulling out the 5 gallon tank and doing a few modifications to the wiring area this week. New setup should give me space to carry around tools in a nice self contained space as well as make a nifty jack storage place and cover. Excited for this :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,346 Posts
The AZ check valves are really good and you shouldn't need an extra check valve on them :thumbup:
Do you have any pictures of the AZ check valves?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Do you have any pictures of the AZ check valves?
It is 1/4" NPT male threads that thread into the head of the compressor and it comes out as a 1/2" 37 degree flare fitting (JIC/-8 AN if you will). The stainless leader lines just screw into the end of the check valve, very nice setup so that stuff is removable without having to deal with pipe dope at all :thumbup:




UPDATE

Got everything out of the car today, each box came out in minutes, as it was designed to.
Stripped everything down for a bit of a rejig of the setup still, going to go with just a 3 gallon tank for now, see if i want to add the extra tank for capacity later on. Fill times will be retarded.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,346 Posts
FV-QR

Those AZ Check valves don't look to different from their Viar counter part. I never had any luck with them. They always leaked, even brand spankin new. If you need an alternative, go to your local big rig shop and pick up some check valves from them. That's what I ended up doing, 1 for each compressor. They lasted longer than my 380s. I upgraded to 444s and replaced just for good measure.




That's 1 fancy setup you got there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those AZ Check valves don't look to different from their Viar counter part. I never had any luck with them. They always leaked, even brand spankin new. If you need an alternative, go to your local big rig shop and pick up some check valves from them. That's what I ended up doing, 1 for each compressor. They lasted longer than my 380s. I upgraded to 444s and replaced just for good measure.

That's 1 fancy setup you got there.
Hey thanks for the concern. I had no issues with these check valves before except for the fact that i attached a plain steel component to their output and i rusted out the check valves, my fault. They seem to work pretty darn well to be honest, no leaks and able to withstand high heat, but i do have 3 SMC check valves and 3 other check valves sitting around plus 3 extra AZ check valves. So i think i'm pretty set when it comes to check valves :thumbup:

At it again lol. Can't wait to see the outcome
Haha always :thumbup:


UPDATE


Got my setup partially modelled up to do a fitting takeoff, i'm going down to 1/4" line in the box to slow down the fill of the bags a smidge, won't be a world of difference because it is still 3/8" line everywhere else but this should help with the rears hitting ride height easily the first time on tight height tolerance settings.

Adding another tank, just like Dean's hanging from the parcel shelf, this is replacing the 5 gallon tank on the floor. Reason i'm doing it this way is to give myself a nice box for storing a floor jack, and i am also removing my amplifier and using that as storage for wrenches/parts/etc if i break down. Relays are moving into the box (red in picture) and will be accessible.
This box will all be carpeted so that it looks nice, wire loomed, etc so that i can take off the cover if i go to shows etc.

Honestly excited for my BagRiders order to come in for the tank and few fittings that i need so i can get going with doing final measurements for the box and get to work :thumbup::thumbup:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,577 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will do a full detailed writeup on the final design soon, basically what i have done and why. Every component has been chosen and placed for a specific reason :thumbup::thumbup:

Modelled in my air lines for fun. Should be an uber clean setup. All plumbing on one side of the box, all electrical on the other.

Also going to be using quick disconnects for all the electrical sensor lines and main ECU harness lines. Should be able to remove the whole system in a matter of minutes if anything goes wrong so i can fix stuff super easily


 
1 - 20 of 95 Posts
Top