VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
heres my delimma... (sp?)
i can get oem vw parts really cheap from a friend who works at the dealer... (rebuildable stuff)...
so... should i
1) learn how to tune on a very cheap and easy to rebuild 8 valve motor... i can get a web turbo cam very cheap, a fresh set of cams, a quick port job, backcut valves and a quick valve job for virtually nothing... I build all my own manifolds etc etc so...
run that setup until i really learn what i'm doing then rebuild a 20v head and run that?
or...
2) build an aba 16vt, learn to tune on that... keep in mind building a worthwhile 16v head costs $$ compared to an 8v head, is the extra ponies really worth it for just learning?

all i use the car for is screwin around on the street no racing, i just want it to pull hard on the highway.

i already have a 16v, but at 150k miles the head probably needs a valve job anyways, i've picked up a couple of junk 16v heads but all of em look somewhat sketchy. i can't decide what to do but i'm leaning towards the 8 valve just because this guy can do a valve job for free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Re: aba 8vt or 16vt... (peteM3)

I'm sure you'll get lots of advice, but yours was more-or-less my goal--have fun, learn, and have a decent street car in the end. So for what it's worth, here's my opinion: I say stepwise refinement--start with aba heads. There are a LOT out there now for dirt cheap. Start with a turbo diesel manifold if you want. It bolts on. You don't have to mess with plumbing or weird timing belts or anything. Stock cam is pretty decent. If you're out to have fun there are lots of things you can do yourself with an 8V head. Find an OBD1 one. Take the casting marks off. Port-match the intake. Relieve the valves. Polish the chambers. Use the bmw big valve trick (switching to solid lifters lets you put in 2mm larger valves from a bmw E30 pretty easily). Get a G-grind cam. Fab a proper T3 manifold. Put on a nice turbo. Go to full standalone (you will have passed your goal of pulling hard on the highway long ago--stock head, diesel turbo setup, about 8psi, intercooler, and tuning will get you there on the cheap). Somewhere around here you'll learn to replace a clutch too. And maybe a second-gear synchro.
Then IF YOU WANT, get a 16V head. Everybody seems to be doing this (or at least talking about it). To the point that it's probably a joke to the people who did it first. There seems to be lots of info floating around on how to do it now anyway. Where I live 20V heads go for around $500 and I just bought a 9A ENGINE, manifolds, ecu, harness for $350 Canadian (US$250)--choice is obvious. You have to weld some passages to do the 20V. The 16V is easier. There is some argument as to how big a difference 20V makes over 16V. Fab up another manifold to use your nice turbo from your 8V setup.
Your CR's now pretty low--so turn up the boost. And so on.
You can take it in baby steps, collect parts when you find them cheap, etc... have some fun and feel good for doing it all yourself.
Good luck.



Modified by bluecoast at 10:10 AM 2-17-2004
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah thats about what i had worked out mentally...
my fab skills are somewhere between ****ty and workable, but i just ordered a tig (no more evil flux cored mig spatter! YAY!) so that is why i do my own manifolds etc...
yeah from what it sounded like from my buddy, the 8 valve head is great to learn on or if you want a reliable & cheap to fix setup. he is running one in his w/ rabbit lifters big valves ceramic coatings etc etc... so rather then blow up my matching vin, running strong, 16v, it seemed like a good choice to swap in a whole aba with maybe a c2 motorsports 9:1 headgasket, fresh bearings, rings, and a reworked head.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top