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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got myself an ABA block (iceman666) and will be running this with a G60 head and a G-Lader. I was trying to figure out every part i need and what i need to modify to make this work. I'm going to try to post part #s and pics of the process for anyone wanting to do the same.
PROS:
Quote, originally posted by Geoff Rood »
11% hp/tq increase based on a displacement bump from 1.8 to 2L

Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
ABA has better stroke rod ratio.


PROBLEMS:
1:
Quote, originally posted by Pigsdofly »
ABA block with stock G60 ( pg ) head, about 10.6 to 1 ( too damn high )

Some options:
a) Stacking head gaskets.
b) BBM 2.0L Low Compression Metal Head Gasket
c) BBM Low Compression Forged Pistons
2: No oil return hole for the charger
Possible Solutions:

a) Drill a hole in the block.
Quote, originally posted by sdezego »
…There is a threaded boss ready to go for a fitting (it is there on the ABA and I am pretty sure it is there on the 9a as well). You just need to drill the blind hole into the crank case. if you look at the last picture JustMike posted, you will see the threaded boss on the G60 that I am referring to Directly between the oil dipstick and the Oil Cooler. You can see the charger return host connected to it. That same boss should be there on your block…



b) Tap the oil pan.
Quote, originally posted by sdezego »
…-4 is fine as the stock return line is ~ 1/4"…
…Either way, any where you want to make the return should be fine, but it "should" be above the oil level in the pan…

[c]) Tap the block off plate if you're not using the rear g-charger bracket (ie. lysholm, eaton, turbo, etc?) as it would be in the way, i believe.

3:
Quote, originally posted by REPOMAN »
As for the Distributor if you are using the Digifant
ECU then just swap the 2.0l dist. gear on to the g60
dist. and use the g60 dist. you will need the
adapter ring for the g60 dist. so it fits in the block
then just plug it in and go.

Solutions:
If you have a digifant distributor and an aba dist gear
Bushing to Adapt Early Distributor to 2.0L Block
If you need the gear also
2.0 Distributor Bushing and Gear Kit for ABA engine swaps
edit: the gear supplied did not work for me. see page 12.
Another option, you can use the audi 3A dizzy:
Quote, originally posted by potatonet »
3a is a direct swap as far as the distributor.
I know cause I have one =-)

If you want to run the 1.8 intermediate shaft with the stock gear on the dist. you will still need the adapter bushing above and you'll have to modify the shaft.
from http://www.geocities.com/scirocco_86_ca/
Quote, originally posted by http://www.geocities.com/scirocco_86_ca/ »
Here's some other stuff I've recently found more detail on. If you are in a situation where using a 2.0L distributor gear is not practical, it is possible is modify a 1.8L intermediate shaft so that you can run with a 1.8L distributor gear. The gear on the stock gear is too big and too wide to clear the #4 connecting rod journal. The intermediate shaft can be put in a metal turning lathe and the gear narrowed and chamfered to gain the necessary clearance and the eccentric (a relic left over from the old carbureter days) is also removed.

4: Only the early ABA block 93-94(?) has oil squirters.
Quote, originally posted by REPOMAN »

The 1996 ABA motors do
not come with the oil quarters the PG block has.

Solution:
Quote, originally posted by REPOMAN »

the machine shop should be able to port the ABA
block for them. new i paid $27 ea for the oil
squarters and $13 for 4 check seat bolts.
I believe the machine shop charged $100 to install.

5:
Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
The pistons on the G60 have ring lands set deep down to protect from detonation, the ABA sit higher and thus are weaker.

Solution:
Forged pistons (see above). i'll try to come up with a list.
Wiseco 9:1: K610M83 (83mm) or K610M835 (83.5mm)
Eurospec 8.5:1 (EFP 107 2008 4V21, i think)
Bahn Brenner 8:1 226107664
Techtonics Tuning 8.7:1 107.827
also, JRC Motorsports (Rodney) has the hookups for custom JE's (not sure if he still does)

6: Alternator height difference
Solution:
Quote, originally posted by REPOMAN »
As for the height difference on the alternator bracket that bolts to the head
Just leave the bottom bolt out

7: Rear charger bracket sticks out too far with a block off plate, and won't fit over the oil filer mount
Solutions:
shave the charger bracket the thickness of the block off plate, and notch it to clear oil filter flange

fab your own rear bracket (pics, anyone?)
[issam's handywork:]

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PARTS:
ABA Timing Belt - 056 109 119A
ABA Downpipe
Breather Block off Plate
Distributor Bushing and Gear Kit for ABA engine swaps
Knock Sensor/Detonation Sensor; 520mm with Blue Plug Connector 0261231036
thanks to:
Shawn
Issam
Don
Sam
Jonathan


Modified by deth_core at 9:09 AM 2-12-2009

Modified by deth_core at 9:40 AM 2-12-2009


Modified by deth_core at 9:45 AM 2-12-2009
 

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Re: ABA Block Build-up. parts, etc. checklist (deth_core)

Answers below in Bold:
Quote, originally posted by deth_core »
Got myself an ABA block (iceman666) and will be running this with a G60 head and a G-Lader. I was trying to figure out every part i need and what i need to modify to make this work. I'm going to try to post part #s and pics of the process for anyone wanting to do the same.
So...
The block is the early ABA block 93-94(?) which came with a forged crank and oil squirters.
The block is also bored and has low compression pistons. 9.0:1
will the compression be too high with a head that's milled 10/1000"?
You'll be fine. .010 Head shave on the 8v is not that much at all. I am guessing less than 1/4 point. If you are very interested in knowing what the compression will be, then you can calculate it. Check out this thread -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1742309
I ordered the block off plate and dizzy adapter from TT already.
If you are running the G60, just know that you will need to shave your rear charger bracket the thickness of the block off plate or the mounts will not line up with the charger
Also wondering if an aba header will work instead of an aba downpipe/ g60 exhaust manifold.
AFAIK it should work fine
And, what did you guys do for an oil return line?
There is a boss and mount in the same place on the ABA. The only problem is that it is a bind hole and does not enter the crank case. This just needs to be drilled the rest of the way through (very carefully) with a slightly smaller drill bit so you don't screw up the threads. The Pan really needs to be off for this so that metal filings don't enter the crank case.
TIA
I'll be slowly adding pics and part numbers as time goes on. probably lots more questions.

Some other things:
- ABA Timing Belt
- ABA timing belt guards (lower and metal backing shield)
- ABA Dist Gear on G60 Distributer
- you may need an adj cam gear if your head was shaved and you want your cam timing to be precise.
- Notch rear charger bracket to clear oil filter mount
Also, let me know if you need any misc stuff, ABA down pipe, guards etc. as I have a bunch of spare parts.
Shawn


Modified by sdezego at 10:22 AM 8-2-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the help.
on the head shave, i did a lot of searching and i think i calculated it out to less than 1/4 point, but i thought i'd make sure.
i have the timing belt, guards, distributor gear.
also have an adjustable cam gear for the retarded timing. people stacking head gaskets would also want one as their timing would be advanced, yah?
 

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interesting....
Im doing the same thing right now...
getting my rods shot peened and my pistons milled about 1mm to make up for the compression ratio (along with a BBM low compression 2.0L headgasket) as I was and will be boosting 18-25 psi.
nice thing for me, I dont have to run oil lines =-) I have my AMG lysholm system (sealed oil, no contact)
question I have is what do I do to block off the Crank vent spot where the freeze plug is on the G60, I was gonna swap it over but I dont know. Also the crank vent spot on the ABA (do I have to use the rubber gasket or can I use a paper gasket) I am making another bracket for my lysholm system and it will take that spot to support it.
oh and can I reuse my main bolts or should I buy new ones? they seem pretty darn hard to me...
and a 3A dizzy is a straight swap correct? (no modifying anything?)
 

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soooo what should we do about the freeze plug spot? just put a new one in without the mount for the knock sensor...
BTW can we use the Blue sensor from the 2.0L ABA motor? will it work with out digifant I systems?
 

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Re: (potatonet)

Quote, originally posted by potatonet »
soooo what should we do about the freeze plug spot? just put a new one in without the mount for the knock sensor...
BTW can we use the Blue sensor from the 2.0L ABA motor? will it work with out digifant I systems?

- Yep, just a std freeze plug.
- yes that is what I would use. All Knock sensors output 0-5v.
>Edited after verifying the part number>
As fas as the Gasket for the Breather, You can just use a paper gasket, but, the gasket from the 16v PL is the correct one.
The part number is: are 027 103 771D
I was going to order them both thinking at least one would work. I didn't want to buy a bunch of gasket material to make just one gasket and had a hard time finding some stuff locally thin enough for my liking.
Shawn


Modified by sdezego at 8:50 AM 9-17-2007
 

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ditto, but will someone please tell me where to get 42mm intake and 35mm exhaust valves for my G60 head, without paying techtonics 50% markup price?
they are on eurospecsport.com's website for 18.25 each and I have yet to find a dealer that even carries them. techtonics wants 27 for each valve, thats 80 dollars Im losing!
 

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Re: (deth_core)

well I decided on 41mm because 42mm requires new seats that have to be fitted to the head, rather have someone else do that plus I dont have the cash to buy new seats along with everything else I have to buy.
 
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