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Discussion Starter · #281 · (Edited)
Update on the shift-knob and I hope the BFI guys don't mind me being open about my experience. I love their store, their support and they seem to be very well integrated into the VW community. My personal experience with this knob is that I think I'm going to return it. It has nothing to do with looking like a knob from a clown car.

Last night, I couldn't get my car in park when I got home. Spent 30 minutes messing with the 4 screws that connect the DSG hardware to my stock lever. This morning, I couldn't get the car to stop with the error message that the car wasn't in park despite the lever locked in place. I spent 45 minutes before I even pulled out of the drive way adjusting screws and having to re zip-tie my boot back to the lever. The knob itself is loose so I tried to remove the BFI stick-on coin to adjust the Phillips head screw and I couldn't and ended up scratching the coin pretty badly despite using a very fine razor blade to get the thing off.

Guess that means I'll have to pay a hefty restocking fee.

As this is my daily driver, I can't have this sort of tomfoolery just pulling out of the drive way. I know car stuff is expensive but for $175, I can do a lot with my car and for a DSG knob, my experience with actually touching the knob is limited to 2-3 times a day. For the cost, pain in the ass aspects and the fact that it will forever be loose because I can't remove the damn coin sticker insert just means I basically am going to hate this thing every time I get in my car and once a mod makes me feel that way, I think it's time to cut my losses.

I'll reach out to the BFI guys once I have the thing uninstalled tonight. I will give it another hour to see if I can get the parking warning resolved but I don't think it's going to be that simple.

sigh.

and I think that there are car guys on this forum who have the patience or experience to fit 4 screws to a metal bolt and it work perfectly. The fact that my car either thinks it's not in park or can't get out of park is a one millimeter difference is really annoying. I'm basically experiencing 4 scenarios one at a time or two at a time

  • I over tighten screws and knob won't lift
  • I under tighten screws, knob lifts and turns in place freely yet drivability isn't impacted, it just moves and rattles
  • I put lever too low and I can't get the car out of park
  • I put lever 1 MM too high and and my car's computer says I'm not in park

can't win.
 

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and I think that there are car guys on this forum who have the patience or experience to fit 4 screws to a metal bolt and it work perfectly. The fact that my car either thinks it's not in park or can't get out of park is a one millimeter difference is really annoying. I'm basically experiencing 4 scenarios one at a time or two at a time

  • I over tighten screws and knob won't lift
  • I under tighten screws, knob lifts and turns in place freely yet drivability isn't impacted, it just moves and rattles
  • I put lever too low and I can't get the car out of park
  • I put lever 1 MM too high and and my car's computer says I'm not in park

can't win.
The thing I haven't understood from their design was the thickness of the top screw that goes through the white tab. To me that diameter is too big. In the stock version the pin that lifts up the tab is just the right size and slides freely up and down through the ear of that tab. Not so with BFI, it actually screws a little bit through the ear. The problem? You need to be very careful when installing it. The tab needs to be in the rest position and then you need to figure out a way to "screw" that bolt right at the top of the ear, otherwise you will have the problems described not being able to move through gears. Had that screw been smaller in diameter, it would have been much easier to put it all together, since you would just hold that part up, to touch the top part of the ear, when screwing the bottom part (with 4 small screws). I got it right for mine, but indeed I went through the same issue at first. That screw diameter should have definitely been smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Are you still experiencing that boost problem?

Have you tried to remove that metal engine mount insert?
Boost problems continue with no plans to remove the insert yet. I was going to wait until I returned to my UM dealer (sometime in the next month) and get the UM High Torque Downpipe File w/ DSG Tune. Right now, I'm only running the low - torque stage One UM tune that doesn't take advantage of the DP and doesn't modify any DSG control.

If the issues continue after I go full UM, I'll then consider removing the tune and the insert to get rid of the issue.
 

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How hard is it to remove the insert? There's a thread here with another guy using the same DP with none of the issues you're experiencing. So I'd work backwards and eliminate the differences between your cars. Start with the easiest, of course.

I originally figured it's something vibrational in nature, and I still do. I think the ecu is hearing this and mistaking it for knock. I wanted to rule out the bad tank of gas because that's easy to determine. I had one of the original Evo 8's with the trans being 'looser' internally and the ecu saw the noise as knock. It only went away after getting the trans rebuilt from Shep trans. But before that we had sunk dollar after dollar trying to figure out why.

Think about your mods and what you have that's different from the norm. Off the top of my head, I'm thinking insert and hard pipes. Others don't exhibit the same problems with their tune. No other problems with the same DP. I think you'd be crazy to remove the tune without trying out the two recommendations I've given.

I'm sure someone will jump in and say there's a bunch of people running inserts with no problem.......how many are running your insert type? If I recall, your car came with that goofy insert from the factory.

And no, adding extra clown mods aren't going to fix or cover up the issues you're experiencing.

Honestly, I'm just trying to help you resolve your issues. I've been around this game for awhile. Every forum has a guy just like you that has the terrible luck of experiencing the perfect ****-storm of mods. Yes, not gonna lie, I am laughing at you, but I do want you to get resolution.

If you don't want any if my help, that's cool. I wish you the best. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #286 · (Edited)
I appreciate it. I do but my reasoning was that getting this thing up on a lift takes some planning and a free day at a guy's barn 40 minutes north and once we get it on the lift and remove insert, it's time to get it out of his barn using a 2x4 wooden make-shift ramp because my car is so low so we'd be taking off insert, going for a drive, oh didn't fix it, back on the lift and back on.

that's 2+ hours of work and so my thought was I'd wait until I went to the tuner again in a few weeks (yes, a 2 hour drive) and see if that fixes it. If not, they have a lift that's way more accessible and right there, we can throw it up, remove insert and try again. their lift is new and not 40 years old and is just way easier to get on. they can also do more downpipe clocking as well.

The thing only rattles when I'm pulling out of the driveway. with normal 'going forward' driving, I don't hear any rattle or strange sounds.

the thing is, I'm not rejecting your suggestions, I'm just trying to make my life a bit easier by settling my issues in one day instead of wasting 2 hours finding out its not the insert. Car drives fine unless I push it hard which isn't that often really. I figured eventually I'd become the butt of a few jokes around here but that's what I get for doing things transparently and documenting my mis-steps. these issues will get figured out eventually.

I really don't think you're wasting your time and if I had my own garage and lift, I'd have removed the insert already.


----

another anecdote is that with this Stage I file, I really don't have to floor it anymore. going hard in this is around the 4K RPM range. If I'm at red-line, I'm probably doing 20 over the speed limit on the interstate. example, I got on the interstate yesterday and the person in the travel lane wasn't getting over to let me in and no one was on their left. I floored it to get on the interstate before them and looked down and I was doing 110. it really shook me up and freaked me out for a good 5 minutes. I felt like an ass for going that fast needlessly and like an immature jerk and yes, I still want to go stage II but I need to learn not floor it anymore. this car is so fast even with regular driving. I'll get used to that power but I only have that knock / engine issue when I floor it which is almost never. if my turbo is even hitting 25 PSI, i'm likely already past 80MPH and climbing way faster than I legally should.

I guess you can keep laughing at me for wanting more power.



Edit:
I think I'm going to take a break from the forum for a bit. I'll post some photos sunday of our Golf R meet that's happening tomorrow in western Mass but I have a lot of home server work to do this weekend and winterizing the house and other things and I think I'm just getting a bit worked up. I overthink things a lot (clearly! :) ) so thanks for the feedback. I read everything people write...in fact, I spend about 2 horus a day reading every single post on this forum so I can keep learning. thank you for the help. I just need to not worry about my car for a couple of days lol.
 

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Adam, I sympathize with your logistical issues. I have a friend with a lift that I can use any time, but he's an hour-and-a-half drive away, which basically makes using it an all day proposition. As a result I've become used to working under my car at home using jack stands. That works, but it's also a PITA.

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
looks like your car is still for sale, $28k ain't a bad price at all for a certified mk6 with 50k on the clock. I might have tried to buy that if it were avail in my area before i got my mk7. I mostly got the mk7 because the price differential between low mileage mk6s and new mk 7s was only a few grand

http://www.noyesvolkswagen.com/Vehi...R-4dr_HB_w/Sunroof_&_Navi-Keene-NH/2592294013
Wow, still for sale? amazing. I don't think they've dropped the price at all on this. I am certain it has brand new tires on it as I sold them the car with crappy Enkei wheels and tires that weren't in good shape and I threw in the stock wheels without tires on them so new tires, the maintenance was done on time and some replaced front fender work because I'm a stickler for details like scratches / rock chips. Relentless washing, leather care, etc.

I hope it goes to a good home.
 

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Your car has sold by the looks of things

Adam
You old car is no longer listed for sale at Noyes. It must have sold. I still don't have any idea when my new R ordered 8/7 will be in but I'm still have fond memories of sitting in yours before you bought it.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
Adam
You old car is no longer listed for sale at Noyes. It must have sold. I still don't have any idea when my new R ordered 8/7 will be in but I'm still have fond memories of sitting in yours before you bought it.
Bob
It took a while for them to sell it. I am curious why but maybe it was just pricing or that it probably came with summer tires w/ winter fast approaching and some buyers just get picky about those sort of things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #292 ·
Winter Mode Activated!

Advanti HY Hybris Black Painted Wheels + Blizzak LM-32 Tires (225/45R-17)

I asked the guys if they could try to do the spacers w/ the new tires. We put them on and it just wasn't a great fit so I'm riding w/o spacers. Allows me more room in the wheel for ice and snow debris.



















Ride quality is such a huge difference from the 19" + Cadiz. Comfort mode actually feels comfortable now like way more than I was expecting. Car feels a bit more agile. Really happy with the setup. I think 17" Wheels do like weird on this car but it's winter-time and you gotta be practical.
 

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I agree with you. I already had a barely used set of Blizzak WS80's that were 215/45/17's. I picked up a cheap set of 17" wheels at Tire rack and I am ready for winter. These tires are a little louder but they do amazing in the snow (this is going to be my third winter on them). 17's look small (especially 215's) but I did not want to spend the $$ on 18" wheels and snow tires. Wheels here in the winter take a beating too..

Supposed to snow this week here and I can't wait to do some drifting. So much fun.

Love your car, you have done some really nice things without going over the top (which is my style too). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #296 ·
Pretty sure I'm the owner of Adams old car haha. It went to a good home ;)

Holy crap. are you for real? Can you post a photo? You have a build thread? I'd love to follow your progress. holy crap. I've sold a lot of cars and never make contact with the buyer. Let me know if you need anything.

Also do you guys know if these 17" wheels would fit the MK6 R?
They should fit. The MK6 R brakes are identical or smaller. You may have to post to the MK6 R forum w/ wheel dimensions to make sure no rubbing will occur.
 

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Holy crap. are you for real? Can you post a photo? You have a build thread? I'd love to follow your progress. holy crap. I've sold a lot of cars and never make contact with the buyer. Let me know if you need anything.



They should fit. The MK6 R brakes are identical or smaller. You may have to post to the MK6 R forum w/ wheel dimensions to make sure no rubbing will occur.
I will make a build thread today haha. I only have a couple of pics so far! I do have a couple of questions for ya. But I will inbox them! I'll link the build thread here shortly. And yea I am pretty excited that I found the previous owner and know that the car was well cared for!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #298 ·
I will make a build thread today haha. I only have a couple of pics so far! I do have a couple of questions for ya. But I will inbox them! I'll link the build thread here shortly. And yea I am pretty excited that I found the previous owner and know that the car was well cared for!!
sweet, yeah I figured there would be questions. I'll do my best to answer any. This is like one of those missed connections. Lol. I miss that car though. Such a fun V-Dub. The MK7 is a better car IMO but the MK6 was nimble, more responsive, better turning radius and it was manual. sigh. :)

alright, chat with you via PM.
 

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sweet, yeah I figured there would be questions. I'll do my best to answer any. This is like one of those missed connections. Lol. I miss that car though. Such a fun V-Dub. The MK7 is a better car IMO but the MK6 was nimble, more responsive, better turning radius and it was manual. sigh. :)

alright, chat with you via PM.
Haha yea I almost got a mk7! Heres the beginnings of my build thread :)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Build-Thread&p=90563297&posted=1#post90563297
 

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Also do you guys know if these 17" wheels would fit the MK6 R?
Yes they should.

They should fit. The MK6 R brakes are identical or smaller. You may have to post to the MK6 R forum w/ wheel dimensions to make sure no rubbing will occur.
Actually the MK7 R has smaller rotors than the all other R's - 340mm vs 345mm for the other generations. Caliper design is very similar but a bit different. With that said, any wheel that fits a MK7R should fit the MK5&6 R too, and vice versa. :beer:
 
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