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Picked up:
Metal License Plate Frame - http://www.ebay.com/itm/162082462328
&
Wolfsburg / Germany Badge Emblems - http://www.ebay.com/itm/141958088353


Not sure I'll keep these on. They are metal but also just adhesive. I should have put the Wolfsburg emblem to the right about half an inch...an easy fix really. I desperately needed a new license plate cover. I feel it might look a little too ricey. I'll solicit feedback this weekend at Eurokracy and see if I should keep them or not.
Personally not a fan of the badges. Why not get the "R-Line" license plate frame?
 

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Discussion Starter · #562 ·
Personally not a fan of the badges. Why not get the "R-Line" license plate frame?
I had this one:



It's Black-painted and started to chip and rust. looked pretty bad. I didn't want a repeat although it did last 4 years.

Yeah, I'm also meh on the badges. they were relatively cheap for a try-out mod.
 

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I had this one:



It's Black-painted and started to chip and rust. looked pretty bad. I didn't want a repeat although it did last 4 years.

Yeah, I'm also meh on the badges. they were relatively cheap for a try-out mod.
Ah gotcha. I have the same one on mine (and probably 99% of other R owners). I'd say lasting 4 years is good for the weather you have up there though
 

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Discussion Starter · #564 ·
XuJi Black Suede Steering Wheel Cover (Top Bottom Black Leather + Left Right Black Holes Leather + Blue Stitching Thread)

Top Bottom Black Leather + Left Right Black Holes Leather + Blue Stitching Thread was what I asked for.

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Installation, took a very long time. That's pretty much all I have to say. If you watch the video, I do offer some tips but mostly, be patient, try to pull threads as tight as you can to eliminate gaps. Doing the top part first does make it easy. Tape is not required except for the left & right corners (where your thumbs can rest) and the back of the bottom pillar where the leather won't sit flat.

You don't have to remove the steering wheel but at least remove the DSG paddles to make your job much easier. Taking the steering wheel off probably made the install twice as hard but it made the stitching much easier so decide which works for you.

Impressions:
Still a few bumps that may work themselves out. I don't like that the leather doesn't lay flat on the pillars. nothing I can do now except start over w/ tape applied. the feel when driving is WAY better. feels like my old MK6 Golf R steering wheel. I'd really hate to go back to stock. The blue stitching matches my BFI Shift knob perfectly.


Photos:






































Video: (How to remove the Golf R MK7 Steering Wheel + Install Xuji Steering Wheel Leather Wrap)

 

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Discussion Starter · #565 ·
Audi S3/ MK7 Golf R Resonator Delete Kit 8V5-071-904

Purchased the S3/Golf R Resonator Delete from Deutsche Auto Parts. Beware, the ECS Tuning part available is cheaper by $40 but is missing one of the essential clamps. Just by from DAP. They shipped within 10 minutes of me ordering.

Buy here: https://deutscheautoparts.com/audi-s3-oem-resonator-delete-8v5071904.html

Photos:







Before: Bull-X 3" Catted DP w/ Exhaust Heat Wrap & stock exhaust















After:














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There was a slight exhaust leak coming out of my DP to the resonator connection. The mechanic put in some black lube stuff (very technical here) to seal up that leak and he said it wasn't a huge leak but will help a bit. Everything fit perfectly.

Initial thoughts.

Great at WOT, too loud around town especially in S-DSG mode. No highway drone, slight vibration in the arm-rest when on throttle at any speed, I think it's too loud but I'll close 2 of the 4 valves and see if that helps.

It's fully reversible but I see no reason why I won't keep it.

Here's a video:

 

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Overall great job on the leather steering wheel wrap, Looks awesome! (The little wrinkles in the lower corners look unavoidable but would drive my OCD crazy though). I love the blue stitching.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #567 ·
I flashed my car to the latest United Motorsport file which both Fred & Jeff were pressuring me to get ASAP.

Before Flash:


After Flash:


Both times, oil was at standard highway temps, We used the DynoMite on FWD Only w/ Rear Haldex controller disconnected. We did a 3rd run right after the 2nd (after flash) tune and received identical results (1 HP difference).

I lost some torque but if it's better for my engine, no complaints here.


As usual, photos, videos and all of that fancy crap will come tomorrow. I gotta get some sleep.
Video & Photos:






350 HP
351 torque
 

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Discussion Starter · #569 ·
Do you disconnect the rear driveshaft when you dyno in fwd? I have researched this and it seems that it is not good for the clutches to dyno with the rear wheels stationary even with the fuse pulled, or haldex disconnected.
I've heard similar but with this setup, we haven't experienced a better solution. Dyno-Mode causes bad shake, AWD w/ all 4 wheels up also shakes badly. This is the only one that worked. but yeah, sorry we did physically disconnect the rear.
 

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I've heard similar but with this setup, we haven't experienced a better solution. Dyno-Mode causes bad shake, AWD w/ all 4 wheels up also shakes badly. This is the only one that worked. but yeah, sorry we did physically disconnect the rear.
Awesome!

Also how was the track last night? Any videos? I really wanted to make it, but between school full time and work full time, I just couldn't manage :(
 

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Was looking for weather tech floor mat opinions and stumbled back on this thread. What ever happened to this guy? He used to post 10x a day. Is he still alive?
 

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I see his car around occasionally, he just doesn't post much on here anymore. It sucks, he had a pretty good build thread going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #575 · (Edited)
I see his car around occasionally, he just doesn't post much on here anymore. It sucks, he had a pretty good build thread going.
I keep the build-thread 1st post updated. will do another update this week with some of the small changes.


Edit: First Post updated. Scheduling Dyno for a few weeks from now.
 

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I keep the build-thread 1st post updated. will do another update this week with some of the small changes.
Edit: First Post updated. Scheduling Dyno for a few weeks from now.
Adam, I see from your updated first post that your original steel replacement oil pan rusted through, and that you replaced it with a painted stainless steel version from USP (Your link: https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engine/Oil-Service/Steel-Oil-Pan-Conversion-Kit.html).

I don't see anything on their web page to suggest that USP pan is stainless, and the $54 price confirms that it's unlikely. In fact all those replacement steel pans seem to be the exact same stock VW part from another engine application. Compare it with the one sold by ECS, which appears identical (link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/steel-oil-pan-kit/018573ecs01kt1/).

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #578 ·
Adam, I see from your updated first post that your original steel replacement oil pan rusted through, and that you replaced it with a painted stainless steel version from USP (Your link: https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engine/Oil-Service/Steel-Oil-Pan-Conversion-Kit.html).

I don't see anything on their web page to suggest that USP pan is stainless, and the $54 price confirms that it's unlikely. In fact all those replacement steel pans seem to be the exact same stock VW part from another engine application. Compare it with the one sold by ECS, which appears identical (link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/steel-oil-pan-kit/018573ecs01kt1/).

Neil
I should cover the issue more as I didn't really talk about it here since I wasn't actively posting.

At the time of my Frost-heave Plastic Oil Pan incident last year, Haus of Dub was the only place selling a replacement kit. ECS quickly jumped on the band-wagon a few days after my incident claiming they had one in the works for some time :screwy: but they're ****-heads and I don't have any issue saying it here banner advertiser or not.

One year after install, the Haus of Dub oil pan was rusting through. I tried to treat it with rust-paint and some generous wire-brushing and I didn't have confidence on it lasting another Winter. I reached out to the company as I was within their warranty...zero replies to 3 emails I sent them. I know they're a member here. They straight up ignored my requests for a replacement.

I was going to go back to OEM and work with a few companies on testing a skid-plate that I knew some people are working on that's name doesn't start with ECS and I saw someone here on Vortex selling a never used USP steel oil pan and bought it I think for $40 shipped.

I don't dispute that it's not stainless. You're probably right. I'll update the first post and add here publicly. I'd like to get a skid plate installed...I'm happy to be a tester for anyone that wants me to be and I'd gladly go back to stock plastic once I have one that works.

Honestly, a skid plate will still allow some wet salty crap to get on the oil pan while barreling down the highway and it'll eventually still rust out. Plastic doesn't rust and if protected, I don't mind running an OEM pan.
 

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I should cover the issue more as I didn't really talk about it here since I wasn't actively posting.

At the time of my Frost-heave Plastic Oil Pan incident last year, Haus of Dub was the only place selling a replacement kit. ECS quickly jumped on the band-wagon a few days after my incident claiming they had one in the works for some time :screwy: but they're ****-heads and I don't have any issue saying it here banner advertiser or not.

One year after install, the Haus of Dub oil pan was rusting through. I tried to treat it with rust-paint and some generous wire-brushing and I didn't have confidence on it lasting another Winter. I reached out to the company as I was within their warranty...zero replies to 3 emails I sent them. I know they're a member here. They straight up ignored my requests for a replacement.

I was going to go back to OEM and work with a few companies on testing a skid-plate that I knew some people are working on that's name doesn't start with ECS and I saw someone here on Vortex selling a never used USP steel oil pan and bought it I think for $40 shipped.

I don't dispute that it's not stainless. You're probably right. I'll update the first post and add here publicly. I'd like to get a skid plate installed...I'm happy to be a tester for anyone that wants me to be and I'd gladly go back to stock plastic once I have one that works.

Honestly, a skid plate will still allow some wet salty crap to get on the oil pan while barreling down the highway and it'll eventually still rust out. Plastic doesn't rust and if protected, I don't mind running an OEM pan.
Adam, I see from your updated first post that your original steel replacement oil pan rusted through, and that you replaced it with a painted stainless steel version from USP (Your link: https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engine/Oil-Service/Steel-Oil-Pan-Conversion-Kit.html).

I don't see anything on their web page to suggest that USP pan is stainless, and the $54 price confirms that it's unlikely. In fact all those replacement steel pans seem to be the exact same stock VW part from another engine application. Compare it with the one sold by ECS, which appears identical (link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/steel-oil-pan-kit/018573ecs01kt1/).

Neil
you guys should look into this company. nice crew out of Georgia. met them at WF. They do their own work and welds. Basically it's a steel pan and heavy plating welded on. I doubt the frost heaves you mention would bend this thing. I am happy with it thus far. been through one NE winter so far..one minus is, that it adds weight. i'm willing to live with that for protection.
enjoy!!
https://savagechassis.com/collectio...products/mk7-1-8-2-0-reinforced-steel-oil-pan
 

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Honestly, a skid plate will still allow some wet salty crap to get on the oil pan while barreling down the highway and it'll eventually still rust out. Plastic doesn't rust and if protected, I don't mind running an OEM pan.
Adam, thanks for the clarification.

Back when I bought my 2015 I decided to go with the stock oil pan plus skid plate combo, importing an original VW skid plate via e-acca from Latvia. Not especially cheap, since it's a bit bulky to ship, but it's properly designed and fits well. There's full coverage and a NACA duct to bring cooling air to the transmission. Unlike some aftermarket skid pans it has hard point mounting points to the chassis both at the back (subframe) and via steel brackets at the front. It's constructed from fiber-reinforced moulded composite.

https://flic.kr/p/G3M9xq

Likely overkill for me, since I don't live in a rural area and don't have to protect against your NH ocean wave scale frost heaves. Good to have that sense of security though.

Neil
 
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