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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*(Moderator, my appologies if this DIY has been placed in the wrong location, please relocate if need be, Thank you)*

Before you attempt to accomplish this task please note; this is not the easiest to do thing by far on the B5 series. If you have done a clutch job and felt fairly competent, you should not have too many difficulties or head scratching moments. This job was completed in about 5 hours using nothing other than hand tools, jacks and stands completed under a carport. I am fairly confident I could do it in half of the time had it been done in a garage. I was prompted to replace my oil pan afty my wife hit an "unknown object" in the road which resulted in a nice hole and the entire underbody coated in oil. Proceed at your own risk, this is how I completed the task, results may vary. I will not be held responsible for damages to you, your equipment or vehicle.

This procedure is slightly different than the other DIY previously posted on the Vortex (I believe the other post was an ATW motor :confused: )

You will need:

5mm Long Allen Wrench or socket attachment
6mm, 8 mm Allen wrench
10mm-19mm Sockets
10mm-18mm Wrenches
T40 & T45 Socket
Extensions (your preference)
2 Jacks of some kind.
Block of wood
Breaker bar or long object to pry with
Jack stands

Optional:

Torque Wrench (Torque specs located @ http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecmm.aspx?KI=21 )
Straight Slot Screwdriver
Flash Light
Partner
Remove Tires/Rims (extra room to work)

First Step: Unhook battery. (To ensure no bare wires arc or electronics become damaged)

Second Step: Jack the vehicle up a decent amount; you are going to need a significant amount of elbow room under the vehicle for working and supporting the trans/motor. Place jack stands in appropriate locations to support the front of the vehicle.

Third Step: If you still have one, remove your belly pan (Plastic under cover) to expose the area you'll be working on.

Fourth Step: Remove Bumper lower air duct vents. This allows acces to the bolts that retain the bumper cover to the bumper support rods.

Fifth Step: Locate these two bolts. There is one locate on each side of the bumper.

If there are any screws holding the bumper cover to the wheel well/ splash guards, remove these as well.

After bolt removal, pull the bumper away from the front of the vehicle, there are two clips located on each fender holding the bumper to the fender. You will have to pull out away from the fender while pushing down and out to remove the bumper cover on each side.



You should be left with something that looks like this. Your vehicle at this point will obviously still have your headlights on. (This picture was taken after Step Seven)



Sixth Step: Locate the brackets holding the ac condenser to the radiator support on both sides. Remove 10mm screws.



Unhook the electrical connection located on the ac condensor. You can swing the condenser to the passenger side of the vehicle and have it out of your way, so you don't have to recharge your ac system after the job. Just be careful not to break anything.

Optional: remove condenser

Seventh Step: Remove headlight bolts and remove headlights.



Twist/ press to release bulbs from housing



Step Eight: Remove Torx screws holding radiator support. Do this for each side







Step Nine: Remove boost hose(s) clamps





Step Ten: Remove Radiator Retainer Pins



I used a small screwdriver to pry it out, use caution when removing. There is a small tab you have to push inward as you pry upwards. These are old and are more than likely brittle.





Step Eleven: Remove bolts from the bumper bars. (Mine had a combination of bolts due to previously loosing bolts from a different repair project) Yours may differ slightly. There should be 4 regardless. There should also be a nut on each side (See small threaded silver rod protruding) which holds the radiator support to the boost tube/motor mount (mine were missing but unless you have removed and lost them previously, they should still be there)





Step Twelve:

I had just flushed my cooling system and replaced all hoses and heater core so I did not wish to replace new coolant. The way I completed this task left the coolant system untouched. If you would like to flush your system or replace your coolant than skip this step.

Wiggle the radiator support out/ while pulling slightly away from the front of the car and slide the boost tube/motor mount down from between the radiator support and the frame of the car. (Partner here would help). Keep an eye on the tie down ring on the passenger side because it may get caught on the radiator support on the way down/ out.





Optional: Unhook horn, Unhook coolant fan control switch (under lower radiator hose) Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and remove the radiator and radiator support,

Step Thirteen: Support the motor and transmission.



I placed a block of wood between the jack and Trans, and supported the motor using the bracket on the ac compressor (my ac is inoperable so I didn't mind, and most of the weight will be on the transmission jack)



Step Fourteen: Remove the front motor mount. It should be held in place by three bolts on the front facing toward the front of the car.



Step Fifteen: Remove the two motor mount plate bolts. There is one on each side attaching to support rods that attach further to the motor block. ( If you would like you can loosen these at their other mounting point ( on the block) to allow manipulation of the support rods)



I used a screwdriver to give me additional room for the next step for removal and installation.



Step Sixteen: Loosen the 6mm Allen bolt where the pulley pivots.




Loosen the 6mm Allen bolt used to tighten the position of the pulley/ bracket to release tension off of the belt. Push the tension pulley/ bracket up until you can remove the ac belt. Remove the belt; remove the 6mm Allen bolt from the point where it pivots, and the 6mm Allen bolt used to tighten the location of the pulley. The pulley should be able to be removed from the compressor housing.

Step Seventeen: There is a 6mm Allen bolt between the pulley/bracket pivot screw and the tension screw locations. These hold the Motor mount plate to the motor and need to be removed as well.



There is an additional 6mm Allen bolt located above the other 6mm Allen bolt.



There is a 13mm nut and washer to the right of the crank shaft pulley, unfortunately I could not photo it. I used a 1/4" long 13mm (slim) to remove the nut. This holds the bracket to the block and needs to be removed as well.


(Unseen) it is located in the upper right portion of the bracket.



Step Eighteen: Remove the motor mount plate. Should look a little like this. (Unfortunately it is impossible to remove the oil pan without removing this mount plate due to the position of the oil pan bolts.)



Step Nineteen: Remove the nuts that go to the motor mounts and transmission mounts. All should be 15mm.

Driver side mount


Passenger side mount


Transmission Mount (passenger side)


Not Pictured (Driver side transmission mount) goes from Transmission to suspension frame.

Step Twenty: Loosen the suspension frame bolts located near the rear of the lower control arms. DO NOT REMOVE COMPLETELY. Loosen until the head of the bolt protrudes and the washer portion of the bolt is flush with the silver mounting bracket surface. This will allow the suspension to stay intact and give us enough play to remove the oil pan. These should be 18mm. There is one located on both passenger and driver side of the vehicle.



Notice how the bolt washer portion is flush and the head of the bolt is protruding. This is how the bolts should stay during the removal of the oil pan.



Step Twenty One: Jack the Transmission up till it begins to rise slightly upward.

Step Twenty Two: Remove the sway bar linkage nuts. (16mm) One per side



Step Twenty Three. Remove the three large bolts on each side supporting the suspension frame to the chassis.





*NOTE* you may have same large bolts/ nut holding the suspension frame to the chassis located adjacent to the three bolts you have removed. Be sure to remove these as further progression will be near impossible without prior removal. (Mine had been removed by the P/O)

(Large hole in the upper portion of the picture is where your bolt/ nut may be) (One per side)


The complete lower sway bar/ motor mount combination should be able to be completely removed at this point.

Step Twenty Four: Remove the oil return line from the oil pan 2x10mm bolts



Step Twenty Five: Place a breaker bar or 2x4 or other device between the suspension frame and the motor or chassis (find a suitable location) to pry downwards to give you more room to reach these bolts that mount the oil pan to the transmission housing. Remove these bolts. I believe there are 3 mounting to the bell housing and 3 going directly up (mounting to the motor). I placed a breaker bar under the driver side drive shaft as close to the trans as possible, and over the suspensions frame, and pried down to give me clearance. You don't need to exert much force to gain room.

Optional: Assistant to pry down to allow you free rane of motion.



Step Twenty Six: located these horribly placed 5mm Allen bolts that hold the oil pan to the block. You will need to use a socket, or breaker bar, to turn the crank (19mm) until the flat spot in the flywheel allows you room to access these hidden bolts. (I used a 5mm allen key I had cut the 90 degree angle off of, and stuck in a 5mm socket)

Optional: flashlight, and assistant to turn the crank.

Before rotating



After rotating



Do this for both holes. (There are only two)



Step Twenty Seven: remove the remaining 5mm Allen bolts holding the oil pan to the motor.

Step Twenty Eight: Pry down on the suspension frame and remove the Oil Pan. Use caution, you don't want to break the plastic anti slosh device in the pan.



Step Twenty Nine: remove the old oil pan gasket. And pieces.

Step Thirty: Replace the old oil pan and gasket with the new one. It is helpful at this point to have an assistant to pry down on the suspension while you wiggle the pan into place. I used a rubber gasket which did not require the use of RTV. It is a tight squeeze to get the pan in there and I would not suggest using a gasket that requires the use of sealant. Placing the oil pan and gasket back in place while trying to keep the anti slosh device, and prying down on the suspension frame is by far the most frustrating parts of this job, but hang in there you are almost done.


*NOTE* if you have ordered a new pan, but comes with the oil level sensor hole (Our AEB motors don't utilize this sensor location) you may be able to craft your own cover for the location by using your old oil pan . Make a template, locate a good section of the old oil pan, cut it out, drill holes and seal with RTV. This Took me about 2 hours from making the template to finish.

Note old oil pan in background





CONGRATULATIONS. You just finished replacing the oil pan. :beer:

Installation is the same as removal. At this point it would be wise to replace motor mounts, transmission mounts, oil, oil filter, and gear oil (I did). If you decide to attempt to complete said tasks there are additional DIY walkthroughs on the Vortex and Google. I will say upon replacing mounts and putting the Pennzoil Synchromesh in the Trans, it shifts amazingly now.

Installation: Is basically

Replace all oil pan bolts.
Put the sway bar back on.
Jack up the suspension or push it up until you can get the bolts threaded. Tighten
Tighten the rear lower control arm bolts
Lower Trans
Bolt all of the mounts/ Trans mounts up
Put the front mount plate back on
Put the ac pulley back on, put belt on
Put the front mount on
Put the boost tube configuration back in its location between the radiator support and the frame.
Secure the radiator support, radiator, and bumper bars (the bars protruding out away from the front of the car)
Put the condenser back on
Put the headlights in and hook up.
Install the bumper cover and two bolts going upwards that hold it on.
Enjoy saving yourself $400-$600 bucks.
Take a shower.
 
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