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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had been thinking about adding a set of front fog lights to our '11 SportWagen (a.k.a. Golf Variant) for a while.
After doing a bit of research on this, I found that our wagen is configured with the basic CECM/BCM (J519), which isn't provisioned to operate separate front fog lights. So we would need to do this as simple on/off switched lights.

Sourced parts from eBay include (1) a standard Euro switch (5ND941431A) that controls headlights, parking lights, front & rear fog lights; (2) fog light relay trigger repair wire (00979009E); and the Spyder Golf/Jetta SportWagen clear fog light kit (5076182). Total cost under $100.

Installation the other day was straightforward, mostly. Some notes:
  1. Remove the battery to get access to the body ground point on the left wheel well wall and the lower firewall for passing the relay trigger wire through the rubber grommet just outboard the clutch master cylinder.
  2. Use a long pick tool to pierce the rubber firewall grommet from inside the car to ensure clear passage of the trigger wire.
  3. Remove the original lower bumper cover fascia by loosening the snap clips starting at the inboard lower corner. Snap clips are located at the lower inboard corner (2), inboard edge of lower grill, and at the center interior (2). With all snap clips released, swivel the fascia around the outboard mounting tab and pull fascia out at an angle to prevent breaking the mounting tab (I managed to break both, as the service manual says only to "pull forward" to remove).
  4. Route the supplied wire harness from behind the left/driver headlight so that the two HB4 female connectors are located properly.
  5. For each side in turn, attach the connector to the HB4 bulb, slide the two lamp assembly mounting fingers into the inboard slots, align the screw tab with the hole in the bumper cover, and mount with supplied screw.
  6. I took unswitched power for the supplied wire harness (white wire) from Fuse Panel A using the threaded connection to the right of the battery cable. I was already using this connection for a CTEK battery charger quick connect cable, so already had hardware for the connection there (stainless washer & 8 mm nut).
  7. The ground wire of the supplied wire harness (black) was connected to the left side ground point noted above.
  8. Pass a length of small gauge trigger wire (22-18 gauge) through the rubber grommet in the firewall as noted above. Route from near the dash light switch to the area behind the left headlight.
  9. With the 10 terminal headlight connector removed from the original switch, use a small pick tool to pry open the terminal lock on the side with terminal 5; this permits the repair wire 00979009E terminal to be inserted into the connector cavity. Note the orientation of the terminal latch while inserting. With the terminal inserted fully and latched in position, press the terminal lock cover until it snaps closed. Use a small cable tie to hold the new trigger wire to the light switch wire harness cable.
  10. Cut the repair wire 00979009E in half and connect to the trigger wire with a crimp connector. Reassemble with the new "euro" light switch.
  11. In the engine compartment, the supplied wire harness has a three wire connector attached to red, white, and black wires. The white wire here is the relay trigger wire; the other two wires are required by the supplied on/off switch, are not used here. Cut the white wire from the white connector and attach to the trigger wire from the headlight switch with a crimp connector.
  12. Reinstall the battery and test for proper fog light function when the euro headlight switch is pulled out once; depending on how the switch is wired, parking lights might also turn on (ours has this).
  13. The supplied fascia was mostly correct for our bumper cover, except for the (1) width of the outboard mounting tab and (2) thickness of the inboard snap clip that inserts into the lower grill. I used a flat metal file to reduce the width of the mount tab and thickness of the snap clip on both fascia pieces until the fascia would install without having to apply too much force. With any luck, we won't need to replace the supplied HB4 bulbs any time soon, hence needing to remove these ill-fitting aftermarket fascia.
  14. Clear the open switch E1 DTC from address 09 with your favorite VAG diag tool. Done.
Original fascia removed. Mounting tab fits into lower slot on right, center snaps fit into horizontal slots on left.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire

Unswitched power from Fuse Pane A:
Vehicle Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Auto part

Battery removed. Body ground point below battery ground connection. Relay trigger wire routed to firewall grommet.
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Plant

Headlight switch connector with open terminal 5 position. Side covers are the connector terminal locks, use a small pick tool along the top edge to pry the lock open, after which the repair wire terminal can be inserted into the connector cavity. Our harness is already wired for parking lights (terminal 3).
Automotive lighting Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design

Image of connector with terminal lock in open position:

Standard Euro headlight switch, one pull turns on parking & front fog lights.
Steering part Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Personal luxury car

Aftermarket fascia installed, fit along lower center grill not perfect, same on the right side, alas.
Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Car Automotive lighting Automotive tail & brake light
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