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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

I feel like i have exhausted all of my efforts. I cannot get my car to stop developing air bubbles in my passenger rear brake. I have a mopar master that is split with two lines: front and back. I can bleed the system and all is fine. I have great brake pressure, but after couple days, I loose all of it.

Now during the bleed process, my front brakes and my driver rear are just fine, no air in them, its always that my rear passenger gets a lot of air. I have re-bled my brakes over 5 times now and I even replaced the master thinking it was bad, but no luck.

Is it possible that I can get air into the brake without seeing a leak somewhere, as the entire brake system is dry.
 

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You could be sucking in air at the rear cylinders. You could be leaking brake fluid inside the booster. I've never seen air introduced to the hydraulic system by the booster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I haven't even thought about the cylinders they are after all 41 years old. I removed the drum and had Noosh apply brake pressure.

1st press, only left side moved as seen in picture
2nd press, brake fluid shot out 6 feet, after only left side of cylinder moved again

Now my question is did this happen because the cylinder is bad or because i removed the drum

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So after further inspection, I noticed that the pushrod was not centered properly. Green Arrow shows the little notch where it needs to sit but its sitting much lower. After I snapped this into place, i noticed that the right shoe became more lose. I was able to manipulate both sides a bit easier.

the red arrows show how I belive this caused the left shoe to push out and right shoe would not budge, hence the cylinder opening on one side and spitting brake fluid.

I hope this was the issue and that its a easy fix. I ordered a new cylinder so will find out soon.


 

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I hope you ordered two cylinders. If you are correct that it's 41 years old, as far as I'm concerned, I would replace everything [except for the metal lines]. Everything else is a wear item and it all wears out over time. Sitting or driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One more thing, you should not apply the brakes with the drums off. The cylinder is not designed to operate without the drums being on.
yes, I ordered two, no point of replacing just one. I did learn that i should not apply brake without drum.lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I mean are the pads breaking off from the backing plate.
The pad looks a little chipped and like it's not connected to the backing shoe.
Near the top on the right one.
I think its just the angle, the shoes look fine. So the most i have even been involved with the rear of the car during my 10 year of ownership was doing the wheel bearings. Having said that, another thing i found was a a random washer right in between of the pushrod and the spring behind it, which i think contributed to the sticky shoe that forced the valve to only open on one side and over travel shooting brake fluid out.

I should be getting the new valves today and am hoping to work on the truck. keeping my fingers crossed it all works out.
 

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Hydraulics is a lot like electronics. The fluid will go to the place that has less resistance. It would be almost impossible for both pistons on that cylinder to move the same.

When the brakes are applied, one of the shoes will be forced into the drum which forces the other shoe to engage. There is a bit more into this type of brakes, but that the gist of how it works.

You better know how the brakes are suppose to hook up, thinking that it's right is not good enough. Thinking could kill you or someone else.
 

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With the ease of finding most of the parts on mk4 cars I would just replace all with rear disc.
You have an amazing show truck so it really makes sense. You won't really have better braking though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
With the ease of finding most of the parts on mk4 cars I would just replace all with rear disc.
You have an amazing show truck so it really makes sense. You won't really have better braking though.
Given that I have mechanical Brakes w/o booster, and Have Schmitd Wheels that cover the whole brake set up and the fact as you mentioned, will not help any with braking, i dont see a point of getting discs. I barely put 500 miles on the truck annually, so its not like its going tracking.
 

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Given that I have mechanical Brakes w/o booster, and Have Schmitd Wheels that cover the whole brake set up and the fact as you mentioned, will not help any with braking, i dont see a point of getting discs. I barely put 500 miles on the truck annually, so its not like its going tracking.
That makes sense. I agree with you. Although swapping out the shoes might make you change your mind. Its one of the biggest pain in the ass things you can do on a rabbit. 🙂
 
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