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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious on what people are running for an alignment.. toe caster and camber front and rear. Especially interested in mk1 chassis but anything i guess will give me guidelines.
 

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The above post is so true. Problem seems to be that most of the people who really raced MK1's and knew their stuff have moved on. Here is my setup, I don't think I've finished out of the top 5 this year (raw times excluding carts) but there always seem to be a Z06's or S200 that is better driven. One of these days I'll land a FTD but until then....

Front:
-2.75 camber
tow OUT around 1/16"
max caster (I am running offset derlin bushings)

Rear:
(not adjustable so have to use shims)
-2 camber
I believe it has 1/32" toe IN right now
caster n/a

That is what I am running right now. I've tried other variations but my car is handling better now than ever before. Tires will also play a role in how much camber you run since some like more or less but that is something you will need to experiment with. I am running Hankook Z214 tires.

I will stress this. Everyone focuses on the front alignment specs and most are running almost identical setups. Somewhere 2.5 to 3.5 negative camber, a bit of tow out and max caster. Same old story but don't overlook the rear specs. The rear does make a difference and worth the effort. Can't remember the website, but do a google search and you'll find it. With the site, you take your current rear specs and your desired rear specs key them into the site and they will custom machine a solid metal shim. Pretty slick product and I believe it was only $35 per corner.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The above post is so true. Problem seems to be that most of the people who really raced MK1's and knew their stuff have moved on. Here is my setup, I don't think I've finished out of the top 5 this year (raw times excluding carts) but there always seem to be a Z06's or S200 that is better driven. One of these days I'll land a FTD but until then....

Front:
-2.75 camber
tow OUT around 1/16"
max caster (I am running offset derlin bushings)

Rear:
(not adjustable so have to use shims)
-2 camber
I believe it has 1/32" toe IN right now
caster n/a

That is what I am running right now. I've tried other variations but my car is handling better now than ever before. Tires will also play a role in how much camber you run since some like more or less but that is something you will need to experiment with. I am running Hankook Z214 tires.

I will stress this. Everyone focuses on the front alignment specs and most are running almost identical setups. Somewhere 2.5 to 3.5 negative camber, a bit of tow out and max caster. Same old story but don't overlook the rear specs. The rear does make a difference and worth the effort. Can't remember the website, but do a google search and you'll find it. With the site, you take your current rear specs and your desired rear specs key them into the site and they will custom machine a solid metal shim. Pretty slick product and I believe it was only $35 per corner.
thanks for the helpful input. I was mainly interested in the rears actually. I have a little toe in on mine and was thinking I want to make it toe out a hair instead. Im having difficulty finding a shop that will mess with the rear. even the "local scca recommended performance alignment shop" wont deal with it because I did a disc swap and they dont want to have to deal with shimming the calipers as well. I typically run a full good year slick on my car, unless its a chilly day or rain then i run dunlop star specs.
 

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If you know your current alignment, you can buy shims that will correct to the amount you want, then head back to the shop for a frt end alignment if the rear was not square to begin w/. I've found that unless I'm doing HUGE changes in toe and camber, the caliper doesn't have to be shimmed much at all. A couple of washers and it can easily be corrected. This can be done at home, if your shop does not want to do it.
 

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I have rear disks so dont let that stop you from getting the alignment nailed down.

The shop that did my alignment is owned by a local SCCA auto-xer and his head mechanic is also a racer. They've both been to nationals the past several years and have trophied in XP so they both know what they are doing when it comes to setting up an auto-x car.

Regarding toe OUT in the rear... that may work for you but I've had cars that were too loose in the rear and that doesn't suit my driving style. Even with a bit of toe IN in the rear I can put an extra couple of pounds of air in the rear tires and slide the back end around at will.

With this setup, my current weight distribution, amount of power, brake proportioning, tires, pressure, etc my car is very neutral but you may prefer things a bit looser. I just hate that feeling of taking a long sweeper and the rear starting to step out and the only choice you have is stay in the throttle which is OK at times but not always. I'd prefer a little bit of push in this situation which I feel can often be overcome by driving smoother or proper entry speed.

Driving a supercharged Elise all last year really opened my eyes to driving smooth. That thing would bite you in the ass any time you gave it the opportunity.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Driving a supercharged Elise all last year really opened my eyes to driving smooth. That thing would bite you in the ass any time you gave it the opportunity.
the car i just got is a supercharged mk1 scirocco so i kind of have the feeling of just nailing the right smooth speed. I have it corner balanced and weighted out best i could.

I found Lella Autosport which custom makes shims as stated up above. Just type in your current settings and your desired and they custom make a shim and pretty cheap. Been talking with them a bit. Said disc shouldnt be a problem. espically since i did 16v scirocco disc (rather than mk4 disc swap) because the caliper mounts to spindle so when you shim spindle it should move caliper with it. Worse comes to worse grab some thin washers and i can get the calipers better if need be.

 
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