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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Previously : 6200 red light comes on battery
Now: 3500 red light comes on battery. Red light indicates < 12.5V situation.
Output at battery when cold: 12.5V
Output at alternator when cold: 14.0V (red wire on alternator)
Whats going on?
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (mrkrad)

Did you ever read that article in this special issue of whatever magazine. It was called like Euro Tuner or something like that, but it's not the mag that you know. Well there was this almost full issue about G60's and one of the things that this guy had found was all of the electrical probs. One of the main problem he stated specifically was the voltage drop across the alt. wire. I'll try to dig up the article this weekend b/.c I know he found problems within the injector harness too.
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (mrkrad)

There is a ristor (or something to that effect) to stop over charging at idle and I beleve it will not charge well at revs give me an min I'll make a call.....
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (mrkrad)

quote:[HR][/HR]Output at battery when cold: 12.5V
Output at alternator when cold: 14.0V (red wire on alternator)
[HR][/HR]​
Is that 12.5V at battery when the car is running, or off?
When the car is running (idling) the battery reading should only be one or two tenths of a volt lower than the alternator reading.
If you're seeing 12.5V at the battery with the car on, you've got a dead cable somewhere. There's a cable running from the battery ground post to a ground point right behind the battery, then over to the starter. Then, there's a positive cable going from the positive post over to the starter, and a third cable going from the positive terminal on the starter over to the alternator.
-Nate
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (SaabFan)

quote:[HR][/HR]
When the car is running (idling) the battery reading should only be one or two tenths of a volt lower than the alternator reading.
If you're seeing 12.5V at the battery with the car on, you've got a dead cable somewhere.
-Nate[HR][/HR]​
Yup. But I'd put my money on the Alt. cable that runs along the block. I think that's the one in the article that the guy found his prob. with. I wouldn't mind replacing all of mine w/nice cables w/nice bat. connectors anyway. Anyone have suggestions?? Are the ND worth the $$ (MOWA)??
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (mrkrad)

mrkrad,
Have you tried running a second wire from the output of the alt. to the battery? I used a 4AWG wire to make my run, and it seemed to clear up some odd issues, I also had the benifit of brighter headlights!!!!! For OEM headlights you need all the help one can get.
I also suplemented a 4AWG ground wire going to the frame, this helped out with the low whinning sound I kept hearing through my stereo, now I just need to ground the amps to the same spot, but that will have to wait.
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (mrkrad)

quote:[HR][/HR]Battery cold (off) 12.5V
Battery on 13.5V
Alternator 14.0V
After 3500- 12.4V[HR][/HR]​
wierd, what electrical consumer do you have kicking on at 3500 and staying on...?? Maybe its the alt or alt wire, swap it out and see
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (G60247)

quote:[HR][/HR]
Anyone have suggestions?? Are the ND worth the $$ (MOWA)?? [HR][/HR]​
I don't think it is worth it to spend lots of money on battery cables.
When I did mine a few months after buying the car, I just went down to the local parts discount place (AutoZone or one of those places) and bought the thickest cables they had in the correct length. 2-gauge from the battery to the ground and to the starter, and 4 gauge from the alternator down to the starter. I think I paid about $18 for all three.
Before I replaced the cables, I was seeing about 13.8 or 13.9 at the alternator, and 12.9 to 13.2 at the battery. Now, I see 13.9 at the alternator, and about 13.8 at the battery.
-Nate
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (SaabFan)

quote:[HR][/HR]
Anyone have suggestions?? Are the ND worth the $$ (MOWA)??
I don't think it is worth it to spend lots of money on battery cables.
When I did mine a few months after buying the car, I just went down to the local parts discount place (AutoZone or one of those places) and bought the thickest cables they had in the correct length. 2-gauge from the battery to the ground and to the starter, and 4 gauge from the alternator down to the starter. I think I paid about $18 for all three.
Before I replaced the cables, I was seeing about 13.8 or 13.9 at the alternator, and 12.9 to 13.2 at the battery. Now, I see 13.9 at the alternator, and about 13.8 at the battery.
-Nate[HR][/HR]​
My thing is I need to find a way to clean up the look of the ones on there now. I figured I could always cut the ends off of a set and put a good set in place.
 

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Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (TexasCorradoG60)

im in the process of putting 4 gauge alt/starter cables in...even at audio store prices it aint gona kill ya....my local electrical outlet sells the stuff 4 cheep
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: ALTERNATOR HELP!!! (pigbladder)

It was the voltage regulator. On our cars, the brushes are part of the regulator. $29.95 at autozone. Works perfect now! Standard stocked item even.
I'd suggest you guys take yours out and look at them. If they are severely worn (lobed), you will save yourself some trouble in the future. $30 can't beat that with a stick...
 
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