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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my alternator decided to die on my way home one night out of no where. It was the original so after 170k im not complaining. I drove the car the rest of the way home (about 8 miles) on battery. Replaced it with a crappy pep boys alt. only to have everything flicker at all times. After realizing this i ordered a GAP bosch rebuild and put it in on the next weekend. It solved the flickering but only while driving. When the headlamps are on they flicker along with interior/cluster lights. What could it be? Dont see how things are fine and then all of a sudden a new alternator is in the pic and everything is haywire :banghead:
 

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Let's break it down.

Is it the correct amperage?
How many volts is it putting out at idle?
How many volts does the battery read at idle?
How is your Alternator belt?
How is the tensioner?

It's easy for everyone to just say battery but a bad battery will cause no starts, weak starts but will still hold a charge as long as the alternator is generating power.

Also, a bad battery does not kill an alternator.
 

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So my alternator decided to die on my way home one night out of no where. It was the original so after 170k im not complaining. I drove the car the rest of the way home (about 8 miles) on battery. Replaced it with a crappy pep boys alt. only to have everything flicker at all times. After realizing this i ordered a GAP bosch rebuild and put it in on the next weekend. It solved the flickering but only while driving. When the headlamps are on they flicker along with interior/cluster lights. What could it be? Dont see how things are fine and then all of a sudden a new alternator is in the pic and everything is haywire :banghead:
If the lights are HID, the Balast may have been damaged due to voltage issues. Is your current headlight set up the same NA Spec ones you were running? Any upgraded harness or relays?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
hey guys havent really had a chance to looks this over until today. I replaced the battery and checked all the wires to no avail. The battery now has around 12.7 before start. The alternator is putting out a consistent voltage of between 14.17 and 14.25 depending on current draw (tested it with the headlights on and off). With the headlights on it does not dance around like the rest of the lighting in the vehicle and stays at same voltage. Can anyone think of something i am over looking, as the flickering is driving me nuts? :mad:

Also to answer the rest of the questions up top, the belt is fresh, the tensioner is perfectly fine. Nothing else mechanically wrong. The alternator is direct for GAP and is the 120 AMP (the only one they sell).
 

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The only thing I could think at this point is possibly the load reduction relay? Either that or perhaps a bad ground somewhere. It seems that the alt. is the correct one, and that you have it wired properly so.:confused::confused: G/L
 

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Headlight Switch? Could be something else interfering with an RF Signal. Have you done any Plug Wires or Ignition components?
 

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I'm not sure what model you have. If it's G60-it has 90amp alternator. It's vr6-120 amp alternator. Have you check your voltage drops on positive side of cable going to battery to atlernator. Same thing on negative side. Should have less than .3 vd. Any higher is not good. Also check what the voltage getting at the headlights. You should have same voltage reading what battery-alternator is producing. But if don't, like most corrodes,mk2,mk3 have issue with lighting harness and light switch. In other words, if only getting 10 volts with car running, you have bad voltage drop in that harness.

Real easy fix for this is relay your headlights. Worth doing on e-codes. NA lights, maybe, these lights are junk. If you have hid, it also worth relaying them too. Also check grounds and the main power wire going to fuse box. Make sure it's not brittle and burnt connector.
 

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VR and please read above... all lights including dash are flickering
Its a corrado. At times your going to :banghead: It going to have electrical issues for 20+ vehicle. :p it time to look at the wiring condition at battery,chassis, and at fuse box. That all I'm saying. A: you have poor grounds, B: poor or low voltage to circuit maybe from dirty contact or aged wires. It time to get dvm and start testing the electrical system.
 

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Start chasing your grounds - after 20 years the wiring insulation has deteriorated to the point of failure in many areas. THOROUGHLY clean and tighten all your hard ground points. put on new connectors as necessary. Pay close attention inspecting the fuse and relay panel. There's a voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster IIRC - that can give you problems sometimes. Good Luck.
 
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