AM I doing this right? (020)

1699 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Broke, Jun 24, 2010

VEEDUBB1

Discussion Starter · Jun 16, 2010 (Edited)

AM I doing this right? (020) flange

Excuse my terms... im not sure whats called what but im trying to press the cup on too the differential (the part were the drive axles bolt up too) Now in the picture you see my lovely bracket with the bolt through it that I was using to try and press the dirve axle cup thingy on too the diff shaft. Problem is that i cant clear enough space to put the washer then the circlip with out bending that angle plate that im using.

Now maybe the angle plate that im using to press it on is weak and the spring behind the cup is stonger. But b4 i mess something up in the diff I need somebody to comfirm what im doing is right. Or if they have a better way please to tell

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madbeachjetta

· #2 · Jun 16, 2010

Here's the definitive answer:

http://www.brokevw.com/020flange.html

But I can tell you it seem to take considerable force to press the shafts down. It bent my homebrew apparatus.

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VEEDUBB1

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 16, 2010

I cant push the flange in far enough to clear both circlip and washer. What if i chucked the washer and just inserted the circlip?

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madbeachjetta

· #4 · Jun 18, 2010

The washer & clip arrangement doesn't load me with confidence, that's for sure. But getting those clips in place seems to distort them and as obnoxious as that washer is I think it's necessary. I can't think of what might be in the way when you try to compress the springs. You might want to do a trial run with a light film of grease on the coils. If they totally bottom against each other the grease will show it.

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rhussjr

· #5 · Jun 19, 2010

When my trans cup tool sprouted legs and walked off, I used a long bolt, with a washer and a deepwell socket and simply install clips with no problems. The 12 point socket is large enough to fit over the shaft and pushes the clip over and down into the groove.

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VEEDUBB1

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 23, 2010

There is no risk of blowing out the clips in the differectial by pulling the shaft against the flange? Last thing i wanna so is tear down the trans again! I was using a 1/4" plate and that thing was bending like a bannana! (not the one in the pic. I made another one)

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rhussjr

· #7 · Jun 23, 2010

I have done it more than enough times with a socket and have not had one issue.

Using a 1/4" thick piece of steel will not cut it. It needs to be at least 1/2" thick and hardened to prevent it from bending, and even with that it will still bend a small amount.

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madbeachjetta

· #8 · Jun 23, 2010

VEEDUBB1 said:
There is no risk of blowing out the clips in the differectial by pulling the shaft against the flange? Last thing i wanna so is tear down the trans again! I was using a 1/4" plate and that thing was bending like a bannana! (not the one in the pic. I made another one)

If I understand your question right, there is no risk. The flange is being levered down upon the shaft itself so that won't load the clips in the differential. The springs aren't pressing directly on the differential carrier or the case, they're pressing on those conical washers. At that point I thought the load was splitting between the differential carrier and the stub shafts.

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Broke

· #9 · Jun 24, 2010

madbeachjetta said:
If I understand your question right, there is no risk. The flange is being levered down upon the shaft itself so that won't load the clips in the differential. The springs aren't pressing directly on the differential carrier or the case, they're pressing on those conical washers. At that point I thought the load was splitting between the differential carrier and the stub shafts.

No, it pulls solely on the stub axle shafts, and those are indeed held inside with a clip, but the risk is minimal really... you'll feel the spring compress as you are mashing the flange down.

It'll feel like you are compressing a spring and then suddenly it'll get solid and just stop. That's it. There should be enough groove exposed for the circlip at that point and no need to try to force the flange into the trans any further.

All of the forces are being put into the stub axle, even from the spring which is pushing (indirectly) against the diff carrier... the spring is shoving the diff carrier away while the stub axle is connected to the flange that is trying to push the diff carrier away, so in the end, all of the force needed to compress the spring is sent into the single 2.0mm or 2.3mm snap ring that holds the stub axle into the diff carrier.

Once you get the flange clipped in place, the spring tension will continue to want to pull the stub axle out of the diff, but that snap ring inside will hold.

VW presses the circlip on, they don't use pliers to expand the rings to install them. I don't know that they use a M10 bolt to pull the circlip on though.... I was under the impression that it was pressed on directly, they just start shoving the circlip onto the stub axle with the flange... the stub axle won't be pressed into the diff due to the spider gears and so on inside, so it is solid, and they simply drive the circlip on and call it done.

One of these days I'll try both methods... driving the circlip on with a socket and M10 bolt (which is the same as pulling OUT on the stub axle), and then driving the circlip on with just a socket, no bolt, so the forces won't be pulling OUT on the stub axle, it'll be shoving it INTO the trans (where it will stop and the circlip should be driven on easily).

Just thinking about it, it would be a massive PITA to try and hold a nearly-built 70 lb. trans sideways on the press so I can press on the circlip... that method may or may not get tested:laugh:

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