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I've heard 4176 coil rights work for the 4mo GSW/Alltracks, so that's a good price, if shipping isn't bad.
 

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Maximum Payload 992 lbs.
Rules are meant to be broken. picked up 30-32lbs packages of bio bricks (think huge wood pellets for cord wood replacement) that's 960lbs.

It was just me (225lbs) in the car with 5/6 full tank. I did load 16 packages in the rear seats (512lbs) 4 were in the passenger seat area and only 10 were in the back. She squatted in the rear way too much for my comfort (fronts didn't show much compression even with loading as much as I could in the front, but I was aware I was over the limit, the load was in the car for 45 min and took it pretty slow around corners and bumps. So far so good. Air bags will be on my short list of things to pick up.
 

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Picked up another 30 bundles of bio bricks to polish off the pallet I ordered, felt more confidant this time but corners were rather entertaining. My 205-65-16 snow tires were about 1/4-1/2" under the fender well, it reassured me that I'll never lower the car.
 

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For what it's worth, when fully loaded my stock Alltrack sat lower in the back than it does now, lowered on R wagon springs. Yes, the springs are lower--but the spring rate is a lot higher.
good to know, if I found higher spring rate at stock AT height, i'd prob take that.
 

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On the airbags I’ve noticed a side effect of having them on my lifted full-size bronco is that when they are connected together for ease of filling evenly I found that they attributed to increase lean .when turning as that outside wheel tends to compress it will cause the inner airbag to extend and increase lean.i installed a valve to isolate them while driving.keep in mind this is a lifted vehicle with six inches of suspension lift and 35”tires so not a fair comparison except for only in theory.
I'm guessing even our stock sway bar will help compensate, let alone those with upgraded bars. But good point.
 

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So you didn't take the lower control arm off to install but went the deflated squeeze route?

So that bag only lasted about a year? I hope it was just due to low inflation rather than poor design flaw.
 

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how are you guys routing the filling hose? any pictures or diagrams? any concern with the hose going into the subframe and movement with compression?
 

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does the firestone kits come with spacers for the end? the Airlift 80753 kit that i picked up has a 1/2" spacer for the valve side and another spacer fr the opposite end.

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Lift-80753-Front-Spring/dp/B0047DTDH2

I'll be tacking the install with intention of dropping control arms and getting creative with routing.
 

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Correct, I did the deflated squeeze route. I found it so much easier this time that I take back my previous post about it being a major PITA.

I am willing to put money on that it was due to no inflation. The cut or tear was about 1” long & like a perfect incision. All of airlifts support material point to horizontal tears as a result of the airbag bottoming out due to insufficient inflation.
Okay I gotta have more info/pics if the deflate squeeze route with the air lift bags.

Did you use a mighty vac to suck the bags flat?

I was able to collapse them enough to make them into a hot dog bun with zip ties and was able to get the first end in (non valve) but couldn't bend them enough to slide any more in.

I may leave the bags in my car during the day so they bake in 130f heat to soften them up and it may help.

Or I may just drop the arms.
 

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Thanks for the pics, I had two zip ties on it and looked very similar to that pic. I didn't spray anything on the bag, so i'll give that a try as well.

The bags are in the car today so they'll be nice and toasty 100-130F and we'll see if that helps.
 

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Well they are in, took about 3 hours (about 40 min of that was explaining to the wife why we needed these and no it’s not stupid). Dropped the control arms, holly eff those springs are long. Last springs I changed out was on my 2010 mk5 jetta, I has to swing the Alltracks control arm so it was almost touching the ground to work the spring free. Took about 10 min each spring to work the bag into it, used the zip tie squish method shown by Moonwalker, but it took another 45 min to get the springs back in stalled. I did run into an issue with my H&R RSB and the moog end links, the threaded portion of the moogs seem to be a good ¼ 3/8 way to long and the threads were hitting the springs on both sides but passengers side was the worse, I couldn’t swing the bar out of the way as it was hitting the drivers side axle (first one that was completed after some wiggling). I tried compressing the driver’s side spring but didn’t get enough room so I eventually removed both end links to be reinstalled later today. Once that was done it didn’t take much to get the swing arm into place did take about 5-7” of compression before the shock bolt holes lined up, shock first then the knuckle, a little bit of persuading with a screw driver to line up the holes. I eventually torqued knuckle and shock bolts to 100 ft lb, and I did reuse hardware.

I did route the air lines down and then back up and through the rear rails past my westfailia hitch and by the bumper cover, right now I have the slack of the lines zip tied to the hitch and about 10lbs in the bags. Not sure if I’ll use the T or if I’ll have two fill ports.

I’ll mount the valve and reinstall the end links after work, so far with 10lbs there’s about 3” between top of the tire and the plastic cladding, def a little higher. I hope I sat the bottom of the springs properly in the control arm, it was very awkward to seat it then rotate it to the proper position then not have it pop back out as you wiggle the top into the chassis perch.
 

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Do you have a pic of how you routed them down? After looking at routing them up and the small hole they feed through, Im leaning more towards valve down.

Just curious to see how others went about it

I do not but i went very similar to this DIY which I think was inspiration for moon's install as well. As of now nothing is zip tied (except by the hitch(, once I get the end links installed i'll probably toss one on the IRS frame just before i dove the hose into the rear frame rails.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=476375&highlight=airlift+diy
 

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Similar experience. Tricky getting the springs seated even by experienced mech. Did you use spring compression tool or just jack up control arms to compress spring?

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Used the good old HF low profile floor jack all the way lowed, in hind sight i should have raised the rear on the jack stands another click or two. While it's 3t capacity is nice to have, moving the 80lbs thing around to get under the control arm takes some muscle and then to line things up takes more fineness. I do have a small cheap Napa brand trolley jack that may have been better, but I've never used it.
 

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+1pics pls. Next step is try flipping them, which friend mech and I agreed made more risk to damage from rocks etc underneath (and I do use in some rough areas, like to do more, loaded)

Like wise, I don't go off roading so my concern will be any ice or snow pack brushing against the hoses, so far the slack is a little snugger than shown in that tdiclub DIY, we'll see how it holds up with/without zip ties.
 

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Huh... that one little loop would be my one concern however i feel as though a solution could be found to alleviate that potential risk.... tape or zipties seems a bit flimsy... maybe a bent piece of 16 gauge that cupped over the bottom on the control arm? i dunno... something to play with.

Great link though! and the video he linked to as well. Really shows the difference they make. I would be curious to see what were to happen if he re inflated the bags with the weight on? would it rise again or just hold that height but stiffer?

I.E. Pre inflate the bags before putting weight in or doesn't matter?



Here is the Video he linked too for reference

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RJ8kgqbNUg
IMO the suspension goes up and down in normal driving, any inflating before loading the suspension will prob settle the same as inflating and just driving around.
 

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So a 1600 mile vacation to PEI and a week and a half later, bags are holding up great. Did some pre vacation errands and some measurements, unloaded with 10PSI in the bags, rear fender sat at 29” (running 225-55-17 tires), picked up 250lbs of sand, 80lb of cat litter and a case of wine, car sat at 28.5”, I was impressed.

For the vacation we loaded up the car with 100lbs of luggage in the back seat, 30lbs tow ball mounted bike rack, two 25lbs bikes and the 70lbs pit bull in the back hatch. Had the bags initially at 15psi on the start of the trip, I didn’t measure where it sat but probably she looked level, last year she was sagging pretty good in similar outfit on the same trip. Driving around for the week I kept the bags aired up even when not lugging around the bikes or much weight, no noticeable rough ridding. The access lawn to our cabin was pretty uneven, the last couple days we were there it did develop a fair amount of squeaking of what I think was the bags, once on pavement the sound went away, but I’ll be keeping an eye on it.

On the way back I did pump up the bags to ~24psi, can’t say I noticed any handling difference or if the car sat any higher. We did have some more stuff as we snagged a couple cases of beer, some souvenirs, also my wife claims I put on a good 5lbs. I did notice an anomaly I didn’t really think about, after some driving, say 6 hr straight highway run at 70-75mph with outside temps of 80F, I noticed when we parked the PSI of those bags climbed from 24psi to about 30-32psi, overnight in a 70f garage bags went back down to original 24psi. I wonder if it’s the heat of the road/engine or the suspension movement that’s heating up the bags.

I do recommend a cordless inflator to pair with the bags, I picked up a Milwaukee M12 inflator for general use (also a quick disconnect adapter) and tossed it in the car, it made it really easy to air up/check the PSI of the bags (also top up the bike tires). Seeing I left a pig tail on the fill valve that’s tucked up in the bumper/hitch cut out I can just reach up snag it and check without much effort.
 

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I went with the T as I'd rather have both bags go out and sag than one holding a side 2-3" higher. The plastic T of the airlift is darn tough as it took quite a bit to get the hose over the barbs.

Can't say that it'll affect lean, I have H&R RSB anyways.
 

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This is what im leaning towards as i am planning on upgrading to a golf R RSB as well. Going to try to get the car up on the lift tomorrow night to install the bags.

Anyone have a pic of the Airlift bags with the spacer pucks in place?
that tdi club link a few up has a couple pics of the air lift bags with the red spacers installed.
 
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