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Yeah I have both valves pointed down then hoses running up to a T by the center hitch hole under the bumper, so it'll be easy for me to check the T and the fill valve, then it'd only lead to the bag valves themselves, which will be a PITA to drop the rear sway arms.

Easiest for me to check but I don't have a tool is the valve core, one of the fill valves core was loose or leaking so I used the other, but again I didn't hear any audible leakage when i tossed 20# in the bags. Time to fine a core tool.

Also I did order 80753 kit, they def seem wider and longer than what Foodogg has pictured.
This is the one I've installed and testing,

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Lift-60902-Universal-Spring/dp/B018O94MXO

so far so good towing with 3/4 cargo load...plus a trailer, at 30psi no rubs.



Next step is some ruff road tests with cargo rack in back option.



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This is the one I've installed and testing,

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Lift-60902-Universal-Spring/dp/B018O94MXO

so far so good towing with 3/4 cargo load...plus a trailer, at 30psi no rubs.



Next step is some ruff road tests with cargo rack in back option.



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I've also taken advice of some to use two separate valves, vs a tee.
1. To allow for airing up one side more than the other for cargo (seems unlikely, easier to just shift)
2. One less connector to fail
3. The opinion by some in other more experienced SUV or jeep trailer towing forums that in a lean the air would tend to migrate to the upside bag under less pressure, deflating the downside bag, causing a rub.

I dunno, and note its a bit of a pain to get two different sides air inflated and get the inflator valve off without losing 5lb plus air, so having one valve has its advantage there...

Either using a bike pump or 12v inflator good for airing up after airing tires down in the sand.



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I've also taken advice of some to use two separate valves, vs a tee.
1. To allow for airing up one side more than the other for cargo (seems unlikely, easier to just shift)
2. One less connector to fail
3. The opinion by some in other more experienced SUV or jeep trailer towing forums that in a lean the air would tend to migrate to the upside bag under less pressure, deflating the downside bag, causing a rub.

I dunno, and note its a bit of a pain to get two different sides air inflated and get the inflator valve off without losing 5lb plus air, so having one valve has its advantage there...

Either using a bike pump or 12v inflator good for airing up after airing tires down in the sand.



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PS: dont be like dumb like me-
be in a rush to install valve in most inobtrusive outside location before DOUBLE checking clearance of air line BEHIND first install in the bumper was too tight 90 degree in the hose behind bumper ...

THEN I realized it was a really tight fit to get the bike pump inflator valve on...-

so on second bag install I put valve in from the side on second try...ahhh much better; still safe from road debris but easy to get inflation valve on.




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I'm curious what the school of thought is on the 1 valve (single path) vs 2 valve (dual path) set up is. Doesn't the sway bar counter the forces caused by air moving from the high pressure side (suspension compressed) to the low pressure side (suspension uncompressed) in the single path set up? I assume the size of the sway bar will affect this- so is there an advantage of the dual path over the single path if you have an appropriate RSB? Maybe dual path is better if you have stock RSB? Just food for thought.

@Foodogg- thanks for the write up on your experiences- I love your set up! I'm curious what your thoughts are after putting some miles on the Air Lift. Thanks!
Will do, report back after some use.
Agree on the debate 1v2 lines is less applicable in AT vs Jeeps, SUVs towing big loads. Visit a couple of forums for opinions there.

And so you can see this is pretty straightforward:

https://www.airliftcompany.com/workshop/air-lift-1000-universal-air-spring-kit/

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PS: working good towing, holding air after a week

This is 3/4 loaded in rear of wagon; add another 150# of ice, groceries
Adding 15 -20 gal water in the tent camper forward of the axle drops it a bit more at hitch.




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Just park your cars.

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Heh...the mk7 is number one rated tow car in the uk by its class three years running, where, granted thats the 2.0tdi. Anyone can search threads here and elsewhere for towing, see cars with 2" ecohitches towing various light trailers.

But, yes to those scolds out there,
I agree you should...

never drive on dirt roads!
Or go to the beach with little kids!
Or carry dogs!
Or bunny shavings in back!
Or haul 2x4s on the top rack!
Or put on big tires!

Think of your ceramic coatings!
The carpet!
Odometer fraud!
Warranty!
The climate!

Oh, no's.

https://i0.wp.com/mustreadalaska.co...19-09-24-at-10.55.32-PM.png?fit=750,380&ssl=1


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be mindful of that tongue weight, those bumper bolts aren't the most robust.
Thx. The ecohitch attaches to the frame. See install videos at etrailer. The ecohitch is rated 250# at hitch, and thats a 2" towball rated at class3.

I keep tongue weight manageable to what I can lift easily but above the 4% min recommended in UK snd no more than the 10% rule of thumb in US. 75-200#.

I'm very mindful of loading heavy items close to axle and NOT on lever ends. Thats what causes sway at speed.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=i2fkOVHAC8Q

This 25 yr old tent trailer empty with one full propane tank one battery is about 1050# by the original manual.

I figure its 1500# with the extra stuff I have on and in it. Lots of people tow more, if you read in comments here and elsewhere, esp see various adventure wheeling forums.

People have been to Alaska and to Chile in old vw vans...and people forget all those roads in the deserts and baja where made decades ago by old 2wd trucks starting with Model Ts...

So far no problems and of course I dont tow like the nitwits in Ram3500s with desert toys attached on back of too big, too light too tall rigs going at 90mph.

I've camped these sw deserts 40 years and count on seeing one or two of those belly up in the ditch coming back...see also Santa Ana winds...

I've towed this thing with other vehicles including a 96tdiwagon to all over Anza Borrego, Joshua Tree, to the beach in remote baja, and carefully up and down local hills including the Grand Escalante...the back road to Bullfrog Landing which was a trip!

Its pretty elderly as am I so for now, the AT is more like a tug...short trips, park for a couple weeks, move on.

I also expect to upgrade the Alltrack S AT 6mt clutch sooner and install bigger brakes when time comes to replace the factory installed.

Theres No free lunch.

So, yeah, I take it easy...and bring backups. Theres a 4' HiLift jack behind the propane tanks and recovery/come along kit in the trailer. The rack in back carries light stuff only, cargo rack and home depot storage box when not on the car hitch, plastic sand mats, firewood, light weight fire bowl and grate.

We'll see...if I find I am overdoing it,
I can easily scale back. I'm experimenting...

ps: have also car camped a big tent using cargo box on top and can haul stuff in cargo rack instead of tent trailer.



TLDR;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VrFV5r8cs0


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Arena, Thank you for your concern!

Know any good back roads up your way? I bombed thru Denver to GrandJunction on an all nighter a few months ago and have to say the AllTrack was like a bobsled in some rain and light snow over the mtns there. Thats a scary road is you get going too fast fer sure!

No trailer on that ride, and would have taken it slower if I did, engine braking is your friend.

...cracks me up the big huge yellow signs as reminders for cars and truckers..."there's one more steep grade left to go! Slow down check brakes!"

Must be all the bud you all have now...

Here is a another fun one I found by accident looking for a short cut, wandering a bit:

https://www.dangerousroads.org/north-america/usa/3958-douglas-pass.html

-Foo


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Still loving my 4175 Firestones. Held 25 PSI all summer/fall. No saggy butt with heavy trail bike on 1UpUSA. I left my airlines long to compensate for suspension movement. Wrapped lines with gorilla tape and bike tubes at potential rub points.
Bike tubes to armor airline: thats a great tip!


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I'd worry more about what the bolts are attached to than the bolts themselves. Any flat metal structure is prone to develop fatigue cracks over time due to repeated oscillating loads on the hitch going over bumps and curved freeway slabs. I have had that happen to me...and the hitch was rated way over the load and tongue weight I was towing.
Thanks, Dave and Dieseldog.
You DD have given good advice before so taking serious your words of caution.

I will investigate further.

1. What/how do you recommend?
Remove rear bumper and body clips as in the e-trailer?
2. Take pictures of mounting area metal?
3. What additional reinforcement or alternative connection to frame/unibody do you suggest?
(Dd you reference "the other one" - not sure what other pne - do you mean the German factory option westphalian hitch?)
4. Other tips? I'll hold off on my next "heavy test on cargo rack on hitch on rough roads" until I hear more.

Thats where I would carry heavier stuff than on top where the roof rack limit is I think 150#.
(And I could be wrong on ecohitch at 250# was going by memory, so good catch, DD)
My hitch cargo rack is a cheapo PEP BOYS bought for trsting on hitch or on top as it can go both ways. Strapped on and used for a long trip with heavy rubber bag type container- ok for budget once or twice- yakima roof top cargo box obv far superior.
I'd be using the hitch rack hauling water and gas to/fm remote long term camp or pig and deer hunting. Theres better hitch racks out there- see Christof the Bearded Detailers Project Talltrack rig.


-Foo


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PS: i am starting new discrete thread on cargo rack and towing hitches for Alltrack to focus in tech tips there vs hijack OP Colstahls post/thread about helper air bags,

And to respect Doths build thread too, vs pollute with my semi OT musings on mine.

-Foo

Apologies for my noob use of tapatalk/vwvo- lets hope this linkee workee.


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to....php?p=113880293&share_type=t&link_source=app

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I don't have specific recommendations, but here was my scenario:

On a '74 Chevy 1-ton van I installed a class-2 hitch for towing an open light trailer with a small formula car. In a relatively short time span, the sheet metal it was mounted to fatigued and failed, allowing the rear end of the hitch to drag on the ground. I contacted the MFG, and they sent me, as a sign of good will, a class-3 hitch that mounted to and through the "frame", which was made from somewhat thicker formed sheet metal.

After several years of use with a much heavier enclosed trailer, but still well within the advertised capacity of the hitch, the frame and the floor panel it was bolted began to show fatigue cracks. I reinforced the cracked areas with 1/4"-thick steel plates. That solved the issue.

So one has to be very careful to monitor the hitch and attachment point condition to prevent or correct issues.
Thanks Dave, much appreciate the tip!


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Still looks like the eco hitch mounts to the surface of the bumper bracket, also etrailer lists the TW at 200# yet Eco hitch themselves rate it at 300#?

Maybe there's different revisions? Either way Weitzenhof hit the nail on the head, there's a reason the OEM bar doesn't use those holes and mounts 4 M8 bolts way in the frame rails 14-18"

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/Golf+Alltrack/2017/306-X7315.html

Either way I'm sure there is a factor of safety involved in any calc I'm just uber cautious.
Thx DD. Much appreciated.
Another ?

I'm not entirely clear on the terminology and can NOT quite envision the mounting of factory OEM hidden folding tow ball- hitch,
Vs ecohitch mounting, but take your word for it

And I am going to get under there and re-check in a couple days with talented mech friend help, go back to rv shop to pull bumper and inspect if need be...

Do you happen to have a link with exploded diagram of the VW hidden hitch for comparison and review?

How would I fab some support from the frame where the factory hidden hitch bolts on to strengthen where the ecohitch bolts on?

Here is why I ask-
I am safety first oriented and OCD about not wanting to give bad advice by default, here

And

I'm not entirely happy with how my cheapo PepBoys cargo rack hangs down a bit, (which is fine I bot it to experiment and will replace as meeded)

And I have put it down to partly saggy butt and failing Firestone bags,
Partly less clearnce by street tires, lots of stuff in back.

If its just flex in cheapo cargo rack I intend to replace after I am sure the ecohitch can handle that extra lever arm of weight away from the tow ball.


Because clearly that condition in pics below cant be allowed to continue as its dragging dirt on rack and bumper edge is NOT good...see pics

Because the last thing I want is jank the whole hitch or bumper off 40 miles out in the boonies...going over a bump..too fast.



So when I
1. solve saggy butt and
2. recheck hitch mount,

3. I'll be looking for a better cargo rack on hitch that fits better like on cristofs Project Talltrak, here:

https://www.facebook.com/projecttalltrack/


Fellas Lets leave this air bags topic

And continue discussion for
cargo and tow hitch specific concerns by moving convo on this part of thread to here.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to....php?p=113880293&share_type=t&link_source=app




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Picked up a valve core tool (amazing what crap "Slime" can hawk for $2.50 these days) I was able to get a solid 1 and 1/2 turns on the core. Aired up to 20PSI last night, it held for a quick drive, will check to see what will be in there tonight.
Thx! What is "slime"? Linkee?

I have either a very slow leak from approx 30 to 27 psi (or its my poor technique getting the inflator hose clamp off quickly and losing 2-6 psi in the process)
and valve core is a good place to start.

I got these on as valve stem caps which can be used to remove valves on tires, common in orff-roading for faster airing down big tires vs holding valve down with gauge pointy end. Finger tight might not be good enough so your tool is next step.




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slime is just a brand that started off as that goo tire leak sealant then branched out to hawk anything tire related, sadly i was already at a tractor supply and that's all they had for valve core tools.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Slime-20...MIkKCcgL2F5gIVBpSzCh3L0w4UEAQYAyABEgJ7sPD_BwE

So far so good, I haven't checked the PSI since tightening down but we did 400 miles over the weekend and I can still visibly see the rear is up 1" or so, I'll check the PSI sometime tonight. Another 4-500 miles upcoming over the thanksgiving travels.
Thx, this is a must have for breakdown/ruffroad kit that lives under the rear floor on too of spare.

Happy Turkey Day!


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