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does the firestone kits come with spacers for the end? the Airlift 80753 kit that i picked up has a 1/2" spacer for the valve side and another spacer fr the opposite end.

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Lift-80753-Front-Spring/dp/B0047DTDH2

I'll be tacking the install with intention of dropping control arms and getting creative with routing.
 

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does the firestone kits come with spacers for the end? the Airlift 80753 kit that i picked up has a 1/2" spacer for the valve side and another spacer fr the opposite end.

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Lift-80753-Front-Spring/dp/B0047DTDH2

I'll be tacking the install with intention of dropping control arms and getting creative with routing.
Mine did not but thats a great idea- my worry is valve pulling loose or jamming up if it misses the hole on full extension, then crimping as it reseats.

If I'd had a better idea of how to install and route valve down I'd have gone that way.

Seems most common in jeep and truck bag installs- valve down.

Let us now how it works out.


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Correct, I did the deflated squeeze route. I found it so much easier this time that I take back my previous post about it being a major PITA.

I am willing to put money on that it was due to no inflation. The cut or tear was about 1” long & like a perfect incision. All of airlifts support material point to horizontal tears as a result of the airbag bottoming out due to insufficient inflation.
Okay I gotta have more info/pics if the deflate squeeze route with the air lift bags.

Did you use a mighty vac to suck the bags flat?

I was able to collapse them enough to make them into a hot dog bun with zip ties and was able to get the first end in (non valve) but couldn't bend them enough to slide any more in.

I may leave the bags in my car during the day so they bake in 130f heat to soften them up and it may help.

Or I may just drop the arms.
 

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Okay I gotta have more info/pics if the deflate squeeze route with the air lift bags.

Did you use a mighty vac to suck the bags flat?

I was able to collapse them enough to make them into a hot dog bun with zip ties and was able to get the first end in (non valve) but couldn't bend them enough to slide any more in.

I may leave the bags in my car during the day so they bake in 130f heat to soften them up and it may help.

Or I may just drop the arms.
Thats what we ended up doing.
Too hard to jam them in and easier to see where to route airlines.
-Foo


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Okay I gotta have more info/pics if the deflate squeeze route with the air lift bags.

Did you use a mighty vac to suck the bags flat?

I was able to collapse them enough to make them into a hot dog bun with zip ties and was able to get the first end in (non valve) but couldn't bend them enough to slide any more in.

I may leave the bags in my car during the day so they bake in 130f heat to soften them up and it may help.

Or I may just drop the arms.
If you were able slide the non-valve end in you’re almost there. Spray the bags & coils with soapy water & use a tire spoon or blunt tool to pull the bag upward.


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Thanks for the pics, I had two zip ties on it and looked very similar to that pic. I didn't spray anything on the bag, so i'll give that a try as well.

The bags are in the car today so they'll be nice and toasty 100-130F and we'll see if that helps.
 

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Well they are in, took about 3 hours (about 40 min of that was explaining to the wife why we needed these and no it’s not stupid). Dropped the control arms, holly eff those springs are long. Last springs I changed out was on my 2010 mk5 jetta, I has to swing the Alltracks control arm so it was almost touching the ground to work the spring free. Took about 10 min each spring to work the bag into it, used the zip tie squish method shown by Moonwalker, but it took another 45 min to get the springs back in stalled. I did run into an issue with my H&R RSB and the moog end links, the threaded portion of the moogs seem to be a good ¼ 3/8 way to long and the threads were hitting the springs on both sides but passengers side was the worse, I couldn’t swing the bar out of the way as it was hitting the drivers side axle (first one that was completed after some wiggling). I tried compressing the driver’s side spring but didn’t get enough room so I eventually removed both end links to be reinstalled later today. Once that was done it didn’t take much to get the swing arm into place did take about 5-7” of compression before the shock bolt holes lined up, shock first then the knuckle, a little bit of persuading with a screw driver to line up the holes. I eventually torqued knuckle and shock bolts to 100 ft lb, and I did reuse hardware.

I did route the air lines down and then back up and through the rear rails past my westfailia hitch and by the bumper cover, right now I have the slack of the lines zip tied to the hitch and about 10lbs in the bags. Not sure if I’ll use the T or if I’ll have two fill ports.

I’ll mount the valve and reinstall the end links after work, so far with 10lbs there’s about 3” between top of the tire and the plastic cladding, def a little higher. I hope I sat the bottom of the springs properly in the control arm, it was very awkward to seat it then rotate it to the proper position then not have it pop back out as you wiggle the top into the chassis perch.
 

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I just purchased a set of Firestone bags today. Ive read mixed reviews for both Firestone and Airlift, probably a couple more for Firestone but not enough to deter me from the cost difference between the two. 150$ off amazon with prime (Stupid CAD exchange rate :banghead:)

Anyway! I'll be installing these next week some time, I do a fair bit of camping or just lugging stuff around. Next year we are looking at getting a small boat also and guess which car gets the hitch....
 

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I just purchased a set of Firestone bags today. Ive read mixed reviews for both Firestone and Airlift, probably a couple more for Firestone but not enough to deter me from the cost difference between the two. 150$ off amazon with prime (Stupid CAD exchange rate :banghead:)

Anyway! I'll be installing these next week some time, I do a fair bit of camping or just lugging stuff around. Next year we are looking at getting a small boat also and guess which car gets the hitch....



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Well they are in, took about 3 hours (about 40 min of that was explaining to the wife why we needed these and no it’s not stupid). Dropped the control arms, holly eff those springs are long. Last springs I changed out was on my 2010 mk5 jetta, I has to swing the Alltracks control arm so it was almost touching the ground to work the spring free. Took about 10 min each spring to work the bag into it, used the zip tie squish method shown by Moonwalker, but it took another 45 min to get the springs back in stalled. I did run into an issue with my H&R RSB and the moog end links, the threaded portion of the moogs seem to be a good ¼ 3/8 way to long and the threads were hitting the springs on both sides but passengers side was the worse, I couldn’t swing the bar out of the way as it was hitting the drivers side axle (first one that was completed after some wiggling). I tried compressing the driver’s side spring but didn’t get enough room so I eventually removed both end links to be reinstalled later today. Once that was done it didn’t take much to get the swing arm into place did take about 5-7” of compression before the shock bolt holes lined up, shock first then the knuckle, a little bit of persuading with a screw driver to line up the holes. I eventually torqued knuckle and shock bolts to 100 ft lb, and I did reuse hardware.

I did route the air lines down and then back up and through the rear rails past my westfailia hitch and by the bumper cover, right now I have the slack of the lines zip tied to the hitch and about 10lbs in the bags. Not sure if I’ll use the T or if I’ll have two fill ports.

I’ll mount the valve and reinstall the end links after work, so far with 10lbs there’s about 3” between top of the tire and the plastic cladding, def a little higher. I hope I sat the bottom of the springs properly in the control arm, it was very awkward to seat it then rotate it to the proper position then not have it pop back out as you wiggle the top into the chassis perch.
Similar experience. Tricky getting the springs seated even by experienced mech. Did you use spring compression tool or just jack up control arms to compress spring?




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I did route the air lines down and then back up and through the rear rails past my westfailia hitch and by the bumper cover, right now I have the slack of the lines zip tied to the hitch and about 10lbs in the bags. Not sure if I’ll use the T or if I’ll have two fill ports.
Do you have a pic of how you routed them down? After looking at routing them up and the small hole they feed through, Im leaning more towards valve down.

Just curious to see how others went about it
 

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Do you have a pic of how you routed them down? After looking at routing them up and the small hole they feed through, Im leaning more towards valve down.

Just curious to see how others went about it
+1pics pls. My Next step is try flipping them from inflation valve up to down- the more common install on jeeps and trucks, which my friend/mech and I agreed made more risk to damage from rocks etc to lines routed under the control arm- (and I do use the AT in some rough areas, and would like to do more, loaded)



Reason why- still having trouble now inflating/deflating reliably so I suspect some pinching somewhere in the tight area inside frame, or too tight turn in routing, or possibly the bag inflation fitting is impacted somehow at top of spring seat.

A spacer between bag and seat top or bottom would help- the Firestone bag kit does not include spaces but the AirLift brand used by DieselDog does, correct?

I like the airbag solution to cure/mitigate saggy butt when loaded/towing as its so inexpensive and elegant a solution- adjustable with air.

And its well proven in other tow vehicles, and some AT reviewrs have apparently got it right- see user reviews in the link to Amazon that DieselDogg provided.

I Just gotta eliminate my possible install errors before ruling out bags as permanent solution and
Then going to a much more expensive way: taller springs and Atlas shocks, which leaves me nose down when not heavy loaded.

What say the cognoscenti?

-Foo
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Do you have a pic of how you routed them down? After looking at routing them up and the small hole they feed through, Im leaning more towards valve down.

Just curious to see how others went about it

I do not but i went very similar to this DIY which I think was inspiration for moon's install as well. As of now nothing is zip tied (except by the hitch(, once I get the end links installed i'll probably toss one on the IRS frame just before i dove the hose into the rear frame rails.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=476375&highlight=airlift+diy
 

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Similar experience. Tricky getting the springs seated even by experienced mech. Did you use spring compression tool or just jack up control arms to compress spring?

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Used the good old HF low profile floor jack all the way lowed, in hind sight i should have raised the rear on the jack stands another click or two. While it's 3t capacity is nice to have, moving the 80lbs thing around to get under the control arm takes some muscle and then to line things up takes more fineness. I do have a small cheap Napa brand trolley jack that may have been better, but I've never used it.
 

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+1pics pls. Next step is try flipping them, which friend mech and I agreed made more risk to damage from rocks etc underneath (and I do use in some rough areas, like to do more, loaded)

Like wise, I don't go off roading so my concern will be any ice or snow pack brushing against the hoses, so far the slack is a little snugger than shown in that tdiclub DIY, we'll see how it holds up with/without zip ties.
 

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Huh... that one little loop would be my one concern however i feel as though a solution could be found to alleviate that potential risk.... tape or zipties seems a bit flimsy... maybe a bent piece of 16 gauge that cupped over the bottom on the control arm? i dunno... something to play with.

Great link though! and the video he linked to as well. Really shows the difference they make. I would be curious to see what were to happen if he re inflated the bags with the weight on? would it rise again or just hold that height but stiffer?

I.E. Pre inflate the bags before putting weight in or doesn't matter?



Here is the Video he linked too for reference

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RJ8kgqbNUg
 

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Used the good old HF low profile floor jack all the way lowed, in hind sight i should have raised the rear on the jack stands another click or two. While it's 3t capacity is nice to have, moving the 80lbs thing around to get under the control arm takes some muscle and then to line things up takes more fineness. I do have a small cheap Napa brand trolley jack that may have been better, but I've never used it.
did same here. A bit more time and effort requiring care and patience but safe enough on rears anyway, imho.


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Huh... that one little loop would be my one concern however i feel as though a solution could be found to alleviate that potential risk.... tape or zipties seems a bit flimsy... maybe a bent piece of 16 gauge that cupped over the bottom on the control arm? i dunno... something to play with.

Great link though! and the video he linked to as well. Really shows the difference they make. I would be curious to see what were to happen if he re inflated the bags with the weight on? would it rise again or just hold that height but stiffer?

I.E. Pre inflate the bags before putting weight in or doesn't matter?



Here is the Video he linked too for reference

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RJ8kgqbNUg
Thx for link! Great pics and vid I wish I'd had before install first time.
See also some recent AT user reviews on Amazon for those Airlift bags DD linked too.

Like your thinking on protecting the vulnerable airline below control arm.

Anyone know if there is such a thing as flex metal air lines, or a something common off the shelf you could use as a sleeve, bent to fit to run Firestone or Airlift plastic hoses thru? They seem so flimsy but apparently work- just would feel more comfortable protecting before going 100's of miles on gravel to AK.
(Bucket Trip)

-Foo


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Anyone know if there is such a thing as flex metal air lines, or a something common off the shelf you could use as a sleeve, bent to fit to run Firestone or Airlift plastic hoses thru? They seem so flimsy but apparently work- just would feel more comfortable protecting before going 100's of miles on gravel to AK.
(Bucket Trip)
Depends how much time and money you wanted to put into it I guess! Like you could probably run a metal line and weld/ solder a shark bite fitting on the ends. You would just need a short bit of plastic tube from bag to hard line, then run hard line to the flex point of the control arm, then plastic again. You could have the majority of the system metal with only small flex areas the plastic.

That would be 100% over kill for what I require but it would be damn near rock proof!

My concerns will be small gravel from the odd dirt road and the main one, snow and ice! Yayyy Canadian winters!
 
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