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Still loving my 4175 Firestones. Held 25 PSI all summer/fall. No saggy butt with heavy trail bike on 1UpUSA. I left my airlines long to compensate for suspension movement. Wrapped lines with gorilla tape and bike tubes at potential rub points.
 

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Still loving my 4175 Firestones. Held 25 PSI all summer/fall. No saggy butt with heavy trail bike on 1UpUSA. I left my airlines long to compensate for suspension movement. Wrapped lines with gorilla tape and bike tubes at potential rub points.
Bike tubes to armor airline: thats a great tip!


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Still looks like the eco hitch mounts to the surface of the bumper bracket, also etrailer lists the TW at 200# yet Eco hitch themselves rate it at 300#?

Maybe there's different revisions? Either way Weitzenhof hit the nail on the head, there's a reason the OEM bar doesn't use those holes and mounts 4 M8 bolts way in the frame rails 14-18"

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/Golf+Alltrack/2017/306-X7315.html

Either way I'm sure there is a factor of safety involved in any calc I'm just uber cautious.
 

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I'd worry more about what the bolts are attached to than the bolts themselves. Any flat metal structure is prone to develop fatigue cracks over time due to repeated oscillating loads on the hitch going over bumps and curved freeway slabs. I have had that happen to me...and the hitch was rated way over the load and tongue weight I was towing.
Thanks, Dave and Dieseldog.
You DD have given good advice before so taking serious your words of caution.

I will investigate further.

1. What/how do you recommend?
Remove rear bumper and body clips as in the e-trailer?
2. Take pictures of mounting area metal?
3. What additional reinforcement or alternative connection to frame/unibody do you suggest?
(Dd you reference "the other one" - not sure what other pne - do you mean the German factory option westphalian hitch?)
4. Other tips? I'll hold off on my next "heavy test on cargo rack on hitch on rough roads" until I hear more.

Thats where I would carry heavier stuff than on top where the roof rack limit is I think 150#.
(And I could be wrong on ecohitch at 250# was going by memory, so good catch, DD)
My hitch cargo rack is a cheapo PEP BOYS bought for trsting on hitch or on top as it can go both ways. Strapped on and used for a long trip with heavy rubber bag type container- ok for budget once or twice- yakima roof top cargo box obv far superior.
I'd be using the hitch rack hauling water and gas to/fm remote long term camp or pig and deer hunting. Theres better hitch racks out there- see Christof the Bearded Detailers Project Talltrack rig.


-Foo


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PS: i am starting new discrete thread on cargo rack and towing hitches for Alltrack to focus in tech tips there vs hijack OP Colstahls post/thread about helper air bags,

And to respect Doths build thread too, vs pollute with my semi OT musings on mine.

-Foo

Apologies for my noob use of tapatalk/vwvo- lets hope this linkee workee.


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1. What/how do you recommend?
Remove rear bumper and body clips as in the e-trailer?
2. Take pictures of mounting area metal?
3. What additional reinforcement or alternative connection to frame/unibody do you suggest?
(Dd you reference "the other one" - not sure what other pne - do you mean the German factory option westphalian hitch?)
4. Other tips? I'll hold off on my next "heavy test on cargo rack on hitch on rough roads" until I hear more
I don't have specific recommendations, but here was my scenario:

On a '74 Chevy 1-ton van I installed a class-2 hitch for towing an open light trailer with a small formula car. In a relatively short time span, the sheet metal it was mounted to fatigued and failed, allowing the rear end of the hitch to drag on the ground. I contacted the MFG, and they sent me, as a sign of good will, a class-3 hitch that mounted to and through the "frame", which was made from somewhat thicker formed sheet metal.

After several years of use with a much heavier enclosed trailer, but still well within the advertised capacity of the hitch, the frame and the floor panel it was bolted began to show fatigue cracks. I reinforced the cracked areas with 1/4"-thick steel plates. That solved the issue.

So one has to be very careful to monitor the hitch and attachment point condition to prevent or correct issues.
 

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I don't have specific recommendations, but here was my scenario:

On a '74 Chevy 1-ton van I installed a class-2 hitch for towing an open light trailer with a small formula car. In a relatively short time span, the sheet metal it was mounted to fatigued and failed, allowing the rear end of the hitch to drag on the ground. I contacted the MFG, and they sent me, as a sign of good will, a class-3 hitch that mounted to and through the "frame", which was made from somewhat thicker formed sheet metal.

After several years of use with a much heavier enclosed trailer, but still well within the advertised capacity of the hitch, the frame and the floor panel it was bolted began to show fatigue cracks. I reinforced the cracked areas with 1/4"-thick steel plates. That solved the issue.

So one has to be very careful to monitor the hitch and attachment point condition to prevent or correct issues.
Thanks Dave, much appreciate the tip!


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Still looks like the eco hitch mounts to the surface of the bumper bracket, also etrailer lists the TW at 200# yet Eco hitch themselves rate it at 300#?

Maybe there's different revisions? Either way Weitzenhof hit the nail on the head, there's a reason the OEM bar doesn't use those holes and mounts 4 M8 bolts way in the frame rails 14-18"

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Volkswagen/Golf+Alltrack/2017/306-X7315.html

Either way I'm sure there is a factor of safety involved in any calc I'm just uber cautious.
Thx DD. Much appreciated.
Another ?

I'm not entirely clear on the terminology and can NOT quite envision the mounting of factory OEM hidden folding tow ball- hitch,
Vs ecohitch mounting, but take your word for it

And I am going to get under there and re-check in a couple days with talented mech friend help, go back to rv shop to pull bumper and inspect if need be...

Do you happen to have a link with exploded diagram of the VW hidden hitch for comparison and review?

How would I fab some support from the frame where the factory hidden hitch bolts on to strengthen where the ecohitch bolts on?

Here is why I ask-
I am safety first oriented and OCD about not wanting to give bad advice by default, here

And

I'm not entirely happy with how my cheapo PepBoys cargo rack hangs down a bit, (which is fine I bot it to experiment and will replace as meeded)

And I have put it down to partly saggy butt and failing Firestone bags,
Partly less clearnce by street tires, lots of stuff in back.

If its just flex in cheapo cargo rack I intend to replace after I am sure the ecohitch can handle that extra lever arm of weight away from the tow ball.


Because clearly that condition in pics below cant be allowed to continue as its dragging dirt on rack and bumper edge is NOT good...see pics

Because the last thing I want is jank the whole hitch or bumper off 40 miles out in the boonies...going over a bump..too fast.



So when I
1. solve saggy butt and
2. recheck hitch mount,

3. I'll be looking for a better cargo rack on hitch that fits better like on cristofs Project Talltrak, here:

https://www.facebook.com/projecttalltrack/


Fellas Lets leave this air bags topic

And continue discussion for
cargo and tow hitch specific concerns by moving convo on this part of thread to here.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to....php?p=113880293&share_type=t&link_source=app




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https://www.pfjones.co.uk/westfalia_fitting/321782.pdf

As you can see the mounting points via M10 bolts is well into the frame rails. Again only down side is 190# TW and 2" ball, no 1-7/8' option

Agreed enough with tow bars. I still gotta fix my leaky bags, maybe tonight.
 

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Picked up a valve core tool (amazing what crap "Slime" can hawk for $2.50 these days) I was able to get a solid 1 and 1/2 turns on the core. Aired up to 20PSI last night, it held for a quick drive, will check to see what will be in there tonight.
 

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Picked up a valve core tool (amazing what crap "Slime" can hawk for $2.50 these days) I was able to get a solid 1 and 1/2 turns on the core. Aired up to 20PSI last night, it held for a quick drive, will check to see what will be in there tonight.
Thx! What is "slime"? Linkee?

I have either a very slow leak from approx 30 to 27 psi (or its my poor technique getting the inflator hose clamp off quickly and losing 2-6 psi in the process)
and valve core is a good place to start.

I got these on as valve stem caps which can be used to remove valves on tires, common in orff-roading for faster airing down big tires vs holding valve down with gauge pointy end. Finger tight might not be good enough so your tool is next step.




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slime is just a brand that started off as that goo tire leak sealant then branched out to hawk anything tire related, sadly i was already at a tractor supply and that's all they had for valve core tools.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Slime-20...MIkKCcgL2F5gIVBpSzCh3L0w4UEAQYAyABEgJ7sPD_BwE

So far so good, I haven't checked the PSI since tightening down but we did 400 miles over the weekend and I can still visibly see the rear is up 1" or so, I'll check the PSI sometime tonight. Another 4-500 miles upcoming over the thanksgiving travels.
 

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slime is just a brand that started off as that goo tire leak sealant then branched out to hawk anything tire related, sadly i was already at a tractor supply and that's all they had for valve core tools.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Slime-20...MIkKCcgL2F5gIVBpSzCh3L0w4UEAQYAyABEgJ7sPD_BwE

So far so good, I haven't checked the PSI since tightening down but we did 400 miles over the weekend and I can still visibly see the rear is up 1" or so, I'll check the PSI sometime tonight. Another 4-500 miles upcoming over the thanksgiving travels.
Thx, this is a must have for breakdown/ruffroad kit that lives under the rear floor on too of spare.

Happy Turkey Day!


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I arrived last week from Florida to Montreal. My airlift bags performed flawlessly. I have to admit my load was 1500 lbs. Included an ebike taken apart up in the thule, extra luggage, packing tubs and more luggage plus us two. I moved my air valve next to the gas nozzle under the door. Total gas back home was $210 premium.
We rush home before the March 23 or our Canadian gov't would not cover health ins should we get the coronavirus.
 

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wonder how your tires held up with that much weight on long highway runs like that. Bags def must have helped.

Since tightening my valve core, my bags haven't leaked, i had them about 20PSI most the winter and have since dropped them down to 10PSI for summer.
 

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wonder how your tires held up with that much weight on long highway runs like that. Bags def must have helped.

Since tightening my valve core, my bags haven't leaked, i had them about 20PSI most the winter and have since dropped them down to 10PSI for summer.
I went to Tire Kingdom for a rotation and balance, added 4 extra psi before my trip 2000 mile trip. Tires already had 8k miles, filled bags to 40 psi and no issues on the way home.
 

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I went to Tire Kingdom for a rotation and balance, added 4 extra psi before my trip 2000 mile trip. Tires already had 8k miles, filled bags to 40 psi and no issues on the way home.
I have noticed my bags gain pressure after driving in the summer, not sure if exhaust or hot pavement, but it went from 20psi at the beginning of the trip to 30 PSI after a couple hundred miles in 80F sunny temps, so be careful with over inflating.
 

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I have noticed my bags gain pressure after driving in the summer, not sure if exhaust or hot pavement, but it went from 20psi at the beginning of the trip to 30 PSI after a couple hundred miles in 80F sunny temps, so be careful with over inflating.
Could also be condensed moisture in the bags evaporating (gaseous H2O is 1700 times the volume of liquid H2O) as they get warm. That will cause a larger than expected pressure gain. Same reason dry air or N2 is recommended for tires.

I use desiccated (dried) air for tires. And the trick for race tires if they were not initially inflated with N2 or dry air is to get them warmed up so the moisture evaporates, and then deflate and refill a few times with N2 or dry air. That usually gets the moisture content down to a dew-point where it won't condense and cause issues. You can do the same for the airlifts.
 
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