Bike tubes to armor airline: thats a great tip!Still loving my 4175 Firestones. Held 25 PSI all summer/fall. No saggy butt with heavy trail bike on 1UpUSA. I left my airlines long to compensate for suspension movement. Wrapped lines with gorilla tape and bike tubes at potential rub points.
Thanks, Dave and Dieseldog.I'd worry more about what the bolts are attached to than the bolts themselves. Any flat metal structure is prone to develop fatigue cracks over time due to repeated oscillating loads on the hitch going over bumps and curved freeway slabs. I have had that happen to me...and the hitch was rated way over the load and tongue weight I was towing.
I don't have specific recommendations, but here was my scenario:1. What/how do you recommend?
Remove rear bumper and body clips as in the e-trailer?
2. Take pictures of mounting area metal?
3. What additional reinforcement or alternative connection to frame/unibody do you suggest?
(Dd you reference "the other one" - not sure what other pne - do you mean the German factory option westphalian hitch?)
4. Other tips? I'll hold off on my next "heavy test on cargo rack on hitch on rough roads" until I hear more
Thanks Dave, much appreciate the tip!I don't have specific recommendations, but here was my scenario:
On a '74 Chevy 1-ton van I installed a class-2 hitch for towing an open light trailer with a small formula car. In a relatively short time span, the sheet metal it was mounted to fatigued and failed, allowing the rear end of the hitch to drag on the ground. I contacted the MFG, and they sent me, as a sign of good will, a class-3 hitch that mounted to and through the "frame", which was made from somewhat thicker formed sheet metal.
After several years of use with a much heavier enclosed trailer, but still well within the advertised capacity of the hitch, the frame and the floor panel it was bolted began to show fatigue cracks. I reinforced the cracked areas with 1/4"-thick steel plates. That solved the issue.
So one has to be very careful to monitor the hitch and attachment point condition to prevent or correct issues.
Thx DD. Much appreciated.Still looks like the eco hitch mounts to the surface of the bumper bracket, also etrailer lists the TW at 200# yet Eco hitch themselves rate it at 300#?
Maybe there's different revisions? Either way Weitzenhof hit the nail on the head, there's a reason the OEM bar doesn't use those holes and mounts 4 M8 bolts way in the frame rails 14-18"
Either way I'm sure there is a factor of safety involved in any calc I'm just uber cautious.
Thx! What is "slime"? Linkee?Picked up a valve core tool (amazing what crap "Slime" can hawk for $2.50 these days) I was able to get a solid 1 and 1/2 turns on the core. Aired up to 20PSI last night, it held for a quick drive, will check to see what will be in there tonight.
Thx, this is a must have for breakdown/ruffroad kit that lives under the rear floor on too of spare.slime is just a brand that started off as that goo tire leak sealant then branched out to hawk anything tire related, sadly i was already at a tractor supply and that's all they had for valve core tools.
So far so good, I haven't checked the PSI since tightening down but we did 400 miles over the weekend and I can still visibly see the rear is up 1" or so, I'll check the PSI sometime tonight. Another 4-500 miles upcoming over the thanksgiving travels.
I went to Tire Kingdom for a rotation and balance, added 4 extra psi before my trip 2000 mile trip. Tires already had 8k miles, filled bags to 40 psi and no issues on the way home.wonder how your tires held up with that much weight on long highway runs like that. Bags def must have helped.
Since tightening my valve core, my bags haven't leaked, i had them about 20PSI most the winter and have since dropped them down to 10PSI for summer.
I have noticed my bags gain pressure after driving in the summer, not sure if exhaust or hot pavement, but it went from 20psi at the beginning of the trip to 30 PSI after a couple hundred miles in 80F sunny temps, so be careful with over inflating.I went to Tire Kingdom for a rotation and balance, added 4 extra psi before my trip 2000 mile trip. Tires already had 8k miles, filled bags to 40 psi and no issues on the way home.
Could also be condensed moisture in the bags evaporating (gaseous H2O is 1700 times the volume of liquid H2O) as they get warm. That will cause a larger than expected pressure gain. Same reason dry air or N2 is recommended for tires.I have noticed my bags gain pressure after driving in the summer, not sure if exhaust or hot pavement, but it went from 20psi at the beginning of the trip to 30 PSI after a couple hundred miles in 80F sunny temps, so be careful with over inflating.