If you are concerned about the assembly not being recessed enough u can buy a deep 18mm socket and remove the piston assembly from the housing and re install. Torque spec on that nut on various instructions range from 40-45ftlbs. 40ftlbs/55nm has always worked well for me.

 

If you are concerned about the assembly not being recessed enough u can buy a deep 18mm socket and remove the piston assembly from the housing and re install. Torque spec on that nut on various instructions range from 40-45ftlbs. 40ftlbs/55nm has always worked well for me.

Thanks I appreciate the input. With the follower shattered and what I read about warranty ect, I didn't want to touch it. Ecs overnighted a upgraded piston from 034 motorsports and it's working flawlessly. I had issues with fuel cuts using the i.e piston and found it was pretty much seized in its bore. So far the cheapest piston on the market is showing best running logs without issue. I know sometimes you cam get a bad part but seeing what the apr pump did to the follower I don't think I'd ever feel comfortable worrying about it all the time. I'd recommend 034 motorsports to anyone looking to upgrade. My stock pump has over 138k on it and it's doing it's job

 

Just know when using an aged hpfp with a new upgrade, you are still using the old piston seals (right) that are housed within the hpfp-piston cylinder (left - at the red arrow). Eventually, with the HPFP having 138k+ miles, you may again experience a fuel pressure deficit; for fuel exiting past those seals and into the engine oil. If this happens, you can swap those 034 internals into a new HPFP. These are the seals inside the piston's cylinder I mentioned;

 

Just know when using an aged hpfp with a new upgrade, you are still using the old piston seals (right) that are housed within the hpfp-piston cylinder (left - at the red arrow). Eventually, with the HPFP having 138k+ miles, you may again experience a fuel pressure deficit; for fuel exiting past those seals and into the engine oil. If this happens, you can swap those 034 internals into a new HPFP. These are the seals inside the piston's cylinder I mentioned; View attachment 327800

 

Thanks for the reply I appreciate the input. In searching Google on this engine platform looking into things on our car, I've ran across alot of your posts and YouTube videos chasing down issues.

I've considered this with the seal and will keep an eye on the oil for dilution.

I have a spare pump and thought about soaking that seal in some liqui moly oil saver. I definitely had a fuel smell in the oil with the i.e piston.

Cars not perfect but I'm trying to better it, fuel trims are at 14% can't find a leak anywhere. I've read the pflo intake could be at play

Also considering the tune as a possibility, I was averaging 400 miler per fill up before fueling upgrades without cold start misfires.

Wish I would have stayed in the stage 2 tune anymore.

 

Yeah, the p-flow typically increases the partial trims with an addition of fuel. Mine, with a p-flo are typically near +10%. It once reached +17% and my smoke test revealed the MAF's seal wasn't sealing well in its pocket. I thought it was due to either the depth of the machining for the MAF or due to the crinkle coating extended to the mating surface of the "MAF seal-to-intake." And I too could find no other leak. Fuel trims will not alert you with a code until it exceeds ±25%. I lean toward believing the trims are tune related. But this is for thinking all is well and the engine has good: compression__combustion__timing__etc.. So I have concluded I just need to accept it until something related becomes grossly apparent. Now, the initial ecu command for fuel is also related to temps, could be from air or coolant sensors and the O2 is the one which corrects. So it could always/also have to do with a temp sensor report. Could even be due to a MAF or MAP sensor report. So, again, if running fine and trims are within a range the ECU can manage...just let it go unless someone else has it all figured out.

 

I was holding steady at 14.8% now with the 034 piston I reached 18% brand new maf and map.

My last MAF I sealed with permatex and made no difference. Just sealed the new one today and will check trims again tomorrow.

But man my plug tips are white like they've been torched and my exhaust is smelling stronger with this 034 piston, like roll up the windows hang on your clothes type of smell.

The only small leak I found was at the intake air temp sensor. And strangely it only showed this leak when smoke testing through the intake port that ties in to the lines that connects to the vacuum pump, brake booster lines ect. Smoke testing through the cai wouldn't show this leak but it was minimal anyway and didn't change my trims or cold start issues.

I unplugged the MAF today and logged to see if trims changed and they climbed slower than usual but stopped at 14.8% which is lower than 18, should I run mafless?

Logging my cold start misfire issue showed the throttle valve around 12 degree angle as it misses and once it settles down to 2or3 degree angle if I'm saying that correctly the car smooths out and runs as it should.smooth with no misfires.

Looking at unitronics intake looks pretty much the same with the maf mounted on the top side over towards the turbo a little more. Who makes a stable intake for this platform?

Haven't been able to find a stock intake anywhere to see if that would fix my trims and rule out a phantom leak I can't seem to find.

Can cam and crank seals leak air without dripping oil?

I smoke tested the valve cover for internal leaks and it's good. My rear breather valve seems to work as it should. Pcv diaphragm is good.

Can't afford to just swap tunes I wish I could see tune data through vcds. My spark cut only works in park so I can't test 02 sensors and a few other tests because of this.

Fuel filter is new, coils, plugs, new aem dry filter. Lpfp idles around 50%. Car was healthier at stage 2 stock fueling and seemed to have more power before sadly

Tired of throwing parts at it

 

Looking at unitronics intake...Who makes a stable intake for this platform?
CTS intake seemed to be a good aluminum intake for the EA113. These averages in the pic were posted on the MK6 Golf R forum when the 'R' was new or no more than 2 yrs old. You'll notice only the plastic intakes and the CTS provided the "like OEM" trims. Uni and others not on the list is due to they only posted an average if ten or more posts were made for a specific intake.

Haven't been able to find a stock intake anywhere....
Tough to find, I know. I'm likely to so buy a used 2.0t Passat or Jetta. Just so I can have a spare "unmolested" engine block and parts. I've been seeing a few with under 90k miles for under $5k and completely stock.

Can cam and crank seals leak air without dripping oil?
Not likely.

Not sure what spark plugs you run...but it may be the time to try a plug that's a step or two cooler.
Have you had the injectors serviced/cleaned/volume and pattern tested?

Couldn't tell you what the volume is for stock injectors in "like new" condition should produce.
My K04 injectors are not good if they spray less than 65 cc (or ml) when run constant/static for 15 seconds at 5 bar. New K04 injectors will make 67 to 68 cc (ml). Whoever tests yours, if you choose this, might know the proper volume. Or try contacting R-tech in the UK. Be sure to say yours are injectors for the stock K03 turbo.
R-tech guys can also be contacted here...try Niki Gower or Alex Kerr on the admin. members page;

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Looking at unitronics intake...Who makes a stable intake for this platform?
CTS intake seemed to be a good aluminum intake for the EA113. These averages in the pic were posted on the MK6 Golf R forum when the 'R' was new or no more than 2 yrs old. You'll notice only the plastic intakes and the CTS provided the "like OEM" trims. Uni and others not on the list is due to they only posted an average if ten or more posts were made for a specific intake.
View attachment 328899
Haven't been able to find a stock intake anywhere....
Tough to find, I know. I'm likely to so buy a used 2.0t Passat or Jetta. Just so I can have a spare "unmolested" engine block and parts. I've been seeing a few with under 90k miles for under $5k and completely stock.

Can cam and crank seals leak air without dripping oil?
Not likely.

Not sure what spark plugs you run...but it may be the time to try a plug that's a step or two cooler.
Have you had the injectors serviced/cleaned/volume and pattern tested?

Couldn't tell you what the volume is for stock injectors in "like new" condition should produce.
My K04 injectors are not good if they spray less than 65 cc (or ml) when run constant/static for 15 seconds at 5 bar. New K04 injectors will make 67 to 68 cc (ml). Whoever tests yours, if you choose this, might know the proper volume. Or try contacting R-tech in the UK. Be sure to say yours are injectors for the stock K03 turbo.
R-tech guys can also be contacted here...try Niki Gower or Alex Kerr on the admin. members page;

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[/QUOTE


I'm running nkg iridium in the 8 range temp, my injectors are new audi stamped s3 injectors from Apr so don't think injectors are my problem. Fuel filter was new when installed. I walnut blasted valves then to so they are clean.

I'll keep exploring, I'm going to swap a new rail pressure sensor since I read an article where that fixed someones lawn issue even though they're sensor was claiming to read spot on.

If I don't get any progress there I'll probably swap the upstream o2 and keep my fingers crossed.

Then maybe look into the CTS intake. If all else fails I'll probably go back to stock fueling.

 

The IE intake for EA113/Mk6 Golf R is pretty good.

 

Looking at both intakes, I don't see much difference. They are shaped the same nothing much different about the MAF position compared to a pflo

Unitronics MAF position is closer to the turbo Inlet, but bolt together parts would seem to be less of smooth air flow vs pflo being one smooth peice. I e says custom diameter I see they are 3" that tapers right before the MAF.

The others appear to be 2.75 like the pflo.

 

Going through the intake system trying to get trims down, still above 15. Ran another smoke test today and found the valve cover leaking in the center where the spark plugs sit. This gasket was a Amazon cheap non brand name. Seemed good everywhere else but smoke was coming out of all 4. Thinking the grommet on my bolts could be the issue as they still leaked with more tightening. I decided to try giving them some new life and threw an old set of fuel injector rings over the top of the bolt above the grommet and low and behold it did as hoped and allowed more bite in those center bolts of the vc. No leaks cheap temp fix for anyone who be considering buying a new set of not cheap bolts.

 

Those bolts for the cover are part of its sealing...as you likely know, each has their own seal. So if one or more of the bolt seals are cracked, tightening will not remedy their leaking. Only replacing the sealing-bolts will do;

 

Progress, thinking of anything else to possibly try. I put a hose clamp around the middle of the pcv to try pulling it tighter to the vc

This seemed to bring my trim back to 14.8
Then I filled up at a different station, almost went to our usual station seeing the gas was ethenol free. Tuner had said t use ethenol as it has cooling effects.

Then started thinking about putting the old neuspeed air filter back on. I replaced that a couple months back with an aem dry filter. Which was quite a bit bigger than the neuspeed.

Going for a drive I immediately noticed trims drop to 12.7 this raised eyebrows. Decided to stop at home Depot and grab a couple small pinch clamps to put on each side of the pcv to give some more bite as I felt I was onto something.

Going for a 50 mile ride trims eventually hit 9.8 and I was able to roll the window down without smelling foul exhaust.

Tomorrow I will put the aem filter back on and see if they rise to determine if it was the filter or the Pcv, or ⛽ gas. I got no leaks with the smoke or pressure test but I feel like the car is in remission was running out of hairs to pull thinking internals were just worn ect

Exhaust smells terrible at 17% trims and that's gone so I feel like I can put some new plugs in without whitening the tips running so lean.

 

Switching back to the aem dry filter this morning trims went from 9.2 to 10.5 then climbed to 11.7

Didn't drive as much today as yesterday but the filter definitely is at play.

The neuspeed filter is not new, it came with the car and has 20000+ miles on it from me and who knows it's prior use.

I've washed it a few times and didn't use oil after reading about the problems with mafs and filter oil

I can't seem to think this old pflo filter is breathing better than a new larger aem dry but for what ever cause it brought my trims down.

I think clamping the pcv tighter is another component as trims dropped to 14.8 from the 17 range before swapping filters

so a combination of both changes dropped trims and still need time to see where the new fuel plays into this as I was only getting gas from the same station for quite a while

To much air from the new filter being allowed into the system? Never read anyone reporting that

Goes to show smoke tests aren't a sure diagnosis where a car can be leaking or pulling air through, my pcv gasket was fairly new from a felpro combo pack

I'm going to leave the pflo on for a while and see how low trims settle and next fill up try gas from the old station with ethanol and keep an eye on data

 

Definitely having lower trims with the old pflo filter. Stayed under 10 with trim tonight. One theory is I still have a small leak somewhere.

Possibly that the pflo does flow better than the aem dry filter. Some ads list the dry filter flowing almost as good as the oiled.

So maybe the pflo flowing better pulls the majority of air through the the intake as it should and possibly the aem filter has the car pulling air unmetered through a leak giving a higher trim.

Going to replace the pcv gasket again and reseal that best I can. One screw was not biting like the rest so I used one size up that seemed to hold but maybe not

I think I've been pulling air through part of the pcv as no oil was leaking from it

Gas mileage has improved also, Lately I've been hitting the 3/4 tank mark around 100 miles after a full up where I'm about 140 miles since the trim improvements.

 

You've certainly been going through it. But when looking at the effects of the two filters...you should log its mass air; comparing one to the other. Or even what the mass air is at idle for each. Comparing one to the other at the same time of course....back-to-back after engine is at operating temps. Then maybe log each in the same gear and look at the peak mass air; again, back-to-back. This will tell you if one is more restrictive than the other.

When you smoked it, to detect leaks, did you make sure smoke was making it into the engine/crankcase? If you introduced smoke into the air inlet only, smoke would only enter the crankcase if its PCV was open.

I just saw a drop in the LT fuel trims on mine. Recently; I've replaced the MAF with a genuine sensor and I found the DV relocate (AWE) wasn't tightened well where the DV-mount clamps to the intake-to-turbo hose (following the turbo replacement work done in 2021). Its LTFT (partial) has gone from being near +10% (with a p-flo and AEM DryFlow filter) has gone down to +4.7%.

 

Good point on the MAF readings I'm going to try that, my new pcv gasket came yesterday and I noticed some plastic threads were loose in the vc housing

I used some jb weld and redrilled them for a fresh start.

Threw the aem filter on before heading to the lake yesterday and hit 13% trims within 10miles

Swapped back to the neuspeed filter and again dropped to 10.2 immediately

I did watch engine temp were between 94-96c with the aem I'll have to compare with the other filter.

I do know while going through months of sorting I hit around 230-240 gs on a 3rd gear pull with the aem before I threw a new maf and map at the car.

Smoke definitely made it I to the crankcase I wouldn't get smoke through the oil cap but a slight wetness baby oil ring around it when smoking. Dipstick would always release air smoke when pulling.

I'm going to change Injector seals once more as last time I changed them doing coolant sensor one popped out of my hand and was lost in the gravel I gave up looking for it so one injector went back in with its OEM Teflon seal

Luckily I've had the manifold off so many times its a 20 minute process to remove anymore but I won't stop wondering about air leaking through that one injector until it's redone.

Still noticing for whatever reason the trims drop slightly in s mode over standard drive. Resetting values the car dropped from 8.2 to 7.4 running is s mode.

Gas mileage is great again were about 5500ft above sea level and I have 245 miles in with fuel gauge at half tank last night.

Before the progress I was barely getting 330ish miles per tank last few full ups.

Just glad my trims are in the spec range couple months back I blocked the airway under the wiper sill with plastic to keep the smell from making way into the cabin. Was nice to remove all that last night

I cursed my tuner on this and was wrong. Definitely a combination of pcv and air filter had my trims out of sorts. Coolant temp under the manifold a good possibility of my cold start misfires

Threw alot of parts at the car but at least it has a lot of new sensors to carry it through the rest of it's life and I have a good spare maf map and rail pressure sensors if i ever need

 

Are you sure of the rear vent tube's operation...if valved? Have you made sure it opens and shuts? And checked its proper pairing to the PCV designed for it?

Proper PCV-to-Crankcase breather tube info....

I find having to post this info numerous times. So I will post it here so anyone can just share a link when trying to explain it in the future. There are two designs and combinations of PCV to rear vent/breather tubes. ↓ This rear vent tube with check valve built into it... ↓ If you have the...

www.vwvortex.com

 

Yes, plastic check valve in the rear breather tube, no valve in pcv just rubber diaphragm. Believe my pcv is rev p

When smoke testing vc for internal leaks I checked rear breather. Could blow through it but not pull any air through it.

 

...also, the reason I believe you need to look at the mass air data is because I think you are looking at the fuel trims for each filter in reverse.

I think a more open filter will increase the addition of fuel, and a more restricted filter will reduce the addition of fuel. This is considering it has no leaks and reporting inaccurately.

You could even do a quick check without any filter.

 

And just like that

And just like that my trims are back to 15% only thing I've done is fix the leak at the outlet pipe and refill at my our regular gas station 91 with ethanol. When pressure testing I noticed less oil gurgling if I unhook the hose from the pcv to intake manifold and hold my thumb over it. I want to make something to test the diaphragm with 20lbs of air. Blowing into it by mouth seals but I'm wondering if it leaks under pressure. I only put five gallons in so I'll fill up next at the ethenol free station again in a couple days. Temps are 15 degrees today engine temp was at 90. The gods look down in anger at this poor audi

 

I'll do the MAF comparisons today, makes sense being that the neuspeed filter is really small next to the aem

Something else I found along the way, the pflo intake came with the car when it had a k03

Switching to ko4 and going with unitronics DV relocation I found the pflo is about quarter inch smaller where it mounts to the inlet

Unitronics DV relocation kit is 3" where my pflo intake is 2.75

I cut some spare silicone hose that is also 2.75 i.d with a thickness of 1/4 inch and put a 2" peice of that on the pflo and it fills the difference in perfectly

This way I'm not clamping a 3" Inlet hose onto a 2.75 " intake

But I wonder if I'm supposed to be running a 3" intake with the ko4 and if that effects anything numbers wise

 

I use the p-flo with a K04...but the AWE adapter hose for the DV relocate is smaller and fits the 2.75" intake tube. I was going to buy the Uni-hose, for a spare...because AWE has no more, until I called them/Uni ($40) and learned it was 3". You did the right thing...if the 3" hose/tube was buckling when clamped.

 

I use the p-flo with a K04...but the AWE adapter hose for the DV relocate is smaller and fits the 2.75" intake tube. I was going to buy the Uni-hose, for a spare...because AWE has no more, until I called them/Uni ($40) and learned it was 3". You did the right thing...if the 3" hose/tube was buckling when clamped.
View attachment 335430

I believe a 3" intake would possibly cause the MAF to report less mass air.
The mass air reported on mine near redline, in 3rd, is typically 272 g/s to 280 g/s.

Do you know if your p-flo is the older or newer revision?
The older p-flo (there's not many) had the MAF located too close to the down-bend for the turbo.
It caused reporting issues...and they moved the MAF further away from the down-bend.

View attachment 335434

I have the newer version looking at the pictures

I have a similar issue with hose to hardware diameter with the s hose from the cts intercooler to the neuspeed outlet pipe.

There's a similar gap and I tried something similar like I did on the intake but boost pressure popped the hose off as there was no lip to hold it on

Right now I have it cranked down with a wide t bolt hose clamp but that's the only boost fitting on the car that's not exact anymore

I've tried finding and adapter that was bigger to fit the 2 1/2 hose but ecs CTS or nuespeed only make them in 2.25 for some reason

Doesn't seem to leak under smoke or pressure testing but I'd like to match them correctly. eBay has some custom diameter for skoda but I couldn't verify fitment

My gs numbers are quite a bit lower than yours. I've read several maf number threads before maybe the tune we have is conservative.

Not that I'm looking for more power traction was already an issue before the injector and hpfp upgrade they should have put LSD in these cars

 

I believe a 3" intake would possibly cause the MAF to report less mass air.
The mass air reported on mine near redline, in 3rd, is typically 272 g/s to 280 g/s.

Do you know if your p-flo is the older or newer revision?
The older p-flo (there's not many) had the MAF located too close to the down-bend for the turbo.
It caused reporting issues...and they moved the MAF further away from the down-bend.

 

Looking at my last log 3rd gear pull it shows 231.47 gs at 6480 on g28 which I assume is rpms? And the point where the car shifted into fourth

This log would have been with the i.e piston upgrade that when doing fuel pressure testing the car would only rise to about 60 bar and slowly fall off.

Since using the 034 piston I quickly build to 90 bar when shutting the car off warm and holds the pressure pressure

I'll update new numbers this evening for maf with both air filters

 

3rd gear log produced about the same gs as the prior log with the i.e piston which I'm quite sure had the aem filter at that point. I idled between 2.80 and 3.30 gs today with the neuspeed filter

👆Vid link

What do you make of the boost in the log?

It started raining so I didn't get a chance to log with the aem filter with the car running healthier I'll add those tomorrow but anticipate similar numbers

Notice the trims are in the 7 ranges after logging in s mode as to granny driving in regular drive mode trims are closer to 10

 

Boost pressure difference at idle

 

"What do you make of the boost in the log?" .... What do you make of it?

Boost log in the first video shows boost is much too low; suggesting a large leak or inability to produce/build boost.

The boost target is for 21.7 psi....and it is only making 10 psi. Target/specified is 2500 mbar = 2.5 bar; minus one bar (one atmosphere = 1010 mbar or 1.01 bar) = 1.5 bar = 21.7 psi. Its actual pressure is but 750 mbar or 7.5 bar (more or less) = 10 psi.
So you either have a leak or it has a mechanical failure within the bits responsible for making boost. Start with searching for the leak within the air inlet system. If no leaks are found when trying smoke...have it pressure tested to 20 psi. Still if nothing is detected....try testing, or simply replacing the N75. You can also inspect and confirm the DV's internals are OK. There's more to check, but start with these and do so thoroughly and correctly. If you require professional help with these inspections...I recommend you hire yourself some.

When you log data in the future...be sure to select the "Turbo" button in the upper right before beginning any logs. Doing so will give you more than double the data points you are seeing without selecting "Turbo."

 

Thanks for the math conversion, wasn't sure how to interpret that. Last time I watched a video about boost logs in vcds the guy was highlighting that specified and actual were reversed on his graphs. But obviously something is askew

Being that I just smoke tested I'm going to start with the n75 and see what I can find in threads to troubleshoot that.

I've read something about clamping the line to the wastgate and using a vac pump to test but I need to refresh on it all.

My new map sensor fit tighter than the old one when I installed it. Still noticed a little oil seeping around it. Pulled that today and used some rubber fiber gasket from felpro to see if I can get that completely sealed but it's definitely not what's causing this boost issue. It's always seeped a little bit no matter what sealant I've tried.



This was the message I got trying to look at the n75 in vcds. No matter how I try it I can't anywhere.

Asking the tuner for 2 step I ended up with spark cut that only works in park, not in launch but this screws me out of being able to initiate tests through vcds that call for brake and accelerator in park.

I don't use my boost gauge regularly as I always noticed oil around it and don't feel like tap seals well to the manifold. Last time I checked it spiked at 25 and held at 22 which is what the tuner said it should read

Today I hooked it up and on the highway spiked 25 but fell to 15. All but a couple of my clamps have been upgraded to tbolt clamps recently

My DV is a rev d from ecs so I doubt it's the issue but will check for cracks.

The other thought is the bushing on my wastegate had smoke leaking when I tested through the exhaust. Ecs told me while undesirable it was perfectly normal 🤔
Doesn't sound right

So back to the drawing board, at least my trims are staying in the 7 range.