The mark you see on the fender is the approximate location where the fiberglass will blend onto the metal fender with rivets of course. I set the distance from the other side and drew the line as a reference point to glue the foam up to and then I will carve it away from there down to the wheel well lip.I don't think you should take it as high as the line you have drawn, and try to keep it off the rear door if possible.
Are you keeping the top of the front arch level with the top of the rear? I've seen some HORRIBLE wide body setups (mainly on mk4 2drs) and they started the rear almost touching the back window and it looks like complete ass.
^^^ X2. I like the gas filler idea. It reminds me of an tri-five chevy. Just make sure it's safer than that cage! And watch out for Vortex groupthink. Good luck!I respect you to death right now, you've put up with the typical forum trolls trying to scare away another noob. Constructive criticism isn't very prevalent in these parts and you've managed to take the high road.
That being said, it's good to see the evolution and direction this project is taking. The last few pictures are definitely more along the lines of what I would say "Looks good" so best of luck. And thank Raptor Jesus that cage isn't staying put...
can you say OWNED!!oh, wow!?
the outside of the car i'll leave alone but the cage....
... i'll start with this. if you get into an accident while driving that car, you will probably die along with your daughter because of that cage!
there are strict rules laid out by governing bodies of all auto-racing. here are some plain english explanations for you...
1. the a pillar bars must not have more than 2 bends in them and run as tightly as possible to the roofline, a-pillar and firewall/bulkhead or forward door frame. the A-pillar bars should also be bent as far away from the head of the driver and passenger as possible and as tight to the roof and upper door frame as it can get! -- your bends around your dash mean that you have ZERO structural support and in the event of a front or side impact, the bends at your knee's very likely could break and impale yourself on! or in the case of a roll over, the bends around the dash and vertical bend to your horizontal bend to the main hoop will just serve as a crumple-zone and collapse around you! look at these and tell me what the differences are between them and what you built!
2. the main hoop must not have more than 4 bends total(2 per side) and have no forward or aft bends. this means that if you lay the hoop on the ground, 100% of the hoop should lay flat against the ground. the contour of these bends should also as closely as possible Mimic the shape of the B-pillars and should Not be more than between 4-8" behind the drivers' head....
3. the Dash bar is actually the only thing that isn't bad about this cage as far as safety goes.
HOWEVER, due to the design of the cage, the likely hood of breaking off one of the welds at either end of the dash bar and turning it into a spear to impale yourself or your daughter on in the event of an accident is tremendous! in most cases dash bars are hidden BEHIND the dash or below the steering column above the knee's in full interior stock class racing.
4. you have no rear supports for the main hoop so what you have built again will have no structural strength and in the event of an accident, what you have built will just serve to entomb you in that monstrosity and increase the time needed cut your and your daughter out of the car!
5. correcting some facts by others:
"1st They aren't safe for a street car unless you and your passengers wear helmets. Not true at all. a properly designed and built cage will be safer assuming the driver and passenger are seated and restrained correctly! in the OP's case, definitely not safe but for many other reasons as well.
2nd A proper Race bar should tie in all your shock towers. Again not true! many sanctioning bodies do not allow you to tie a cage into your strut towers for certain classes. this has less to do with safety and more to do with structural rigidity. some do not even require a dash bar at all!
3rd your front cross bar should be closer to the down-tubes that tie your shock towers together to add ridgity to your frame. Again, not true. the dash bar should be at or around the 1/3-1/2way point between the floor and the roof. ideally above the steering column (but depending on the car can be just below the column as long as it does not interfere with the driver or passenger body/legs in any way) and below the lowest point of the windshield. if anything, the dash bar should be closer to the firewall/bulkhead and tucked behind the dash.
4th The down tubes should be gusseted and mounted to your frame rails.Again, not true! in an ideal world where there are no class limiting rules, yes, you should gusset everything including your down tubes and the cage should be tied into the frame rails... however, and again depending on the class and sanctioning body you are going to race in, gussets are not needed nor required for a basic cage installation nor is tying it into your frame rails. is it the smartest and strongest method, YES. is it required, Nope! but in many forms of racing a bolt-on cage that mounts to the floor and not frame rails is still considered acceptable.
5th you have no door bars god forbid you're in an accident your car will fold like a piece of paper Nope, not true again... not having door bars will not result in the car folding like paper... at least not in a properly designed cage. in the OP's case... maybe but there is sooooooo much else wrong with his cage it's really a moot point. the door bars might help reduce intrusion but the lack of rear support bars, no cross brace on the hoop and positioning of the dash bar, they would just direct the force into another area which would fail with the same end result... a gruesome death or dismemberment!
6th A proper bent cage should follow the contours of the interior and be pressed up against
the interior metal and welded to it wherever possible. in an ideal world where there are no rules, yes it should be bent as tight as possible and tied into the chassis everywhere. however, in everything but the extremely expensive to play in classes, structural bracing from the cage to the chassis will bump you out of the class. you need to follow the rules of class you will be racing in and build your cage according to the rules outlined.
the cage i'm building for my car puts me into a class i should be competitive in up here, if i venture down south, i'd be mid-pack in SCCA and i'd be lap traffic in NASA simply because of how i am building my cage and where that puts me into in each of the different sanctioning bodies...
for NASA, i'd be running a purpose built ~300fwhp FWD race car vs 750+rwhp purpose built race cars... not gusseting and using ballast i could drop into a class that would make a podium finish a possibility every race...assuming i can drive of course ! :laugh: