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the right way to start page 9 of this thread

 

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Discussion Starter #283
I don't think you should take it as high as the line you have drawn, and try to keep it off the rear door if possible.

Are you keeping the top of the front arch level with the top of the rear? I've seen some HORRIBLE wide body setups (mainly on mk4 2drs) and they started the rear almost touching the back window and it looks like complete ass.
The mark you see on the fender is the approximate location where the fiberglass will blend onto the metal fender with rivets of course. I set the distance from the other side and drew the line as a reference point to glue the foam up to and then I will carve it away from there down to the wheel well lip.

Well for 12 dollars I mocked up my idea of how I would build the fuel filler door behind my taillight. Here are some pics, let me know what you think. I plan on using a magnetic spring back release for spacing the taillight before I pull on it to open it.

Everyone remember that this is not the final product, just tell me if you have any ideas from the pictures, Thanks.

Closed:


Open with top view (amazingly it says open, it must have ended up pretty balanced):





Close up of the hinge system (the blue piece is angle iron that is 2 x 1.5 to maintain the bend for the taillight to extend as far away as possible):



After everything is setup and in place the bolts will get removed and the hinges will be welded together:



Since there is space where the light curves around the body I mounted the hinge directly to the wall, there is no interference or contact with the light or at least that I can.



 

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Discussion Starter #284
From inside looking directly towards the rear light housing:





You can see from the side view that I probably only added 1.25 to 1.5 inches behind the housing, this is where I would mock up the filler door location and then dive into sheetmetal fab.

Another top view:



Back side to show how I mounted everything to the taillight housing:



Inside view with total extension:



Please give me some input on what you think about this.

I think of adding a actuator or some sort of electromechanical device to assist with the opening would be helpful, however, I want it as a secondary means of opening. Manual with power options would be greatly appreciated.

Right now I am using the three screw mount locations as a guide for final snapping into place, I just need to figure out how to mount the retainers and everything else.

Thanks to everyone for the support and help. I will work again in another couple of days due to work requirements. Thurs and Fri I will do more.
 

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I respect you to death right now, you've put up with the typical forum trolls trying to scare away another noob. Constructive criticism isn't very prevalent in these parts and you've managed to take the high road.
That being said, it's good to see the evolution and direction this project is taking. The last few pictures are definitely more along the lines of what I would say "Looks good" so best of luck. And thank Raptor Jesus that cage isn't staying put...
^^^ X2. I like the gas filler idea. It reminds me of an tri-five chevy. Just make sure it's safer than that cage!:rolleyes: And watch out for Vortex groupthink. Good luck!
 

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get some strong flat magnets so that way it stays latched. i'd like to see the finalized version of it, cuz as you already know, it looks like a mangled mess.

I did this "mod" to my trunk and hood on my civic I used to own. the trunk would lift up and sit flat like it did when it was closed, and the hood would lift normally and then you could tilt the front down and it would rest on the valve cover
 

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Discussion Starter #292 (Edited)
Update:

Latest update:

Well after contracting the shingles (chicken pox for adults) and going through treatment (Valtrex - herpes medicine) for the last 2 weeks (very painful, I was eating percocet like candy and doing as little as possible) I have began to work on my project again. I finished 3/4 of the other side except for the filler area, in regards to finding the correct solution to my filler door problem.

I am going to go to the junk yard to cut out the fuel filler surround and door from another VW and use it as a base for the taillight mod. I plan on using two parallel bars as supports for the guide and purchasing a 6 to 8 inch 12V linear actuator to extend the taillight out and then have the hinge mounted to the push plate to the side for ease of filling my fuel. The actuator will be mounted behind the fuel surround in the trunk and the shaft will have a quick release pin therefore I could pop my truck and remove the QRP and push the taillight out if problems occur with the electronics. The parallel bars will be sleeved for maximum support and alignment so the taillight should have a smooth operation when completed. I will weld in the filler surround to attempt to create an air tight seal (which will have minute amounts of fumes due to the support bars being sleeved to the trunk area) and fill misc things with fiberglass. Also, I plan on have a vent tube travel down through the trunk floor and to the atmosphere. Once again this means I changed the route in which I started in yet another project. I will utilize only a few of the hinges I purchased but the mock up for $12 was well worth it.

The actuator has ~50-75 lbs of force assocaited therefore the ability to hold the taillight in retracted or extended mode will be a lot more than what I really need but the price will cost in the $100 range.

I will post more pics when I figure out the bandwidth issue with photobucket and I get the fuel filler surround.

What other sites will let me download a lot of pictures? What does everyone use other than photobucket?
 

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www.flickr.com will let you host alot more picture than photobucket.

I had shingles but I didn't have to take medicine like that for it. I got it from an eyebrow piercing rupturing a nerve and causing it which I thought was weird. Almost cost me partial/complete vision in my left eye :thumbdown:
 

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Discussion Starter #294 (Edited)
Thanks.

Herpes is more serious than I orginally thought no matter the location on the body.

I am thinking of attempting to use the stock M10 bolts mounted to the light (brass color) to use for the parallel bars by welding a cap on the end and tapping it for the bolt or just welding in a nut on the end. I am planning on using the two stock bolts on the left for the pushing and pulling Then I don't need to add other mounting location somewhere on the light to push the taillight away from the surround.

Just running my thoughts out loud, I am guessing of running 1/2" bars with 3/4" sleeve guides all 1/8" thick. I will mock it up with some pvc I have laying around to get a feel for the operation and take some pictures for everyone to criticize after I get the filler from the junk yard.
 

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i didn't even read past the first page. this is a horrible build thread. you just of just made a "what i plan to do" thread instead.
 

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oh, wow!?

the outside of the car i'll leave alone but the cage....

... i'll start with this. if you get into an accident while driving that car, you will probably die along with your daughter because of that cage!

there are strict rules laid out by governing bodies of all auto-racing. here are some plain english explanations for you...

1. the a pillar bars must not have more than 2 bends in them and run as tightly as possible to the roofline, a-pillar and firewall/bulkhead or forward door frame. the A-pillar bars should also be bent as far away from the head of the driver and passenger as possible and as tight to the roof and upper door frame as it can get! -- your bends around your dash mean that you have ZERO structural support and in the event of a front or side impact, the bends at your knee's very likely could break and impale yourself on! or in the case of a roll over, the bends around the dash and vertical bend to your horizontal bend to the main hoop will just serve as a crumple-zone and collapse around you! look at these and tell me what the differences are between them and what you built!
http://www.google.ca/images?client=...&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1267&bih=564


2. the main hoop must not have more than 4 bends total(2 per side) and have no forward or aft bends. this means that if you lay the hoop on the ground, 100% of the hoop should lay flat against the ground. the contour of these bends should also as closely as possible Mimic the shape of the B-pillars and should Not be more than between 4-8" behind the drivers' head....

3. the Dash bar is actually the only thing that isn't bad about this cage as far as safety goes.
HOWEVER, due to the design of the cage, the likely hood of breaking off one of the welds at either end of the dash bar and turning it into a spear to impale yourself or your daughter on in the event of an accident is tremendous! in most cases dash bars are hidden BEHIND the dash or below the steering column above the knee's in full interior stock class racing.

4. you have no rear supports for the main hoop so what you have built again will have no structural strength and in the event of an accident, what you have built will just serve to entomb you in that monstrosity and increase the time needed cut your and your daughter out of the car!

5. correcting some facts by others:

"1st They aren't safe for a street car unless you and your passengers wear helmets. Not true at all. a properly designed and built cage will be safer assuming the driver and passenger are seated and restrained correctly! in the OP's case, definitely not safe but for many other reasons as well.

2nd A proper Race bar should tie in all your shock towers. Again not true! many sanctioning bodies do not allow you to tie a cage into your strut towers for certain classes. this has less to do with safety and more to do with structural rigidity. some do not even require a dash bar at all!

3rd your front cross bar should be closer to the down-tubes that tie your shock towers together to add ridgity to your frame. Again, not true. the dash bar should be at or around the 1/3-1/2way point between the floor and the roof. ideally above the steering column (but depending on the car can be just below the column as long as it does not interfere with the driver or passenger body/legs in any way) and below the lowest point of the windshield. if anything, the dash bar should be closer to the firewall/bulkhead and tucked behind the dash.

4th The down tubes should be gusseted and mounted to your frame rails.Again, not true! in an ideal world where there are no class limiting rules, yes, you should gusset everything including your down tubes and the cage should be tied into the frame rails... however, and again depending on the class and sanctioning body you are going to race in, gussets are not needed nor required for a basic cage installation nor is tying it into your frame rails. is it the smartest and strongest method, YES. is it required, Nope! but in many forms of racing a bolt-on cage that mounts to the floor and not frame rails is still considered acceptable.


5th you have no door bars god forbid you're in an accident your car will fold like a piece of paper Nope, not true again... not having door bars will not result in the car folding like paper... at least not in a properly designed cage. in the OP's case... maybe but there is sooooooo much else wrong with his cage it's really a moot point. the door bars might help reduce intrusion but the lack of rear support bars, no cross brace on the hoop and positioning of the dash bar, they would just direct the force into another area which would fail with the same end result... a gruesome death or dismemberment!

6th A proper bent cage should follow the contours of the interior and be pressed up against
the interior metal and welded to it wherever possible. in an ideal world where there are no rules, yes it should be bent as tight as possible and tied into the chassis everywhere. however, in everything but the extremely expensive to play in classes, structural bracing from the cage to the chassis will bump you out of the class. you need to follow the rules of class you will be racing in and build your cage according to the rules outlined.


the cage i'm building for my car puts me into a class i should be competitive in up here, if i venture down south, i'd be mid-pack in SCCA and i'd be lap traffic in NASA simply because of how i am building my cage and where that puts me into in each of the different sanctioning bodies...
for NASA, i'd be running a purpose built ~300fwhp FWD race car vs 750+rwhp purpose built race cars... not gusseting and using ballast i could drop into a class that would make a podium finish a possibility every race...assuming i can drive of course ! ;) :laugh:
can you say OWNED!!
 
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