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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I will be installing ATP GEN II sometime second or third week of March. This question really goes out to those who have installed the system themselves. I (along with hopefully the help of a couple more knowledgeable friends) will be doing the install. Has anyone done the install themselves? Any tips/suggestions on things to look out for when doing the install? Thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Me.
Make sure the coolant line is trimmed down to the shortest length possible (from block to turbo) run it BEHIND the oil return line.
The hardpipe section of the oil return line needs to be bent so that it will properly clear the axle. The flexible section gets bent an extra 90 degrees so its easy to kink it. You may have to rotate the flex-line on the crimped connection point slightly.
Easiest install method is from below, and remove the passenger side axle. You will need special torx bits for this, as well as the axle nut remover at the hub.
By kickin out the controle arm, you can remove the axle without too much fuss.
Watch the horizontal bolt holding the controle arm to the subframe (K member) the nut welded to the interior of the K frame broke off its welds on mine, and its a REAL PAIN to fish it back into place.
(Im going to have to replace the whole subframe at some point)
So spray some liquid wrench in there. And put antiseize on those bolts when they go back in.

When the install is complete, drop the car down and verify that the oil and coolant lines clear the axle fully and cannot drop back down.
I left one of my coolant lines too long, and it dropped onto the axle at some point, I nearly burned through it before I smelled burning rubber..


Also, watch out for an issue with the oil return connection on the turbo.
The studs ATP used left too much of a shoulder (didnt go in deep enought) and interfered with the flange making full contact with the machined surface. So it leaked despite having the nuts fully tightened.
I ended up just sticking a second gasket on to stop the leak, but If I had taken the time, I should have used a drill to tap out the bottom of the two bolt holes on the flange so it would clear the stud shoulder. Plus made the bolt holes on the gasket a bit larger too.
Make sure the oil feed fitting on the top of the turbo is on tight enough, because you will have to drop the turbo off the manifold again in order to access it should there be a leak.
Lastly, remove the large allen bolt that retains the two black coolant lines that run next to the turbo inlet pipe. And leave it out.
Makes mounting the turbo, and TIP a LOT easier. And with the billet aluminum TIP, you wont clear those lines at all.

Also, good luck getting the stock oil feed line out. I had to cut mine in half.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (Seanathan)

Yeah...sounds like you certainly had some issues, but many thanks for the informative writeup. I think this will be very helpful to both myself and others who are going to install the kit themselves.
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a few... the subrame bolts were siezed when a certain dolt took an impact gun to em. He busted the damn nuts off the subframe and didnt tell me. (installed the neuspeed subframe brace)
Nice little surprise for me. Drilled a hole in the base of the k-member and managed to fish it back into place in a couple of minutes.
The rest I chalk up to inexperience.
 

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Re: (Cypher2k)

Quote, originally posted by Cypher2k »
Me.

The hardpipe section of the oil return line needs to be bent so that it will properly clear the axle. The flexible section gets bent an extra 90 degrees so its easy to kink it. You may have to rotate the flex-line on the crimped connection point slightly.

My oil return line is still kinked, i alredy had to bend mine to avoid it rubing to the axle. in wich direction did you bent it? and where can you rotate the felxible section? i thought this would cause it to leak or snap.
 

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My only suggestion is to look at the line, and see how its rotating along its length like a mobius strip.
I rotated mine a few dregrees to alleviate the kink. And did not run into problems with any leaks, but thats not to say that you wont.
Where the cap on the flex line is pressed onto the hard line is where I used a pair of vice grips and rotated it slightly.
I would avoid this if you can. I dont know how much abuse this connection can take.
Try using a set of pliers to force open the kink by pinching the line back out.

That being said. ATP should have just made a proper oil return line instead of trying to reuse the stocker. It just doesnt fit well at all.
 

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Re: (Cypher2k)

Quote, originally posted by Cypher2k »
My only suggestion is to look at the line, and see how its rotating along its length like a mobius strip.
I rotated mine a few dregrees to alleviate the kink. And did not run into problems with any leaks, but thats not to say that you wont.
Where the cap on the flex line is pressed onto the hard line is where I used a pair of vice grips and rotated it slightly.
I would avoid this if you can. I dont know how much abuse this connection can take.
Try using a set of pliers to force open the kink by pinching the line back out.

That being said. ATP should have just made a proper oil return line instead of trying to reuse the stocker. It just doesnt fit well at all.


do you have any pics of your oil return line?
 

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Re: (Cypher2k)

I completely agree with you they should of provided one, Well im going to try rotating it slightly if that doesn't work Ill have one made at a machine shop. thanks.
 

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Re: (Cypher2k)

I didn't do the Stg II kit but I did install the RS kit on my car. I didn't completely remove the axle on my car. I just removed the 12pt bolts on the inner CV and then moved the shaft out of my way when I needed the access. I pretty much mimicked APRs setup on coolant and oil lines. Not sure if you can do this with the Stg II kit but my oil return line goes down behind the axle and then around and under it.


I installed the coolant line that goes from the turbo to the block so that it ran off towards the drivers side of the car then made a 180 and came back to the block.
 

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Yeah I just realized that my oil return is slightly rubbing the axle...I was pretty sure I bent it enough to clear...2 options get a new one and try again or make one using what ATP has to offer...
 

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Re: (Don R)

ATP sells their oil return line for between 75 to 90 bucks.... I replaced my kinked stock hose on my stage 2 with their oil return line (I didnt like the idea of oil being backed up into the turbo).... just run the line behind the axle like in the picture above.... also make sure you have the gasket for the oil pan and a gasket for the turbo.... good thing is you can replace the line without removing the turbo, axle, etc.... just remove the shield over the passenger side axle/cv boot and use a 10 to take the bolts off the turbo. Just make sure you tighten everything really well, and check for leaks.
 

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Re: (atekipp)

Yeah I just ordered:
- (2) Aluminum - oil Drain Flange (GT)
- (2) Oil Return Gasket - GT series
- (1) Oil Return line -10 AN - 14" ST/90
- (1) Straight 1/2" NPT to -10 AN fitting
- (1) 90° 1/2" NPT to -10 AN
I hope this will work...
 
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