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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been an issue before...but so far I have not seen any variations in my fuel trim; they still are pretty consistant. I noticed the crack is topside of the joint weld from the transition to the elbow. Not sure if it cracked all the way thru.
So...either I fix it; cut it, bevel it, and purge weld it or I conjure up a mod to follow the one I 3D modeled and similiar to Chris' mod...OR! I go for a completly different turbo setup...Hmmmm GT3071R anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: ATP II 3" DP Cracked... (VDUBNDizzy)

Quote, originally posted by VDUBNDizzy »
Get a real manifold in there this time too.

 

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Re: ATP II 3" DP Cracked... (Don R)

Quote, originally posted by Don R »


Don just get the 35/40R i got your back dogg,
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (Cypher2k)

Quote, originally posted by Cypher2k »

Sucks to hear about the DP.. Should be an easy fix though..

Have you had this prob at all yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (Cypher2k)

Yeah check where the elbow is welded to the transition...I might have to take a closer look. It possibly could be discoloration that might be resembling a crack.
 

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Re: (Cypher2k)

Quote, originally posted by Cypher2k »
no carbon, no crack.

And remember kids, just say "NO" to Crack!

Seanathan also has a 3" ATP Stg2 DP that has a crack in it.
Whatever happened to those high performance 3" DPs
that several peeps were working-on for ATP Stg2 applications?
 

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Re: (exS4)

Quote, originally posted by exS4 »

Whatever happened to those high performance 3" DPs
that several peeps were working-on for ATP Stg2 applications?

I built mine a few weeks back, but the car is havin some issues so I haven't been driving it much. I need to get some better fans for the place I dyno at and I'll be doing a back to back test soon of the two. I bought a welder this week so I'd beable to make them. Basically I'd sell you the upper pipe portion you'd get the flange and clamp from atp and then it would bolt right up to your existing test pipe or cat from atp
 

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Re: (Cypher2k)

ALOT... Just the bends alone are over 100 bucjks before the v band flange at the top and the 3 bolt flange at the bottom and the time for making them.... which is why I want to do some real testing on it first, because you will also need to either run an FMIC or modify the stock IC pipe along the back of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (chris86vw)

Yeah that sounds like a plan...I would of course wanna go with modifying the stock IC chrge pipe...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (Don R)

Well I finally took off the downpipe and took some pics.
It seems like there is exhaust leaking out from the flange...It might need a crush metal gasket.

Nice crack...I'm going to bevel and purge weld for a full penetration weld


I'm going to weld a 3/8" or 1/2" bar between the flange and the transition to give it more strength (less defelection from torque) Also, the flex shuold be welded closer to the flange b/c of this.

I'll post pics of the repair....
 

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Thats a seriously bad crack.
I wonder if you were heating it up too much due to your pig rich conditions on the early file, combined with your lead foot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (OneQuickDub)

This was installed in November...so it hasn't been that long.
YEah and maybe it's do to my lead foot not a prob tho
 

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Re: (Don R)

Quote, originally posted by Don R »
YEah and maybe it's do to my lead foot not a prob tho

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I am sure that's it...

BTW my ko3 ATP DP cracked right on the weld, not as bad as yours but it also didn't have that nasty bend on it either...I rewelded it and never had a problem again...
 

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Re: (Don R)

I think what people have found is that with the flex up any higher it does not take the rocking of the motor as well and is more prone ot cracking.
 
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