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Howsit guys

Just did a turbo conversion on my 3.2 vr6, thought i'd add some random info / observations for anyone that is interested.

Setup:

3.2 vr6 24v bmj
9:1 cr / forged pistons and rods
Chinese gt3582r, with a big twin scroll kkk 1.0 A/R exhaust housing, rebuilt and balanced. Running 0.5 bar boost.
76mm DP and exhaust with 63mm stock resonator box chilling in the middle (havent had time to replace it yet) Lips sealed
Ebay cast exhaust manifold
38mm external wastegate
bosch 044 fuel pump,rising rate adjustable fpr and surge tank (with return line)
Stock 280cc injectors @ 4bar]
Stock intake manifold
Stock MAF
DCPR8 spark plugs
100% methonal injection for some extra safety for now.
External EGT gauge.
Everything else still stock, including stock ecu tune.

Okay, starting from the beginning.....

I basically bolted on a turbo kit that i made, all the above specs but with stock motor and stock c/r. Ran 0.5bar, car pulled insanely hard, ran around 14 degrees advance, 12.5 afr. Would have easily eaten a stock A45 AMG. Grin
I was impatient, waited to long for head spacer plate to arrive, hence why i drove the car, excitement got the better of me lol Long story short, ended up cracking a piston on cylinder 1. No surprise there.

I have since put in wossner pistons and forged rods.

Did the first 500km break in, in stock NA mode.

The car is now boosting again, exact same setup as before but with lower compression ratio.
The drivability of the car is fine, besides for part throttle boosting obviously, thats sometimes a bit jerky.
The logs are rather interesting too.

Car makes 0.5 bar boost just under 4k rpm in 3rd, barely any boost in 1st gear, but when its in boost it breathes so nicely Grin So im really happy with the turbo choice!
The car is running between 18 and 24 degrees advance with low timing pull with 100% methonal injection.
Hits maf limit on stock maf @ 0.5bar, just above 290 g/s.
So far only running on the LAMFA map, requesting 0.899 lambda and its meeting the requested fueling under load. Part throttle fueling obviously crap. Injection timing sitting around 14 ms.
EGT's hit 920 degrees celcius with a 5th gear pull to redline.

Running the car without methonal injection is a different story. (in high gear mainly, >= 4th gear)
EGT's still dont go above 920 degrees, but it obviously starts requesting other fueling strategies, and dumping fuel.
Timing advance is hard to say as it jumps around a lot, i would say around 18 degrees but with scary 8.5 pull.

Busy building the intake manifold now, as soon as its done i will pop the 550cc injectors in and begin the mapping.
Will try give as much info as i can regarding mistakes and observations and tips for anyone that might need it.

Loving the car, pulls really hard!!! Grin
Will be doing a base dyno asap!

Anyways vids below:

Stock motor, without wmi.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twyCjSYNutU

Built motor, 100% methonal injection... 0 to 170 km/h
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDoyOHwmAq0

Built motor, 100% methonal injection...4th gear
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4q2GzJk6UpA
 

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Car pulls very nice!
I have completed 2 of these particular builds in the past. Let me know if you need anything (spare parts, advice, or any trouble you run into with tuning the car.) cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Mk3 VRT, Mk4 VRT, B5 VRT, A3 VRT, B6 VR, B5 BT
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Show some engine bay/build pics.

Actually impressed it's doing so well on stock fuel management.
 

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just starting to look into option to put urbo on 2006 A3 3.2 Quattro DSG.
Does the stock ecu (not sure what make/model) allow for boost control?
 

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Currently no, think stock NA car, no map sensor & N75/similar. Expectation is mechanically control boost.
 

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Very interesting, doing similar thing on my Porsche Cayenne

So, it looks like you can go pretty stock if 0.5 bar is enough. I'm doing similar project and i'm interested to know how did you resolve O2 sensor issue? I mean, did you just connect them to same pipe or do you have some other setup? Wouldn't that cause severe fuel trim drifting?

I mean, Audi too has bank1 and bank2 separated and two catalytic converters, right? Porsche has 4 O2 sensors, two for each bank, two of them being wideband.
 

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So, it looks like you can go pretty stock if 0.5 bar is enough. I'm doing similar project and i'm interested to know how did you resolve O2 sensor issue? I mean, did you just connect them to same pipe or do you have some other setup? Wouldn't that cause severe fuel trim drifting?

I mean, Audi too has bank1 and bank2 separated and two catalytic converters, right? Porsche has 4 O2 sensors, two for each bank, two of them being wideband.
both lambda must be like this one at cyl1 other cyl6

https://ibb.co/7QXTWq9
 

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both lambda must be like this one at cyl1 other cyl6

https://ibb.co/7QXTWq9
Interesting. I actually already fitted them like they are on HPA manifold. What is the difference? My fuel trims seem just fine now. Does it have something to do with cold and hot cylinders?

http://uli.ulicode.fi/cayenne_exhaust.jpg

And if anyone is interested. I currently have stock everything (ECU, engine etc, intake) expect for turbo exhaust manifold and straight downpipe (secondary cat still installed). I pushed around 300g/s of air thru engine at 0.7bar. 0.5-0.6bar feels fine. Pistons didn't melt yet atleast. Tried 50% ethanol, didn't work, very jerky so i'm running 98 octane. Oh and did some tricks with vacuum hoses too, looks like boost really messes up variable intake system.
 

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Update : I melted my piston(s).

After some hard pulls (WOT from 50km/h -> 130km/h), it started to push exhaust from oil cap, but is not burning oil.

Must be because 1. Had lazy o2 sensor on bank 2 (i could see it from data) 2. knock sensor on that same bank didn't work properly 3. It was pushing 0.7bars.
Reasons 1 and 2 basically removed all protection for lean condition...

Game over. Lessons learned : 1. Make sure engine is in top tick before fitting turbo 2. compression must be lowered 3. ethanol should be used.

https://youtu.be/qPbmMaGpyrA its in finnish but has english subtitles.

Turbo kit is for sale! .. :)
 

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When you rebuilt your engine did you increase the ring gap I’m going turbo and have the block stripped but need to find out what gap the rings should be when changing from NA to turbo
 
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