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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day fine gents, I am currently at the battle with my audi a3. I recently changed the head gasket as it cracked and was leaking oil, and while I was at it. I Changed everything else as well, water pump, thermostat, timing set both sides, gaskets etc. I also installed a k04 064 turbo with forge actuator. I did not do the fuel pump upgrade. My car has software done by a company in durban south Africa called autotronics backed my gts global tuning solutions. The file is still for the k03 as i wanted everything 100% before re tuning for the k04. On the first run after my repairs I did not notice the heat gauge as i was dog tired and worked on the car the whole day and night till the sun was up. So the car sort of overheated i think. I gave it some time switched off, and had a few pin leaks fans ran and i got home. Thereafter i thought my issue was because of the pin leaks which i fixed. I ran the car for about 2 months now with no issues besides 1. The fans come on too late. I thought it was a faulty stat. Changed that tonight and nothing, no difference at all. My fans are only coming on high speed at the temperature of 117 deg C. (G62 ). My radiator outlet temp stays low, not sure why. Starts from cold at 36 deg C and goes to max 39 deg C (radiator outlet). I have also changed both temp sensors. I have tried another working fan unit. I have replaced water pump and all running parts. A good guy with these engines say head gakset is gone. Some others say could be blocked radiator, i did a flush as well last week. Some ppl say water pump, some said outside air temp sensor. Basically everything in the cooling system. Im lost here guys. My first speed never comes on my fan, i tested a mk 5 gti golf and his comes on at 85 deg c. And keeps the car not going more than 90 deg celcius. What the hell is going on??? My wiring is still in so good condition that it is still covered by the factory material tape, rubber covers etc. I suspected auxiliary water pump as well, changed that and that also doesn't work, I have put 12v to it and the new 1 works but not activated by the car, I tried unpligging it with the engine running and fans come on, put the plug back and fans stops. What gives guys please help i have no idea what this sorcery is 馃檲
 

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2008 VW Rabbit, MT, 3-door
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Bunch of questions. Some more or less dumb mistakes. Take no offense. I am just throwing ideas. Call it a brain storm.

Is the thermostat installed correctly?

Was the system bled properly?
Is it a correct thermostat? For it to work properly it must close small loop to let water pump push through the large loop.
Any chance there is a bypass/coolant hose loop that allows for coolant to recirculate? Maybe something is connected to a wrong outlet/inlet? As a result, coolant instead of going "forward" is turned back. Hence slow flow through the radiator.
Of course water pump... but it seems it was covered.
Of course other mistakes, like a wrong head gasket or improperly installed and covers coolant passages.

Basically, it seems you have an obstruction. Is it in the radiator? Maybe... Did you flush it in reverse flow?

As for explanation why it hits at high speed. Well, you have 36 C outlet, 110 C inlet. Engine is hitting overheating region, computer wants to find a way to cool it down. I had similar thing, but mine had only wiring messed up on the outlet what resulted in radiator on high almost all the time.

I will keep thinking. Maybe something else pops to my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks bud I appreciate your feedback. Yes thermostat can only be installed one way, it is in a plastic housing. As for the head gasket I do remember it also only going one way as if you flip it the other way it will not match all the holes and passages on the block. As for the piping as well they all only go one way, some are made as bigger outlets on one end and smaller on the other i guess so you dont make a mistake like this. The only difference on the head gasket was I applied shellac (loctite) to ensure it does not crack the gasket like the last time. But i am now thinking it did that the last time as this was the problem and I had not noticed. As for bleeding the system. I literally spent about an hour massgaing the pipes before startup and let the coolant sit in the system overnight with the reservoir cap off. The next day i massaged the pipes again for about 30mins. I also ran heater for a while to help with flow and alleviate air. The thermostat which i suspected was a WAG brand name from a huge spare shop we have here in south Africa called goldwagen, so i bought a mahle thermostat and fitted that last night with the hopes of that being the problem. I also felt the exact pipe that the thermostat is in and gets to the same temperature (hot) as all the other pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just a thought, but do you think not having my AC gassed up n running could cause the first speed on fan not to activate as it also uses the first speed when AC is turned on.
 

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Good day fine gents, I am currently at the battle with my audi a3. I recently changed the head gasket as it cracked and was leaking oil, and while I was at it. I Changed everything else as well, water pump, thermostat, timing set both sides, gaskets etc. I also installed a k04 064 turbo with forge actuator. I did not do the fuel pump upgrade. My car has software done by a company in durban south Africa called autotronics backed my gts global tuning solutions. The file is still for the k03 as i wanted everything 100% before re tuning for the k04. On the first run after my repairs I did not notice the heat gauge as i was dog tired and worked on the car the whole day and night till the sun was up. So the car sort of overheated i think. I gave it some time switched off, and had a few pin leaks fans ran and i got home. Thereafter i thought my issue was because of the pin leaks which i fixed. I ran the car for about 2 months now with no issues besides 1. The fans come on too late. I thought it was a faulty stat. Changed that tonight and nothing, no difference at all. My fans are only coming on high speed at the temperature of 117 deg C. (G62 ). My radiator outlet temp stays low, not sure why. Starts from cold at 36 deg C and goes to max 39 deg C (radiator outlet). I have also changed both temp sensors. I have tried another working fan unit. I have replaced water pump and all running parts. A good guy with these engines say head gakset is gone. Some others say could be blocked radiator, i did a flush as well last week. Some ppl say water pump, some said outside air temp sensor. Basically everything in the cooling system. Im lost here guys. My first speed never comes on my fan, i tested a mk 5 gti golf and his comes on at 85 deg c. And keeps the car not going more than 90 deg celcius. What the hell is going on??? My wiring is still in so good condition that it is still covered by the factory material tape, rubber covers etc. I suspected auxiliary water pump as well, changed that and that also doesn't work, I have put 12v to it and the new 1 works but not activated by the car, I tried unpligging it with the engine running and fans come on, put the plug back and fans stops. What gives guys please help i have no idea what this sorcery is 馃檲

Have you done an output test on the cooling fans, the should both ramp up to about 100% and then ramp back down again.

Your screen shot show 93掳C/199掳F for G62 & 39掳C/102掳F for G83 I take it that is at running temp. You have not gotten a code for this issue yet? This is a graph from a cold start of the G62 in gray & G83 in blue on a none issue FSI.

Rectangle Slope Plot Parallel Font


Here is the complete log may take a while to load because it cover like several minutes of log time. TuneZilla Log Viewer

You may want to do a log from a cold start of the both sensors
 

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....................I also ran heater for a while to help with flow and alleviate air....................
There is no coolant flow valve to the heater core that is mechanically turned off and on that I know of, the flow through the core is constant.

Check the return line to the expansion tank to see what the water pump is doing.

BWA engine was also used in MK5
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Correct in mk 5 golf gti, I have performed output test on fans, it takes a while and ramps up for about two secs and ramps back down. The whole test takes like 10 secs to complete, is that normal? I have not pulled a log like that, I can try that and post tonight here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, no codes at all bro. I noticed twice so far i think after 30 min drive the radiator outlet temperature sensor comes up as an error. And then when i clear it takes a while to come back on. 18613/P2181/008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System. I think it was 2185, but it doesn't come up often. Very rarely.
 

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2008 VW Rabbit, MT, 3-door
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Well, of course it will give this error as radiator outlet is cold, while engine is very hot.

Graph the data. Is the outlet temp steady reading? Faulty wiring (loose connection) will have the temp to jump quickly.
 

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No, no codes at all bro. I noticed twice so far i think after 30 min drive the radiator outlet temperature sensor comes up as an error. And then when i clear it takes a while to come back on. 18613/P2181/008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System. I think it was 2185, but it doesn't come up often. Very rarely.

Have the scan for this code that you got, if you did not save the scan do not worry because a real Rt vcds tool will save any auto scan made even if you did not save it in the RT folder named SCANS, Rt got tired of people say I did not save it so they do it for you.

Seems you still have an issue with T-stat, and just to confirm you are replacing this, I ask because recently some thought the T-stat was on side of head.

Camera accessory Auto part Automotive wheel system Engineering Event
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes thats the one i changed, 2nd brand new 1 now. And to answer you PLP i felt the pipe, bottom of this thermostat pipe where the sensor is, its the same temp as the rest of the pipes. My wiring seems fine as to what i can see. I inspected what was exposed when the head was off. The rest is still covered by original rubber covering and factory material tape. With no burns, scorches etc. Also another reason why i think the wiring is fine is because the vcds would pick it up, eg short to plus or electrical circuit probs etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, of course it will give this error as radiator outlet is cold, while engine is very hot.

Graph the data. Is the outlet temp steady reading? Faulty wiring (loose connection) will have the temp to jump quickly.
I tried unplugging the connector while reading data etc. Goes down to 14 deg c. But wen i unplug g 62 connector it goes into minus and fans come one. On the outlet when unplugged fan does not come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Have the scan for this code that you got, if you did not save the scan do not worry because a real Rt vcds tool will save any auto scan made even if you did not save it in the RT folder named SCANS, Rt got tired of people say I did not save it so they do it for you.

Seems you still have an issue with T-stat, and just to confirm you are replacing this, I ask because recently some thought the T-stat was on side of head.

View attachment 150446
Yes thanks bud. Fully aware the thermostat is in that housing and you cannot mix up the installation or install it the wrong way as some say. It only goes in one way. My tool is a clone but works really well, its a version 21.9. My understanding of the stat is that most of the time its either stuck closed or open. I felt the housing at normal operating temperature and it feels the same hot temperatures as the rest of the coolant pipes. Which leads me to beleive there is another issue and also that i just chnaged this stat 2nd time now from new. Also a better brand to make sure (mahle). The flow seems fine in terms of the t stat if the housing is getting hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey GTI sorry for the wait here is the link and a log I did just now again but this time showing the problems in temp and whole log was from cold and stationary vehicle with a few 4000 rpm revvs to get temps up.



This is the only other code I had even when the vehicle was k03 with software upgrade, car ran perfectly though at that time.

1 Fault Found:

000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)
P000A - 008 - Slow Response - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 216414 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.01.18
Time: 11:43:37

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1425 /min
Load: 51.7 %
Speed: 38.0 km/h
Temperature: 94.0掳C
Temperature: 40.0掳C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V


Readiness: 0000 0000

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Take the log file and drop over at TuneZilla Log Viewer and post the link for that page back here if you can.
Hey GTI sorry for the wait here is the link and a log I did just now again but this time showing the problems in temp and whole log was from cold and stationary vehicle with a few 4000 rpm revvs to get temps up.

TuneZilla Log Viewer

log.tunezilla.com
log.tunezilla.com


This is the only other code I had even when the vehicle was k03 with software upgrade, car ran perfectly though at that time.

1 Fault Found:

000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)
P000A - 008 - Slow Response - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 216414 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.01.18
Time: 11:43:37

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1425 /min
Load: 51.7 %
Speed: 38.0 km/h
Temperature: 94.0掳C
Temperature: 40.0掳C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V


Readiness: 0000 0000

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
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