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Discussion Starter #1
So I want to stop better. I already have Hawk HPS pads, Motul RBF600 brake fluid. No stainless lines, from what I've been told, they won't make too much of a difference on a street car since stock lines are already reinforced. I have a lot of questions...
For people that have the 312 mm brake upgrade, is it worth it? Is there less fade? More bite? How does the extra unsprung, rotating weight feel in comparison to stock (37.5 lbs for rotors, 6.4 lbs for brackets for the 312 mm)? Is the weight difference significant (stock rotors weigh in at 35 lbs, and I think the brackets are ~6 lbs)?
Are R32 brakes worth it over a TT upgrade? They use a cast "two piece" rotor that has an aluminum center and is 334 mm x 32 mm rather than 312 mm x 25 mm. However, I believe the front set of rotors weigh in at 45 lbs and the calipers & brackets are also 45 lbs.
I'm curious because I want to minimize unsprung weight but want to increase braking performance. If anyone knows the weight of the stock calipers that would help a lot too.



Modified by Dirtistasty2 at 11:01 PM 7-1-2008
 

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Re: Audi TT 312 mm brake upgrade - is it worth it? (Dirtistasty2)

i got the R brakes adn i http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: (Greg_J)

Quote, originally posted by Greg_J »
ecs stage 2 big brake kit....from what i heard its well worth it

Yea, but it's also $450 for new rotors... New R32 rotors are ~$250, and TT rotors are $130, stockies are only $70
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: (bluebora20v)

doh! I just figured more people here would know especially between 334 mm ones and 312 mm ones... how do you like 'em?
 

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Re: (bluebora20v)

Quote, originally posted by bluebora20v »
Why didn't you ask me? Both Brian and I on the local boards have the upgrade.

you didn't bother answering his question, lol, you are good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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FV-QR

The TT upgrade is nice. You aren't gaining a whole lot though over the stock VR/1.8T brakes. A little increased brake force but also increased mass and higher inertia. With the Hawks and good fluid, the setup should be good for most everything you throw at it. The Motul is overkill for the street btw as are the HPS pads (rather, the HPS pads are not as well suited for the street as say HP pads). The R upgrade is nice and OEM with good stopping ability but they weigh a freaking ton. They also have dual pistons but I'm not sure if the piston area/pad surface area is larger than the single piston calipers. In any case they will have a more even application and wear characteristics. I think unless you really need the extra braking, they R brakes are overkill. You also need 17" wheels minimum with the R brakes. If you really want to go bigger/better get real two piece rotors to drop the weight and bigger calipers. I guess it depends on what your needs are and what sacrifices you are willing to make. Also, the R upgrade will bias your braking more towards the front unless you upgrade the rears accordingly.
 

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Re: FV-QR (Dirtistasty2)

I got the upgrade, it's definitely noticeable from the stock 11.3 in the 1.8ts and vr6s - but really, if you want best stop for budget, just upgrade the rotors to slotted for heat dissapation and some good ferodo pads...
but if you do upgrade, you'll notice difference in stopping - as well as your acceleration since you have more rotaional mass at that point... unless you get ECS's floating rotor upgrade...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: FV-QR (dragonfli_x)

interesting... those extra ~3 lbs per side can really be felt during acceleration, eh? Have you noticed your suspension being harsher on sharp bumps also?
 

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Re: FV-QR (Dirtistasty2)

not really sure.., but I did some suspension upgrades at the same time so I have no true frame of reference...
is it only 3 lbs difference? that's not too much of a gain... but you'd be surprised how much difference it makes when you go from 17" wheels to 18" - that's normally 3-5lbs difference right there

also on a side note... if you drop your suspension to something stiffer... try removing your swaybar as it's not as needed as much... big difference in weight savings and more responsive steering from my prior experience.
to add to your comment about brake fade - a set of crossdrilled rotors or a set of slotteds for street will be best. (subnote: yes, crossdrilled rotors have a tendency to spider under EXTREMELY SEVERE circumstances - but then again, they are originally a track only brake rotor (one race use, then replace)
also finding a way to force air directly on your brakes will help with overheating... shouldn't be too concerned about that unless you are doing massive amounts of mountain/valley runs, roadracing via sanctioned events, or your "fast" is extremely spirited



Modified by dragonfli_x at 8:41 AM 7-7-2008
 
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