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Has anyone done it yet?
AWD
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Re: (magilson)
Oh yea? Didn't realize the R32 came with a 2.0T.
| Quote, originally posted by magilson » |
| VW did with Haldex's help. They put it in the R32. |
Oh yea? Didn't realize the R32 came with a 2.0T.
Double sarcasm!
I don't think anyone's one it yet for a 2.0TFSI.... buuuut, there is a 4 banger AWD Golf out there in a 2.0TDI version.
I don't see why it would be so difficult to do the job. Switch out the rear suspension setup, exhaust, fuel tank, etc... to the OEM AWD version of the drivetrane and it should work? Though it would probably set you back a pretty penny.
I don't think anyone's one it yet for a 2.0TFSI.... buuuut, there is a 4 banger AWD Golf out there in a 2.0TDI version.
I don't see why it would be so difficult to do the job. Switch out the rear suspension setup, exhaust, fuel tank, etc... to the OEM AWD version of the drivetrane and it should work? Though it would probably set you back a pretty penny.
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Re: (Kid Hobo)
It almost seems like it would be all plug and play. Just need a totalled R32. But what about an A3? They only come AWD in DSG though. HAve some tranny issues..
It almost seems like it would be all plug and play. Just need a totalled R32. But what about an A3? They only come AWD in DSG though. HAve some tranny issues..
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Re: (MFZERO)
I remember hearing things a while back like:
"The channel underneath the car that the exhaust runs through is so big"
"It seems that you could fit the r32 drive train in there also"
I would love to see a picture of the bottom of the gti and the bottom of the r32 side by side.
I remember hearing things a while back like:
"The channel underneath the car that the exhaust runs through is so big"
"It seems that you could fit the r32 drive train in there also"
I would love to see a picture of the bottom of the gti and the bottom of the r32 side by side.
Re: (Couch Gentleman)
Transmission with center driveshaft output. No quattro dsg 4 clylinder application in the US so trans would be very hard to acquire, possibly you could combine a 3.2 dsg with a 2.0t dsg bell housing assuming there are the fittings in the 2.0t bell housing, they are there but not machined on the manuals
For a manual you luck out as the 02m from 225tt is almost identical to the 02q in the A3. I still have not determined which flywheel clutch you would have to use since they list a different flywheel for the 1.8t and 2.0t for aftermarket applications. Used ones seem to be going for about 1500-2000
Gas tank must be changed out along with both fuel pumps.. About 1400
whether you go TT driveshafts or A3 driveshafts they are about 400 each plus a core charge on the front two for the TT.. rears are new units.
Center driveshaft is about 2K for the TT, both are smiliar in length, don't have my notes on me.
rear subframe is 900, but its nice and light aluminum.
Brace for rear subframe is 200 I think.
rear swaybar is about 150
The control arms show to be different but superscede to the same
Rear bearing housings, 350 each side I think
bearings and hubs about 150 each side.
Now the real tricky part.. The rear haldex unit has to be matched to the final drive in the transmission.. So if you use a 3.2 dsg with a 2.0t bell housing you can use the 3.2 haldex unit. If you have a manual and use a TT trans then you must use the TT haldex unit. The TT haldex unit unfortunately does not bolt up to the A3 rear subframe so you would have to fabricate brackets.
Also then if you use the TT haldex unit you would need to use the TT rear driveshafts. The fronts appear to the be same.
Both haldex units are about 5K from the dealer.. I think about 2K used for a TT one.. if you find a 3.2 haldex unit used.. you are one lucky bastard, no vw/audi specific yard I have contacted has had a wrecked A3 3.2 yet.
Now the other problem with the TT unit is that its the old haldex and it may or may not communicate with the rest of the car to pick up the wheel speed. IF it does not then you will need to pick up one of those standalone haldex units.. This is good and bad.. This basically makes the haldex unit locked.. Which means no delay till it locks.. However good and bad it also has temp sensors and other thigns.. So if the clutches in the haldex unit start to overheat it will disengage and you are back to only FWD til it cools off.. So at a hard track day you may start off AWD but end up FWD. With haldex really tied into the system it will be constantly engaging and disengaging when you do and don't need it.
Labor really wouldn't be that bad if it wasn't for possibly fabrication of the rear diff hangers.
Oh and you woul dneed a new turboback exhaust since the whole system is different
What HPA charges is a little high.. You can get a wrecked TT for about 5K right now and there are many people who can barely change their own oil who have installed it including cutting out and welding in an R32 floor pan into their mk4 1.8t in about a weekend.
If you have a whole wreck its really straight forward to do in a Mk4.. Due too many variances in the setups for fwd vs awd in the A3 its slighly more complicated and alot of bugs need to be worked out.
Its not impossible and it does not have to be even that expensive if you do it right.. And it will get done eventually.......
Transmission with center driveshaft output. No quattro dsg 4 clylinder application in the US so trans would be very hard to acquire, possibly you could combine a 3.2 dsg with a 2.0t dsg bell housing assuming there are the fittings in the 2.0t bell housing, they are there but not machined on the manuals
For a manual you luck out as the 02m from 225tt is almost identical to the 02q in the A3. I still have not determined which flywheel clutch you would have to use since they list a different flywheel for the 1.8t and 2.0t for aftermarket applications. Used ones seem to be going for about 1500-2000
Gas tank must be changed out along with both fuel pumps.. About 1400
whether you go TT driveshafts or A3 driveshafts they are about 400 each plus a core charge on the front two for the TT.. rears are new units.
Center driveshaft is about 2K for the TT, both are smiliar in length, don't have my notes on me.
rear subframe is 900, but its nice and light aluminum.
Brace for rear subframe is 200 I think.
rear swaybar is about 150
The control arms show to be different but superscede to the same
Rear bearing housings, 350 each side I think
bearings and hubs about 150 each side.
Now the real tricky part.. The rear haldex unit has to be matched to the final drive in the transmission.. So if you use a 3.2 dsg with a 2.0t bell housing you can use the 3.2 haldex unit. If you have a manual and use a TT trans then you must use the TT haldex unit. The TT haldex unit unfortunately does not bolt up to the A3 rear subframe so you would have to fabricate brackets.
Also then if you use the TT haldex unit you would need to use the TT rear driveshafts. The fronts appear to the be same.
Both haldex units are about 5K from the dealer.. I think about 2K used for a TT one.. if you find a 3.2 haldex unit used.. you are one lucky bastard, no vw/audi specific yard I have contacted has had a wrecked A3 3.2 yet.
Now the other problem with the TT unit is that its the old haldex and it may or may not communicate with the rest of the car to pick up the wheel speed. IF it does not then you will need to pick up one of those standalone haldex units.. This is good and bad.. This basically makes the haldex unit locked.. Which means no delay till it locks.. However good and bad it also has temp sensors and other thigns.. So if the clutches in the haldex unit start to overheat it will disengage and you are back to only FWD til it cools off.. So at a hard track day you may start off AWD but end up FWD. With haldex really tied into the system it will be constantly engaging and disengaging when you do and don't need it.
Labor really wouldn't be that bad if it wasn't for possibly fabrication of the rear diff hangers.
Oh and you woul dneed a new turboback exhaust since the whole system is different
What HPA charges is a little high.. You can get a wrecked TT for about 5K right now and there are many people who can barely change their own oil who have installed it including cutting out and welding in an R32 floor pan into their mk4 1.8t in about a weekend.
If you have a whole wreck its really straight forward to do in a Mk4.. Due too many variances in the setups for fwd vs awd in the A3 its slighly more complicated and alot of bugs need to be worked out.
Its not impossible and it does not have to be even that expensive if you do it right.. And it will get done eventually.......
Re: (chris86vw)
All that smack talk about easy and cheap I think you just nominated yourself first Chris
![]()
![]()
All that smack talk about easy and cheap I think you just nominated yourself first Chris
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Re: (chris86vw)
Chris You could be the first??
![]()
I have everything EXCEPT the above just waiting to go in too my GLI
![]()
Bob.G
p.s.
IMO the easy way to go to control this is a standalone controller, just add 12v and ready to rock and roll.
Modified by rracerguy717 at 1:31 PM 5-16-2007
| Quote, originally posted by chris86vw » |
Gas tank must be changed out along with both fuel pumps.. About 1400 whether you go TT driveshafts or A3 driveshafts they are about 400 each plus a core charge on the front two for the TT.. rears are new units. rear subframe is 900, but its nice and light aluminum. Brace for rear subframe is 200 I think. rear swaybar is about 150 The control arms show to be different but superscede to the same Rear bearing housings, 350 each side I think bearings and hubs about 150 each side. |
Chris You could be the first??
I have everything EXCEPT the above just waiting to go in too my GLI
p.s.
IMO the easy way to go to control this is a standalone controller, just add 12v and ready to rock and roll.
Modified by rracerguy717 at 1:31 PM 5-16-2007
Re: (rracerguy717)
the only thing that is annoying about the controllers is that it stays locked up too much.. Its like driving a 4X4 truck with a locked center diff... both mine have had that and on dry roads if you forget to take it out of 4wd it really sucks...
Also its gonna stress the clutches alot more probably requiring you to do more often fluid changes to make sure you don't kill them.
I checked out the wiring diagrams betwen a 3.2 A3 and a 3.2 TT and 1.8t TT and it lookd like you would just have to connect power, ground, can h and l, and a vehicle speed signal or something like that.
| Quote, originally posted by rracerguy717 » |
IMO the easy way to go to control this is a standalone controller, just add 12v and ready to rock and roll. |
the only thing that is annoying about the controllers is that it stays locked up too much.. Its like driving a 4X4 truck with a locked center diff... both mine have had that and on dry roads if you forget to take it out of 4wd it really sucks...
Also its gonna stress the clutches alot more probably requiring you to do more often fluid changes to make sure you don't kill them.
I checked out the wiring diagrams betwen a 3.2 A3 and a 3.2 TT and 1.8t TT and it lookd like you would just have to connect power, ground, can h and l, and a vehicle speed signal or something like that.
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4,373 Posts
Re: (chris86vw)
I've got a euro a3 2.0t quat driveline in the shop, been wanting to explore it some more. Maybe when stage 3 is installed and testing is done, I might get to have an awd GTi if I can make it work.
| Quote, originally posted by chris86vw » |
the only thing that is annoying about the controllers is that it stays locked up too much.. Its like driving a 4X4 truck with a locked center diff... both mine have had that and on dry roads if you forget to take it out of 4wd it really sucks... Also its gonna stress the clutches alot more probably requiring you to do more often fluid changes to make sure you don't kill them. I checked out the wiring diagrams betwen a 3.2 A3 and a 3.2 TT and 1.8t TT and it lookd like you would just have to connect power, ground, can h and l, and a vehicle speed signal or something like that. |
I've got a euro a3 2.0t quat driveline in the shop, been wanting to explore it some more. Maybe when stage 3 is installed and testing is done, I might get to have an awd GTi if I can make it work.
Re: ([email protected])
I had a 3.2 A3, my A3, and a 1.8t TT all on the lift next to each other just taking measurements and checking parts for hours one slow day at the dealership.
That combo of parts you have should work very easily.
the biggest hurdle with the TT parts is mounting the actual haldex unit.
| Quote, originally posted by [email protected] » |
I've got a euro a3 2.0t quat driveline in the shop, been wanting to explore it some more. Maybe when stage 3 is installed and testing is done, I might get to have an awd GTi if I can make it work. |
I had a 3.2 A3, my A3, and a 1.8t TT all on the lift next to each other just taking measurements and checking parts for hours one slow day at the dealership.
That combo of parts you have should work very easily.
the biggest hurdle with the TT parts is mounting the actual haldex unit.
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Re: ([email protected])
This is exactly where my mind was headed...
| Quote, originally posted by [email protected] » |
I've got a euro a3 2.0t quat driveline in the shop, been wanting to explore it some more. Maybe when stage 3 is installed and testing is done, I might get to have an awd GTi if I can make it work. |
This is exactly where my mind was headed...
Re: (chris86vw)
I think with a few pictures this could be a DIY
![]()
I think with a few pictures this could be a DIY
| Quote, originally posted by chris86vw » |
| Transmission with center driveshaft output. No quattro dsg 4 clylinder application in the US so trans would be very hard to acquire, possibly you could combine a 3.2 dsg with a 2.0t dsg bell housing assuming there are the fittings in the 2.0t bell housing, they are there but not machined on the manuals For a manual you luck out as the 02m from 225tt is almost identical to the 02q in the A3. I still have not determined which flywheel clutch you would have to use since they list a different flywheel for the 1.8t and 2.0t for aftermarket applications. Used ones seem to be going for about 1500-2000 Gas tank must be changed out along with both fuel pumps.. About 1400 whether you go TT driveshafts or A3 driveshafts they are about 400 each plus a core charge on the front two for the TT.. rears are new units. Center driveshaft is about 2K for the TT, both are smiliar in length, don't have my notes on me. rear subframe is 900, but its nice and light aluminum. Brace for rear subframe is 200 I think. rear swaybar is about 150 The control arms show to be different but superscede to the same Rear bearing housings, 350 each side I think bearings and hubs about 150 each side. Now the real tricky part.. The rear haldex unit has to be matched to the final drive in the transmission.. So if you use a 3.2 dsg with a 2.0t bell housing you can use the 3.2 haldex unit. If you have a manual and use a TT trans then you must use the TT haldex unit. The TT haldex unit unfortunately does not bolt up to the A3 rear subframe so you would have to fabricate brackets. Also then if you use the TT haldex unit you would need to use the TT rear driveshafts. The fronts appear to the be same. Both haldex units are about 5K from the dealer.. I think about 2K used for a TT one.. if you find a 3.2 haldex unit used.. you are one lucky bastard, no vw/audi specific yard I have contacted has had a wrecked A3 3.2 yet. Now the other problem with the TT unit is that its the old haldex and it may or may not communicate with the rest of the car to pick up the wheel speed. IF it does not then you will need to pick up one of those standalone haldex units.. This is good and bad.. This basically makes the haldex unit locked.. Which means no delay till it locks.. However good and bad it also has temp sensors and other thigns.. So if the clutches in the haldex unit start to overheat it will disengage and you are back to only FWD til it cools off.. So at a hard track day you may start off AWD but end up FWD. With haldex really tied into the system it will be constantly engaging and disengaging when you do and don't need it. Labor really wouldn't be that bad if it wasn't for possibly fabrication of the rear diff hangers. Oh and you woul dneed a new turboback exhaust since the whole system is different What HPA charges is a little high.. You can get a wrecked TT for about 5K right now and there are many people who can barely change their own oil who have installed it including cutting out and welding in an R32 floor pan into their mk4 1.8t in about a weekend. If you have a whole wreck its really straight forward to do in a Mk4.. Due too many variances in the setups for fwd vs awd in the A3 its slighly more complicated and alot of bugs need to be worked out. Its not impossible and it does not have to be even that expensive if you do it right.. And it will get done eventually....... |
Re: (Edwin T.)
Other then welding in the mounting brackets for the center driveshaft, making a new downpipe, and making the mounts for the haldex unit to the rear subframe if you used a TT haldex unit with an A3 rear subframe..
yes it actually would be as easy as some other DIYs.
| Quote, originally posted by Edwin T. » |
| I think with a few pictures this could be a DIY
|
Other then welding in the mounting brackets for the center driveshaft, making a new downpipe, and making the mounts for the haldex unit to the rear subframe if you used a TT haldex unit with an A3 rear subframe..
yes it actually would be as easy as some other DIYs.
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Re: (GTIR6)
Which might make it easier to convert current 2.0t platforms into awd. Especially once somebody wrecks the brand new car their parents bought them for their sweet 16, lol...
| Quote, originally posted by GTIR6 » |
| Audi is set to release a A3 2.0T Quattro next year |
Which might make it easier to convert current 2.0t platforms into awd. Especially once somebody wrecks the brand new car their parents bought them for their sweet 16, lol...
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