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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Man, I have been searching for that alternator mount for a crow's age. That's actually what led me here haha. I knew the cast version existed, but I have never even seen such a clear picture of one, let alone a part number. It is crucial for my vision on the diesel fox wagon. Beautiful work!! Loving the details. Port, polish or paint every part :beer:

LMK if you ever feel like recasting replicas of that bracket :laugh::facepalm::screwy:
I got this bracket from a guy on eBay that I used to know personally. Great guy, but he moved far from me. Check him out, and maybe send him a message to see if he can find another one. He, like us, has a love for the odd ducks.

bry8s2003

I was originally thinking of making a bracket from steel, and just welding it up. I did notice on a friends diesel Dasher (stock, OEM) that they had a similar bracket made of steel, but I'm not 100% certain if that one would work for you, or me. I believe it would. That one MIGHT be slightly easier to find. There were a lot more Diesel Dashers with no AC and of course no PS, than there were QTD with no AC or PS.
Maybe a good solution would be cardboard templates and find someone with a water jet or something.

Thanks for the kind words about the project, I really appreciate that.
 
I got this bracket from a guy on eBay that I used to know personally. Great guy, but he moved far from me. Check him out, and maybe send him a message to see if he can find another one. He, like us, has a love for the odd ducks.

bry8s2003

I was originally thinking of making a bracket from steel, and just welding it up. I did notice on a friends diesel Dasher (stock, OEM) that they had a similar bracket made of steel, but I'm not 100% certain if that one would work for you, or me. I believe it would. That one MIGHT be slightly easier to find. There were a lot more Diesel Dashers with no AC and of course no PS, than there were QTD with no AC or PS.
Maybe a good solution would be cardboard templates and find someone with a water jet or something.

Thanks for the kind words about the project, I really appreciate that.
I appreciate the lead! Every time I scour the internet for a diesel dasher, the owner either doesn't wrench/want to wrench...or just flat out doesn't want to sell parts separately. Ironically, I have the Dasher diesel lower bracket, which is just three holes in an L shaped bracket... the easiest one to make. I would be much more motivated to make multiples if I had one as a template...I would blue print it like a champ! But as far as reinventing the wheel from scratch, It would have been much easier while I had it on a stand! I don't care to fab in such a tight space, and I am NOT taking out the manifolds again haha.

For now, I just have a belt stretched from the crank to the water pump, and it's fine. I also learned about the split pulley system, which is something I had gotten used to with aircoolers. I discovered that Vanagons have split water pump pulleys, and I believe they may have also come in two hub sizes like our waterpumps.

I just drive the Fox like a hybrid. Just hook it up to the charger at the end of the day, and all is well. Good old diesel... it really don't ask for much, if you don't ask much of it.:laugh:

I am just about ready to sell the little wagon, but you could guess how easy it is to sell a car with no alternator. I finally found a bracket that I believe can be modified, but I am still reaching out to a few more sources before I actually give up hope and start grinding.

On that note (should anyone else show up here in the same boat) ACME adapters has a passenger side mount for a GM alternator. Unfortunately, it was built with a Suzuki Samuri in mind, and not our front snub mount. It does look l usable with some modification to lower the alt, but it's a fair chunk of change for something you would have to hack into. If I ever get a blue print made, I will certainly share my findings.:beer:
 
Amazing work, that is one beautiful 16v... love the work that went into each part and lucky you for finding one of those unobtanium QTD alternator brackets!!

Are you planning on running a timing belt cover? On the one hand I’d be weary of running a 16v without a cover but on the other hand it would just look so good...

cheers!
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Thank you Alain. I was not intending to use a cover.
I've thrown one belt, on an 8V, since 1992.
I figured if a belt comes off a 16V, then it's damage is the least of my concerns?
I have considered building a hoop to go over it, to protect the hood, but not sure.
How real of a threat is the belt coming off?
 
Thank you Alain. I was not intending to use a cover.
I've thrown one belt, on an 8V, since 1992.
I figured if a belt comes off a 16V, then it's damage is the least of my concerns?
I have considered building a hoop to go over it, to protect the hood, but not sure.
How real of a threat is the belt coming off?
It's not the belt coming off. It's foreign objects getting into the belt and causing it to come off.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
It's not the belt coming off. It's foreign objects getting into the belt and causing it to come off.
Understood.
I am using the lower piece, although cut up.
I'll be looking into some more protection. I won't be covering the whole belt, but I've got some things in mind to address this. Being longitudinal, that's an easier task I think.
 
Thank you Alain. I was not intending to use a cover.
I've thrown one belt, on an 8V, since 1992.
I figured if a belt comes off a 16V, then it's damage is the least of my concerns?
I have considered building a hoop to go over it, to protect the hood, but not sure.
How real of a threat is the belt coming off?
If I understand you, the belt getting damaged or destroyed would be the least of your problems.

If you mean the damage caused by the belt breaking, your head would be ruined and probably your pistons. (Assuming stock or higher Compression Ratio.)

I don't know if the head would be rebuildable. That depends on the incident. The block would probably be rebuildable but again that depends on the incident.

I'd run a timing belt cover from an Audi 80 16V to make sure nothing derails the belt.

Expanding on what matty kirk posted:

You would not have time to shut off if you ran over a piece of debris on the road and it wedged itself between the belt and a pulley.

The hood getting damaged is also the least of your problems. A belt shredding wouldn't even phase it other than a minor scuff.

I had a timing belt break on my '78 Scirocco 1.5L and it was no big deal, but that wasn't an interference engine.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thank you! I finally have the engine in the car. I'm so excited to see it in its home. And I finally got around to making a car build thread.
Dasher 16V | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum
So, a ton of stuff to do before starting. Need to figure out cooling. The oil pan and air horns are preventing me from using a stock radiator. Trying to figure that out now. Either mod the one I have, or get a Honda Civic radiator, or have a full custom one made.
Then it's on to ignition, and fueling, and getting some gauges setup. At least in the engine bay temporarily.
So, with all that said, First startup won't be anytime real soon.
That's why I'm trying to decide if I should leave the motor as is, with assembly lube, or if i should fill up with oil and prime the oil pump and send some lube thru it. :unsure:



 
Although, it's too late now, I like using assembly grease when it comes to long term rebuilds. Grease will not leak out. I also pack the oil pump gears in grease so it will start sucking oil when that day comes.

Although, I'm certain assembly oil will not leak out of all the surfaces, it's more of my opinion vs facts on the grease.
 
Hey OB1 this build looks great! I'm working on this very setup for my Audi Fox. Can you show a picture of the cylinder head water flange that is screwed on below the carbs?
I got a hold of the flange from Pierce Manifolds and was wandering if it clears the throttle linkage.
Would you happen to have the p/n's for the crank pulleys. My 16v didn't come with pulleys.Thanks. Tony
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Tony, my issue with that block off plate is that it's designed to have vacuum pulling on it. There is no source for vacuum on a car with Webers. Stock FI with it's large cylinder sharing plenum works well so you're not ingesting oil vapor into just one cylinder like you would with Webers.
You could possibly put an angled pipe into the exhaust header, and it MIGHT give some vacuum to pull through the catch can, but I'm not really sure about that.
It's just my untested opinion that that small (MUCH smaller than OEM) opening to the crank case is going to cause a significant restriction to the crank case without adequate vacuum.

It is no doubt a challenge to maintain the same ~1.125" diameter all the way out of the block like factory did, when using carbs. Really makes things cramped. As much as I like catch cans (with vacuum), I'm just not sure they will work so well with Webers. I'm leaning towards a catch can with a breather/filter, but with same size plumbing as OEM. But I will likely just use stock size plumbing going up higher than the outlet on the block and putting a filter on that, and calling it good.

This is a very frustrating topic, and I haven't really gone down this road yet. It's only frustrating because with all of my searching, there is very little detailed info here or elsewhere as to what people have done and what works or doesn't work.
 
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