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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there all, I'm AJ and I like VW's. Back in 2011 I was looking to get a b3 wagon after parting my SC'd Cabriolet and being down to one vehicle. Sadly, I couldn't find one so I ended up with another MK1 (mk1 jetta diesel) right after selling off all my cool mk1 parts. Go figure... :banghead:
Anyways, after that turned into a disaster, I got the car all up and running with a 2.0aba motor and a big stg3 60/63 AR turbo on MS 3.57, I lay low... until recently, I was contacted by a friend to see if I was still interested in his 1993 vr6 tornado red Passat. After going back and forward, he recommended me to another b3 wagon, a 1991 16v auto with a bad tranny that used to belong to me... that was then sold to me and received this past Sunday. :peace: My families first car was a 1991 forest green passat 16v manual in Germany, back in... 1991, so a bit of sentimental value is going into this project and is really one of the main reasons why I wanted to get a b3 wagon to begin with.

My plan is to partially part out *cry* my corrado and swap in the AAZ 1.9TD motor that's in her + Fix AC + Manual Swap. The wagon will be getting a bunch of cool isht to boot from my corrado, which will be (most likely) completely stripped down and thrown into storage or something. I have some cool pieces, like a b3 TD cluster, that I can FINALLY FREAKIN USE! I love doing diesel swaps because then I don't have to get the car smogged anymore :)... and can run veggie oil :D. I have a secondary aluminium tank (10 or 15 gallons, can't remember) that I'm also planning on adding if I can... because EVERYONE needs a 28/33 gallon tank filled with diesel, mwahaha.

Anyways, I noticed this forum moves a little slowly so I'm going to post up some pictures now before people scream "PIX PLOX!" or whatever. :laugh: And, there isn't many because this will be a bit of a slow build as my time is limited, and the car is at my shop instead of at home *THANK GOD*.







:D

-AJ
 

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I've never seen that style engine check light . Must be a California thing . Nice colour , done right calypso looks great .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So today I got a little busy with 2 things. 1: the heater core was busted. Not internally, but one of the inlets inside of the engine bay broke off. I proceeded to remove the dash and get that changed out. From there, part 2, was the manual pedal cluster swap. From what I have read online, I came to one fascinating conclusion: people are idiots. No, you can not install the clutch master cylinder bracket without removing the goddamn ABS unit completely. And, the knee bar is so easy to remove, it's not even funny (especially in comparison to a Corrado or a MK1 Cabriolet). I took a few photos to point out certain things that are kind of important and others that are just "hey, do this- it will make your life easier". I could have saved myself 30 minutes had I just removed the abs unit, but you live and learn.

The first piece of busy work. Remove all the switches, knobs, and junk, and loosen the 2 rear bolts on the e-brake console to slide **** back to get the center console base out. Very easy and simple. Here is where I was at:


As you can see, lots 'o switches and junk. A lof of these just pop right out so this is easy peasy. I think it's a 3mm allen screw that holds the auto knob in place. The relays clip to back of the console- just slide them out.


2 at the bottom and 1 on top. Remove these and then remove the outside covers for the knee bar- there you fill find, on each side, 2 big allen head screws that you unscrew and the whole kneebar comes out!:


OOOOOOOOOOOOPS! Forgot to remove the one stooooopid screw on the drivers side that holds the cover in place that covers up the wiring and the fuse pannel. Remove this prior to dropping the kneebar ;)


3 screws that need to be removed from the glove box- that's easy. This is also a good time to pop out the light and shove it underneath the dash sideways.


Here are the lower 3. Easy peasy:


After popping out the lower cover for the HVAC unit, I was happy to see the light had snapped in 1/2 on me :mad: This can be glued back together again. There are 4 screws for the unit + the lower 2 that hold this piece in place. Meh :(


Left vent tilt forward until it "pops" and you can access the 1st bolt, the right vent push backwards to access the 2nd bolt. Don't reverse this :banghead:


Now we're getting down to the wire! The dash is damn near bare. I left the cables hooked up to the hvac unit after something broke off the back of it (damn brittle plastic!).


What do we have here? Factory dash speakers? Why yes! And guess what? Don't forget to unplug these too! The drivers side vent needs to come out (2 screws at the bottom and one on top). Once you do this you can access the speaker.


I herp derped with trying to pull the dash out until i got frustrated and at the same time realized that the "reverse screws' weren't actually screws, holding in the center vent section on the HVAC unit. Take a flat head screwdriver, twist, and pull the piece out, or else you'll never get the dash out :laugh: :facepalm:


Victory is almost mine!


And from here, the dash should just pull right out. Also, unclip all the stupid wires going through the dash and pull them to the drivers side. There is ONE WIRE I HAD TO CUT! Maybe others have seen this? Since the wires go through an opening made of plastic inside of the dash that is riveted in place, I had to cut the ground wire for the antenna :(. The only other way to get it out w/o cutting it is if you remove the headliner and pull the wire out of the stupid plastic tabs underneath the dash that are inaccessible unless you remove the HVAC unit. I opted for cutting instead of jumping off a bridge. I'll use a male/female insulated spade connector when it all goes back together again.

The pedal swap, I did not take many pictures of. For one, remove all the wiring shizz that goes to the pedal cluster, unclip the servo for cruise control and remove the 13mm bolt that holds that bracket in place (theres a 13mm on the back side of that, wrench + socket time).


Fun fact: Auto vs manual throttle cable bushing! Also, auto has a counterweight on the accel pedal that I promptly swapped over. The bushing is hard plastic with a 723 part number instead of 721! Crazy, eh? (IIRC, 321 723 5....31?). I kept the auto one because it looks like it won't disintegrate like the ****ty soft rubber ones. Also, the throttle cable has this annoying clip that holds it in place. Unclip with a flathead screwdriver and it comes right out. As annoying as it is, it's WAY freaking easier to get the cable in and out compared to a regular manual throttle cable that has the mushroom head.


Manual cluster all ready to get swapped over! Yay :)


The infamous ABS unit. It's super easy to remove- undo all wiring and the ground wire held in by a 10mm bolt and pull that sucker out. :screwy:


20 minutes later and a quart of brake fluid all over my hands:


I hate you engine bay. I took this because the information that I read about online was wrong. 100% wrong. But I should have known better since I've done an ABS to Manual Booster swap on my corrado, but I felt like I should give the interwebs the benefit of the doubt for once. What a mistake :(


Manual bracket up top, auto one on the bottom. There should be, in theory, 2 more brackets in the world. Auto w/manual booster and Manual w/manual booster (what I have in my C :D )


Everything back together again!


Do note that the auto pedal cluster CAN be removed without dropping the steering column, but the manual will not fit w/o dropping the steering column. As a result of trying to defy all odds, I broke the goddamn plastic divider for the fusebox facing the drivers side door. :banghead: :mad: It's still in place, but I hate it when I break stuff like that. But, at least its in. I drove the car 3 feet more into the shop and called it a night.

Total work time today: 5 hours.

I'm beat.

-AJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On a roll-ish today with the car. I managed to get the heater core unit back into the car after a good 15 minutes worth of struggling. Then, a stupid piece of plastic broke that holds the clip for the heater cable :banghead: - it's a good thing I work at a vw shop so I have a replacement unit on order for tomorrow. I also took the time to try out some new seals and cover the factory foam to prevent it from deteriorating any more. Plus, I figured I should cover it with HVAC tape instead of tearing it all off and trying to layer it. Why? Because I didn't want to deal with getting the correct spacing on all of the edges correct. Plus, the factory foam stuff was in pretty decent condition for what it's worth. Let's see how long it lasts. I managed to get some pretty tight seals going which made me happy.

This is what i started off with today:


Old and crusty. Not sure if was even making much of a seal anymore...


Inside of the box- condition wasn't too bad tbh.


This stuff pretty much disintegrated when I touched it.


All cleaned up with some carb cleaner and some elbow grease.


Spray glue time!


The upper feed to the dash, all nice and cleaned:


You can imagine where this is going


The box is split. Piece of cake btw- just 2 stupid clips and pop that sucker open!


A top shot of how the vents work:


First new seal installed. Fit nice and snug.


What I started with:


What i ended up wtih:


What I started with:


Again, what I ended up with:


Put back into the box and tested for clearance. Everything good so far:


Everything put back together again. I'm hoping the HVAC tape will do something with temperature?


The first seal I did gave me issues. Tested against the box and there's a huge gap facing the drivers side. Took a closer look at it to find out that it's warped. :( Will have to double up seals to make it all work properly and not leak any air. This came as a bit of a bummer but it isn't anything that's too difficult to fix. I need this box to be air tight so all my shizz works properly!


Tested this out, and it seemed to work. I may actually take off all of the round style foam because it's having a hard time sticking into place. I do like it more than the square style stuff because this is a nice heavy duty foam that's designed for use and abuse along with radical temperatures, and is also water resistant compared to most other foam products out there. We'll see....


This pretty much ruined my evening...

:mad: :banghead: :facepalm:

But this was OK because it was all ready to be installed:


I forgot to take a picture of the inside of the car with the unit and foot dwell air console distributor pipe thingy. I'll get that tomorrow when I'm back at the shop again.

I'm still throwing around the idea of an aftermarket stereosystem (specifically the one from my corrado) but the Heidelberg system is too nice and complete to throw away. I'll consider what I'll do once I get the dash back together again and test out the stereo system. If I do decide to change things up, I already bought what I need to be prepared:


$4 off e-bay :laugh:

Another tiring day. Time for a :beer:

-AJ
 

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subscribed!

I had to do Heatercore junk last summer on my wagon. while you got all that open i'd suggest doing a deep cleaning on all the vent plastics after the core housing. I ended up going through and scrubbing all of the insides and soaking the tubes overnight. Was pretty damn nice having dust/crap free air after it was all done. Can't wait to see more.

:thumbup::thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Today was a mix of emotions. Things went well and things went sheittely, but that's life, eh? For one, the stereo adapter I got is wrong- I need a 1004. For 2, Either I'm going crazy, but I only have a black connector and a long red one for "aux" speakers. 3. VW's and plastic and me just do not mix :( 4. Drivers side ducting is a freakin bitch to install. I also ended up changing out the seals that I made with something else. So, the stuff I bought was kind of a waste... I hope I can return some of it even though it was only a few dollars, but every dollar counts with me and this project.

The good news, however, is that most of the dash is done at this point, so I can jump for joy on that one, I guess? I ended up not taking as many pictures this time and there are a few points that I'm going to forget about mentioning, but now that's im on that subject, for one don't bolt the dash down until you have all the crap underneath in place (specifically the center distribution box for the center and side vents. 2. Make sure to plug in the speaker wires into the dash before putting the vents in place. 3. In order to get the drivers side ducting piece in place you need to make sure that No. 1 is still true. 4. Everything that is made out of plastic WILL break. 5. HVAC control unit is still available new (and is a OEM part too!) and it's around $200 :banghead: 6. The defroster cable can be easily installed incorrectly, but can we turned around with the dash and everything bolted down in place, and will still work, but will have a lot of resistance :banghead:


The new sealing setup because the mating surfaces were different than expected. Home depot for the win!


The dash in place! And this is where all hell broke loose and I had to unbolt the dash about 3 times. :mad:


Looking pretty good, this was a good hour + later after conecting 3 things prior that required me to pull the dash 3 times.


So close to salvation! Or is that... salivation? *badam pishh*


And the other side with the glove box in place that came out one last time after I figured out that the stupid defroster cable was wrapped around the wrong way :banghead:


Thank goodness today is over. I just need to clean off the cluster I'm installing and do some re-pinning (not necessary actually, but maybe I'll get around to it), and the center console can go back into place at this point. Again, eventful day.

:vampire:

-AJ
 

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Sup AJ.
Hurry up and finish this thing already! Youve had it for what, 2 weeks now and its not done? :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sup AJ.
Hurry up and finish this thing already! Youve had it for what, 2 weeks now and its not done? :laugh:
Working on it SLOWLY. I got a replacement shifter on oder so I can do the short shift mod to it... and rebuilt it with all new bushings. Woot!

-AJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: CAD/EUR under dash trays (in grey) on their way form Canada. AAZ stock airbox on it's way from LA, 02A shift box + cables on their way from the east coast. Parts are piling up at the shop, just waiting for these tidbits to come in before I move on to Stage 2: Engine removal.

I'm also eying RSK coilovers, but they're $320. Discontinued KW springs... $50 shipped (1.6" drop front to rear). The suspension, as it sits, is in excellent condition. Torn between the two at the moment... just because I'm on a budget :(

-AJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
From what i've read, all of the other cheap coilovers on e-bay are just clones from FK but are built at FK but are re-branded for a cheaper price. So, you buy one setup, it's the same as any other.

In other news, I finally got around to digging THIS out of storage. I never thought I would have a chance to use this (again). Now it has found its rightful home BACK into a B3 wagon (soon to be diesel) :D
Thankfully the wagon does not have any MFA stuffs, so I don't have to worry about loosing display functionality with swapping clusters out :)


And then I was very much rewarded yesterday with this package arriving at work, that I proceeded to tear apart and smile with joy:


And a couple of days prior to that, this lovely piece came in:


The shifter will get the short-shifter modification. I was about to install new bushings but the thing is cherry beyond belief! So now I have a set of bushings to use on my corrado since that shifter is pretty much wasted, haha. :facepalm:

Aside from that, i haven't gotten around to doing much of anything else on the Passat, but starting next week I should be back in there installing things and getting ready (prepping) to drop the engine finally.
I have a (turbo) vr motor that I'm building right now too... I always told myself I wouldn't build 2 projects at the same time :eek: :(

-AJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So 2 nights ago nothing went right. 1. I broke my angle grinder lock (shattered the internals, so much for a $100 grinder), but I patched the beeotsch up and it works again and am praying it won't blow up in my face. 2. The extension plate I welded warped like a mofo- not sure how that happened as I tack welded everything in place. But that's just my damn luck. 3. I spent 3x the amount of time that I thought it was going to take on this project. A personal record in being a ****ty fabricator at times. 4. Don't believe the lies that people tell you about what bushings you do and do not need for your shifter. There was only ONE piece I needed, really, and that's the rubber surround for the left/right selector, which you don't really need. So I was pretty annoyed that I wasted a good chunk of change on something that I didn't actually need to buy, but what the **** ever, the shifter is as tight as a cat. The only thing that DID go well was powder-coating, but that's something I'm a pro at :cool:

I left that evening on a pretty rough note, and haven't touched anything in the garage yet, but i'll get around to doing more work tomorrow. On to the pictures, I guess?

Tore into my rusty looking $60 vortex score of a shifter box. It felt really good out of the box... just about 100x better than what's in my corrado currently. But my corrado shifter also has damn near 400,000 miles on it.


5 minutes later, it was all apart, ready to be worked on


This is one of the parts that will be modified.


In position, ready for the angle grinder


A couple of minutes later, and this is what I am left with. 1 1/8th of a piece to be welded in. the 1/8th is to compensate for the thickness of metal that was lost during cutting :)


Tacked in place. I may have had my settings off at the time which may explain why my tack welds didn't prevent warping, but it's something I didn't think of at the time


The filler plate tacked in place


Make that, filler plate tacked in place on the front AND the back


Boobies!


Make that a double!


Now here is the weird thing- welded both front and back and the FFFUUUCCCKKKINNNNG thing was bent upwards :confused::mad::thumbdown::facepalm::banghead:
I'm thinking it will be fine at this point as I put the whole thing back together again and it seems fine.

And remember how I said I broke my angle grinder? Yeah... I was NOT pleased about that at all


Skipped a step here, but this is the extension piece I welded in. It's actually an air cooled 14mm press in stud. It's grade 10 steel so I figured that would be perfect, and it isn't mixed in with garbage :)


Some more steps missing, but here's the rod pretty much done


What's going into the oven?


I love the look before they get baked


OEM VW partsville. Again, I didn't need anything, really, except for ONE freakin piece. But, that's OK. I kept all the "used" parts and they'll be going into my corrado instead.


Fresh out of the oven. I love long bakes. Impervious to everything and anything


Just a closeup.


So, some other stuff happened afterwards and I went into ragequit mode, so no more pictures. I'm still annoyed that the plate warped so much during welding as I've never had that happen to me before like that. But, I guess, Live and learn. I think everything will be fine. I'll know for sure once I get around to installing everything. If it's off, i'm going to have a nightmare of a time fixing it as getting the powercoating off is a serious PITA, and I really don't want to have to take it all apart agian.

*sigh*

I hate cars, lol

-AJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Shifter box is powdercoated, lubed, cables lubed, and is ready to install. Not much of an update as of recent because Grad School is kicking my ass and my work over at www.lockitron.com is also kicking my ass. Behind by about 2 weeks now. Hopefully will catch up next week with starting to tear down the 16v motor for prepping for the diesel swap. I wish we had 36 hour days :banghead:

-AJ
 

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Just last year I completed the manual swap in my 91 calypso wagon! You're right, the write-ups for dealing with the ABS unit are garbage. I may have missed it, but if you haven't addressed the lines yet, I was able to coerce mine into working with the non-ABS master.

Also, if you haven't made it to the wiring part (neutral safety switch, reverse switch) this is what I followed and it was very useful.

Good stuff!

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I (violently) coerced my lines in my Corrado after switching from the ABS unit to Manual booster also. It works... for the most part :laugh: .
And that link you provided is EXACTLY the same link I have bookmarked :) :thumbup:

And, just like others, I have the issue of my brake switch not being long enough.

Here's a secret that I'm sure that no one knows about..... THERE ARE 2 DIFFERENT LENGTH BRAKE SWITCHES AND THEY BOTH USE THE SAME EXACT GODDAMN PART NUMBER :mad: :banghead:

The 191 945 515

I can buy them new and they are all shorties... but since I work at a VW shop, I dug through some boxes and found a "long style" switch so my ass has been saved. I should post pictures of the difference in length just for others to revel in the mystery of VW engineering. :facepalm:

-AJ
 

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Fortunately I didn't run into the brake switch issue (16v car, not sure if that would have anything to do with it.) Are you leaving all of the associated auto tranny/abs wiring intact? If you pull out you'll never have to buy spare wire again, there's MILES of it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Fortunately I didn't run into the brake switch issue (16v car, not sure if that would have anything to do with it.) Are you leaving all of the associated auto tranny/abs wiring intact? If you pull out you'll never have to buy spare wire again, there's MILES of it!
Yeah, its weird. There are 2 different length switches, but both use the same part number. It's quite odd... thankfully I had a used "long" style one at my work. This car is keeping ABS- my Corrado I deleted the ABS unit in. I'm trying to keep the b3 wagon as original as possible as far as wiring/components are concerned. The brakes seem to be working fine (ABS light is on though... boo) and I prefer the feel of ABS brakes versus booster brakes- it's more responsive, less squishy, and it works even without the abs control module- just feed it power and ground and delete everything else :)

I got my diesel cluster installed! Yay! And fired the car up (barely ran!) and gave the battery a bit of a charge. Got one of the euro trays installed. Now waiting to get in there and tear the motor out this weekend! Finally making some progress.

-AJ
 
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