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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY

I changed the rear brakes on my Passat this morning. The car had 38,875 miles on it. From the time I went out into the garage and the time I put the last tool away was less than two hours. This included taking pictures, etc.
Items needed include:
Jack, jack stands and chocks
15mm wrench
13mmsocket
Big "C" clamp or disc brake piston spreader
Battery charger
Computer with VAG-Com and cable
Wrench to remove lug nuts, 17mm socket
Torque wrench
**You must connect and use a battery charger to perform this procedure, otherwise you will get error faults.**


The first thing was to put the rear car up in the air and remove the rear wheels. I jacked the car up using the rear jack point, and placed a jack stand under the rear suspension arm. I did that for both sides.




Remove the wheels and there you have the brakes. But, you first have to open the calipers. Follow the directions from the Ross-Tech site.


Here
Make sure you connect a battery charger before you start the caliper opening sequence.



You will see these screens.




You will hear the rear caliper motors working. It takes a little while for them to completely open. You will see the numbers changing in the measuring blocks.

Once the motors have stopped, you are ready to remove the calipers. Using a 13mm socket and 15mm wrench, remove the caliper retaining bolts in the usual fashion.



Set the caliper aside for a minute.



Remove the old pads. The ones on the back will seem like they are stuck to the rotor. They're not, just push the top of them and they will come right out. My pads were pretty worn!



Press the piston back into the caliper. This is very easily done. There is very little resistance, as long as the pressure is straight in. DO NOT ROTATE! I had to use a large clamp, a spreader would have done the job better. Make sure you open your brake fluid reservoir and put a rag around it to catch any excess fluid (mine didn't spill any).



Place the pads into the carrier. The tabs on the pads slide right into the holder.



Place the caliper back onto the carrier, reattaching the caliper retaining bolts in the usual fashion.



Using Vag-Com again, following the directions for closing and testing the rear brake calipers.




The calipers will go through the cycles.
And that's it! Disconnect the VAG-Com and the battery charger, put your wheels back on, torque the lugs to spec, and bed the brakes to the manufacturers recommendations.
It was no harder (probably easier) than doing the fronts.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3785800
To change the rotors, merely remove the carriers and rotors and I showed in the Front Brake R&R.

**Use a battery charger!**


Modified by dhambrick at 6:01 PM 6-2-2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (sinned)

Quote, originally posted by sinned »
why do you need to hook up the battery charger while you use the vag-com?

To keep the correct voltage level for the control module to work properly.


Modified by dhambrick at 5:57 PM 6-2-2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (GLSVR6PWR)

Quote, originally posted by GLSVR6PWR »
Great job. Both of your brake DIY's shoudl be tossed in the FAQ.
Link to ross-tech wiki didn't work for me, but found the procedure here:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...=3795

Modified by GLSVR6PWR at 3:03 PM 5-31-2008

Thanks, I fixed the link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (kuharious)

Quote, originally posted by kuharious »
oh boy, i tried this today and i can not clear an error code i got. i did not have a batery voltage charger hooked up. we were getting a code 01087 which got cleared away then got 02426. now we are stuck, and the calipers will not close open or anything. i am screwed i think.

Try the VAG-Com forum, you will need to post a complete scan there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (rbradleymedmd)

Quote, originally posted by rbradleymedmd »
dhambrick...awesome DIY man!!! I will be using both of your DIY write-ups w/in a month or so and replacing all four rotors and pads. Quick question for you...any recommendations on a battery charger? Would one of these cheap $20 ebay ones work? Obviously we don't need it to super charge the batter ASAP, just keep the voltage constant...seems like any of these should be able to do that...right? Thanks again!

Thanks for the kind words!
I would not count on a "Trickle" type charger to keep the battery up to the recommended voltage (I think it's like 13.5v).
That said, you can get a decent battery charger for <$40 at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, or somewhere like that. Or borrow one from your neighbor!

FWIW, my charger was pretty warm after the procedure.
Quote, originally posted by ic3man »
I do not have the vagcom software or cable. Would it be crazy to leave the key in the ignition so the automatic emergency brake does not engage?

Yes, it would be crazy to try, and probably cost you the price of a rear caliper. You cannot change the rear pads without the VAG-Com or the dealer computer.
If you try to change the pads without a battery charger, you will get faults codes, (see the above posts and check the VAG-Com forum).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (rbradleymedmd)

I upgraded, I got the Hawk EPS pads from Tire Rack, (see the top photo).
I have the Hawk EPS front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (rbradleymedmd)

Quote, originally posted by rbradleymedmd »
That's right...my bad. How's the feel with all four pads upgraded?

Actually pretty good. Smooth step in, but really bite if pressed hard. I do have much more pedal now with the rears swapped out. I was suprised how thin they were!
Quote, originally posted by Bill212 »

Thanks for the excellent DIY!! bookmarked both for reference.
Regarding the rear rotors, did you check their thickness? Have seen posts saying the dealers recommending changing the rotors when changing the pads.
All your diys are very informative http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Thanks!
I checked the thickness, and with the SM at my dealership. They said they were good to go. It was funny, they said that most of their rotor replacements are due to metal on metal from the pads due to excessive pad wear, rather than rotor degradation.
So, check your rear pads when you rotate your tires every 5k miles!


Modified by dhambrick at 5:18 PM 3-10-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (kuharious)

Quote, originally posted by kuharious »
Well I just got it fixed last night with the help of a friend and your DIY. Thanks again. Good work.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Re: (skaranam)

Quote, originally posted by skaranam »
Mine is 2003 Passat. Do I need VAG-Com? I guess this is required only with electronic parking brake. Mine is just regular parking brake.

No, only the B6 with the EPB need the VAG-Com.
I would check in the B5-B5.5 forum for specifics on your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (steelerfan)

Quote, originally posted by steelerfan »
Just wanted to add that you will need a triple square socket to replace the rear rotors. Also, when I did mine I was able to get the EPB open to change the pads and closed after I was done. But I couldn't get the EPB to cycle. Called Ross-Tech and was told that they have run across this before. Just start the car and use the dash button to open. not a big deal, but it might help someone from wasting time like I did trying to cycle the emergency brake.

The rotor is held on with a Torx 30 bolt. (I referenced the rotor removal as done on the fronts, here http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3785800)
Great info on the rear open and close issue!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (steelerfan)

Cool, I need to pull my wheels and check that out! What size triple square?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Re: (badboyripper)

Quote, originally posted by badboyripper »
Nice write up. I think that I'll have to get a Vag-Com very soon. My battery is in the engine bay. Who else has there's in the trunk?

Thanks! All VR6 batteries are in the trunk.
estrov said:
Where do you get a 12 point 14mm drive to remove the rear caliper carrier? Anyone find this in a local store? Pep Boys only gets up to 12mm. I started the break job and can't finish without the bit.[/QU
I bought mine at Northern Tool. You also might want to check at Sears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (bxw)

Quote, originally posted by bxw »
I don't have a vag com for my 2006 Passat 2.0T.
snip
So... knowing that the parking break isn't automatically pressed againt the rotor (after the engine is off), do I still need the vag com to open the caliper before I go about changing the rear breaks???

Yes.
You might be able to get the old brakes pads out because they have worn down enough to clear the rotor, but he new pads are much thicker, and VAGCom (VCDS) is needed to have the pistons fully retract into the caliper so the new ones will fit.
VAGCom also reseats and resets the caliper based on the new pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (SMOOTH)

Quote, originally posted by SMOOTH »
Ok guys I have made a major mistake when replacing my rear pads. I used vagcom to move the motors. I had both calipers off the car. I used a C Clamp to push in one side and reinstalled everything. My Major Flaw was that I tried to reinstall the rim/tire on one side before even finishing the other side. I stepped on the brake before the other caliper was reassembled. Now the piston has pushed all the way out and won't go back in. What have I done? How can I fix this problem?

Use VAGCom to re-cycle the pistons back out and back in. That should reset the calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (bxw)

Quote, originally posted by bxw »
I noticed that you didn't have a pair of chuck to block the front wheels from rolling. Isn't this dangerous?

Actually both front tires are chocked. The chocks are on the front side of the tires, in the direction the weight of the car is sloped towards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (SMOOTH)

Yep, from scratch.
Bolt the caliper back on with one old pad or something so that it won't come all the way put. You should be fine. Even with the piston out, with one old pad (or none), it should go back over the rotor.
I wouldn't cycle the motors with the caliper off the car. Not sure if anything would happen, but...
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (SMOOTH)

I would suggest posting this on the VAGCom forum. Also, there is a diagnostic portion of the Rear R&R VAGCom procedure.
Have you tried clearing the code and running through the entire sequence (including the test portion) again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Re: (avgwarhawk)

Thanks to everybody for the notes. Sorry if I missed the opportunity to help out on a brake job, I've been traveling a lot.
Taking the fluid out of the caliper does allow the piston to make back some, simple displacement. However, the VAGCom activates the motors that work the parking brake and retracting the pistons. I am not saying it won't work, I am saying there have been a lot more people posting that it doesn't work that have successfully done it.
Also, following the procedures in the DIY also has VAGCom reset the entire elctric motors sytem to compensate for the thickness of the new pads and/or rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Re: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY (briankstan)

Thanks for the kind words guys. Have a great Thanksgiving weekend.
C'mon Cowboys!
 
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