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First of all this is a great thread with lots of ideas and answers... However I am reading this after changing my back pads (06 Passat 2.0t). I took everything off and used the method which supplies 12V to caliper motor to bring the piston in, and then simple C-Clamp action to push it in afterwards. I thought I had beat the system, as everything fit back on and appeared good- until I started the car and got the parking break fault light on dash + flashing light on button and beeping while car is in drive.

So, after reading this thread in it's entirety (and many others) I have a pretty good handle on what could have happened and what I need to do to fix it. After work today I'm going to start small and try the manual reset (unplug battery, brake for 35 seconds, push button for 10)... followed by taking everything apart again (this time with the battery disconnected) and push back in the caliper pistons, put it back together and follow the exact methods Ive seen on here- that have worked. I do have a couple questions though if anyone can chime in:

-It seems like my driver side parking break does engage and disengage and that the problem is on the passenger side... thoughts? could it be as simple as not plugging the electronic cable back in deep enough on that side?

-Would hooking up a vag com now- after the fact- be able to solve things? One of my friends has one I could get to eventually...

-If all else fails whats the next step? replace the caliper? I f**king hope not. What other alternatives are there?- motor replacement, bleed and replace break fluid system? manually set the pistons to a decent spot for driving in the meantime??? im just grasping at straws on this one...

Any help would be appreciated. Oh- also should note that it sounded like my rear pads were slightly scraping the rotors last night- i drove it around the block with the light beeping just to see where I was at.. im assuming this is from the calipers not being calibrated/reset, and that that will work itself out along with the parking break fault message.
 

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VAG COM Results

Ok so I borrowed my friend's VAG COM and pulled up the following codes:

Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.CLB
Control Module Part Number: 3C0 907 801 B HW: 3C0 907 801 B
Component and/or Version: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
Software Coding: 0000013
Work Shop Code: WSC 131071 1023 2097151
VCID: 21426446F8FD4E4A81-8074
4 Faults Found:

02433 - Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor (V283)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11111100
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 159
Mileage: 160800 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.17
Time: 18:31:48

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.15 V
Count: 87

02431 - Right Parking Brake Motor (V283) Resistance to Movement
014 - Defective - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00111110
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 199
Mileage: 160800 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.17
Time: 16:32:42

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.25 V
Count: 17

02429 - Right Parking Brake Motor (V283) Clamping Force Not Reached
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110010
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 199
Mileage: 160800 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.17
Time: 16:32:22

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 7.66 V
Count: 205

02427 - Brake Disk Rear Right; Not Reached
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110000
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 199
Mileage: 160800 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.17
Time: 16:32:00

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 12.32 V
Count: 13


I cleared those and then this showed up:

Tuesday,20,September,2016,23:08:24:13476
VCDS Version: Release 16.8.1 Running on Windows 7 x64
www.Ross-Tech.com

Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.CLB
Control Module Part Number: 3C0 907 801 B HW: 3C0 907 801 B
Component and/or Version: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
Software Coding: 0000013
Work Shop Code: WSC 131071 1023 2097151
VCID: 21426446F8FD4E4A81-8074
Fault Codes have been Erased

1 Fault Found:
02433 - Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor (V283)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11111100
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 159
Mileage: 160800 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.17
Time: 18:31:48

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.15 V
Count: 87


Also, when I tried running the open/close EPB functions nothing happened... the amps went up and down a bit and that was it. Same for the function test. I did not have a battery charger hooked up because I do not have one. Would attaching one effect the results here or the codes I got? I obviously know its needed but this is all I could do tonight. Any input here? Please!!
 

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Sounds like your battery may have gotten too low, which basically nukes the caliper motors from what I hear...did you ever find a fix? Most cases the only fix is new calipers 😞

I had a rather scary situation myself when I did this job this weekend...had a battery charger hooked up (12V 6amp setting).

I finish the job and close the calipers, start putting the car back together and I hear the calipers lock down...I go back in the car and the motors have errors (no basic settings or something like that), I can't open them, close them, cycle them, there's no response whatsoever. Ebrake button does nothing. I figure I am SOL...

Finish putting the car back together, start the car, let it run for a minute and try the ebrake - it works. I cycle the calipers just to be sure but lo and behold everything is fine.

I wonder if my battery got too low? Even with the charger on I saw each action with the calipers drained the battery by about 20%...did I need a more powerful battery charger? What did you all use?
 

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Sounds like your battery may have gotten too low, which basically nukes the caliper motors from what I hear...did you ever find a fix? Most cases the only fix is new calipers 😞

I had a rather scary situation myself when I did this job this weekend...had a battery charger hooked up (12V 6amp setting).

I finish the job and close the calipers, start putting the car back together and I hear the calipers lock down...I go back in the car and the motors have errors (no basic settings or something like that), I can't open them, close them, cycle them, there's no response whatsoever. Ebrake button does nothing. I figure I am SOL...

Finish putting the car back together, start the car, let it run for a minute and try the ebrake - it works. I cycle the calipers just to be sure but lo and behold everything is fine.

I wonder if my battery got too low? Even with the charger on I saw each action with the calipers drained the battery by about 20%...did I need a more powerful battery charger? What did you all use?
I had exactly the same experience when I did mine. In my case, the charger didn't put out enough amps to keep the battery charged for the time it took to do the job. Luckily the all the errors went away after starting the car. :whew:

Ivan MacKenzie.
 

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I had exactly the same experience when I did mine. In my case, the charger didn't put out enough amps to keep the battery charged for the time it took to do the job. Luckily the all the errors went away after starting the car. :whew:

Ivan MacKenzie.
Out of curiosity, how many amps was your charger? I cheaped out and got the 6amp model - there was a 10A version too that was pricier but I wonder if it would've kept the battery charged sufficiently...

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

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I could be wrong but thought that after you open EB motors to service position you can close module, close VCDS and turn the car off while you are doing the brake job.

When finished, power up car, run VCDS and open module to close your EB motors
 

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Out of curiosity, how many amps was your charger? I cheaped out and got the 6amp model - there was a 10A version too that was pricier but I wonder if it would've kept the battery charged sufficiently...

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
The charger I used was 3A. That, combined with the 5 year old factory battery was a bad combo.

Ivan MacKenzie.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
 

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Rebuilt Rear Passenger, now weird binding/grinding noise from diff. *RESOLVED*

Hey there, as the title states I rebuilt the passenger caliper on the rear end of my 2006 Passat 3.6 4Motion. Everything seems to have gone to plan.

One thing tho, When I had the car up on stands I put it in drive to ensure my brakes worked (first time removing and reinstalling a caliper, so wanted to be sure I had brakes)

Any ways when I did that I didn't have the wheels on the car . . . the only thing I see being wrong with me doing that is I should have put some lug bolts in to hold the rotors as oppose to relying on the rotors set screw. Anyways that didn't exactly turn out as planned, because I'd apply pressure to the brakes and they wouldn't stop like they're supposed to. Id feel the ABS kick in so I had to pop it into Neutral and than shut down the car to put it in park.

But as I said at the beginning, everything seems to have gone to plan.

TEST DRIVE: Driving it was fine, brakes work as they should. BUT (here's where the whole Binding and Grinding comes in) it felt like there was a point in each rotation that made a quick grinding noise.

1st thought: Dust shield - no removed the wheel and tire and checked, nothing.
2nd thought: Maybe a "burr" on the brake pad - nope, no scoring or gouging that I can see.

NOW WHAT?

So I try spinning the rotor assembly, and it turns about half a revolution than !"*TING*"!

I thought the rear must have to be raised as well, nope tried that. And that (drivers) wheel spins fine but the passenger one still stops.

So I thought, (4motion, maybe all 4's need to be up) ......nope

Now I'm thinking "ok, something else needs to be done". So I put two lug bolts in to secure the rotor and than started the car and put it in drive.

3 out of 4 wheels spin, (rear pass wont) give it a little gas (~50km/h) and than i could hear a single clunk for each revolution it made.

While the car was in drive I got out and checked the back wheel while all the others were spinning, I manually tried turning it backwards and it'd go back but stop, and slowly turn forward until whatevers stopping it, stopped it again.

Tried it in revers and same thing.



Well who wants to hear how dumb I am? :screwy:

I have 15mm spacers in the rear and when I put the extended lug bolts in to hold the rotor in place, that's what held the wheel from spinning. Problem 1 solved.

#2 when rebuilding the caliper the hard line was seized to the fitting, so when I loosened the fitting I snapped the line. When rebuilding that line I made it slightly to big and it rubbed against my wheel. So I pushed that in a little further and took it for a drive and we are a GO! :p

looks like I need to have that wheel straightened but eh, a lot better than what I thought. I thought I was majorly screwed there.

Watch after all this the caliper begins leaking ( I know almost inevitable but still ) I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Until then :popcorn:

and thank you jdaigle for your input, definitely going to remember that!
 

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When I had the car up on stands I put it in drive to ensure my brakes worked (first time removing and reinstalling a caliper, so wanted to be sure I had brakes)
:eek:

In that situation the rotor could have been wobbling all over the place since it didn't have anything holding it in place once the set screw slipped. I'd take it all apart and either get the rotor balanced or just replace it. And hopefully that does it!
 

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Rebuilding rear caliper with EPB

Hey! could you guys post how you rebuilt the rear caliper?
my idiot friend tried to change the rear brake on his 2011 Q5 and ended up popping the piston out of the caliper.
He asked me to see if i can fix it but never really had too much experience with Audi or vw.
Did you simply assemble/line up the piston to the caliper to the car with 1 old brake pad and use vag come to retract the piston?
If you can provide detail steps how to replace rear caliper with epb I Greatly apreciate it!
 

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Hey there, as the title states I rebuilt the passenger caliper on the rear end of my 2006 Passat 3.6 4Motion. Everything seems to have gone to plan.

One thing tho, When I had the car up on stands I put it in drive to ensure my brakes worked (first time removing and reinstalling a caliper, so wanted to be sure I had brakes)

Any ways when I did that I didn't have the wheels on the car . . . the only thing I see being wrong with me doing that is I should have put some lug bolts in to hold the rotors as oppose to relying on the rotors set screw. Anyways that didn't exactly turn out as planned, because I'd apply pressure to the brakes and they wouldn't stop like they're supposed to. Id feel the ABS kick in so I had to pop it into Neutral and than shut down the car to put it in park.

But as I said at the beginning, everything seems to have gone to plan.

TEST DRIVE: Driving it was fine, brakes work as they should. BUT (here's where the whole Binding and Grinding comes in) it felt like there was a point in each rotation that made a quick grinding noise.

1st thought: Dust shield - no removed the wheel and tire and checked, nothing.
2nd thought: Maybe a "burr" on the brake pad - nope, no scoring or gouging that I can see.

NOW WHAT?

So I try spinning the rotor assembly, and it turns about half a revolution than !"*TING*"!

I thought the rear must have to be raised as well, nope tried that. And that (drivers) wheel spins fine but the passenger one still stops.

So I thought, (4motion, maybe all 4's need to be up) ......nope

Now I'm thinking "ok, something else needs to be done". So I put two lug bolts in to secure the rotor and than started the car and put it in drive.

3 out of 4 wheels spin, (rear pass wont) give it a little gas (~50km/h) and than i could hear a single clunk for each revolution it made.

While the car was in drive I got out and checked the back wheel while all the others were spinning, I manually tried turning it backwards and it'd go back but stop, and slowly turn forward until whatevers stopping it, stopped it again.

Tried it in revers and same thing.



Well who wants to hear how dumb I am?


I have 15mm spacers in the rear and when I put the extended lug bolts in to hold the rotor in place, that's what held the wheel from spinning. Problem 1 solved.

#2 when rebuilding the caliper the hard line was seized to the fitting, so when I loosened the fitting I snapped the line. When rebuilding that line I made it slightly to big and it rubbed against my wheel. So I pushed that in a little further and took it for a drive and we are a GO!


looks like I need to have that wheel straightened but eh, a lot better than what I thought. I thought I was majorly screwed there.

Watch after all this the caliper begins leaking ( I know almost inevitable but still ) I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Until then


and thank you jdaigle for your input, definitely going to remember that!

Hey i was wondering if you can tell me the details of rebuildibg the rear caliper.
My idiot friend tried to do rear brake job on his q5 with epb and popped the piston out of the caliper. He does have a device similar to vagcom where he can open and close the rear caliper epb.
Thanks in advance!
 

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Hey i was wondering if you can tell me the details of rebuildibg the rear caliper.
My idiot friend tried to do rear brake job on his q5 with epb and popped the piston out of the caliper. He does have a device similar to vagcom where he can open and close the rear caliper epb.
Thanks in advance!
Ok so you've already got the piston removed from the caliper?

At this point I headed to youtube and watched a video about a guy rebuilding a rear brake caliper from a BMW that he brought to local races. ( I didn't use a block of wood to stop the piston from flying out, plus I used much much higher air pressure than required ) and that piston FLEW across the room lol

I did pretty much exactly what the guy in the video did, and didn't have any trouble. . . .

as for rebuilding while dealing with the EPB aspect you need to do a bit more but I don't think you need VAGCOM, as I didn't.

So you have your caliper, piston, 4 seals ( the cylinder wall fat one, the small o-ring that seals at the back of the caliper (with the EPB motor off), accordion seal and another BIG o-ring sealing the EPB motor to the caliper and finally 1 little dammit clip "circlip".

1st (ill state the obvious, keep everything clean.)
2 watch the https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRUOChic7bc youtube video i talked about above

**3** the video doesn't deal with the EPB so here you will need to remove that circlip at the back once the EPB motor is off, (if you stripped those EPB motor bolts they are m6x12)

4 after the clip is removed you can pull out the contraption that was behind the piston, you'll see there's a nut and bolt type of contraption, the nut looks almost like the letter "H" pay attention to how you took it out, as it will fit back in the cylinder either way (I don't think this part really matters BUT i just put it back in the way it came out anyways) take that "H" nut and thread it all the way down to the bottom of the screw but don't tighten it. (this is how you can ensure the pads will be spread out enough to fit back over the rotor)

5 watch youtube video again to see how the accordion seal goes back on, took me a couple tries to get it.

6 are you still keeping everything clean ????

7 go ahead and carefully push the piston back in like in the video

**8** using a c clamp will work BUT you will have that HEX type fitting that's now preventing full insertion of the piston. that hex fitting im talking about is the female end in the caliper, the EPB motor looks to have a HEX bit that fits in there and turns the bolt when the EPB button is pressed

9 so grab a big nut (and no not your buddy) but one that's going to fit over and around that HEX type fitting and than use the c clamp to completely push the piston in,

10 put the circlip around that hex fitting

11 put the EPB motor back on

12 put the caliper back on

13 bleed the brake

14 plug everything in

15 turn the car on

16 and press the EPB button

17 when i did this i heard both EPB motors actuate, but the one i worked on (rear passenger) with threaded that "H" shaped nut all the way down. . . . kept running for about 5 more seconds, as it really sounded like did this sequence

engaged (compressed it as much as it did the last time when you used them)
retracted (realized that it didn't get tight as it should the first time)
engaged *again*on it's own* (this time i heard it tighten up) . . .so far so GOOD

so I pressed it again and it retracted but . . .

18 I had the (P) Parking brake fault light on my dash (but it's cause I unplugged the motor to remove the caliper) . . .

19 so i put everything back together and took the car down the road, once stopped I pressed the EPB button and it worked like it normally would and the EPB light immediately cleared.

Hope this helps, keep in mind I have a 2006 VW passat sedan 4motion with 3.6L engine. 310mm rear rotor and the break caliper was TRW.
 

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Nice write up, slight variation

This is a great write up/how-to. Some brief notes from my 2010 Passat with 65K on the original pads and rotors. Even with 65K, there must have been 1/3 pad left. I changed anyway because wife hated the wet brake squeal of factory pads.
1. I used an Ancel brand code reader to retract the electronic parking brake. $55 on Amazon.
2. I used a Powerstop-brand pad and rotor kit from Rock Auto. $86 with shipping to my front door.
3. The caliper bracket/brake pad bracket (M14) is tough to get out with hand tools. Get the car up high enough so you can use a long extension/breaker bar. Physics is your friend.

Even with the tool purchase, I'm out for under $150 and an afternoon. With three VWs in the house, I'll use the code reader again. Even if I don't, I'm still way ahead. Top independent VW shop locally quoted me $400.
 
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