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I freaking :heart::heart::heart: this thread! :beer::thumbup:

...that's all I got, keep up the good work!
 

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Came here to mention that I'm living in PR again and Samurais are some of the most popular cars to modify and cruise around in. They are E V E R Y W H E R E on Sunday afternoon and night, the approved "cruise time". Rotaries are pretty common. usually when you hear a loud Brap Brap it's either a very clean RX-3 or a Samurai!
Really? Huh. I figured you guys had too much salt in the air for either of those cars to still be anything but a pile of rust! I haven't seen an RX3 in many, many years, and it's been quite a while since I've seen a Samurai, too.

:beer:
 

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. After the driver left, I noticed the bullseye. I mentioned it to the seller (not looking for anything) and he then informed me that there was a "small rock chip" in that area in question. Was there actually one initially, was it the same one, did this one occur on the car carrier, who knows. If that's the worst that happened over this whole ordeal, I'm not complaining.
I had a monster chip like that in my old Sidekick that I repaired with an at-home plunger kit with surprisingly decent results. You might give that repair place a try before you go in on a new windshield, unless you're trying to make this thing mint.

Looks like a fun project! I'm pretty sure the 65mph top speed on these things was actually a safety feature though- be careful with it when you put the new engine in!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I had a monster chip like that in my old Sidekick that I repaired with an at-home plunger kit with surprisingly decent results. You might give that repair place a try before you go in on a new windshield, unless you're trying to make this thing mint.
The epoxy repair is $70.

New windshield is $289.

Is it worth 4x the price of the repair for new glass and seal, which is dry rotted to hell? I don't know. I certainly don't ever expect this thing to be mint, just a clean survivor. Open to suggestions.
 

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The epoxy repair is $70.

New windshield is $289.

Is it worth 4x the price of the repair for new glass and seal, which is dry rotted to hell? I don't know. I certainly don't ever expect this thing to be mint, just a clean survivor. Open to suggestions.


I'd replace it just to get the new seal. Those old dry rotted seals let water into the channel and hold it there letting rust start.

Pull the old windshield yourself. Clean up the channel then have the pros come out and install the new one. Considering it's flat glass you could probably install it yourself but for $289 I'd just let them do it.
 

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I'd replace it just to get the new seal. Those old dry rotted seals let water into the channel and hold it there letting rust start.

Pull the old windshield yourself. Clean up the channel then have the pros come out and install the new one. Considering it's flat glass you could probably install it yourself but for $289 I'd just let them do it.
I second this...I know the vacu-seal epoxy fixes are actually quite good, but a whole new glass and NEW SEAL totally worth it :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I'd replace it just to get the new seal. Those old dry rotted seals let water into the channel and hold it there letting rust start.

Pull the old windshield yourself. Clean up the channel then have the pros come out and install the new one. Considering it's flat glass you could probably install it yourself but for $289 I'd just let them do it.
I think you guys are right. A new windshield is the way to go.
 

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I have a friend in Northern VA who is selling the running pullout from his '94 RX-7. It's the engine, turbos, downpipe, trans, EMS, and all peripherals- he'd probably let it go for around $3K; he got some stupid idea to do an LS swap.

Cool project- I'm interested in following it regardless of the engine choice.
 

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Came here to mention that I'm living in PR again and Samurais are some of the most popular cars to modify and cruise around in. They are E V E R Y W H E R E on Sunday afternoon and night, the approved "cruise time". Rotaries are pretty common. usually when you hear a loud Brap Brap it's either a very clean RX-3 or a Samurai!
I was gonna post about it too but I knew some of you guys would beat me to the punch! LOL :D
 

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I'd replace it just to get the new seal. Those old dry rotted seals let water into the channel and hold it there letting rust start.

Pull the old windshield yourself. Clean up the channel then have the pros come out and install the new one. Considering it's flat glass you could probably install it yourself but for $289 I'd just let them do it.
I second this...I know the vacu-seal epoxy fixes are actually quite good, but a whole new glass and NEW SEAL totally worth it :thumbup:
Is the new seal even available, though? To me that'd have to be sourced, bought and inspected (because it's potentially oooooold rubber) before I even thought about a new windshield.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I have a friend in Northern VA who is selling the running pullout from his '94 RX-7. It's the engine, turbos, downpipe, trans, EMS, and all peripherals- he'd probably let it go for around $3K; he got some stupid idea to do an LS swap.

Cool project- I'm interested in following it regardless of the engine choice.
I'm already tits deep into a VW ABA 2.0L swap. I've already purchased everything and began gutting the harness. Plus I don't know anything about RX-7 engines. I want full familiarity with this project.

Is the new seal even available, though? To me that'd have to be sourced, bought and inspected (because it's potentially oooooold rubber) before I even thought about a new windshield.
New seals are available, as are windshields. I'm really impressed with the overall availability of parts for this 34 year old automobile.
 

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Wonderful thread, thanks for sharing. Can you tell me why so much love for the 8v ABA motor? I know by discussion how durable the I5's are, but why not a 16v version that was in earlier GTIs?

Always loved Samurais. A 3 cylinder turbo would be really cool in one I would think (like the 1.5 in the Euro FiST or even a 1.0 out of the Focus/Fiesta here)
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Wonderful thread, thanks for sharing. Can you tell me why so much love for the 8v ABA motor? I know by discussion how durable the I5's are, but why not a 16v version that was in earlier GTIs?

Always loved Samurais. A 3 cylinder turbo would be really cool in one I would think (like the 1.5 in the Euro FiST or even a 1.0 out of the Focus/Fiesta here)
A basic, simple motor, with excellent reliability, that will nearly double the horsepower of the stock Samurai engine (115 hp vs. 60hp) is all I'm really after. I'm not trying to build a race car, just an around town vehicle that can get out of its own way when required.

The inline 5's are not supported by the company that does the VW conversion parts, only 4 cylinder engines produced before the Mk4 era. 16v engines are great and all, but have a quite primitive EFI system, plus there's only one exhaust manifold available for those engines and it doesn't play nice with the longitudinally mounted requirements of the Samurai.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Headliner updates:

I determined that the thin plastic paneling (my Plan B) that Lowes sells was going to be too flimsy to be used as a backer board for the headliner, so I had to make the 1/8" hardboard work somehow. I modified the roof support bar by simply drilling a new hole on each side, which will lower the overall position of the bar, allowing the backer board to pass through. I reinstalled the panels and test fitted the modified roof support bar. All is well. Now I need to pull it out again and glue on the headliner fabric....hopefully tonight, but doubtful.













 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Last night, I messed around with vapor barriers. I removed and cleaned up all the old rope chalking and installed new beads and 2mil "drop cloths" for the new vapor barriers. I got both of these materials from Home Depot for under $10, with PLENTY of leftovers. 2mil seems thin to me, but that "felt" like the existing stuff that Suzuki used from the factory. I could have gone thicker, but the minimum size roll of that was like 500 square feet and a lot more money.

Old rope chalking removed, cleaned, and prepped for new chalking:



This is what I used for rope chalking. Home Depot carries it, but not one of the boys in orange aprons could locate it on the shelf for me. Eventually I found it, in a box on the floor, homeless and no shelf location nearby:



New chalking and vapor barriers installed:





Once those were installed, I removed the headliner backer boards again. This time, to actually glue on the headliner material. I had my wife give me a hand with this, because even though the panels are small, it is a two person job. I've tackled headliners before and have always had good luck with 3M Super Trim Adhesive. A simple procedure, you just spray both surfaces, wait about a minute, then join them together. I did one half of each panel at a time, folding the headliner material over itself as the other portion is being sprayed. I let it dry overnight and will wrap the edges hopefully later on tonight. Once the glue from the wrapping is dry, I'll install it and pray that it fits and doesn't tear going in (that's what she said).

3M Super Trim Adhesive:



Spraying the adhesive using the fold over process:



The first panel all adhered:



Letting them dry overnight:

 

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Headliner is going to look great.

I've got a role of the butyl tape for the same jobs. I've had it at least 10 years, still pliable and sticky.
 
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