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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Factory Battery Specifications

Dual-battery Phaetons, except V10 TDI:
This is the most common configuration by far. All Phaetons in North America are equipped this way from the factory. The factory starter battery may be labeled "1J0 915 105 AD" or similar. It has been superseded with the part number below. The new battery should have identical specifications.

PositionRoleVW Part NumberTypeSpecifications
LeftVehicle Power Supply000 915 105 CEAGM12V 92Ah 520A DIN/860A SAE
RightStarting000 915 105 DESLA12V 61Ah 330A DIN/540A SAE

Dual-battery Phaetons with V10 TDI engine, or DIY retrofit upgrade:
The V10 TDI requires more starting power, and is factory-equipped with the larger AGM battery in both positions. Any other dual-battery Phaeton can easily be upgraded with the larger battery on the right. Several owners have chosen to do just that, for extra starting power in winter and better longevity.

PositionRoleVW Part NumberTypeSpecifications
LeftVehicle Power Supply000 915 105 CEAGM12V 92Ah 520A DIN/860A SAE
RightStarting000 915 105 CEAGM12V 92Ah 520A DIN/860A SAE

Single-battery Phaetons:
This was an option for lower-spec cars in the original Phaeton design. However, it is incredibly rare if it was ever produced at all.

PositionRoleVW Part NumberTypeSpecifications
LeftVPS and Starting000 915 105 CEAGM12V 92Ah 520A DIN/860A SAE
RightNot InstalledN/AN/AN/A

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Important Information - Read This First (Text Adapted from the VW Service and Repair Manuals)

The battery, in the right side of the trunk, is equipped with a battery cut-off to increase crash safety. In the event of a collision, the airbag control module triggers a separation, which disrupts the power supply wiring to the starter. The battery cut-off takes place pyrotechnically through a very small explosive charge. To prevent inadvertently triggering separation while working on the battery or batteries, or the battery cut-off, always perform the work procedure as described in the repair manual.​

Disconnecting Sequence
Caution: If the sequence is not followed, the pyrotechnic battery isolation system switch may trigger, which may damage electrical components in the vehicle.

1. Disconnect the battery in the right side of the luggage compartment (negative first).
2. Disconnect the second battery in the left side of the luggage compartment (negative first).​

Reconnecting Sequence
Caution: If the sequence is not followed, the pyrotechnic battery isolation system switch may trigger, which may damage electrical components in the vehicle.

1. Connect battery in left side of luggage compartment (negative last).
2. Connect battery in right side of luggage compartment (negative last).​

Battery Tightening Specifications
Battery terminal clamp on battery post, M6 9 Nm
Additional terminal on battery terminal clamp, M6 9 Nm
Retaining clip on body, M8x95 15 Nm
Carrier plate for E-box to body, M6 6 Nm
Wiring terminals to battery isolator, M8 20 Nm
Battery cut-off relay to holder, M6 6 Nm
Threaded connection for battery cut-off, M8 20 Nm
Battery monitoring control module to holder, M6 6 Nm​

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Resets and Calibrations After VPS Battery Replacement

You will NOT need to do this if you're only replacing the starter battery, only the VPS battery. If your VPS battery has been disconnected or discharged, your car may emit some ABS and suspension warnings and some convenience features might not work. Don't panic. This is normal. Follow the procedure below and it will take care of the warnings.


  1. Start the car and allow it to idle
  2. Recalibrate power window one-touch up and down (repeat for all four windows)
    • Hold down the button to fully open the window
    • Hold up the button to fully close the window
  3. Recalibrate sunroof pinch points
    • Fully open the sunroof
    • Fully close the sunroof
  4. Recalibrate power seat soft-stop/memory (repeat for all power seats)
    • Use the seat forward/back button to move the seat all the way forward until it stops, and release
    • Press the button briefly forward again to make sure the seat is all the way forward
    • Use the seat forward/back button to move the seat all the way backward until it stops, and release
    • Press the button briefly back again to make sure the seat is all the way back
  5. Recalibrate electronic steering column adjustment
    • Operate the steering column adjustment switch to move the steering column through all four axes of motion until it stops - all the way up, down, forward and back.
  6. Recalibrate steering angle sensor (fixes ABS and air suspension warnings)
    • Drive ahead in a straight line for at least 15 meters. This will allow the steering angle sensor to re-learn the wheel position and bring it back online. Both faults should clear right away.


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Starter (Right) Battery Replacement / Upgrade

Before actually installing the new battery, make sure it's fully charged. It will have been sitting on a shelf for a while and will have self-discharged somewhat. Your car's electrical system is not designed to fully charge a battery, and will not do so for almost any model car out there. For technical reasons, the Phaeton actually does a good job of charging the start battery, but like most other cars, not nearly as well for the VPS battery. That said, even for the start battery there's no reason to strain the alternator.



Remove the storage compartment on the right side of the trunk. No tools are needed, it will just pop out. You might be able to pop it out by hand, or you might need to use a trim tool. The original battery will look like this, a Varta-branded battery with a VW part number. If this isn't what you see, your battery isn't factory original or dealer installed.



Even if you don't have your car's full maintenance history, you can still find out how old your batteries are. Check the negative battery terminal and you'll see a pair of numbers stamped into the top - the week and year of manufacture.



Below is a good view of the battery isolation unit on the start battery positive terminal. It's a one-shot pyrotechnic device, like an airbag or emergency seat-belt tensioner. It severs the positive battery cable from the battery in the event of a collision.

This isn't to keep the car from (re)starting. If the car were in start-able condition, the paralleling relay would probably allow starting from the VPS battery. It's about protecting passengers and emergency-response personnel from a dangerous short-circuit and/or fire. The positive battery cable is thick as your thumb, and it runs all the way to the engine compartment, along the right edge of the floor. There's no fuses or circuit breakers in this cable. If the cable is compromised and it shorts to the car's frame, bad things happen. If the collision doesn't do it, emergency responders might cut into it when forcing the doors open. The start battery is rated for several hundred cold-cranking amps; the instant short-circuit amperage will be quite a lot more.



Disconnect the negative terminal first, and then the positive terminal. You'll also need to disconnect the vent tube.



There's a small bar on the right side of the battery, hooked down to the battery carrier on one side and held down with a bolt on the other. Remove the bolt, and the hold-down bar can be moved aside. This will free up the battery to be removed. You'll need to tilt it over to pull it out. The battery is sealed, in theory, but it contains water and you should not keep it tilted any longer than necessary.



A good view with the battery removed. In this view, the nuts have been removed from the hold-down adapter but the adapter is still sitting there. You don't need to remove the nuts, or the adapter, if you're replacing the factory battery with a like battery.

In my case, I chose to upgrade to the larger AGM battery, the same one used for the VPS battery and the same one used for the V10 TDI start battery. With the hold-down adapter removed, the battery carrier is identical to the left side and fits the AGM just fine. After you remove the hold-down adapter, reinstall those two nuts on the battery carrier.



The new AGM battery I'm using. Again, the regular process is to use the Varta SLA battery and it's perfectly normal to use that. The battery will be sold with plastic covers over the terminals, for safety. I would leave those on until the battery is installed, to avoid any accidental shorts.



The battery will have vent holes on both sides. The car will only have a vent hose on one side. You plug the side without the hose using the supplied plug.



The new battery, installed and ready. Connect the positive terminal first, then the negative. To fully seat the connections, you may need to tap them down slightly with a mallet or small hammer. Tighten to spec. If you are replacing both batteries at the same time, wait until you're done with the VPS battery before reconnecting the start battery.



No code-clearing or adaptation is needed after disconnecting just the start battery.

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Vehicle Power Supply (Left) Battery Replacement

Below is the VPS battery, below the relay carrier on the left side of the trunk.



The AGM battery and its part number. It's important to use this exact battery. I think some older Phaetons might have the same type and size of AGM battery with a slightly lower rating, but if you order a new battery today, the one you get will have the higher rating.

Just like the new start battery process above, you should fully charge your new battery before installing it. This is especially critical for the VPS battery, as the vehicle electrical system will not fully charge it.



A view of the negative terminal, similar to the starter battery. Same date information, etc.



The TPMS controller can be detached from the bottom of the relay carrier and set aside, to make the rest of the process easier.



The relay carrier needs to be removed and set aside. There's a release clip that needs to be pressed in on both the left and right sides, and then the relay carrier can be slid up slightly and removed.





Skipping ahead slightly, this is the panel the relay carrier is secured to. This gives a clear view of the release clips R1 and R2, and the slots for the relay carrier pegs 1, 2 and 3.



The relay carrier, once detached, can be pulled out of the battery compartment.



The wiring bundle can be taken out of the wire-management clips on top of the relay carrier, to give you more flexibility in moving it aside. You won't be removing the wiring itself, but you'll have enough slack to get the relay carrier out of the way.



The relay carrier mounting panel needs to be removed. It clips on at the bottom as shown. Then, it needs to pivot up about 45 degrees to unhook it from the top.



A view of things with the mounting panel removed, and the battery disconnected. As a reminder, remove the negative terminal first and the positive terminal last. As a further reminder, disconnect the starter battery before the VPS battery.

Because the battery cables are very stiff, you may have to loosen the battery paralleling relay and shift it upward to get enough clearance. Remove the nuts N1 and N2. You don't need to remove the entire assembly from the car, just detach it and shift it upward.



Battery hold-down bar on the right side of the battery, same as the starter battery. With this bolt removed, the battery can be removed from the car. The VPS battery will be even heavier than the start battery, so be careful. Fortunately, the AGM type battery won't be very sensitive to tilt.

If you don't want the label scraped up, you might place a towel or something on the battery compartment ledge when you're putting the new battery in.



Various views of the battery compartment with the battery removed.









The battery management controller. Many of you have needed to replace this component.



Another new battery, yay! The vent hose is on the left, same as the start battery, so be sure to install the vent plug on the right.



After the new battery is installed, reconnect the batteries in sequence - VPS battery, then start battery.

When you start the car after replacing the VPS battery, you'll get some complaints from from the stability control and level control systems. Don't Panic. Both will clear after a short drive. You'll need to re-adapt the window automatic close function, which you can do just by fully opening and closing the windows once. You'll need to do the same for the sunroof, and the same for the power-open trunk if you have that option.
 

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Fantastic write up. thanks. If anyof you have Acrobat, I recommend you convert this thread to a PDF and archive it. I've already done it!!

Regards
Mike
 

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non agm big one : OEM on an early 2004 v8?

I changed my battery yesterday. I noticed the old one was just a simple lead acid battery (the big one) not an agm like it should be. But it also appeared to be a real oem vw battery (from johnson controls). Has anybody seen this?


-Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I changed my battery yesterday. I noticed the old one was just a simple lead acid battery (the big one) not an agm like it should be. But it also appeared to be a real oem vw battery (from johnson controls). Has anybody seen this?


-Paul
Odd. I assume you're talking about the VPS (left) battery. Did you happen to take a picture of the old one?

I can't think of why someone would pay a VW dealer, or VW parts counter prices for a battery and then get the wrong one.
 

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Hi all--I picked up my new left-side battery this afternoon and hope to install this evening. (2005 V8) I'm confused about one thing: is it necessary to disconnect the right-side battery if you're only replacing the left side? I seem to recall seeing somewhere here that it was NOT necessary--because that's how you can do it without wiping your settings—and when I mentioned to the local Phaeton tech that I wanted to do it myself, he didn't mention that step. Yet this pyrotechnic thing has me worried, of course.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Eric
 

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Hi Eric,

I suggest you adhere to the recommended procedure, especially where pyrotechnics are involved! When I had them both disconnected last, only the interior lights needed an on-off, and one seat needed cycling from end to end.

Chris


 

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I did it! Without blowing my head off. Yay me!

The previously installed battery (2009) was considerably smaller. I tried uploading a photo comparison but don't have time to sort out this system. At any rate, it was clearly a substandard substitution. Glad I've got the right piece in there now--and I'm sure my little car-passes-out if left alone for a few days thing is behind me.

Thanks for the photos and advice, all.

EA
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did it! Without blowing my head off. Yay me!

The previously installed battery (2009) was considerably smaller. I tried uploading a photo comparison but don't have time to sort out this system. At any rate, it was clearly a substandard substitution. Glad I've got the right piece in there now--and I'm sure my little car-passes-out if left alone for a few days thing is behind me.

Thanks for the photos and advice, all.

EA
I'm glad you survived the process. :)

For benefit of other readers, yes, you should disconnect the start battery before the VPS battery as the factory manuals say. I've disconnected the VPS battery alone in the past, before I read up on the right procedure. The car was clearly trying to do stuff in response. There will be some arcing as you move the battery connection lugs around, and I could hear the paralleling relay switching the start battery in and out in response. The airbag controller (which owns the start battery separation pyro) would be seeing some crazy voltage fluctuations, which can't be a good thing. And, add the possibility of VPS dead-short or reverse-polarity accident while parts of the car are "awake" on the starter battery... one could easily imagine a Poor Outcome.

Jason
 

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I'm glad you survived the process. :)

For benefit of other readers, yes, you should disconnect the start battery before the VPS battery as the factory manuals say. I've disconnected the VPS battery alone in the past, before I read up on the right procedure. The car was clearly trying to do stuff in response. There will be some arcing as you move the battery connection lugs around, and I could hear the paralleling relay switching the start battery in and out in response. The airbag controller (which owns the start battery separation pyro) would be seeing some crazy voltage fluctuations, which can't be a good thing. And, add the possibility of VPS dead-short or reverse-polarity accident while parts of the car are "awake" on the starter battery... one could easily imagine a Poor Outcome.

Jason
Jason:

Thanks for the detailed post. I just wish I had remembered it when I recently replaced my VPS battery. In this process I escaped one of those "poor outcomes" recently when doing this. I was removing my VPS battery, without first disconnecting the starter battery, and had a momentary short. This was due to all the twisting and turning of the battery to get it out of the hole. Scared me to death, but all seems to be OK.

Michael(Paneuropean) has always strongly recommended to replace batteries with OEM Vartas. I've always felt that all 12 volt batteries have 6 cells that have 2.1 volts per cell when fully charged for 12.6 volts. So if battery capacity is up to Phaeton requirements any "good" battery will work. Of course if AGM is required, replace with AGM of equal or superior capacity. What had impressed me most about Varta batteries was their consistent long lives. There are many stories of 7 or 8 year old Varta AGM batteries still in Phaetons. My original Varta lasted almost 6 years. Nevertheless a little over 3 years ago, I replaced my AGM Varta with a direct replacement Deka. Recently my Deka was becoming suspect and didn't seem to want to hold a charge so I decided to replace it. Decision time again. Despite believing Michael's advise is very good, I cheaped out and bought a Sear's Diehard AGM. The VW dealer quoted me $225 for their battery, which was sourced through Interstate, and the Sears AGM Series 49 direct replacement battery was $134.99 on sale. The AGM Diehard is regularly $179.99. Nevertheless, looking back Michael would have been right. My Deka experience has surely been more expensive than just biting the bullet and buying the Varta 3 years ago. That doesn't even include the fact that I had to "prematurely" replace the Deka. Anyone that has done the VPS battery replacement knows that you don't want to do this very often.

Jim X
 

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A query was raised in another thread about the amount of force required to remove the trim panel covering the right battery compartment (VW call it the 'second' battery, Bentley Motors call it the Starter battery).

This is the appropriate place to post re-assurance that you only have to overcome the pressure of the clips, as shown in the diagram below. It is unlikely that any clips or trim will break.

Chris


Right battery trim cover removal

image (c) volkswagen
 

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A query was raised in another thread about the amount of force required to remove the trim panel covering the right battery compartment (VW call it the 'second' battery, Bentley Motors call it the Starter battery).

This is the appropriate place to post re-assurance that you only have to overcome the pressure of the clips, as shown in the diagram below. It is unlikely that any clips or trim will break.

Chris


Right battery trim cover removal

image (c) volkswagen
Chris - we seem to have lost a number of your pictures from your posts... do we need a whip round to pay your picture hosting charges??
 

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Hi Mike,

My hosting company's automated systems archived my data unexpectedly, however they are 'doing their best' to restore it. Each email from them triggers a 72-hour delay as this is escalated through the ranks to the next level. I am hopeful that we are now nearing the top of the food chain. :)

Chris
 

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Hi Jason:

Just a note to say "Thank you very much" for letting us all know that a 'large size' battery (same as the left side battery) will fit in the right hand (starter battery) position of the North American cars if the adapter plate is removed.

My car was a bit sluggish starting tonight (I left it parked outside in cold weather), and when I got home, I thought it would be a good idea to charge up the right side battery. I had a close look, and was very surprised to see that I still had the original battery - dating from week 34 of 2003 - present in the right side of my car. I thought I replaced that thing a long time ago... guess not. Anyway, I ordered a new large size (left size size) battery from my VW dealer today. When it comes in, I'll put the new battery on the left side of the car, because that's the battery that gets used the most, and I will move the existing left side battery (which is only 3 years old) over to the right side position.

Thanks again for the excellent info in your original post.

Michael
 

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Do we know if the batteries we buy in NA are the same as the original equipment? I'm curious because my first LH battery lasted at least 6 years and the second one is bad after 4. I'm thinking if I buy a Diehard or Duralast, it's likely to be identical to the VW battery anyway, sans the label. I'm disinclined to shell out the $100 label charge if that's the only difference.
 

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To the best of my knowledge, they are identical to the OEM ones. I just ordered a new left battery yesterday, I will take pictures of it (top and side labels) when it arrives and post them here. Hopefully the label will indicate the country of origin.

Michael
 
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